PDA

View Full Version : "Blown"



oledawg
10-28-2010, 04:31 PM
OK, my boat tech is telling me that I have "holed" my 454 which really doesn't surprise me as I am the 3rd owner and lord knows how it was treated before I got it. All the last owner said was that it had less than a 1,000 hours on it ;-)

So, I am now in the decision process on what I need to do to get it running again over the winter. I don't have a "show" boat, just one that I truly enjoy driving, so I am not looking for mega HP....given the way my engine was built it supposedly had something over 400 hp...would run about 68 to 70 gps. New block, etc. and rebuild "might" be the best option unless someone out there has a Big Block ready to go for a reasonable price.

Thoughts?

Pismo
10-28-2010, 04:50 PM
Get a crate marine 502. 400hp out of the box plus a great base to build on if you want.

mrfixxall
10-28-2010, 04:52 PM
dont know how much you want to spend?? heres a start :) i think it may be pricy tho

http://www.offshoreonly.com/forums/swap-shop/241568-2006-mercury-525s-its-xr-sportmaster.html

oledawg
10-28-2010, 06:18 PM
usengines.com offers a long block 454 rated at 420 hp for $2995. Anyone with experience with these folks?

Fluffy Foo-Foo
10-28-2010, 08:59 PM
Purchased my short block shown here:
http://www.cnc-motorsports.com/product.asp?ProdID=25237&CtgID=22977
More expensive, but with new 4340 crank and rods, plus other stuff.

It seems like they have every combo you can imagine.

I am happy with the build I received from them.

A lot of options out there.

Good luck.

mrfixxall
10-28-2010, 09:46 PM
or here is another good source for a short block,,make sure you tell them marine..

http://www.competitionproducts.com/TriStar-502ci-Chev-BB-Short-Block-1025-CR/productinfo/SBSR502MD/

VetteLT193
10-29-2010, 09:14 AM
just a thought, not sure if you are interested, but you can go down to a small block... merc has a 383 Mag @ 350 HP, drop in, turn key, MPI, even comes with exhaust, for under $8k. Performance wise you'd be the same but you would have a 3 year warranty and all new accessories.

by the time you are done buying a long block, paying the mechanic to swap everything over, etc. you may not be far off price wise.

383 on eBay (http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Mercruiser-383-mag-MPI-engine-350hp-Bravo-5-7-6-2-377-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem1c0c6da204QQitemZ12046 7595780QQptZBoatQ5fPartsQ5fAccessoriesQ5fGear)

oledawg
10-29-2010, 09:35 AM
My ole engine had probably at least a 1,000 HARD hours on it before it gave up the ghost, so I am a believer in Big Blocks, you can run the heck out of them for extended periods without worrying too much. The small blocks can give you as much or more HP but not so sure about life spans at WOT. With a 420 HP 454 at $2,995 and probably no more than 20 hours of tech time to swap out the external parts, etc. I should be in a "new" engine for between $5,000 to $6,000 unless I am missing something. That is why I am asking for input on the forum, I am sure that there are folks that have been right where I am :wink:

mrfixxall
10-29-2010, 10:22 AM
used engine?? you dont know what you have.... call eagle engines "new'' only.you can get this one for around 6k swap your parts but you will need a bigger carb and if your fuel pump is not on the seapump then you will need to install a electric one then go boating..

http://www.eagleenginesales.com/index.php/marine-new/view/5026-TX/

or this placehttp://www.michiganmotorz.com/marine-engines-c-31.html

oledawg
10-29-2010, 10:45 AM
I have an Edelbrock intake and an 850 double pumper Holley on it now that should work no matter what engine I come up with I think. My boat guy is trying to put me in a Jasper 420 hp for $7,000 plus labor....seems awfully high to me, but again, I am not the tech :wink:

BUIZILLA
10-29-2010, 10:49 AM
I have an Edelbrock intake and an 850 double pumper Holley on it now that should work no matter what engine I come up with I think. My boat guy is trying to put me in a Jasper 420 hp for $7,000 plus labor....seems awfully high to me, but again, I am not the tech :wink: you can buy a BRAND NEW GM crate 454-425 for just over 5k, thats what I have, it's been ridiculously reliable for 6 1/2 years now

oledawg
10-29-2010, 10:54 AM
Dumb question, but where do you get such a beast and what is included with "crate"? Is it marine? :pimp:

mrfixxall
10-29-2010, 11:00 AM
this guy is asking 9k for the pair,,you could see if he would split them up and they have gil exhaust anf other assories to...

http://www.offshoreonly.com/forums/swap-shop/241589-pair-454-490hp-engines-fresh.html

oledawg
10-29-2010, 11:25 AM
Thanks. These look great....I have sent him a message asking if he will sell them individually.... we shall see :lookaroun:

Fluffy Foo-Foo
10-29-2010, 12:05 PM
Dumb question, but where do you get such a beast and what is included with "crate"? Is it marine? :pimp:

http://www.gmperformanceparts.com
New, not rebuilt. Pretty good deal. Bolt and go.

Check with Harbormaster. He is selling the GM stuff.
http://www.donzi.net/forums/showthread.php?t=55938

VetteLT193
10-29-2010, 12:24 PM
you can buy a BRAND NEW GM crate 454-425 for just over 5k, thats what I have, it's been ridiculously reliable for 6 1/2 years now

I thought "Brand New" and "GM Big block" were no more?

As far as BBC vs SBC I hear you, but I'd take a fully assembled by Mercruiser SBC over a random BBC reman for reliability sake. My brother was in the same situation as you are now. Over 1000 hours on a stock 330 HP big block in his 22. went to a reman 425 HP engine... blew it in a few months. another, blew that in 2 years. Another, blew it in about a year.

I know some guys get reliability out of reman engines, but in my opinion they never are as good as new.

mrfixxall
10-29-2010, 01:00 PM
Thanks. These look great....I have sent him a message asking if he will sell them individually.... we shall see :lookaroun:

just remember to replace your oil cooler,if the engine granaded and if the cooler got metal shavings in it you cant use it because you cant get the metal out of it..

mrfixxall
10-29-2010, 02:24 PM
Thanks. These look great....I have sent him a message asking if he will sell them individually.... we shall see :lookaroun:

here is another ''new " 454 ho

http://chicago.craigslist.org/chc/pts/2029132366.html

BlakeSullivan
10-29-2010, 02:36 PM
I have a 502 Mpi with a couple hundred hours with exhaust and all for 5500

mrfixxall
10-29-2010, 04:18 PM
I have a 502 Mpi with a couple hundred hours with exhaust and all for 5500


you have a salt water boat rite?

oledawg
10-29-2010, 06:37 PM
Fixx > you are gonna love this....my tech was looking closely at my engine now that he is pulling it out....and guess what? The sucker ain't what I was told it was when I bought the boat ( eBay ) ....it is a truck engine, no four bolt main for sure....when it comes out of the boat he is going to see if the valve train is roller or not....the 850 DP carb is not even marine.....man, a sucker ( me! ) is born every minute apparently. Boat would run 68-70 gps but it for sure isn't what it was sold to me as....

I hope that I can get an engine from the guy on Offshore, that really looks good.

mrfixxall
10-29-2010, 08:04 PM
Fixx > you are gonna love this....my tech was looking closely at my engine now that he is pulling it out....and guess what? The sucker ain't what I was told it was when I bought the boat ( eBay ) ....it is a truck engine, no four bolt main for sure....when it comes out of the boat he is going to see if the valve train is roller or not....the 850 DP carb is not even marine.....man, a sucker ( me! ) is born every minute apparently. Boat would run 68-70 gps but it for sure isn't what it was sold to me as....

I hope that I can get an engine from the guy on Offshore, that really looks good.


FYI all of the 454's have truck casted in the side of the block,look by the oil filter where the sending unit is, if theirs 2 1/2'' plugs then its a 4 bolt main..

oledawg
10-29-2010, 08:29 PM
Learned something else new....will pass it on to my tech :wink:

Dr. David Fleming
10-29-2010, 09:53 PM
If I remember the boat show last year Mercruiser is now currently manufacturing the 502 Big Block Chevy because the 496 is no more.

mrfixxall
10-29-2010, 10:25 PM
If I remember the boat show last year Mercruiser is now currently manufacturing the 502 Big Block Chevy because the 496 is no more.

actully it was a place called uniboaring that made all the blocks,their is a new mfr they are using but i cant think of the name:bonk:

obsessed1
10-29-2010, 10:39 PM
I have a 500efi longblock for sale if your interested, oil pan to valve covers, no intake. $2900

MDonziM
10-31-2010, 09:55 AM
My 2c would be to find a good 454 4bolt marine motor either fresh rebuild (from someone reliable) or low hr used. I would not buy a crate motor, they are made for cars not boats. The one in post #18 even says not for marine use. I have seen some crate like longblock builders but they are 5-6k not 3k and I would still be weary of those. The stock 502 mpi is a great motor in a 22 (had one for 4yrs and ran like a top), and rebuilt/refreshed are around for~5k. I bought a magnum this spring with a rebuilt 454 2 bolt, zero hrs from some xyz eng builder, which later grenaded with under 25 hrs of use (maby 5min total @4500rpm).... bottom line is you have to know and trust the source. I have never been in a 22 with a smallblock so I cant say.

Marshall

BUIZILLA
10-31-2010, 10:52 AM
GM has sold literally hundreds of these engines like mine, especially small blocks for marine repowers, haven't heard of a single failure yet. Have you? I stand by my opinion.

MDonziM
11-01-2010, 11:58 AM
GM has sold literally hundreds of these engines like mine, especially small blocks for marine repowers, haven't heard of a single failure yet. Have you? I stand by my opinion.

Buiz,
I'm not dissing a gm motor, and 5,000 to 5,500 makes sence. Ole dawg mentioned some other "crate"eng supplier for a 3k motor and fixx sent a link to a builder which said the motor was not intended for marine use.

Marshall

mrfixxall
11-01-2010, 12:58 PM
Buiz,
I'm not dissing a gm motor, and 5,000 to 5,500 makes sence. Ole dawg mentioned some other "crate"eng supplier for a 3k motor and fixx sent a link to a builder which said the motor was not intended for marine use.

Marshall

i have done several 330 hp sbc crate engines..it said not intended for street use or marine use..i have one in a cust boat with 400 hrs on it and still runs like a top..if you run them at the proper temperature then you wont have any problems,the 454 crate motor i believe has a 5qt oil pan the i would change that for sure..all the sbc i have done i replaced the oil pans with 7 qt ones because the stock ones only had a 4qt plus the filter capacity.

oledawg theirs this one by me also..
http://www.offshoreonly.com/forums/swap-shop/238340-500-efi-longblock-computer.html

oledawg
11-01-2010, 04:46 PM
Fixx > do you know this guy or his motors? It sounds like they have 200 hours of racing on them, but not sure....have asked him for more info

http://www.offshoreonly.com/forums/swap-shop/236089-motors.html

mrfixxall
11-01-2010, 06:00 PM
Fixx > do you know this guy or his motors? It sounds like they have 200 hours of racing on them, but not sure....have asked him for more info

http://www.offshoreonly.com/forums/swap-shop/236089-motors.html


i would think twice,have you seen the boat they are in? looks like it hasnt seen water in yeard + they may be weathered..

http://www.offshoreonly.com/forums/swap-shop/239924-parting-boat.html

ill post pics on that 500 efi as soon as he emails them to me..

mrfixxall
11-01-2010, 06:05 PM
if your looking for something cheep to get you by for a few years i have a rebuilt get 6 454 ill let go.

oledawg
11-02-2010, 07:33 AM
Nope, I am looking for the best bang for my buck, a motor that will run at least where I was ( right at 70 gps ) and last me a long time. Not looking for a quick fix, have all winter to figure it out :wink:

mrfixxall
11-02-2010, 02:41 PM
Nope, I am looking for the best bang for my buck, a motor that will run at least where I was ( right at 70 gps ) and last me a long time. Not looking for a quick fix, have all winter to figure it out :wink:


sent you a pm..

oledawg
11-02-2010, 03:37 PM
Got it, that could be an option. If the first one that you recommended doesn't work out I will give you a call.

Thanks. :kingme:

oledawg
11-03-2010, 10:22 AM
OK, committed to a repower for the old Donzi: :nilly:

"454 aprox. 490HP original 420. Engine is fresh from the machine shop bottom end machined and assembled by Gardener Performance and is .060 over. This engine was actually built the first time with consulting help from Dennis Moore a few years ago and most of his setup is still there all that was changed was the induction and comp ratio. Hydraulic Flat tappet Cam... #'s are .510 lift and 226 deg. intake and 236 deg. exh. @.050 on 112 centerline. Roller rockers and Moroso heavy duty push rods...All forged internals Dimple rods with new SRP forged aluminum pistons. Heads are iron Large rectangel GM's with inconel exhaust valves. As you can see it has alot of nice accessories. KE removable valve covers, new Stainless Marine crossover kit, Gill exhaust, Sea Demon 830, Gill 10-12? Qt oil pan."

Thanks to Fixx for the lead :pimp: Will keep all posted on progress and results.

Pismo
11-03-2010, 10:28 AM
Sounds cool, going to need more prop.

oledawg
11-03-2010, 10:34 AM
Right now in my "inventory" I have a stock 27P Mirage, a labbed 23P of unknown heritage, and an untried labbed 25P Mirage Plus. Surely somewhere in there is something that will work :wink:

mrfixxall
11-03-2010, 10:37 AM
OK, committed to a repower for the old Donzi: :nilly:

"454 aprox. 490HP original 420. Engine is fresh from the machine shop bottom end machined and assembled by Gardener Performance and is .060 over. This engine was actually built the first time with consulting help from Dennis Moore a few years ago and most of his setup is still there all that was changed was the induction and comp ratio. Hydraulic Flat tappet Cam... #'s are .510 lift and 226 deg. intake and 236 deg. exh. @.050 on 112 centerline. Roller rockers and Moroso heavy duty push rods...All forged internals Dimple rods with new SRP forged aluminum pistons. Heads are iron Large rectangel GM's with inconel exhaust valves. As you can see it has alot of nice accessories. KE removable valve covers, new Stainless Marine crossover kit, Gill exhaust, Sea Demon 830, Gill 10-12? Qt oil pan."

Thanks to Fixx for the lead :pimp: Will keep all posted on progress and results.


just make sure your tech runs the engine out of the boat before he puts it in..this was he can check the oil pressure and make sure theirs no leaks..

oledawg
11-06-2010, 01:55 PM
My repower should be in NC by the end of next week and ready to start the project of installation by my tech guys. The seller is throwing in extra's like oil cooler, etc. that my old motor didn't have. With the way this engine is built and the extra hp I should be a happy guy :wink: BTW the seller has another engine just like mine in case anyone needs fresh juice :pimp:

My guys gave me the pieces of the piston that frag'd and holed my old block....think that I will mount them so that I will remember what too much WOT on an old engine will do :wink: "ain't cheap!"

oledawg
11-16-2010, 07:02 AM
Fresh motor arrived last Friday beautifully crated and looks awesome....if it runs as well as it looks then life will indeed be good. Those Gil exhausts are a nice touch, just got to figure out if they will match up "easily" to my Hardin tip locations. If fact everything on that engine is like a work of art compared to my old 454 that is sitting right next to it in the shop awaiting transfer of a few parts. Will keep all posted, and yes, when I get back down there I will get some pictures....:cool!:

MOP
11-16-2010, 09:11 AM
With the flat tappet cam it would be a good idea to run Spectro or an equivalent motorcycle oil, if you PM Chachi He explain the additives that are necessary to keep the cam in good shape that are no longer available in automotive oils. Cheap insurance, flat tappet cams wear has be significantly accelerated with the additives removed by the EPA!!

Phil

oledawg
11-16-2010, 09:22 AM
My guys were talking about that the other day and I don't know what they decided, but was definitely the same subject. One of them has a built 496 in his 68 Camaro that had a cam wear issue. Will follow up. Thanks. :cool!:

MOP
11-16-2010, 09:28 AM
The wear is much accelerated in boats due to the higher RPM's we run, I feel the cam wear adds to engine wear. True the oil filter does catch most derbies but in my eyes not all.

oledawg
11-16-2010, 10:16 AM
Was advised by the builder that I shouldn't exceed 2500 rpm for the 1st 20 hours except for an occasional run up to 4000 rpm for 30 seconds or so. Does that match what you guys would do? :crossfing: This thing holds 10 - 12 quarts of oil, so what should oil change frequency be?

MOP
11-16-2010, 01:28 PM
All you are really breaking in is the rings, you need several hard full throttle pulls to start off with, just like you see on dyno testing. Buz and a few others in the know will tell you the same thing, break the rings in easy and it will be an oil burner. After you get some good pulls in the vary your throttle setting for the first 10 hours, don't sit at one speed for any length of time. By the time you get 20 hours you can wail on it!!!

MOP
11-16-2010, 01:40 PM
With the oil capacity you have I would double the normal change cycle, at 5 change the oil, at 20 do oil and filter. You can go 50 on normal changes I go 20-25 with 6 quart setup, your with the filter will be 11 or 13. Another very important not about flat tappet cams, I myself ruined a new Esky cam many years back breaking in a SB at just above idle.

Read this except:

Installation Procedure


DO NOT "pump-up" hydraulic lifters before use. This can cause the lifters to hold a valve open during engine cranking, resulting in low compression. The low compression will delay engine start-up and is very detrimental to proper camshaft "break-in".
With the supplied moly paste lube, coat the bottom of the lifters, cam lobes and distributor gear.
Set your valve lash or lifter preload. Try to minimize the number of times that you rotate the engine, as this can displace the moly paste from the lobes and lifters.
If possible prime the oiling system. When priming, rotate the engine at least one complete revolution to assure oil gets to all valve train components.
Valve covers should be off to assure that all rockers are oiling.
Preset the ignition timing to start the engine at a fast idle. It is important that the static ignition timing is as close as possible and if the engine has a carburetor, it should be filled with fuel. The engine needs to start quickly without excessive cranking to insure immediate lubrication to the cam lobes.
Start the engine and immediately bring to 2,500 rpm. Timing should be adjusted, as closely as possible, to reduce excessive heat or load during break-in. Get the engine running fairly smoothly and vary the engine speed from 1500-3000 RPM in a slow acceleration/deceleration cycle. During this time, be sure to check for any leaks and check out any unusual noises. If something doesn't sound right, shut the engine off and check out the source of the noise. Upon restart, resume the high idle speed cycling. Continue the varying "break-in" speed for 20 - 30 minutes. This is necessary to provide proper lifter rotation to properly mate each lifter to its lobe. Should the engine need to be shut down for any reason, upon re-start it should be immediately brought back to 3000 rpm and the break-in continued for a total run time of 20 - 30 minutes.


This is important and serious for good cam and engine life!


What ever else you hear is just no knowledge BS!!!!!!!!!!!!



Phil

mrfixxall
11-16-2010, 01:57 PM
With the oil capacity you have I would double the normal change cycle, at 5 change the oil, at 20 do oil and filter. You can go 50 on normal changes I go 20-25 with 6 quart setup, your with the filter will be 11 or 13. Another very important not about flat tappet cams, I myself ruined a new Esky cam many years back breaking in a SB at just above idle.

Read this except:

Installation Procedure


DO NOT "pump-up" hydraulic lifters before use. This can cause the lifters to hold a valve open during engine cranking, resulting in low compression. The low compression will delay engine start-up and is very detrimental to proper camshaft "break-in".
With the supplied moly paste lube, coat the bottom of the lifters, cam lobes and distributor gear.
Set your valve lash or lifter preload. Try to minimize the number of times that you rotate the engine, as this can displace the moly paste from the lobes and lifters.
If possible prime the oiling system. When priming, rotate the engine at least one complete revolution to assure oil gets to all valve train components.
Valve covers should be off to assure that all rockers are oiling.
Preset the ignition timing to start the engine at a fast idle. It is important that the static ignition timing is as close as possible and if the engine has a carburetor, it should be filled with fuel. The engine needs to start quickly without excessive cranking to insure immediate lubrication to the cam lobes.
Start the engine and immediately bring to 2,500 rpm. Timing should be adjusted, as closely as possible, to reduce excessive heat or load during break-in. Get the engine running fairly smoothly and vary the engine speed from 1500-3000 RPM in a slow acceleration/deceleration cycle. During this time, be sure to check for any leaks and check out any unusual noises. If something doesn't sound right, shut the engine off and check out the source of the noise. Upon restart, resume the high idle speed cycling. Continue the varying "break-in" speed for 20 - 30 minutes. This is necessary to provide proper lifter rotation to properly mate each lifter to its lobe. Should the engine need to be shut down for any reason, upon re-start it should be immediately brought back to 3000 rpm and the break-in continued for a total run time of 20 - 30 minutes.


This is important and serious for good cam and engine life!


What ever else you hear is just no knowledge BS!!!!!!!!!!!!



Phil

this a perfect example why i run the engines out of the boat first,,proper brake in,setting all the engine specs and to drop the oil after running the engine for a few hours then i can change the oil and inspect the inside of the oil filter..

olddawg,,those gil manifolds,,make sure they have the turburlators in them and you can remove the wedges for proper aleignment for the tips..http://www.cpperformance.com/c-422-turbulators.aspx

oledawg
11-16-2010, 01:57 PM
Taking all of this advice in and will try to do what is right to make this engine last for a while :angel: Between my four old boats I am personally supporting my boat tech I think :bighug:

oledawg
12-01-2010, 04:20 PM
OK, my guys do not want to use the old Accel distributor on my new engine. What are suggestions on a new performance vacuum advance distributor/ignition? Rough pricing on any suggestions also would be appreciated. Broke the coupler when the engine locked up and the drive was still rotating at a pretty durn high rate :eek: but that is what it is :pimp:

mrfixxall
12-01-2010, 05:04 PM
OK, my guys do not want to use the old Accel distributor on my new engine. What are suggestions on a new performance vacuum advance distributor/ignition? Rough pricing on any suggestions also would be appreciated. Broke the coupler when the engine locked up and the drive was still rotating at a pretty durn high rate :eek: but that is what it is :pimp:


If you dont have the stock merc stuff or if you do just change the coil to a mallory hp one and your good to go..Next choice would be a msd ignition and a mechanical advance(no vacume ports) with the big cap kit..

http://www.msdignition.com/Products/Distributors/Chevrolet/Ready-to-Run/E-Curve/83606_-_Chevy_V8_Marine_Ready_to_Run_Distributor.aspx

http://www.msdignition.com/Products/Towing_/_Marine/Marine/6560_-_MSD_6M-2L_Marine_Certified_Ignition_with_Rev_Limit.aspx

http://www.msdignition.com/Products/Distributors/Accessories/Caps/Rotors/8420_-_Cap-A-Dapt_Kit_for_Chevy_V8.aspx

msd coils suck,,every one i have used gave me problems down the line at some point..
i use mallory coils with over 20 years of good service..
http://www.malloryperformance.com/ProductDetails.aspx?modelNumber=29440&productID=2060&majID=545&minID=5455&selection=4&minselection=4


i have had good luck with taylor wires,you need the 90* ones foryour application..

http://www.taylorvertex.com/Products/index.cgi/proRace8mm

oledawg
12-01-2010, 05:17 PM
What about this one?

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/DUI-M12720BL/

oledawg
12-02-2010, 07:26 AM
Actually what they want to do is put new Merc parts on, likely because they are a Mercruiser dealer, etc. But at $600 for the parts I am not sure that is the best way to go :frown:

oledawg
01-22-2011, 11:49 AM
OK the new engine is now sitting in the C22 after being properly prepped per all of the good advice in this thread. Couldn't use the Gil headers, etc. as they conflicted with some of the parts that needed to go back on from my old engine plus they didn't line up with the existing Hardin tips and they were too tall for the hatch. Should be able to fire it up in the boat next week. Will advise on how it goes. Need some warm weather so I can get it back in the water.

oledawg
01-27-2011, 06:43 PM
Engine now initially broken in and will be "sea trialed" tomorrow. Looks good in the boat and sounds great on the hose. Got the 25P Mirage Plus on so we shall see what happens.

oledawg
08-04-2011, 10:51 AM
OK, update: after breaking the new engine in as recommended, Saturday was cruising up the lake when a pontoon towing a tube was coming straight at me...choices, choices, nail it and get out of the way or slow down...of course I went with the WOT and did get a little airborne at one point, nothing that I haven't done before, but within 30 seconds "blam", motor blown... Techs are pulling it today to see what happened, but had to be oil starvation of some sort. Will be looking for a new block/bottom end I am sure :( so anything thoughts on what I should have done differently or should do differently going forward...a new engine every 6 months is not a good thing.

Ghost
08-04-2011, 11:08 AM
Ugh, I'm sorry, that just sucks.

BUIZILLA
08-04-2011, 11:36 AM
IMO... I would do a VERY thorough failure analysis

there's something not right

oledawg
08-04-2011, 11:43 AM
You got that right...that engine was nicely built per the specs, but who knows...what can I say other than it is a "boat" and you know what that means, "a hole in the water that you throw money into" :bonk:

silverghost
08-04-2011, 12:02 PM
So sorry to hear about this blown engine.
What a heartbreaker.
I would find myself another engine builder/shop.
Things like this should just not happen after only just building a new engine.

CHACHI
08-04-2011, 12:16 PM
So sorry to hear about this blown engine.
What a heartbreaker.
I would find myself another engine builder/shop.
Things like this should just not happen after only just building a new engine.

X2

Ken

oledawg
03-09-2012, 10:05 AM
Engine installed, tested, and in the water :nilly: Looking great and now just have to make it through the 20 hours of break in... My techs did install a rev limiter that they set at 3500 rpm just in case I get too happy with the throttle :) It is a new four bolt Gen 6 short block with forged pistons, etc. put together by Hawaii Racing and then my boat techs took it from there with the rebuild using a lot of the performance parts from my old engine such as cam, roller rockers, HD Moroso push rods, inconel valves, aluminum manifold w. Sea Demon 830 carb, etc. Added an electric fuel pump, Moroso 8 quart oil pan and racing oil pump. Starts and runs great so far, and the cost installed was less than a crate marine 330 hp engine. No dyno, but best guess is somewhat over 500 hp for this setup. Plenty for my needs. :cool!: