View Full Version : deck removal, core, stringer ?

08-05-2010, 12:02 AM
OK, I'm going to tackle it. I figure 2 years. LOL

I know the deck needs to come off. I remove the rub rails, then ??

Stringers. If in good shape I won't touch 'em. I assume I will be doing them, though. What wood should I use? (or Coosa.. not to bring up this argument)

I will start on the piece this week. It cannot be as labor intensive as the drag boat. I will, however change shaft angle on the v-drive and build a new strut. New hardware, gauges, engine, etc.

Once the deck comes off, I will just jump in with both feet.


08-05-2010, 02:40 AM
Assuming you have all the hardware removed and the rubrail, I believe there are some deck to hull woven roving tabs to be cut off inside. We got a bunch of neighbors to help lift off the deck. We also fashioned some support out of 2x4's and a length of allthread so it wouldn't get tweaked and damaged when moved around and stored. I attached a photo of our version of this on my brother's 16'.

Also attached are a couple photos of some hanging beams that allowed full access to the hull, simply hung from the lift eyes. We didn't have to repair the stringers, others are a lot more knowledgeable than me around here about that! Just posting to give you some ideas. I think we thought 2 years too, but you know about that can of worms. I think it took 4! Do some searching on the site, plenty of info on deck removal!

08-05-2010, 08:07 AM
Everytime I've pulled a deck, I used the available overhead structure.



But over the years, I've seen a variety of methods posted here including trees, and engine hoists of a particularly large variety.

08-05-2010, 08:18 AM
Also, I wouldn't assume the stringers are bad. Just wait and see.
I would say, from the accumulated data from this site, that the vast majority are good.
Stringer construction from older Donzi's are generally such that they can be improved. There're generally voids under the stringers, and the layup schedule is a little on the light side. Both of these are easily improved.
As far as inhancements go, have you seen the 16 that Greg Guimond is building? Lots of good info about strakes and pads.


08-05-2010, 08:23 AM
You will address the gas tank, won't you?
The larger 41 gallon tank can be made to fit, and is a big improvement.

And I'd strongly reccomend dollies from these folks;


I've have owned and had access to several sets. They are the best "off the shelf" that I've seen. Look at the "7M" size.

08-05-2010, 01:05 PM
Oh, yes. I will have a tank made. A buddy of mine works with stainless all day long. Should be able to whip out something pretty.
The v-drive mounting area is soft. Maybe it will not be to bad and it is just wollered (SP) holes. I will be making new mounts so, no big deal if just lose holes. Many to plug, then go again. I am keeping my fingers crossed here.
Once the deck is off I wil have more direction and questions probably.

08-05-2010, 02:23 PM
While it would seem that SST would be a great tank material, it's not. It seems the welds are suspect for fracturing and the USCG doesn't allow SST tanks.
Aluminum and polyethelene are the materials of choice.
There're drawings of the 41 gallon tank posted elsewhere...no need to reinvent the wheel whether you want someone local to you make it or not. It's nice not to have to design it.

08-05-2010, 10:56 PM
Hmm. Interesting.
I suspect if welds are cracking, they are poor quality. At any rate, alum. it is.
What is the capacity of the stock tank?? I'm a river boat guy. The stock tank lasts me all day with no issues. It may help resale value if I ever go that route, though.
Thanks for the tip.
I will do a search for the 41 gal. tank.... or a link? What does one premade cost?

08-05-2010, 11:16 PM
It looks like you guys are moving a bulkhead back to install the bigger tank. How much?
Remember I have a v-drive right there.

08-06-2010, 06:48 AM
The 41 gallon tank is 60" long, so just move to the rear the amount of the difference.

08-06-2010, 07:06 AM
Here's where the 41 gallon tank drawing is located;


I haven't priced one in awhile, but I would imagine in the $500.00 range.

08-06-2010, 07:44 AM
check with rootsy he designed a 34 gallon tank with FMT
that fit the original 25 gallon space.

another thing to keep in mind , someone who welds or works in metal can make the tank but they usually don't come with the tank mfg's tag needed by the CG. heaven forbid something happens and the insurance co. finds out. it is also something a good surveyor looks for . we just ran into this with a big dollar restoration had a perfectly good custom tank but had it copied by a certified tank mfg'r.