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Planetwarmer
05-31-2010, 11:00 PM
Should there be any vibration when I turn or when the boat is not properly trimmed? 454mag/Alpha 1/ 21P quicksilver cleaver.

There is some vibration that rattles the boat when I turn sharp or when the boat is not trimmed perfectly. This isnt normal is it? I checked the U joints last summer and they seemed to be in great shape.

Any ideas?

Planetwarmer
05-31-2010, 11:01 PM
The prop is tight and has the correct bushings too.

ACE51
05-31-2010, 11:08 PM
Not sure on the turning, but I get vibration from too much trim. (up)

454 and an Alpha?! :eek: :crossfing:

I'm running a 305/alpha 22p

Planetwarmer
06-01-2010, 01:26 AM
Not sure on the turning, but I get vibration from too much trim. (up)

454 and an Alpha?! :eek: :crossfing:

I'm running a 305/alpha 22p
It vibrates when trimmed down or up, and not excessively down or up either.

MOP
06-01-2010, 05:39 AM
My guess would be the gimble bearing.

Phil

MDonziM
06-01-2010, 05:54 AM
I don't know about alpha's but I grenaded my ujoints a few years back with no warning, and I believe they were "new". Its a pain to change but that is what I would do and I would prob change the coupler while at it.

CHACHI
06-01-2010, 07:41 AM
Engine has to come out for the coupler.

Ken

VetteLT193
06-01-2010, 07:53 AM
My guess would be the gimble bearing.

Phil

+1... and/or the U joints. they can let go pretty quick.

In my opinion, do everything at the same time. Bellows, U joints, Bearing, hoses. That should set you up for a few years of not having to remove the drive.

sterndrive engineering makes a kit for $80 that covers all but the U joints.

Also... if it is just starting you would be surprised that a few pumps of grease in the zerk on the side of the drive might make it last through the summer....

G-MAN
06-01-2010, 08:15 AM
Check the prop real good, had the same problem with the ski boat last summer , swtched props and the problem went away , found one blade was just a little bent you had to realy look at all the blades to see that one was just a little flattend out on its pitch, it wasn't like a damaged tip

mrfixxall
06-01-2010, 08:18 AM
+2 gimbal bearing,,also it only take's one dry u-joint cup to get a viberation..

MOP
06-01-2010, 03:25 PM
Best thing pull the drive! Put two fingers inside the the bearing is should fell glassy smooth when you turn it, it will have a bit of a stiff feel but MUST be smooth!

Planetwarmer
06-01-2010, 09:31 PM
Best thing pull the drive! Put two fingers inside the the bearing is should fell glassy smooth when you turn it, it will have a bit of a stiff feel but MUST be smooth!
So, if this bearing is worn out, this will cause vibrations when there are stresses on the drive? I guess that is obvious.

MOP
06-02-2010, 05:49 AM
So, if this bearing is worn out, this will cause vibrations when there are stresses on the drive? I guess that is obvious.

When the bearing is getting tired it is only quiet when everything is in perfect straight alignment, they will make noise when the wheel is turned or the drive is trimmed.

Now something we did not touch on! If the engine is out of alignment it can also cause the noise, so when you pull the drive it should slide out freely with no resistance that pretty much tells you the alignment is decent. If it is hard to get out you may just find a good bearing and need to align the engine. You did not state if the noise is only in one direction IE when you turn left or right, if the noise is ONLY in one direction that pretty much tells you it is out of alignment. Another very common thing on I/O's if for the stbd motor mount to loosen allowing the motor to drop down knocking it out of line, check to see if the bottom nut has walked down. As you can see there are a few things that can cause the noise. At any rate I would get the drive off check the bearing and use the alignment tool to see if that is spot on. The gimble bearing should be greased frequently, I give mine one small half stroke shot every time I use mine.

Phil

thehow33
06-02-2010, 11:58 AM
It sounds like an alignment issue to me.

However, (454mag/Alpha 1/ 21P quicksilver cleaver) is this the setup that you've been using without any problems and all of sudden these issues have come up?

If not than definitely change your prop. Everyone I've talked to about cleavers said they are terrible.

MOP
06-02-2010, 09:15 PM
It sounds like an alignment issue to me.

However, (454mag/Alpha 1/ 21P quicksilver cleaver) is this the setup that you've been using without any problems and all of sudden these issues have come up?

If not than definitely change your prop. Everyone I've talked to about cleavers said they are terrible.

I have to go along with you on the cleaver, it was the worst prop I tried on my 16 and again on my 22.
If this was a sudden occurrence check the stbd motor mount that can creep down in one outing.

Phil

thehow33
06-02-2010, 10:57 PM
I have to go along with you on the cleaver, it was the worst prop I tried on my 16 and again on my 22.
If this was a sudden occurrence check the stbd motor mount that can creep down in one outing.

Phil

I forgot to mention that I actually did try a 25p cleaver on my 22, but I couldn't even get on plane. I noticed a lot of vibration as soon as the prop would blow out.

Planetwarmer
06-02-2010, 11:01 PM
I forgot to mention that I actually did try a 25p cleaver on my 22, but I couldn't even get on plane. I noticed a lot of vibration as soon as the prop would blow out.
Ill check the motor mount. It is the stock motor, drive, and prop that came on the boat in 87'.

I think the noise has been there since I bought the boat 2 years ago, I'm just trying to work out all of the kinks this summer.

The boat vibrates heavily only when I turn either direction, or when not properly trimmed. Its a great trim indicator!:)

Cuda
06-03-2010, 06:20 AM
A clever worked best on my Minx, and I had a boatload of props to try.

VetteLT193
06-03-2010, 06:56 AM
A clever worked best on my Minx, and I had a boatload of props to try.

It is different strokes for different folks. Eddie LOVED the cleaver on his 22 and kept trying to find one in a much larger size to handle the increase in power. I think it's how your personal butt feels in the boat. :cool:

MOP
06-03-2010, 05:58 PM
Viabrates in both directions and has been there awhile it is the gimble bearing, change it out before it locks up and spins in the shield and chews the bore or you will be out of action for awhile!

Phil

GBond
06-03-2010, 06:57 PM
Try a more conservative wheel and see what happens. :wink:

Cuda
06-04-2010, 05:24 PM
I'm betting on the gimbal too.

Planetwarmer
06-07-2010, 08:00 PM
will I need a special tool to pull the bearing and race? Is there a way to lube the gimble bearing? I squeeze grease into all of the zerts, I just figured they were for greasing the hinges (or what ever you call them) on the drive.

VetteLT193
06-07-2010, 08:40 PM
will I need a special tool to pull the bearing and race? Is there a way to lube the gimble bearing? I squeeze grease into all of the zerts, I just figured they were for greasing the hinges (or what ever you call them) on the drive.

the zerk on the right hand side of the drive, kind of center, sends grease into the bearing. The grease actually travels down a tube in the transom assembly.

you should go to mercruiserparts.com and read their tutorial on doing the bellows, bearing, etc. It is an accurate and comical write up. it is also pretty well true to form.

Walt. H.
06-07-2010, 11:57 PM
Once the bearing is shot as your mention of growling, greasing it now will NOT help at all...
And continuing to run it is only going to make things worse especially if it decide to start seizing and scores out your input shaft, better to spend alittle now or alot more later which i'm betting will be very soon..

Only people heal on their own, mechanical items don't!
WH