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seano
07-17-2010, 11:19 AM
Here's mine...pulled the deck off yesterday... I think the tank looks good...how about u guys? LOL

gcarter
07-17-2010, 11:26 AM
First off, I'm really encouraged by so many of you starting these projects.
It makes for better, safer boating, and gives a real sense of accomplishment.
Good looking tank!:wink:
Excellent hull support system.

seano
07-17-2010, 11:39 AM
thx george. the boat has been sitting in my basement for a loooong time...so i figured it was about time i stopped looking at it and got it done...

here's the deck right befre I put it on the trailer. I build a cradle for it as well and will start cutting the coring out this week.

Carl C
07-17-2010, 12:13 PM
I think the tank looks good
Tank is fine. Put her back together......

the boat has been sitting in my basement
That must have been fun carrying down the stairs... ;)

Greg Guimond
07-17-2010, 10:09 PM
How many inches forward of the transom is the start of that tank?

seano
07-18-2010, 10:12 AM
coring is out...

Zinger
07-18-2010, 12:01 PM
What wood is used for coring, is it used on never boats . Does it start seperating from the fiberglass, what are some signs of having coring issue's.

seano
07-19-2010, 08:09 AM
What wood is used for coring, is it used on never boats . Does it start seperating from the fiberglass, what are some signs of having coring issue's.

The coring on my boat was end-grain balsa and manufacturers still use it today. It was completely saturated and delaminated from the deck. I'll be replacing with a composite material so the next guy will never have to go through this again. :)

You can tell if there are issues with the coring in several ways:

1. tap with a plastic mallet and you will hear a "dead" or "hollow" sound.
2. dark patches of mold will appear in the underside of the deck
3. the deck will be soft when walked on
4. when drilling to install deck hardware, the drill bit will contain a wet material and not dust or wood shavings. You will also find a noticable void when you break through the top layer of glass.

I'm sure there are other ways, so maybe others can chime in on their experiences.

hope this helps.

A2VeeDub
07-19-2010, 09:33 AM
Get some ice on that beer! The mountains are turning white!

Sweet Cheekz
07-19-2010, 09:48 AM
Good start Keep the pics coming
Parnell

seano
07-19-2010, 10:37 AM
Tank is fine. Put her back together......
That must have been fun carrying down the stairs... ;)

Carrying it down the stairs was easy...getting it back up the stairs was a bit more difficult... :)

Kirbyvv
07-19-2010, 12:20 PM
Another victim....
I just finished mine. Take your time and do it right.

Cuda
07-19-2010, 02:27 PM
Tank is fine. Put her back together......
That must have been fun carrying down the stairs... ;)
He probably had what we had in Oregon called a daylight basement. It was on the side of a hill.

Cuda
07-19-2010, 02:29 PM
What wood is used for coring, is it used on never boats . Does it start seperating from the fiberglass, what are some signs of having coring issue's.
Yes it is. It's small squares of wood.

Cuda
07-19-2010, 02:33 PM
Without coring, the boat would be too heavy. Some boats were made with fiberglass I think it was call kcell, but they found out it soaked up more water than wood. Just think, if you took a five gallon bucket of water, all the wood on a wood cored boat wouldn't soak it up.
I had a new hatch made for my 22, and it was solid fiberglass. Ask Howard how heavy the hatch is.

wagspe208
07-20-2010, 12:18 AM
I'll be replacing with a composite material so the next guy will never have to go through this again. :)


What or did you decide on for replacement coring material. I am right there also.
Wags

seano
07-21-2010, 04:42 PM
Wags,

coosa is going to be twice the price of balsa...so I think i am going with balsa, being sure to seal all holes properly....

not 100% decided yet, but I am leanign that way.

BTW, if I'm not mistaken, you work/worked for Livorsi...correct? You helped me with my guages when I did my Cigarette 28 SS back in 2001...

seano
10-04-2010, 08:13 AM
got the deck back from the fiberglass shop on saturday. now the real fun begins.

Greg Guimond
10-04-2010, 11:04 AM
seano,
Coming along nicely. What are the chances of you supporting that deck and then popping it on a scale to get a "naked" weight? It would be really interesting to see what a re-cored factory deck weighs in at. Many members have asked and I would think it should be easy to do with 2 house scales as it can't be more then 500 lbs

Madcow
10-08-2010, 11:15 PM
seano,
Coming along nicely. What are the chances of you supporting that deck and then popping it on a scale to get a "naked" weight? It would be really interesting to see what a re-cored factory deck weighs in at. Many members have asked and I would think it should be easy to do with 2 house scales as it can't be more then 500 lbs
When mine was upsidown I could stand in the middle and pick it up and move it around myself. Way less than 300 would be my guess.

gcarter
10-09-2010, 07:12 AM
My 22 deck weighed about 500# when I removed it.
It's heavier now, but I can still easily lift either end on my shoulders and move the support around.
Ted gave a seight on a new 22 deck, and it was in the 600-650# range.
Wouldn't a 16 be only 1/2 that?

Greg Guimond
10-09-2010, 09:30 PM
The only way to know with accuracy is for Seano to drag out the scales!!

Paging Seano...........!!!

Planetwarmer
10-10-2010, 12:09 AM
I wonder if there is a better coring material than Coosa or balsa. They use aluminum mesh in aircraft. I'm just thinking if $$$ were no object.

What do you fellers think?

gcarter
10-10-2010, 07:24 AM
I wonder if there is a better coring material than Coosa or balsa. They use aluminum mesh in aircraft. I'm just thinking if $$$ were no object.

What do you fellers think?

There's some high end composite honeycomb material available.
That would probably be the lightest.

Greg Guimond
10-10-2010, 07:39 AM
When mine was upsidown I could stand in the middle and pick it up and move it around myself. Way less than 300 would be my guess.


The deck on Surface Tension weighed in at 409 lbs on an electronic scale. We recored it with Divinycell.

Greg Guimond
11-29-2010, 09:23 PM
Seano, how much further did you get on your 16?

seano
12-23-2010, 08:02 AM
Seano, how much further did you get on your 16?

haven't touched it in a while...work will resume in january(hopefully)

MDonziM
12-24-2010, 11:13 AM
Sean,

Glad to see you found a new project. Good luck.

I'm replacing the drives on my magnum and repainting her this winter. Not a deck off but a couple wet spots around some deck hardware.

Merry X-mas Marshall

seano
09-05-2011, 04:52 PM
transom filled and hull is ready for new gel...

seano
09-11-2011, 01:11 PM
little bit of wiring and paint on the deck before i flip it over

seano
01-14-2012, 06:25 PM
some boats were just meant for the scrap heap and this one has me thinking i should have just put it there. I could have bought a decent used 16 for what i have in this thing right now...

the deck is so bad, i've had to sand right down to bare glass...and still cracks and pock marks exist... now I know why some people convert an otherwise great boat into a center console... :)

Buddyc
01-14-2012, 07:09 PM
My 18 was pretty close to the same. I was fairing all day today and finally making some progress. I also stripped it down to bare glass. Good luck!

OFFSHORE GINGER
01-14-2012, 07:39 PM
Seano ,do you know Paul or should i say ( ratackle )........................Artie

seano
01-14-2012, 10:11 PM
thanks buddy - any pics?

artie, i dont believe so...why do you ask?

Lively-one
01-15-2012, 05:31 PM
Guys, why not use nidacore or one of the others wood alternatives available today?

These alternatives are used regularly on boats down here in Texas now. I know it is more expensive but it takes wood-rot completely out of the equation and it is much lighter. I have a good friend here who builds boats and I can get some info regarding cost and sources and such if anyone would like. I plan to use it when I build up enough courage, and cash, for a resto.

HallJ
01-15-2012, 08:38 PM
The polypropylene honeycomb is pretty cheap and doesn't absorb water.

http://www.expresscomposites.com/honeycomb.html

Jeff

Lively-one
01-15-2012, 10:39 PM
[ QUOTE=$originalposter]{$pagetext}[/QUOTE]

That's basically what Nida Core is but I think it may be a bit more expensive than what is described on the price list in your attachment. The stuff is great unless you need to screw something to it cause it won't hold a screw.

dwiggl
01-16-2012, 01:33 PM
Just brainsorming here..... Could you dremel tool those cracks & pocks, then fill with gel. Then throw a layer of fresh glass on top to tighten the surface. There is a gel coat material manufacturer that makes a polyester gel that is highly sandable yet sprayable. Used in fairing new molds. After the fresh glass, spray a coat of that stuff (or roll it on for that manner). Then you have a nice, tight, new base to fair and lay down whatever finish you are considering.
I will try to find the name of that material. It's been 20 years since I got my fingers sticky...
Oh yeah, one more thing, I remember a good post cure is needed before fairing as polyester shrinks (including that beautiful core job). Sunlight 70 degrees + or a paint booth oven.

Sorry if you already know this stuff. Keep going. You will have so much satisfaction in your project, and saving a legend.

MR MAGOO
01-16-2012, 03:18 PM
Wow, how did I miss this thread! Glad (and surprised) to see so much love into that old Donzi !!!

I've got some pics from when it was sitting up here in the woods.

What's going in for power Sean?

Kurt

seano
01-24-2012, 03:28 PM
Kurt,

I have a complete LOW hour 350mag/alpha in my basement that I bought a couple of years ago. should be a nice package when done - hopefully some time this century.

on the subject of coring, i realize that coosa, nidacore and other products don't rot like balsa, but the coring in this boat lasted for a LONG time despite improper sealing and neglect. If holes are properly sealed(which they will be because I am doing the rigging) - then this should last another 30 years before needing replacement.

In the end - for me, the it was just too cost prohibitive on this project to use anything but balsa.

as for all the cracks, my plan is to grind everything down, dremel out the worst cracks, use some high build primer and then gel coat - all this unless of course my glass guy tells me otherwise. I just do the grunt work and pay him to do the important stuff. :)

seano
11-30-2012, 03:58 PM
i might end up winning the prize for the longest restoration... :)

awlgrip laid down...

gcarter
11-30-2012, 04:04 PM
Sean, the paint looks great. That is hard to beat.

Yours will likely NOT be the longest rebuild. Mine is 5-1/2 years so far, and I think there's some that have gone over ten years.

jl1962
11-30-2012, 04:26 PM
Awesome.

Will you keep the deck blue w/ white stripe?

seano
11-30-2012, 04:50 PM
thanks for the compliments. I cant take credit for the paint, but i did to the prep work. the deck will remain blue with the white stripe.

i think i bought this thing about 10 years ago... will need to go back and check.

kurt, when did i buy this thing??? I can't remember... I think it was 2003 or 2004...

Ghost
11-30-2012, 04:50 PM
Seano, that paint looks absolutely amazing.

jl1962
11-30-2012, 05:03 PM
Nice.
I like the solid hull/deck color combo on the early boats .

73933

MDonziM
12-01-2012, 09:22 AM
Seano,

The awlgrip looks great. I assume they have a heavy primer you can use on the deck? You trying to finish by this spring?

- Marshall

mario
12-01-2012, 10:20 AM
looks great
man 1962 that red 16 is sweet

72Hornet
12-03-2012, 07:40 AM
JL1962, love your 16! Is that an Awlgrip color? If so, what is it called. Looks very close to the "Lucan Red" from Donzi. (I believe that is what they called it) Stunning!

jl1962
12-03-2012, 07:48 AM
Although the boat has always been red, it was painted 15+ years ago (and two owners ago) w/ some sort of unknown Imron type paint. I actually don't know the color. But it still looks great and has almost zero fade.

I suppose the attached photo is Lucan red - I've always liked this ad. Might have to try the dinner jacket/champagne thing w/ the Mrs. sometime!
http://allardmarine.com/1966%2016%20Brochure.htm

It's a great boat and gets lots of attention.

Sorry for the hijack Seano!

mattyboy
12-03-2012, 09:06 AM
Seano

nice work!!!!! was this the blue OB boat big johnrude on the back it was ontop of a scrap pile?

awesome work blue my new favorite color

wonder white, grumble green , lucan red, christina blue




here is the original 67 color chart from the LGDCC website (http://www.lgdonziclassic.net/pdfs/64flyer.pdf)

seano
12-03-2012, 01:15 PM
that red boat is beautiful!

this was the o/b boat that i picked up form kurt many, many years ago. ive been slowly working on it and acquiring parts along the way. It still has a long way to go - once i get it flipped back over, i'll need to remove and replace the fuel tank. after that, i can start putting it back together.

the deck is still pretty rough and has a lot of gel coat cracks, but I keep grinding away at them and then we'll use some high-build primer and then awlgrip it - blue with the white stripe.

72Hornet
12-03-2012, 03:15 PM
[ QUOTE=$originalposter]{$pagetext}[/QUOTE]
Seano, I really enjoy seeing all of the progress on your 16. Anyone who takes on projects like these are to be commended! Alot of work, stress, frustration and cost! I seem to learn a bit more with each and every task and it becomes a bit easier. I think you start to think differently (in a good way) and you become better at planning and getting the tasks done. It always seems that what I think will be pretty easy is alot tougher and the tasks that I think will be tough, go pretty well! Go figure! Hats off to seeing this to fruition!

seano
01-18-2013, 03:38 PM
I'm thinking about letting this project go....i get this way from time to time, and right now, I can't imagine when i am going to find the time to complete it...and to top it off, my glass guy quit on me.

hull is painted, deck is recored, but still needs to be faired and painted and the gas tank needs replacement. I've got over $3k into it now, and I know I would never get that, but if i were to sell it this way, what's it worth? Anyone have any interest?

scippy
01-19-2013, 11:03 PM
Getting this deck right (all the time & labor you forsee ahead) is the proverbial straw that's got you hitting the wall now.
Take a few days or more to clear your head so as not to be overwhelmed by what needs to be accomplished in a hurry.
You've been at it awhile now and for a part time restoration it's moved right along, your just stuck on the most tedious
portion of it now.......only you know if you can afford to go any further.
I think that anybody involved in a boat restoration more than likely has thrown down the goggles and gloves a few times.

seano
09-13-2013, 03:16 PM
boat is in the classifieds and needs a new home. I'm done. 1900 on trailer takes it home. the interior is brand new and alone is almost worth the asking price...

Redink
09-14-2013, 09:26 PM
Where is she located?

Ken

seano
09-15-2013, 01:59 PM
Ken,

The boat is on Long Island - in Southold.

Sean

Conquistador_del_mar
09-16-2013, 02:26 AM
Although the boat has always been red, it was painted 15+ years ago (and two owners ago) w/ some sort of unknown Imron type paint. I actually don't know the color. But it still looks great and has almost zero fade.


Seano, I am sorry to hear that you have dropped the restoration, but I understand all too well.

JL, If you ever have to match the Imron on your boat, it was probably a color chart Imron color. I am guessing it is 51078 Imron since it seems to match the red Imron I chose for my Donzi restoration.