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View Full Version : what is best gear oil to use on old eaton drive?



BobinCovington
08-13-2010, 11:01 AM
I have my old Eaton series sixteen outdrive on my 1966 16 Ski Sporter and yes it still runs fine. The manual calls out for "a first grade, heavy duty gear oil, SAE 90 weight, containing Sulphur-Chlorine-Lead additive - or Eaton p/n L-100"

Anyone have some idea of what to use these days? I don't mind paying for whatever is the best.

BobinCovington
08-13-2010, 04:23 PM
Still in process of doing some looking and Amsoil, Redline and Torco all have Gear Oils they recommend, but they don't specifically know compatibility for the Eaton unit. I was reading that the cone-clutch may need specific properties, but I have the clutch dog? in the eaton. So I am still making phone calls and inquiries on this one...

mrfixxall
08-13-2010, 07:49 PM
From what i hear the redlind shock proof is the best on the market..

MOP
08-13-2010, 08:50 PM
I serviced some Eatons years back, one of the most important add-ons is a shower. The uppers get very hot due to inadequate oil circulation, keep them cool they will run a long time.

Tony
08-13-2010, 10:47 PM
I serviced some Eatons years back, one of the most important add-ons is a shower. The uppers get very hot due to inadequate oil circulation, keep them cool they will run a long time.

2010 - 1966 = a long time!

:eek:

BobinCovington
08-13-2010, 11:23 PM
LOL...that's what I was going to say. It has been going a long time for that drive to keep running, but maybe a shower would have extended it to a really long time.

I am considering the redline along with Torco and Amsoil, but just want to know for sure what is proven to be okay to use.

CHACHI
08-15-2010, 06:31 AM
Any of them would work fine.

Use a 75w-90 full synthetic.

Make sure they have a GL-5 rating which I am sure they all do.

Ken

LKSD
08-16-2010, 09:47 PM
I agree with Ken.. The Company he works for also makes a very good oil ( Spectro ) I have used it in the past & still use it for some applications. It works & holds up very well. We also use some other oils for different applications. I believe that Ken could probably get you what you need if you contact him, He is a nice guy too.. ;) Jamie / Lakeside

BobinCovington
08-16-2010, 10:57 PM
Thanks Jamie (and Ken),
Appreciate the guidance, this has been a confusing one

BobinCovington
08-17-2010, 12:35 AM
Just so I am clear...

the GL-5 is the right one for my drive, but does my drive have spiral bevel and hypoid gears? Here is what I found on Wikipedia for the difference between GL-4 and GL-5 oils ...

GL-4 and GL-5 are standards set by the American Petroleum Institute for gear oils. GL-4 are intended for axles with spiral bevel and hypoid gears operating under moderate to severe conditions of speeds and loads. They are also suitable for sychronized manual transmissions when MT-1 gear oils are NOT recommended. GL-4 should be used in limited-slip differentials. The GL-4 generally indicates "Limited Slip" properties in the gear oil; sometimes abbreviated as LS.
GL-5 is indicated for high-speed/shock loads and low-speed/high-torque conditions. GL-5 also has multi-purpose or mild EP (extreme) properties too. GL-5 is often seen with the MT-1 designation too.
MT-1 indicates lubricants intended for NON-sychronized manual transmissions. MT-1 indicates the additional additives necessary to protect against thermal degradation, component wear and oil-seal deterioration which are not requirements by GL-4 or GL-5 approval.
GL-5 is not the latest and greatest improvement over GL-4; unlike oil classifications where higher classification numbers mean tougher standards and backward compatiblity. It is important to know what type of gears you are lubricating, their applications and follow the manufacturer's recommendations! More information can be found at www.api.org.

LKSD
08-17-2010, 07:40 AM
I think what Ken meant was that the GL5 rating regardless of how your gears are cut is much better that the oil that was used in your drive when it was new. The GL5 rating meets & exceeds just about every outdrive requirement out there for the most part. At least for volvo units, dana, eaton and merc bravo & alpha units to date.. ;) Jamie

CHACHI
08-17-2010, 07:45 AM
I think what Ken meant was that the GL5 rating regardless of how your gears are cut is much better that the oil that was used in your drive when it was new. The GL5 rating meets & exceeds just about every outdrive requirement out there for the most part. At least for volvo units, dana, eaton and merc bravo & alpha units to date.. ;) Jamie
Correct.

Ken

BobinCovington
08-17-2010, 10:04 AM
Thanks, and yes I know you are both correct and I am feeling much more confident about just buying some GL-5. My biggest concerns were whether there was any issue with "over slipperiness" as it would affect a cone type clutch by not allowing the friction it needed to engage (even though I have a clutch dog) and whether the designation of "hypoid" was a big deal or necessary for my application.

So right now my choices that I feel good about are:

Spectro 75W90?
Redline 75W90 GL-5
Amsoil 80W90 Marine Gear Lube AGM
Torco ?

BobinCovington
08-17-2010, 04:01 PM
Thanks for all the help and input you guys. Between this site and BITOG I have received some helpful advice from people who know a lot more than I do about the "oil" subject. I have made my short lists for Sterndrive gear oil, grease for trailer wheels and outdrive yoke and also for the engine oil to use.

My stern drive gear oil choices are...
* Redline Heavy Shock Proof 75W90 (GL-5) (Leaning towards this one)
* Redline Gear Oil 75W90 (GL-5+)
* Amsoil Marine Gear Lube (AGM) 75W/80W-90

choices for waterproof grease for the trailer wheels and outdrive yoke are..
* Redline CV-2 Grease
* Amsoil Synthetic Water Resistant Lithium Complex Grease (GWR)

Final Choice for Motor Oil is:
* Torco SR-1 5W30


Any comments or last minute "no, not that one you fool!" advice?

I'm pretty sure whichever I choose from the list I should be better than what I am running now. Thanks again everyone for answering my endless questions

LKSD
08-17-2010, 04:43 PM
Thanks for all the help and input you guys. Between this site and BITOG I have received some helpful advice from people who know a lot more than I do about the "oil" subject. I have made my short lists for Sterndrive gear oil, grease for trailer wheels and outdrive yoke and also for the engine oil to use.

My stern drive gear oil choices are...
* Redline Heavy Shock Proof 75W90 (GL-5) (Leaning towards this one)
* Redline Gear Oil 75W90 (GL-5+)
* Amsoil Marine Gear Lube (AGM) 75W/80W-90

choices for waterproof grease for the trailer wheels and outdrive yoke are..
* Redline CV-2 Grease
* Amsoil Synthetic Water Resistant Lithium Complex Grease (GWR)

Final Choice for Motor Oil is:
* Torco SR-1 5W20


Any comments or last minute "no, not that one you fool!" advice?

I'm pretty sure whichever I choose from the list I should be better than what I am running now. Thanks again everyone for answering my endless questions

I would be hesitant to run anything less than a 30 wt oil in a marine engine.. ;)

BobinCovington
08-17-2010, 04:57 PM
oops Thanks Jamie, I meant 5W30

post corrected (and now re corrected...it should read 20W50 SR-1 Racing Oil)

Forrest
08-17-2010, 05:03 PM
The only thing that I may be concerend with on that old Eaton drive is that it has old seals that may or may not be compatable with modern-day synthetics. But, that being said, I used to run Redline MT-90 which is GL-4 rated, rather than the recommended SAE 30 motor oil, in my Volvo 280s on my Magnum 27 with no problems.

As for motor oil, I wouldn't get too hung up on which brand is best. Just make sure you use the correct wight. Something with a little heavier base like 15W-xx or 20W-xx is more like it in a older wide-clearenced mairne engine.

LKSD
08-17-2010, 05:22 PM
oops Thanks Jamie, I meant 5W30

post corrected

Id prefer to see you probably use at least a 10-30 but depending on who rebuilt your engine they may have a specific reason or preference to a weight like that. If so I would use what they had recommended. Otherwise, usually 10-40, 15-40, 20-40 & 20-50 are a bit more common to use in most cases where an engine is a higher output unit or has been worked. The higher weight helps to hold up t thermal viscosity break down a little bit better and IMO the tiny bit of HP that you may gain for using a lighter weight oil is not worth it IMO.. Beyond that everyone sort of has their own preferences as to weight grade and brand favorites.. ;) Jamie

BobinCovington
08-17-2010, 05:37 PM
Thanks for pointing my mistake out Jamie,
At the risk of appearing like a total moron...I called Torco and asked again what weight he recommended and I was totally wrong. It was SR-1 Race Oil 20W50! I don't know why I wrote down the wrong weight (it must have been another conversation on my scratch pad), but thanks for catching that for me. I knew there was a reason I posted before I bought.

LKSD
08-17-2010, 06:03 PM
No problemo.. :) J

BobinCovington
07-05-2011, 10:27 PM
old thread but I have a new question on the outdrive oil...

How easy is it to change the drive oil on mine? From what I can tell, I loosen one of the cap screws at the bottom and drain the old oil out. Then replace the cap screw and fill to the "full" line on the drive fill plug.

Am I close?

BobinCovington
07-06-2011, 06:02 PM
anyone know on this one...?

CaribouLou
07-06-2011, 08:38 PM
I don't think you're going to find much info on *that* drive bob...

MOP
07-06-2011, 09:31 PM
It is like any other drive fill it from the bottom, keep dropping the top stick until it reads then slow down until full. Put the top plug in first then the bottom.

Phil

BobinCovington
07-07-2011, 12:10 AM
Thanks for the info but not sure what you mean by fill from the bottom unless you mean pumping it in...? I am looking at the Eaton drive owners manual and it is too vague about the procedure and only reads as follows...

"to drain oil, place drive in normal operating position, remove propeller and remove lower oil drain screw (below prop). Removing fill plug for venting facilitates draining. Refill with oil specified above"

It seems so simple but I don't want to drain the oil and then screw it up adding the new oil.