Next Project

[Sweet Cheekz]

With only little details and some dialing in left on the 21 I have started my next project, a 1972 Magnum Sport

Looks like it was originally orange. I thought I would have to regell the whole boat, take off the deck and put in all new stringers and bulkheads but after a week of checking things out that does not apear to be neccessary. Just shaved a few months off the project Sanded down the sides and deck and the gel is nice Needs a bunch of small repairs but overall nice. The bulkheads are in great shape except for the first one which I removed The tanks are coming out to get replaced but other than that I'm off and running
Parnell

[Conquistador_del_mar]

Excellent. I will be looking forward to the progress and pictures. Bill

[Sweet Cheekz]

more to come

[Sweet Cheekz]

1st day

[Conquistador_del_mar]

Parnell,
Mine had the exact same shag carpet in the cabin and it was glued in with yellow/white glue. I paid my son-in-law to get after it with a scaping trowel - ugly and nasty work - :yes:. What year is yours? Mine was originally the light green that was used a fair amount back then. Bill

[mphatc]

Ditto for mine, same carpet, same light, built in 1968 . . .and the same stubborn glue . . . some of it still holding on!

Mario L.

[Sweet Cheekz]

I wish I had someone to take it out of mine I soaked it in Laquer Thinner and chiseled it off Complete pita and I have no skin left on my knuckles I literally have 6 bandaides on my fingers right now.
I will get better pics tomorrow. Mine is a 1972
I loved the interior lighting! Oh yeah and the great stereo system.
I will say I am really impressed with the quality of the glass work on the bulkheads and I am so relieved at the amount of work I have now avoided.
Parnell

[HIGH LIFE]

Parnell, What drives do you have ? The picture of the transom looks like MerCruiser. It's interesting to note how many owners have Donzi's & MAGNUM's. I've got a 16 O/B & 2 MAGNUM SEDAN's. "HIGH LIFE"

[scippy]

Hey P,
Glad to know you got a good head start - always good to be free of any hidden surprises. Today, after crawling in & around the hull, I noticed some of the deck/hull is fiber-glassed in place. Only the small area of the bow and a portion from the cockpit back can you see the 1/2" strip of wood that's visable and bolted ...........anybody else have a partially fiberglassed deck to hull joinery???...to me, it looks factory.
P, I always liked the hugger orange on the old magnums. I'm picturing GM's "Inferno orange" for my sport!

[superhatz]

Cool Parnell!....I'm looking forward to seeing the progress. Scippy...you should start a Magnum thread....or have you??

-Aaron

[CHACHI]

Parnel, just where do you find all this energy, let alone time?

What are you plans for this one?

New cockpit arrangement, dash, etc or is this one going to restoration only?

Ken

[Sweet Cheekz]

Scippy
My deck is only glassed to the bulkheads but whoever did the glass work did a nice job

I am cutting out the transom and redoing the whole thing Its major swiss cheese right now and the only place on the boat I can find the possibility that something is wet. Then I will start over and cut in bravos I am going to redo everything in this boat with some retro and some more modern features similar to my 21. The issue I always run into is that I need to go fast and that requires some newer features and always requires extra hull support making my projects a little more time consuming than they might normally need to be.
Ken My energy comes from loving doing this to last Saturday when my wife and I got our azzes kicked in our 21 in some decent waves I need a bigger twin for lake michigan! I've discovered big waves are more fun when you have a boat that will get on top and rip The 21 is fine till a certain point then its less than comfy.
HL
Seems like donzis are minnie mags anyways

Parnell

[seano]

is this the boat that was on LI? Joe F Jr, I beleive?

[Sweet Cheekz]

Yes it is Nice guy

[scippy]

Cool Parnell!....I'm looking forward to seeing the progress. Scippy...you should start a Magnum thread....or have you??

-Aaron

Yea Aaron, I'd like to get an interesting thread started up, but everything "MAGNUM" is so darn intersting to me. With the likes of Parnell and Bill (who have owned a number of interesting boats) I'm just glad their now presently involved with their Mag sports..........killer boat you got there Aaron.

[Sweet Cheekz]

Tanks are out What a pita Foamed in but not mounted any other way Foam was like a serious glue though. I have come up with a tank idea. I am going to cut out the bottom part of the second bulkhead and make bigger tanks that will run all the way to the next bulkhead To help with strength I'm going to build bracing in the floor below the tanks then build bracing above the tanks before glassing in the top piece. Any thoughts?
here are a few updates
Parnell

[Conquistador_del_mar]

Tanks are out What a pita Foamed in but not mounted any other way Foam was like a serious glue though. I have come up with a tank idea. I am going to cut out the bottom part of the second bulkhead and make bigger tanks that will run all the way to the next bulkhead To help with strength I'm going to build bracing in the floor below the tanks then build bracing above the tanks before glassing in the top piece. Any thoughts?
here are a few updates
Parnell

That sure seems like a viable gameplan to me. As long as there is enough strength in the hull bottom to keep it from flexing against the tanks, I don't see why it wouldn't work. How long will the tanks be if you do this? Would you have to sacrifice a little tank depth in order to build the hull up for strength? You will still have most of the strength of the bulkhead for the sides and deck along with some of the bulkhead providing bracing to the hull bottom at the sides - just not down to the bottom of the hull. Be sure to have the baffles welded inside the tanks for the additional support and to keep the gas from sloshing so hard in such large and long tanks. I presume you will be foaming in the tanks for the cushioning effect? Bill

[Sweet Cheekz]

Bill
I'm going to measure it this weekend but I don't think it will be any bigger than the one I just installed in my 21 Donzi. I will have them welded and the tank will be mounted and foamed in. I consulted with my experts today and they want me to make a 2" high cross beam thru all four open areas under the tanks glassed on to the floor then one straight between the bulkheads also. I am also going to brace in the top of the tanks as I did on my last two boats then I'm going to glass in the tops also since a bad tank will require me tearing everything apart anyways. I might as well stiffen the thing up as good as I can. I am also going to add bracing between bulkheads overhead too as I did on my Saber
I think 90-100 per side is what I will get and thats perfect for small blocks to have some nice range. The foam was two inches thick so with bracing and I will go up 1 inch and there's plenty of room for that. One problem down now seating layout, dash layout and depth of the drop out area are the next things to design while I sand away
Parnell

[scippy]

P,
So the bottom portion of the bulkhead will be removed to allow for passage of the new tank to be longer and go further ahead. Will the top portion of the tank (when passing through the bulkhead) have do a sort of "limbo tree" -or- will they be fabricated thinner to pass under straight and uniform? Were there any tags attached to the old tanks?....mine had the orig. Apeco tag w/ the year '76
When you re-construct for all the custom work (fuel tanks and in general) will you be using Marine ply or something like a Coosa board? ...Just wish I could get going!...... 90's tommorrow and the weekend tough to crawl under the deck.

[Sweet Cheekz]

Scippy Mine is inside and its was hot and humid this week so I know what you mean. I have three fans going and yesterday I just couldn't pull myself thru to get the foam out of the other side Today is a new day and I'm on a mission. This is way harder when its 90 then 30 out.
I did look for tags, both my donzis had them but nothing I spent a good while trying to find any numbers under the dash too Big disapoinment there
Any other places I might look?
The tank did not have any tabs welded on it for thru bolting and I am going to do that but it will just slide under and I might have to cut a small hole or two for fills ect I will glass all that back after the installation if need be
Since I now have plenty of capacity I am going to move the tank forward of the first bulkhead 18 inches or so and build a foot well with an angled foot rest. My 28 cigarette did not have this and I was always stubbing my toes in big waves and I could never get a nice low angle on my bolsters to run. 99% of the big boats have this but it will be nice on this one to make that happen I have to cut everything out anyways and start over so it should not add a lot of extra work
Parnell

[seano]

Tanks are out What a pita Foamed in but not mounted any other way Foam was like a serious glue though. I have come up with a tank idea. I am going to cut out the bottom part of the second bulkhead and make bigger tanks that will run all the way to the next bulkhead To help with strength I'm going to build bracing in the floor below the tanks then build bracing above the tanks before glassing in the top piece. Any thoughts?
here are a few updates
Parnell

I would NOT cut that bulkhead in any way shape or form! You will be serriously compromising the structural integrity of the boat.

[Sweet Cheekz]

Hey sean
Do you think I can't make up that strength with bracing in numerous places including above and below the tanks?
Parnell

[MDonziM]

Parnell,
Is there a center stringer between the square opening bulkhead and the next one foward? I have a 42 gal tank from the factory in that space ( about 22-24") With the two 48gal tanks and that one as a reserve I have had plenty of range with 454's. I agree with Sean, I would not cut the bulkhead.

Marshall

[MDonziM]

Also, are you planning on lowering the cockpit floor, sit down or stand up bolsters? If you dont lower the floor I would just add 2 tanks there. The boat is a lot of fun as a stand up though. You could just lower the floor under the front bolsters, maby 2' or so, and still have enough room for 2 decent size tanks aft of that I bet.

[gcarter]

It's amazing how much progress you can make when you're in the "demolishing" part of the process.
Looks like a great project.

[OFFSHORE GINGER]

Parn very good read and i really like everybody's thoughts and ideas but i am confussed and maybe its my fault but...................just why do you have to move the tanks that far foward and the reason being is i have had two 27 sports and to tell you the truth , i feel you could go with bigger tanks and still keep them in an area of the cabin door / cockpit / area bulk head and the second one without comprising any structural integrity . Parn , its been a long time since i have been here or ..........should i say lurking and to tell you the truth it has been to long .

[dammmagnum]

Also, are you planning on lowering the cockpit floor, sit down or stand up bolsters? If you dont lower the floor I would just add 2 tanks there. The boat is a lot of fun as a stand up though. You could just lower the floor under the front bolsters, maby 2' or so, and still have enough room for 2 decent size tanks aft of that I bet.


Marshall,

I had two 18 gal tanks under my cockpit floor on each side of the center stringer, placed back towards the rear seat and against my engine bulkhead and I was able to drop my floor under the bolsters about 7 inches from side stringer to side stringer.

Thank you
Jim

[MDonziM]

Marshall,

I had two 18 gal tanks under my cockpit floor on each side of the center stringer, placed back towards the rear seat and against my engine bulkhead and I was able to drop my floor under the bolsters about 7 inches from side stringer to side stringer.

Thank you
Jim

Hey Jim,
Thats about what I figured on the tanks. The drop down section of the floor on my starfire is about 40-44" long so there is 2' or so that is raised by the back seat. Also with less weight of bravos and small blocks I would think Parnell would be better served with the additional gas weight aft.
Marshall

[dammmagnum]

Hey Jim,
Thats about what I figured on the tanks. The drop down section of the floor on my starfire is about 40-44" long so there is 2' or so that is raised by the back seat. Also with less weight of bravos and small blocks I would think Parnell would be better served with the additional gas weight aft.
Marshall

Marshall,

My drop down sections was about 24-28", so there was a lot of room under the cockpit floor for the two tanks.
I've heard of a Sport with two 50 gal tanks under the floor,, but that seems to be a lot of extra fuel and weight.

Thank you
Jim

[Sweet Cheekz]

Parnell,
Is there a center stringer between the square opening bulkhead and the next one foward? I have a 42 gal tank from the factory in that space ( about 22-24") With the two 48gal tanks and that one as a reserve I have had plenty of range with 454's. I agree with Sean, I would not cut the bulkhead.

Marshall
Hi Marshall
I believe you are referring to the second compartment between the second and third bulkhead. I had to clean foam out of there as I think there was tanks or a tank up there previously but it does have a center stringer running all the way to the bow so I have no way of knowing what kind of tank was there. I do plan on lowering the floor and I had planned on putting two big in floor storage comparments in the other space. I seem to have read that the 27 sports like some weight farther forward to balance out the ride. I have talked to several people who have a great deal of experience and they seem to have come up with a plan to make sure I have all the stregnth I need but I am not set in stone
Artie Any thoughts as to wether or not I could replace the stregnth of the lower half of a stringer cut out for the tank?


MDM and Dm What are you guys using to transfer the fuel into these other tanks I had multiple tanks on my Saber and I had an imco transfer system, fuel pumps and dash switches but I really don't want to screw with all that again. Expensive, more weight and more to break

Thanks for all the input guys
Parnell

[MDonziM]

Parnell,
My mag has all fuel lines (3/ motor) run back to the back seat where there are 4 way valves, off, bow middle, aft. monted 6" up off the floor port and stb. I guess they figured you had weight dist. options this way for different water conditions etc.

Marshall

[Sweet Cheekz]

Marshall
Are the valves manual?
Parnell

[Greg Guimond]

Nice new project Parnell. Looking forward to watching it evolve.

[Sweet Cheekz]

Thanks Greg
Its going to rain all day tomorrow here in Michigan and be 78 degrees Perfect for continuing to cut things out I bought a bunch of new saw blades today for the sawzall and it's time to cut out the bottom of the bulkhead I need to cut, stringers cut down for the lowering of the floor and the stringers going into the transom in preperation for redoing the transom
Parnell

[MDonziM]

Marshall
Are the valves manual?
Parnell

Yes. If I can find a pic, I'll post it. Good luck cutting, look foward to progress pics.

[gcarter]

Parnell, this is a nice project, and I would encourage you to remove the bulkheads, or at least as neccessary.
If you look at pictures of the engine compartments of larger offshore boats, there is usually a longitudinal space of 10'-12' w/o any bulkheads.
Instead, there will be diagonal bracing on the inside of the hull about 2" thick and about 4" wide accross the bottom.
The strength of that bracing is in the skin of the braces, and I would imagine the core is foam. I also would imagine the foam pieces are glued into place and the 'glass layup is applied over them.
I say do what you need to do.

[Sweet Cheekz]

I agree George Thanks
Frankly I think it will be stronger when I'm done. I will leave 80% of the bulkhead and add tons of bracing under the tanks and under the deck . I've now asked three of my sources, I really don't know much about boat building but I know enough to ask people who really do know there chit and they all agree I can make it better than it was while doing my tank idea
Parnell

[scippy]

P, I like your enthusiasm when your involved in a project and glad now it's a mag sport.. I like the advice George gives. Between the both of you guys, there's alot of excellent work and know how.
How much of the center stringer are you removing under cockpit sole?

[Sweet Cheekz]

Scippy Trust me George has forgotten more than I will ever know Same for a lot of other guys on here. I just have really good resources near by to consult with.
Spent yesterday, first mediocre day here all summer, with my sawzall and went to work. The only soft spot I have found in the whole boat was the dash bulkhead for some reason. I think my port tank was leaking very slowly over the years The glass had come seperated, the wood was not in great shape and the foam was wet with fuel. It did not smell bad in the cabin so I think it was small. Also the dash bulkhead was not glassed to the deck like the other ones so out it came then yesterday I found more badness there so I cut out the whole shabang so I can start over. Also cut the transom stringers away for replacing the transom and tieing in new stringers back in All three where in great shape. I got as close to the bottom as I could with the sawzall and now I face that lovely task of grinding away the rest. Also, cut the stringers for my lowered floor Down 7 1/2"s I also cut all the new supports for under there and will glass in when I tackle the grinding. It's supposed to be mid to high 80's this week and high humidity. Not grinding in that!
I also measured for a few hours and figured out how to work my back seat which is going to work out really well. Also my bosters will stick up about two inches above the fairing when I'm done keeping the low profile I want.
I originally wanted storage under the back seat and maybe a built in cooler in the floor but after figuring out the seating situation neither of those is going to work. It leaves me with the nagging feeling I should just put a tank there and forget the big tank idea. Saves me a ton of bracing and configuring and I figure I could still get 75 per side which might be enough with small blocks. Wont get me to Key west but will get me to Chicago. Have not decided but leaning that way for simplicity sake.
Here are a few pics
Parnell

[Sweet Cheekz]

Pics

[scippy]

Scippy Trust me George has forgotten more than I will ever know Same for a lot of other guys on here. I just have really good resources near by to consult with.
Spent yesterday, first mediocre day here all summer, with my sawzall and went to work. The only soft spot I have found in the whole boat was the dash bulkhead for some reason. I think my port tank was leaking very slowly over the years The glass had come seperated, the wood was not in great shape and the foam was wet with fuel. It did not smell bad in the cabin so I think it was small. Also the dash bulkhead was not glassed to the deck like the other ones so out it came then yesterday I found more badness there so I cut out the whole shabang so I can start over. Also cut the transom stringers away for replacing the transom and tieing in new stringers back in All three where in great shape. I got as close to the bottom as I could with the sawzall and now I face that lovely task of grinding away the rest. Also, cut the stringers for my lowered floor Down 7 1/2"s I also cut all the new supports for under there and will glass in when I tackle the grinding. It's supposed to be mid to high 80's this week and high humidity. Not grinding in that!
I also measured for a few hours and figured out how to work my back seat which is going to work out really well. Also my bosters will stick up about two inches above the fairing when I'm done keeping the low profile I want.
I originally wanted storage under the back seat and maybe a built in cooler in the floor but after figuring out the seating situation neither of those is going to work. It leaves me with the nagging feeling I should just put a tank there and forget the big tank idea. Saves me a ton of bracing and configuring and I figure I could still get 75 per side which might be enough with small blocks. Wont get me to Key west but will get me to Chicago. Have not decided but leaning that way for simplicity sake.
Here are a few pics
Parnell

P, I like the agressive measures to the cockpit sole......it appears it's going to be low & uniform thru-out the cockpit area, that's something I'd like as well. P, just a couple of questions?....Will there now be no need for footwells?.........I can't tell, but will the lower floor run back to the reae seat as well.......... Also, from the pics, the outboard stringers are cut down below the corner of the hull sides, will you bring your finished floor up to this corner? -or- sacrifice some area due to it's lower profile?

[gcarter]

I've had good success grinding under stringers w/a 7" grinder, and by laying it flat on the inside of the hull bottom, you can move it right into the stringer, bulkhead, or whatever.....that is until you get into a corner. Goes a LOT faster than a sawsall.

BTW, someone told me you can grind the sawsall tooth set off of one side of a blade and lay it right on the deck....
Anyone ever try that?

[Conquistador_del_mar]

BTW, someone told me you can grind the sawsall tooth set off of one side of a blade and lay it right on the deck....
Anyone ever try that?

George,
I have many times used a long sawsall blade which flexes fairly easily to get right at the bottom of the stringer or whatever else. I keep the blade angled away from the bottom just enough that all it does is scratch the bottom of the other side where I am cutting since it does not want to dig very deep on the flat surface. Your idea of grinding off one side of the blade's teeth might work even better. Anything beats grinding lots of fiberglass and wood - :nilly: Bill

[Sweet Cheekz]

Bill I used the longest blades I could get and did exactly what you said Sometimes it dug in a tab so I would go up a bit but all in all I will have an hour of grinding it clean.
George I agree I have a 7" grinder and it rocks 24 grit and all fiberglass and wood goes bye bye in a hurry Throws a major mess so I need a cooler day to tyvek up with the full mask and let her rip. Its still so early in this project I never have to have any downtime cause there is always something I can do!
Scippy I lowered the entire usable floor 7 1/2's My backseat is premade, identical to my 21 back seat and it has a 9" lip at the bottom. I just cut off what I don't need and thu bolt it to the front of the little bulkhead I will install at the end of the spot where I cut out the stringers. Kinda slick actually. Bought the shells from skater Very comfy and secure when running higher speeds. The floor is going to be glassed in about 12"s or so from the sides and I am going to install a vertical fiberglassed piece running bow to stern to create a storage area about 6-8"s tall for lines ect. This adds a touch of strength as I tie them in on both sides. I did this on both donzi's and it makes for a nice little compartment for an area otherwise unusable.
That whole program is what I spent a few hours saturday measuring to see if it would work. I think I have it
Parnell

[gcarter]

Parnell, I'm not sure I comunicated what I was describing wery well.....
What I meant was a 1/4" thick 7" grinding wheel and you cut through sideways right at the bottom of the stringer. It'll go through the skin like butter. You don't even need to grind the wood at all.

Or, maybe you did understand and I'm just practicing my typing...LOL :wink:

[Sweet Cheekz]

George
I did miss that I have the grinder all I would need is the wheel I am going to buy one today and see how that works on whats left Thanks
Parnell

BTW The 7" sanding disc is a real barn burner when sanding or grinding is done

[Carl C]

Hey, we Northerners are supposed to work on the boats in the winter. This week will be great boating weather. We had an awesome run up the St. Clair River and into Lake Huron last week. The big lake was near dead calm. Check out the pics I put on the banner. We went ashore in Port Sanilac. No dock fee! Get that 21 dialed in and let me know when you are back in the area. It's a beautiful boat. The Magnum will be too undoubtedly.

[Sweet Cheekz]

Thanks Carl
We boated Friday and yesterday. Motor is getting dialed in and I am running a shortie this week. If you get a chance can you put your drive down and give me an approximate measurement as to where the bullet of your drive is relative to the bottom? Maybe a pic Thanks
Parnell

[Sweet Cheekz]

Carl
I saw the pics that looked a little different than our day on Lake St Clair!
Parnell

[Carl C]

Parnell, yes, the conditions can vary drastically but you've got to love it when you luck out and get water like we had that day. I will post the pic and measurements l8r today.

[Carl C]

Here are the pics. The bullet is about 5 3/4" below the bottom.

[Sweet Cheekz]

Carl Thanks I can't see the pics???

[Sweet Cheekz]

Did any of you guys replace your transom on your magnums?
Parnell

[Carl C]

Carl Thanks I can't see the pics???

You can now!!

[Sweet Cheekz]

Thanks Carl

[Sweet Cheekz]

Hey Guys
I got out my center deck insert today and discovered its teak under some really ugly blue paint. Question is, how do I strip off the paint and not harm the teak? Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks
Parnell

[gcarter]

How thick is it (the wood)?

[Sweet Cheekz]

Cant really tell from the side. its vaneer glued to particle board and the whole thing is less than a half inch. I sanded it with 320 then down to 180 and it seemed to work ok Gonna take a long time from what I can see. I always like to see if there is a better faster safer way before proceeding George I bought a few grinding/cutoff wheels today for my grinder and I am going to try your idea about getting rid of the rest of whats left from my stringers the next rainy day
Parnell

[gcarter]

Cant really tell from the side. its vaneer glued to particle board and the whole thing is less than a half inch. I sanded it with 320 then down to 180 and it seemed to work ok Gonna take a long time from what I can see. I always like to see if there is a better faster safer way before proceeding George I bought a few grinding/cutoff wheels today for my grinder and I am going to try your idea about getting rid of the rest of whats left from my stringers the next rainy day
Parnell
Parnell, there're a number of sources for teak strip plywood. I've used it before to replace some sailboat cabin soles.
Easy and inexpensive.

[Sweet Cheekz]

Hey george
I want to keep the teak and strip off the paint Any ideas for that?
Parnell

[gcarter]

Is it stripped, or solid?

Teak grain is so open, I'm not sure what can be done. You don't want to sand a veneer too much for obvious reasons.
Maybe try some paint strippers w/a wire brush, maybe a brass brush. You might be able to get the paint out of the grain.
Good luck.

[scippy]

I'm sure some old wood boat enthusiasts would know! there must have been plenty a teak deck painted over and brought back to luster. Hey, we need a "This old house/boat" section.

[Sweet Cheekz]

Talk about a show with with a low nielson rating! I did place a call into my paint expert who is placing a call into his wood boat restorer specialist so I should have a good feel for what to do tomorrow. Nice to save it if I can We shall see
Parnell

[Sweet Cheekz]

Is it stripped, or solid?

Teak grain is so open, I'm not sure what can be done. You don't want to sand a veneer too much for obvious reasons.
Maybe try some paint strippers w/a wire brush, maybe a brass brush. You might be able to get the paint out of the grain.
Good luck.

I'm at a real loss when it comes to this particular field but it looks like paint over a teak that is sealed I sanded some more tonight and it really looks pretty good in the small area I did. it does not seem to be in the grain as the wood looks sealed with something It apears I'm getting the paint off and not trashing the wood I just see a long time sanding and wondered if something else would work faster. I only have a year and a half to get this ready for Key west 2011 :wink:

[Sweet Cheekz]

Scippy What are you doing about your center piece? I asked you over on osos what are you doing with your windscreen?
Where are some pics man?
Parnell

[superhatz]

Parnell....are you sure it's teak? Most of the inlays were a wood grain laminate...plastic.

I fitted a piece of ribbon mahogany on my boat....:)

-Aaron

[Sweet Cheekz]

Aaron
I am most certainly not for sure of that at all. I did have a friend with me who did sell vaneers years ago and that was his guess. How would I know? Yours looks awesome and gives me motivation On Bills thread I just asked a question about the front of the cabins on these boats If you get a chance look it over
Did you buy a vaneer and have them use particle board? Did you use the piece you already have or cut something new? Glue it on or glass it on?
Thanks
Parnell

[superhatz]

Aaron
I am most certainly not for sure of that at all. I did have a friend with me who did sell vaneers years ago and that was his guess. How would I know? Yours looks awesome and gives me motivation On Bills thread I just asked a question about the front of the cabins on these boats If you get a chance look it over
Did you buy a vaneer and have them use particle board? Did you use the piece you already have or cut something new? Glue it on or glass it on?
Thanks
Parnell

Parnell,

I bought a piece of 4x10ft mahogany with a real wood back...the veneer is about 1mm thick. I screwed it and glued it...like the originals.

I sealed the wood with Smith's Penetrating Epoxy then put many coats of Epifane's Woodfinish Gloss on top....sealed the edges with some teak caulk.

It was a total pain in the a$$ but worth it in my opinion.

[Sweet Cheekz]

Well worth it from here It looks very sweet we shall see what mine involves Thanks
Parnell

[gcarter]

Aaron, you did that exactly right. Sealing w/epoxy followed by a good grade of varnish w/some good UV inhibitors is correct.
I'm sure you know to stay on top of that varnish because the epoxy will go downhill fast w/o the UV inhibitors.
That's a really good looking finish job.

[Carl C]

Parnell,
I bought a piece of 4x10ft mahogany with a real wood back...the veneer is about 1mm thick. I screwed it and glued it...like the originals.
I sealed the wood with Smith's Penetrating Epoxy then put many coats of Epifane's Woodfinish Gloss on top....sealed the edges with some teak caulk.
It was a total pain in the a$$ but worth it in my opinion.

That is beautiful!!:cool!:

[Sweet Cheekz]

Here's what mine looked like when I finally got around to looking at it I just put it away when I bought the boat and never gave it another thought Its going to take a bunch of time to sand but early signs are good
Parnell

[Conquistador_del_mar]

Here's what mine looked like when I finally got around to looking at it I just put it away when I bought the boat and never gave it another thought Its going to take a bunch of time to sand but early signs are good
Parnell

When I took mine off the boat, I laid it under the boat where it sill rests. I will not be using mine, but it appears to be as Aaron said - sort of a plastic composite material. It is huge at about 10' long or so. Bill

[Sweet Cheekz]

Bill & Aaron
Did either of you have to make a new windscreen? Are you aware of anyone that has the pattern or an old windscreen Mine was already gone. Also any ideas on how to aquire another dash. Thanks
Parnell

[scippy]

Scippy What are you doing about your center piece? I asked you over on osos what are you doing with your windscreen?
Where are some pics man?
Parnell

My insert is single fiberglass 1/4" thick - no hidden veneer. the insert will be painted the same color as the hullsides
(color undetermined so far) to off set the white deck she'll have.

My plan for the V windscreen is what Mario is accomplishing right now on his sport V deck.....smoked lexan.

[superhatz]

Bill & Aaron
Did either of you have to make a new windscreen? Are you aware of anyone that has the pattern or an old windscreen Mine was already gone. Also any ideas on how to aquire another dash. Thanks
Parnell

I had a windscreen made by Don Racine in Jacksonville...he did a great job. I think he may have made a mold of sorts??....I think his e-mail is boatclinic@aol.com ....he used to come on here...

[superhatz]

Here ya go....:)

http://www.boatclinic.net/

[MDonziM]

Funny thing with my starfire magnum left the recessed area in the deck and just painted the stripes over it. The wood laminate doesnt go with the paint scheme, I wish it was filled in flush but that would be a pain and I want to keep it as orig. as possible. Cant attach the pic, its in post 11 of "finally, my mag search ends"

[Sweet Cheekz]

Marshall I think its cool that you can tell it's there Still looks unique
Thanks Aaron I will contact him
Parnell

[Sweet Cheekz]

Got it sanded off then wetted it out to see what it would look like I think I will be replaceing it since it is what I will look at everytime I boat but fun to think about this early in my project
Parnell

[gcarter]

Got it sanded off then wetted it out to see what it would look like I think I will be replaceing it since it is what I will look at everytime I boat but fun to think about this early in my project
Parnell

At least you have a good template.

[Sweet Cheekz]

Scippy
Are you going to use your anchor locker? If so let me know what you do about the anchor maybe we can get a volume discount :yes:
Also where are you going to get the lexan windscreen?
Parnell

[scippy]

Scippy
Are you going to use your anchor locker? If so let me know what you do about the anchor maybe we can get a volume discount :yes:
Also where are you going to get the lexan windscreen?
Parnell

P, I certainly would like to, I think it's at a very functional location -heck, I think it's better than the alternative to the cabin or cockpit area! - The problem is, I have no anchor locker hatch nor anchor, but Bud Weisner (Mr. Vinyl) on OSO has right now Anchor locker hatches (new) he's also working with Mark (H20boater) also of OSO - to replicate the original anchor's.
As far as the lexan windscreen is concerned? - Mario is presently fabricating one for his sport (we both share the same "V" style wind fairing) he offered up the template when he's done. I don't think this will work for you though, since your's is a straight fairing, but the smoked lexan would be nice just the same. I'll check to see what's up with the anchors though.

[Sweet Cheekz]

Scippy
No doubt the anchor locker is functional and I will buy one if you find one Aaron gave me a link to someone that did his windscreen and I have already sent them a note so all set there. Thanks
P

[Conquistador_del_mar]

The problem is, I have no anchor locker hatch nor anchor, but Bud Weisner (Mr. Vinyl) on OSO has right now Anchor locker hatches (new) he's also working with Mark (H20boater) also of OSO - to replicate the original anchor's.

I sold my anchor locker to Bud quite a while back. I suppose he wanted a pattern. Doesn't he have the side vents also? Bill

[scippy]

I sold my anchor locker to Bud quite a while back. I suppose he wanted a pattern. Doesn't he have the side vents also? Bill

I suppose he did, he's asking $350 a pop now!.......Maltese side vents he has....no sport side vents yet, he's waiting to cast then.

[MDonziM]

Do you know who the orig horn manufacturer was that mag used? Thinking of putting the horn back thats missing on my boat.

Thanks - Marshall

[superhatz]

Do you know who the orig horn manufacturer was that mag used? Thinking of putting the horn back thats missing on my boat.

Thanks - Marshall

Ongaro....they still make 'em.

:)

[MDonziM]

Ongaro....they still make 'em.

:)

Thanks Aaron- do you know a site etc. where you have seen them?

[superhatz]

I think this is where I got mine?

http://marineengineparts.com/shopsite_sc/store/html/page333.html

[Sweet Cheekz]

I googled them and their website showed up find Thanks for being such a great source Aaron
Parnell

[MDonziM]

I think this is where I got mine?

http://marineengineparts.com/shopsite_sc/store/html/page333.html

Thanks Aaron