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View Full Version : Awlgrip, Imron, Interlux? Which is best?



BobinCovington
07-21-2010, 07:51 PM
Looking forward to a new paint for the boat sometime in the future. It is 45 year old gel coat right now so there will be lots of prep, but after that what is best? I have been reading about the 2 part paints not being able to last for extended time in the water. Should the hull be an epoxy or some other paint that can take being at a dock for a week? Or are the Awlgrips and Imrons ok to use?
Anyone have experience to point to the best choice? I'm sure this might be a debate like coke versus pepsi, but I'd like to hear what people have used and how it has held up on the bottom with use.

Cuda
07-21-2010, 08:18 PM
I guess it depends on how you plan to paint it. I've seen big boats that were rolled and tipped that were beautiful, but I think it takes more experience than I have.
I never held a spraygun in my hand when I started painting my 20 foot Formula. You can tell where I got better and better with the paint gun. I used Interlux paint that you can get it at any boating store. It only cost about $25 a quart. Compare that with the $215 I paid for a quart of Merc Hipo Blue which is really a 1980 Buick color. It was also used on some year
Chevies.

seano
07-21-2010, 08:48 PM
There are lots of threads and opinions on this subject already, but I will weigh in.

I did a 16 Superboat center console several years ago. Here is the thread on Offshore Only

http://www.offshoreonly.com/forums/superboat/88325-16-center-console.html

I flipped the hull upside down on the trailer and went to work grinding off years worth of bottom paint and prepped the hull for paint. I ended up using gelcoat for the hull and topsides. I had the boat for 2 years before selling it and I used to leave it in the water with no bottom paint. I'd beach it every month and acid wash and scrub the bottom. Never saw a single blister and the gelcoat held up great! It attracted some barnacles, but I just scraped them off and that was that.

Flash forward to my 16 Donzi and I'm going to do the same thing....gelcoat all the way.

It will never shine like a 2 part paint, but mine sure shined like new, was incredibly durable and held up for 2 years in the water without bottom paint.

gcarter
07-21-2010, 08:54 PM
You have several choices, but epoxy isn't a paint. It's the very best way to seal a hull though. It also very susceptable to UV radiation and requires paint to protect it from sunlight.

Some of the products you mentioned, I think, require professional application.

Greg Guimond
07-21-2010, 10:01 PM
Gel the hull bottom and sides up to the rub rail and paint the deck and coc_pit.

donzi4life
07-21-2010, 10:13 PM
whats the disadvantage gel coating the whole boat?

gcarter
07-21-2010, 10:26 PM
whats the disadvantage gel coating the whole boat?
The labor is almost unbelievable and the cost is probably 4X paint.

hdsadey
07-21-2010, 11:29 PM
Imron is a very good choice! It has a certain amount of flex additve in it from the manufacturer which makes it unbelievably durable. I painted my outdrive with it and as a demonstration to a friend I took a 3/4 end wrench and smacked it pretty hard, it only dented the aluminum never chipped the paint!

BobinCovington
07-21-2010, 11:39 PM
those are some good comments...thanks

I thought about the gel for the bottom and paint for the top idea too.

I would be repainting a very close shade to the original grumble green color so one thought was to touch up the bottom with matching gel for any scratches or dings and then paint from the waterline stripe on up with Awlgrip or equivelent (by a professional).

or the other option might be to bite the bullet and just paint the whole damn thing with Awlgrip or whatever and then only leave it in the water for a day or weekend at the most. Really what kind of Donzi owner would I be if I left it sitting at some dock for weeks or months anyway. I think that kind of paint would be fine for a trailer and resisting wear from the bunks/rollers.

So I guess it brings me to still 3 issues I am "mind-wrestling" with...

a) Which is the best paint, if I do go that route? (I am leaning towards Awlgrip from what I have read.)

B) Use gel to repair existing areas or even apply all new gelcoat or other product that works for the underwater portion of the hull (below the stripe)

3) Should I just paint the whole enchilada and just not worry about it?

IV) and as a side note, should I really be painting over the gel on a 66 donzi that shows some scratches, dings and some dock rash but is still all original and a cool time capsule?

Maybe I worry too much, but still all the feedback from you guys and your experiences on other boats really helps me learn what to do (or what to avoid)

Thanks guys

The Hedgehog
07-22-2010, 06:12 AM
I used PPG on the X-18. The whole thing. If you are considering Gel, I would recommend a conversation with someone like Gcarter who has actually done it. It is a great way to go, but lots of work from what I have seen. If money and time are no object.....it is the way to go. I would not hesitate to paint again.

JimG
07-22-2010, 06:50 AM
Bob, option IV. Do not paint it. Unless there is major repairs to be made on the deck and hullsides, don't do it.

PRESERVE IT, don't restore it. You have an amazing boat. Clean it up, and enjoy it for what it is. I took a Silver at Keels and Wheels this year with mine, and I fully believe it was because it is unrestored. Lots of scratches, dings,etc. I take lots of pride in those blemishes, it means my boat has done it's job over the forty years of it's life: it was used and made people smile!

Grumble Green is a somewhat rare color. I'd preserve it as best you can. The gel on the old Donzi's is VERY thick, and will buff out beautifully. Find someone who knows his way around a buffer, (maybe it's you?), use 3M buffing compund and a good wheel, and let fly! You'll be shocked!

gcarter
07-22-2010, 06:57 AM
Most any high end automotive paint like PPG, BASF, or DuPont will do very well, and will stand up to water immersion for several days at a time w/o bubbling or seperating.
IMHO, I would go w/a two part, single stage high density paint like BASF UNO HD because it's easier to repair than a base coat/clear coat.
But this is just my opinion.

gcarter
07-22-2010, 07:17 AM
I agree w/Jim, if it's possible.
Nothing quite like maintaining a well preserved boat.
When I bought the Minx, I was all over that idea.
What I found was the stripe and sides had all ready been painted.
I sanded the paint off the stripe and found the gel had already been sanded and buffed so many times that the underlying white gel was showing through. The navy blue sides were also in bad shape.
As far as the Minx goes, paint was the obvious choice as there wasn't anything unusual about the boat. I simply did what was best for me under the circumstances. I did re-gel the bottom though.
In the case of the TR, it was one of ten and in pretty bad shape so I bit the bullet and re-gelled. I learned a lot in the process and would think long and hard about doing that again.
I would, however, repair gel in various areas if I had access to a supplier that could match the color closely.

LKSD
07-22-2010, 07:21 AM
Our favorites to use are BASF's products, Awlgrip / Awlcraft and Gelcoat.. We do consider whether the boat will stay in the water or be trailered. Gel for at least the bottom if it will stay in for long periods of time, if not then the paints we use hold up very well & give very nice finishes that in most cases hold up better gloss retention wise than the gel would or could.. ;) Jamie / Lakeside

mattyboy
07-22-2010, 07:37 AM
Bob, option IV. Do not paint it. Unless there is major repairs to be made on the deck and hullsides, don't do it.

PRESERVE IT, don't restore it. You have an amazing boat. Clean it up, and enjoy it for what it is. I took a Silver at Keels and Wheels this year with mine, and I fully believe it was because it is unrestored. Lots of scratches, dings,etc. I take lots of pride in those blemishes, it means my boat has done it's job over the forty years of it's life: it was used and made people smile!

Grumble Green is a somewhat rare color. I'd preserve it as best you can. The gel on the old Donzi's is VERY thick, and will buff out beautifully. Find someone who knows his way around a buffer, (maybe it's you?), use 3M buffing compund and a good wheel, and let fly! You'll be shocked!


I would go this route first, I had a grumble green 16 which was painted over red. i would not take the paint out until I tried to rehab what's on it now. I was tempted on a few occasion to strip the paint and go back green

I have been involved with a few restorations both gel and paint the painted boats have held up well with dark colors both to uv and water damage when exposed to water in small stretches( a few days off the trailer or lift)for over 5 years. the gel boat is still under a year so time will tell.

the painted boats have used awlgrip master craft 2000,immron, and PPG ( not by me someone else actually sprayed them no one would be stoopid enuff to give me a spray gun ;) )
each was the sprayer preference.

on a daily basis I see a '71 black donzi (original) gel and a 72 black cig 20 ( awlgrip master craft 2000) paint 7 years old. they live on lifts side by side. that sight has lead me to the decision if i have a dark color boat it will never be gel :yes:.

but as things happen, I now have new (old)white boat that is paint ???
that I just washed and waxed . I would put a bullet in my head if I had to wet sand then keep buffing every year ;)

I need a 7 foot ladder to get into the damn thing, I could just see the wheel grabbing pulling me off the ladder then having the run away wheel land on me :p

but the 16 ain't that big

LKSD
07-22-2010, 07:45 AM
Matty, I believe you mean Awlcraft 2000, not mastercraft 2000.. ;) It is made by awlgrip & is a little higher end then the awlgrip and is usually only spray applied while the awlgrip can be applied in most cases with or without a sprayer depending on ones comfort level and needs.. :) Jamie

mattyboy
07-22-2010, 07:53 AM
whaddaya want from me it was 7 years ago lot of fumes and beer on that project ;) awlcraft it is

Cuda
07-22-2010, 08:30 AM
The Merc Blue I bought was PPG.

CAPTBEACH
07-22-2010, 09:48 AM
I've painted about a dozen boats now and a sailplane...I can roll and tip and leave a finish you can see your reflection good enough to shave with but spraying is the cats ass as far as distinction of finish goes...it really does the best job...

Interlux Perfection...great paints least expensive of the 2 part polyurethanes, leaves a very hard finish and seems to be holding up well 3 years on the 28 center console now and haven't had a scratch or blemish pop up...paint still beads water no wax...awesome paint, can be roll and tipped but I have a secret method taught to me by a 9 fingered alcoholic boat yard rat...roll and blow...roll a section and using a ladies hair dryer set on low speed and med heat pass the warm air flow over your work...tipping is to flow out the paint and remove the hundreds/thousands of fine bubbles the roller leaves behind...the warm air flows out the paint and bursts ALL of the bubbles leaving a perfect finish...Rolling and Blowing...LOL...

Pros: inexpensive, lots of color choices, easy to use if rolled and tipped(blown) only requires a 95N mask if rolling, requires a respirator if spraying entire system approach primers matched to top coats...

Cons: supposedly not as hard or long lasting as Awlgrip, once applied you have to stay in system, cannot be covered with another product, it has to be stripped down to substrate in most cases and primer in some..

Awlgrip is the gold standard in marine finishes. Sons SeaCraft just finished in Sea Foam with a mirror finish. I had never sprayed Awlgrip so I paid an experienced guy to do it for me ($1015 for his labor, 12-14 hours total)

http://yuengling.voicechatservers.com/SeaCraft2010/20100617-5031.jpg

Awlgrip is granite hard and provides a 10-15 year no maintenance finish...no waxing...if damaged you must color match and repaint an entire section, hull side, transom, deck etc...it is not area repairable...cannot be blended in or feathered...Awlcraft 2000 can be repaired but is not as durable or as hard, its more like Interlux Perfection. Its also like Interlux in that once applied you have to stay in system, cannot be covered with another product, it has to be stripped down to substrate in most cases and primer in some..


Pros: Awesome hard finish, great depth of finish, durable, system as well with matching primers surfacers, fairing and topcoats

Cons: YOU MUST HAVE A respirator to roll, if spraying you must have an air supply as in forced air, self contained apparatus...this stuff is deadly...EXPENSIVE...

PPG I have heard lots of good stuff about PPG on the boat side but never used it on a boat...I did use it on my sailplane...the color palate is second to none and there are clear coats to add additional depth to the finish...I am going to look into PPG for whatever Donzi I end up getting simply because of the color choices it offers over Awlgrip and Interlux...you just cant get the wild colors I'll be looking for, Oranges and Reds...PPG also offers metallics where others don't or are very limited...

Gelcoat is probably the best way to go in a purest sense especially if your trying to match the green...someone mentioned that Donzi GC was very thick...if so I'd probably try to get enough color matched gel coat or repair all the scratches and then wet sand the boat with 600+ wet/dry and up until you brought back the depth/shine your looking for...if the deck is heavily crazed (most are thank you mister sun) then this may not be an option. Or have someone who really knows what they are doing color match a couple of gallons of GC and respray the entire boat with GC and be prepared for lots of finish sanding...

MOST IMPORTANT THING TO REMEMBER IS PREPARATION IS THE MOST IMPORTANT, TIME CONSUMING PART OF THE JOB...WHEN YOU THINK YOUR READY TO PAINT...YOU AINT...WHEN YOU THINK YOU ARE AGAIN YOU PROBABLY AREN'T...AFTER YOU PRIME YOU'LL FIND MORE WORK TO DO...BUY SANDPAPER/BEER BY THE CASE I USED $600 in SANDPAPER ON THE SEACRAFT IN 50 PACKS, BUY A CASE OF EACH GRIT...LOL...PREP, PREP, PREP and MORE PREP WILL GET YOUR THE FINISH YOUR LOOKING FOR ON YOUR CLASSIC...

seano
07-22-2010, 10:18 AM
I would have to agree with Jim and Matty as well. Unless the boat is a basket case, you should attempt to preserve it without painting it. The gelcoat is pretty thick on these boats, so worse case, wet sand, compound and wax.

Keep in mind that this option is not an easy one. Wet sanding takes time, patience and skill. You ahve to know where to stop so you don't go through the gelcoat---particularly on the corners.

Post some pics if you have them...it may help to determing how bad the boat is...

LKSD
07-22-2010, 10:26 AM
whaddaya want from me it was 7 years ago lot of fumes and beer on that project ;) awlcraft it is

Fumes & Beer, sounds like you were having a good time back then... lol :D :D

CAPTBEACH
07-22-2010, 10:37 AM
Unless I end up getting a rare color or model and restore the gelcoat I will almost undoubtedly paint with PPG, Interlux and Awlgrip do not have the colors I am looking for on a classic...I'm looking for a Hot Rod and the color should reflect that....thinking of a deep orange hull and topsides with a cream or off white stripe with contrasting black and goldleaf accent striping along the white stripe, 2 -3 clear coats for depth and an orange and cream striped tuck and roll interior, stainless seamless welded handrail around perimeter of cockpit, nice gauge package, rocking stereo, stainless rub rail and a stroked 351W to 427CI with no windshield ought to do me just fine...sorry on the de-rail...dream mode kicked in

realbold
07-22-2010, 10:40 AM
The bottom on mine has VC epoxy bottom paint. It's a little off white, looks like gel, very tough and can be wet sanded, wheeled. It makes a good barrier against blisters.
Topsides will get some kind of 2 part urethane, not sure what brand yet.

glenncal1
07-22-2010, 10:55 AM
RB-do you know what colors the VC bottom paint comes is. Looking for a yellow or gold. Jim

tmh
07-22-2010, 11:01 AM
Painters seem to become comfortable with a specific type of paint so if you decide on a specific paint you might look for a spray guy that is familiar with that product. If you have a shop that does good work you may want them to use the type of paint they are used to working with. Don't scrimp on the materials and virtually all the top end paint products will work equally well with various tradeoffs.
T.M. Hayes

mattyboy
07-22-2010, 11:16 AM
here's a PPG boat squirted by a guy who knows a little about PPG ;)

BobinCovington
07-22-2010, 11:18 AM
thanks for all those comments...I have posted some pics on my thread (my new old sweet 16...linked in my signature) if anyone wants to see the gel. We did buff it out this summer and it really shined up and put new stickers on, rechromed a few things, etc. We did a repair (on an old repair) and ended up painting the right side to the stripe already trying to match the gel. (I'm not sure what paint was used). It looks really good but since we started on the side already I figured it's not "pristine" anymore.
But it still looks really good as it is which makes it tough to decide to paint the full boat. By the way the hull under the stripe is still gel if I choose to keep it gel under the waterline.
So all this info really helps, but I need to just decide at some point. (indecision may, or may not, be my problem)

realbold
07-22-2010, 06:40 PM
RB-do you know what colors the VC bottom paint comes is. Looking for a yellow or gold. Jim
I believe it only comes in off white. They just call it white, but next to something thats been painted arctic white it is definitely off white.
BTW it is made by Interlux.

The Hedgehog
07-23-2010, 10:00 AM
Unless I end up getting a rare color or model and restore the gelcoat I will almost undoubtedly paint with PPG, Interlux and Awlgrip do not have the colors I am looking for on a classic...I'm looking for a Hot Rod and the color should reflect that....thinking of a deep orange hull and topsides with a cream or off white stripe with contrasting black and goldleaf accent striping along the white stripe, 2 -3 clear coats for depth and an orange and cream striped tuck and roll interior, stainless seamless welded handrail around perimeter of cockpit, nice gauge package, rocking stereo, stainless rub rail and a stroked 351W to 427CI with no windshield ought to do me just fine...sorry on the de-rail...dream mode kicked in

Did my X-18 in PPG and am happy.

Did the 27ZX in Awlegrip and was happy. My Chris is done in Awlegrip as well. It was rolled and looks great. I did not know about the roll and blow thought

Both great products. I have learned that it is pretty much like you said. In my case I have gone with the preference of whoever was shooting the paint.

Morgan's Cloud
07-24-2010, 08:35 AM
Some excellent tips from real 'been there ,done that' people.
I won't rehash anything that's been said so far other than I haven't yet experienced any real blistering problems with Awlgrip even when dunked for extended periods.
Secondly , heaven forbid should you ever need a repair after the fact , you might want to factor in 'repairability' .
I can think of a few people who used reg. Awlgrip only to find out later that it's not spot repairable, and the applicator never brought it up at the point of painting/choosing the system. Awlcraft is their repairable product.

We have very limited choices out here compared to what you have available , but if you keep the boat undercover you really can't go wrong with any of your choices so far.

Ralph Savarese
07-26-2010, 08:55 AM
Did anybody concider Stirling thats what I used brush on unbeleveable

BobinCovington
08-13-2010, 06:04 PM
I talked to Scottie who did the repair and he used PPG which looks great but color is a slightly darker shade. I need to find who to talk to about matching that original grumble green color. With that side repair, I think I am going to have it painted this winter.

One question that came up is about the cockpit floor storage hatch "knurled" texture pattern. when you repaint, how do you keep that textured cover looking good?

LKSD
08-13-2010, 08:28 PM
Bob, there are special additives that can be used for creating or keeping textured surfaces in gel coats & or paints..

Also keep in mind that colors can & usually do slightly fade over time.. ;) Jamie / Lakeside

BobinCovington
01-21-2011, 02:11 AM
I have another couple questions (ok several)...

So what is the difference between the single stage PPG and the PPG base coat /clear coat as far as durability and perceived depth of color?

Is one better than the other for boat finishes?

If I end up using either of those choices, will it be any good at resisting blistering when the boat is in the water for a long weekend (maybe 4-5 days max)?

What is the realistic length of time it can be in the water with risking blistering?

Will the trailer bunks wear the finish prematurely?

I appreciate the help from all you guys...hopefully one of these days I may even do something with all this advice :)

gcarter
01-21-2011, 09:13 AM
I can't comment on the PPG products because I've never used them. The truth is, there's a BASF dealer about two miles away!
The choice was obvious!
But here's a picture of the deck stripe of the Minx I painted about six years ago. The last I heard, it's still doing fine. This paint is two part, single stage acrilyc/polyurethane high end automotive product called BASF R-M UNO HD. It's some very tough stuff.

http://www.donzi.net/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=9978&d=1110674186

LKSD
01-21-2011, 01:33 PM
I have another couple questions (ok several)...

So what is the difference between the single stage PPG and the PPG base coat /clear coat as far as durability and perceived depth of color?

Is one better than the other for boat finishes?

If I end up using either of those choices, will it be any good at resisting blistering when the boat is in the water for a long weekend (maybe 4-5 days max)?

What is the realistic length of time it can be in the water with risking blistering?

Will the trailer bunks wear the finish prematurely?

I appreciate the help from all you guys...hopefully one of these days I may even do something with all this advice :)

From top to bottom....

Both single stage & base clear hold up well when using the right products, good prep work and proper application techniques. But those principals apply to all good finishes when you think about it.

Aside from that the base clear finishes allow for a broader color selection, more depth, certain effects if desired and in many cases easier repair if it is ever needed. Also the clear adds some extra uv protection.. The draw back to base clear is it is a little more work and is a little costlier in comparison. Again both are good finishes and depending on what your goal is a single stage may be more than adequate for what you want and or need.

PPG is not bad and I am not bashing it, I personally have used PPG in the past and still use it on occasion.. However I still prefer BASF's products and Awlgrip's products when it comes to paints. There are some others I also use here & there that I like as well, but those are 2 of the more common brands we use. One of the reasons in all honesty I am not as big of a fan of PPG in comparison is I have an easier time dealing with my other distributors and I have had very good results with their products.... Hey some people like coke, others like pepsi.. lol

Blistering is not usually a huge problem when using the proper paints, products and application techniques. However there are other things to consider too that cause blistering like water build up inside the hull, type of water you boat in, any delamination problems with the hull or other structural issues that may play a role. There are also some precautions that can be taken using some epoxies and or barrier coats to help minimize blisters. But regardless of all of that it is a boat and a blister can happen. The longer the boat is in the more susceptible it can be to having a blister occur. Under most circumstances tho, several days or a even a week or so usually does not affect a properly painted boat in most cases.

As far as abrasion resistance, gel is a little longer lasting with regard to the bunks wearing in. But floating on and off of the trailer rather than powering on and off will reduce wear too..

Hope it helps.. :) Jamie / Lakeside Restorations

gcarter
01-21-2011, 04:47 PM
Everything Jamie said.....
One thing I would add about the UNO HD I used in the picture above is that it's easily repairable.

margo
01-25-2011, 10:22 PM
[quote=realbold;572343]I believe it only comes in off white. They just call it white, but next to something thats been painted arctic white it is definitely off white.
BTW it is made by Interlux.[/quote It only comes in white, and drys to a satin finish..Sprayed two bottoms with it, a 16 and a 20 minx...Wet sanded and buffed can,t tell from gellcoat....16 was left in water for four months with no problems...It,s called interlux performance epoxy with teflon...

OFFSHORE GINGER
01-25-2011, 11:44 PM
Bob . i personally prefer PPG's base coat /clear coat because you could be the worst painter in the world and come out looking like a seasoned pro and Bob , i also prefere Awl-Grip ,or Imron , which both paints are very wet and durable , and if you can spray one you can spray the other .

BobinCovington
01-25-2011, 11:58 PM
Leaning toward the PPG. So the PPG concept single stage vs the base coat /clear coat...what is the difference in the look? Is the BC/CC a deeper wet look because of the extra clear coat?

LKSD
01-26-2011, 09:55 AM
Leaning toward the PPG. So the PPG concept single stage vs the base coat /clear coat...what is the difference in the look? Is the BC/CC a deeper wet look because of the extra clear coat?

As I mentioned in my post above. the depth is not always different or more intense, but usually it is a little bit more lustrous and has a bit more depth. Kind of like looking into a fancy resin top bar. It is dependent on color tho and pearls, metallics and flake finishes benefit from this more. In regard to YOUR green if that is what you are getting at the depth and gloss wont be too different if any.. There is/was no metallic of pearl in that color. ;) The blends/repairs are usually just a bit easier to do in B/C if you ever had the need to do them, not tho that ss is not repairable or blendable. :) Jamie / Lakeside

Fishermanjm
01-26-2011, 01:14 PM
jamie,,, do u know anything about the Stiriling product that was mentioned in reply #31???

LKSD
01-26-2011, 07:56 PM
jamie,,, do u know anything about the Stiriling product that was mentioned in reply #31???

( post # 31 )

Did anybody concider Stirling thats what I used brush on unbeleveable

I do know a little bit about it...

Beyond 3 out of 9 of the words being mispelled in that post.. (no worries though Ralph, just teasing you.. ) lol.. :)

The paint if my memory is correct goes by the name of "Sterling" (not stirling) and if the remainder of my memory is correct is a lesser known competitor of Awlgrip that is supposed to be a little less costly.. There is also another one too that is out there as well called Alexseal.

I dont use them as my vendors dont stock the necessary items to use it. I already deal with a number of different quality finishes. So it is not worth me messing with, at least currently.

:) Jamie / Lakeside Restorations

OFFSHORE GINGER
01-26-2011, 08:24 PM
Hey guy , i agree with Jamie on using PPG , B/C - C/C and the reason being is ....yes it is more lustrous and like i stated in a previous post you can be the worst painter in the world and look like a seasoned pro after wet sanding / and , puffing .

maddad
01-26-2011, 08:28 PM
I don't know how I missed Ralphs post, but here's a pic of that "brushed" paint job. You would not think it's brushed, even from right up on it, and it shines.
http://www.donzi.net/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=61170&d=1296091518

OFFSHORE GINGER
01-26-2011, 10:37 PM
Bob ,there is a process called tipping which is a brushed on finish used with Awl-Grip that can ......turn out looking very awsome ..because the paint is self leveling .

The Hedgehog
01-26-2011, 10:48 PM
Bob ,there is a process called tipping which is a brushed on finish used with Awl-Grip that can ......turn out looking very awsome ..because the paint is self leveling .

Don't they have a new paint that does not require tipping?

LKSD
01-27-2011, 08:41 AM
Awlgrip has 2 other paints out. Awlcraft, which must be sprayed & Awlgrip HS (High solids) which also is supposed to be sprayed.. It is the regular old AwlGrip that is the one that can be brushed & tipped on. The other 2 products they dont recommend doing that with.. ;) Jamie / Lakeside

Fishermanjm
01-27-2011, 01:11 PM
nice looking boat

VetteLT193
01-28-2011, 12:58 PM
Don't they have a new paint that does not require tipping?

I don't think so, that I have heard of, but the Interlux "Perfection" brand is Awlgrip pre-set for the end user to be rolled / tipped.

Nothing beats Awlgrip in my opinion. it is harder than Gel. Non porous. Anyone that has blistering problems with it either got a bad spray job or bad prep job. It is in every way better than Gel except for thickness and repair-ability. i.e., if you hit something that takes a gouge out, the awlgrip is obviously gone, but thick gel will still be there and fillable. the kicker is that you'll have less of a chance of having a gouge with awlgrip to begin with because it is harder than Gel.

Awlgrip is designed for 10 years fade free, full sun. If it is taken care of I can't imagine a small Awlgripped boat that is garaged or covered ever needing another spray job.

Tail_Gunner
01-30-2011, 03:05 PM
Here is pic of perfection. That little yellow boat is 30' away and the van is 80-100' out. The paint is amazing it was done with a roll and reroll method..Now to bad i did not take the time to tightenup my tape lines..


http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l284/Tail_Gunner_2006/JAmi016.jpg

OFFSHORE GINGER
01-30-2011, 04:27 PM
Here is pic of perfection. That little yellow boat is 30' away and the van is 80-100' out. The paint is amazing it was done with a roll and reroll method..Now to bad i did not take the time to tightenup my tape lines..


http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l284/Tail_Gunner_2006/JAmi016.jpgHey guy welcome aboard and did i not see these pics on another site ...............and might i say looking good .

OFFSHORE GINGER
01-30-2011, 04:37 PM
Hey guy's , when i worked at S2 Yachts the sales rep for Awlgrip -Awlcraft ..........had a vett he did with Awlgrip using the tipping method , and to tell you the truth the vett looked awsome .