Time Flies . . Magnum 27

[mphatc]

days are to short, and Time Flies . . . I've finally started work on the Magnum 27 again. When I last left it in the fall of 2009 MOP had spent a week working on it because again I was too busy . . with his efforts I did get a chance to launch and run the boat for 5 hours after 14 years of poor storage.

I've stripped 7 layers of old bottom paint off . . well. I hired a kid to do this, took him 3 days with a DA on his back! The best part, he did an awesome job, and knowing how hard this job was I paid him well! Under all the layers of paint . . .not a single issue, crack or stress mark! A few scratches, an area where it had to have rubbed on some rocks, but only scratches through the gelcoat.

I did discover a weird thing . . the through hull water pick ups are
not symetrically installed??? One is 12" off the centerline, the other is 4" closer to the bottom of the Vee . . .

So do I leave it this way . . . or move one or replace both with transom water pickups?
This boat will run two Volvos and new 383 cu in 450-500 HP SBC engines.

For this year I need to run the old 350s . . so to ensure the most reliabilty I'll replace the ignitions with two new MSD distributors, anything for the strongest spark I can get!

The bottom gets a Petit Epoxy barrier coat and then two coats of ViViD white.

to catch up with what I started with . . it's all here, in the next few days I'll post more pics of all that has been done and completed since then.
http://www.donzi.net/forums/showthread.php?t=54735&highlight=mphatc&page=3

MPHATC

Mario L

68 Magnum 27
69 Donzi Corsican

[scippy]

Mario, Times fly's when your busy, that's a good thing!.....Your Mag looked great last year suppose even better now with the updates.

[dammmagnum]

days are to short, and Time Flies . . . I've finally started work on the Magnum 27 again. When I last left it in the fall of 2009 MOP had spent a week working on it because again I was too busy . . with his efforts I did get a chance to launch and run the boat for 5 hours after 14 years of poor storage.

I've stripped 7 layers of old bottom paint off . . well. I hired a kid to do this, took him 3 days with a DA on his back! The best part, he did an awesome job, and knowing how hard this job was I paid him well! Under all the layers of paint . . .not a single issue, crack or stress mark! A few scratches, an area where it had to have rubbed on some rocks, but only scratches through the gelcoat.

I did discover a weird thing . . the through hull water pick ups are
not symetrically installed??? One is 12" off the centerline, the other is 4" closer to the bottom of the Vee . . .

So do I leave it this way . . . or move one or replace both with transom water pickups?
This boat will run two Volvos and new 383 cu in 450-500 HP SBC engines.

For this year I need to run the old 350s . . so to ensure the most reliabilty I'll replace the ignitions with two new MSD distributors, anything for the strongest spark I can get!

The bottom gets a Petit Epoxy barrier coat and then two coats of ViViD white.

to catch up with what I started with . . it's all here, in the next few days I'll post more pics of all that has been done and completed since then.
http://www.donzi.net/forums/showthread.php?t=54735&highlight=mphatc&page=3

MPHATC

Mario L

68 Magnum 27
69 Donzi Corsican

Mario L,

Great news. Glad to hear that you are getting ready to work on the Magnum, we all love to see more photos of your progress.
Thank you
Jim

[ChristopherL]

Photos, a bit overdue and a bit behind in comparison to the progress being made, but that is my fault.... Dad's a bit busy running the business, and keeping things moving forward, so I'm supposed to "feed the need" for documentation. ;)

The below images are from the initial strip/sanding of the hull.
We've now accelerated onto the start of the epoxy sealer which they started to apply today. More photos of the current state before weeks end. :crossfing:


What we started with:
http://www.vsr1.com/uploads/images/Marine/Magnum/magnum007.jpg

After the first few hours of sanding:
http://www.vsr1.com/uploads/images/Marine/Magnum/magnum008.jpg


http://www.vsr1.com/uploads/images/Marine/Magnum/magnum009.jpg

http://www.vsr1.com/uploads/images/Marine/Magnum/magnum012.jpg

http://www.vsr1.com/uploads/images/Marine/Magnum/magnum013.jpg

http://www.vsr1.com/uploads/images/Marine/Magnum/magnum014.jpg

Hopefully I'll have some more legitimate photos of progress and the new hull appearance tomorrow evening. I'll leave the technical jargon and text explanation to Dad...

-Chris

[mphatc]

These images were after the rough stripping of the bottom, from here all scratches and chips were repaired, the large patch was from the thru hull head fitting .. .. the hull here is 3/4" thick!
To my glee and amazement, this boat sat on a roller trailer for 14 years, and there is not a divit in the bottom. It's as true as made! Way better than my Donzi! While the boat in the paint shop we're also rebuilding the trailer with all new polyurthane rollers and keel rollers . . 48 hull rollers and 7 keel . . these won't mark the white bottom.
We're applying three coats of Petit epoxy primer 4100 and 4101 to be followed by Petit Vivid White . .. this should seal the bottom and protect it from blistering as the boat will hang on a mooring. I've used the same on my Boston Whaler with good success.
More pics this week!
Mario L.

[ChristopherL]

More photos.... These mark a significant milestone in the scope of the Time Flies project. So while they may not look like much, it's a huge "check mark" off the list. The visual impact this change makes, is quite substantial.

Here is a "before" shot for reference:

http://www.vsr1.com/uploads/images/Marine/Magnum/Magnum002.jpg


After the Epoxy Primer:


http://www.vsr1.com/uploads/images/Marine/Magnum/magnum015.jpg

http://www.vsr1.com/uploads/images/Marine/Magnum/magnum016.jpg

http://www.vsr1.com/uploads/images/Marine/Magnum/magnum017.jpg

http://www.vsr1.com/uploads/images/Marine/Magnum/magnum018.jpg

[ChristopherL]

Time Flies once again rests on her trailer. All the trailer rollers have been replaced with Poly anti-mar/marking rollers.

http://www.vsr1.com/uploads/images/Marine/Magnum/magnum019.jpg

http://www.vsr1.com/uploads/images/Marine/Magnum/magnum020.jpg

http://www.vsr1.com/uploads/images/Marine/Magnum/magnum021.jpg

http://www.vsr1.com/uploads/images/Marine/Magnum/magnum022.jpg


Up next.... graphics. This is the part I get excited about. We've had them squirreled away for some time, waiting for the bottom paint to be completed, and the hull to get another buffing to remove any remaining marks.

-Chris

[HIGH LIFE]

mphatc, Are you going to put a RED bootstripe on her ? "HIGH LIFE"

[mphatc]

High Life,
yes, but I'm unsure if it's going to be the original 2" wide bow to stern, or the double stripe as on the later boats .. Also considering a tapered stripe as on other brands and newer
Plus a few other surprises ! :nilly:
This boat will stand out!
I'm now awaiting the arrival of the new ignitions and mufflers, and hope to find time this w/e to build the new windshield. It will be a black Vee .
Mario L.

[dammmagnum]

High Life,
yes, but I'm unsure if it's going to be the original 2" wide bow to stern, or the double stripe as on the later boats .. Also considering a tapered stripe as on other brands and newer
Plus a few other surprises ! :nilly:
This boat will stand out!
I'm now awaiting the arrival of the new ignitions and mufflers, and hope to find time this w/e to build the new windshield. It will be a black Vee .
Mario L.


Hello Mario

Your Sport is looking really great, the sides and the bottom looks great
who is going to redo the interior?

Great looking
Thank you
Jim

[mphatc]

Jim,

I had the interior repaired last year. Inspite of it's terrible chewed up condition we were able to rebuild much of what was left. So it's an original red and white stripe.
From the hull number found on the seats, #71, this interior orignated from a 1969 sedan hull built for the Coast Guard. The previous owner acquired it from storage in the 80's and it was kept covered.

Eventually I'll cut the floors and build a recessed area to stand in while driving, but that's a low priority.

You can see some pics in this thread on OSO from my relaunch last fall.
http://www.offshoreonly.com/forums/magnum/217935-relaunched-after-14-years.html

Mario

[Sweet Cheekz]

Looking great guys! I wish I was at your point with mine.

Parnell

[zelatore]

Time Flies once again rests on her trailer. All the trailer rollers have been replaced with Poly anti-mar/marking rollers.



http://www.vsr1.com/uploads/images/Marine/Magnum/magnum020.jpg



http://www.vsr1.com/uploads/images/Marine/Magnum/magnum022.jpg


Up next.... graphics. This is the part I get excited about. We've had them squirreled away for some time, waiting for the bottom paint to be completed, and the hull to get another buffing to remove any remaining marks.

-Chris

Graphics??? Put a boot stripe on it and you've got all the graphics you need! That thing looks great in simple black and white; very much the classic that it is.

[scippy]

The black hull on the sport just stands alone in my opinion. It bends the lines of the hull far better than any other shade. The white Mag emblem draws you right in.........All that hull side needs is a "big ole race number" and of course, a smoked Vee windshield to complete the whole package. "Stand back youngsters!!!............Papa got some old sckool'in for ya.

[mphatc]

Zelatore,

Your right! It doesn't need more! but I'm going to do something very period and vintage . .yet with spirit!

If I don't like it I can remove it, w/o worries. This boat has imron on the sides and had a painted name from before, we cleaned that off with oven cleaner and polished the boat, no way can you see the old name, and it was on the boat for 20 years!

I'll look forward to your comments when it's done:crossfing::)

Mario L.

[zelatore]

"Stand back youngsters!!!............Papa got some old sckool'in for ya.

That sums it up perfectly! I hope you have the most loud and nasty dry pipes on that thing so when you show up at the local ramp you can scare all the 'roid boys in their roll-bar boats right out of the water!

[dammmagnum]

Zelatore,

Your right! It doesn't need more! but I'm going to do something very period and vintage . .yet with spirit!

If I don't like it I can remove it, w/o worries. This boat has imron on the sides and had a painted name from before, we cleaned that off with oven cleaner and polished the boat, no way can you see the old name, and it was on the boat for 20 years!

I'll look forward to your comments when it's done:crossfing::)

Mario L.

Hello Mario
Thank you on the Interior note
I forgot that you had the other thread on OSO, and the interior was all done over
Looks like they did a great job on the interior, nice work
Was the hull black before it was painted the Imron Black ?
The only other black Sport that I ever saw was a guy from the NJ shore that had ones with Ford engines in it This was back in 1974/75
Was my first ride in a Sport and sold me on getting one

I dropped my floor 7 inches across the forward section of the floor area.
felt a lot safer out in the ocean

Thank You
Looking great
jim

[mphatc]

Sadly I need to add mufflers . .the twin 350s in it now vent through 4 4" open pipes, it's freaking loud . . and in NH we have a nose limit . .

I will do this with vee clamps so that I can remove them and install straight through tubes . .

For this summer it will look nice, and not get out of it's own way :frown:

Mario

[scippy]

I dropped my floor 7 inches across the forward section of the floor area.
felt a lot safer out in the ocean

Thank You
Looking great
jim[/quote]

Jim, I hear what your saying about the low freeboard in the sport, you do feel like you could launch from the boat at times. Consequently, I riped out the cockpit sole and now intend to lower it, but not sure how far to go. Some here (on the site) have removed smaller sections (footings if you will) in order

[scippy]

(continued)....to feel more in the boat. Jim, did you remove 7'' of the keel stringer as well? if so, how did you compensate for the structural loss to that area?

[ChristopherL]

For this summer it will look nice, and not get out of it's own way :frown:

I thought this whole thing was being done so it could just look cool hanging on a mooring???? :wink:


Regarding the graphics... here's something to reflect upon. :yes:
http://www.vsr1.com/uploads/images/Marine/scan0022ls-4.jpg

-Chris

[mphatc]

OK, sonny boy, that's e-nuff, no more pics unless they're of the real boat and progress!!

No more clues . .


Mario L.

[dammmagnum]

I dropped my floor 7 inches across the forward section of the floor area.
felt a lot safer out in the ocean

Thank You
Looking great
jim

Jim, I hear what your saying about the low freeboard in the sport, you do feel like you could launch from the boat at times. Consequently, I riped out the cockpit sole and now intend to lower it, but not sure how far to go. Some here (on the site) have removed smaller sections (footings if you will) in order[/quote]

Mario

I lowered just the section under the bolster and forward to the console(24" wide)area and left the rear section the standard height. Part of the reason that i left the rear section normal was i had two 18 gal fuel tanks under the floor.
i also have seen just foot wells placed in the floor from stringer to striner between then center stringer and the side stringers.

Thank you
Jim

[dammmagnum]

(continued)....to feel more in the boat. Jim, did you remove 7'' of the keel stringer as well? if so, how did you compensate for the structural loss to that area?

Mario

Yes, I cut the center stringer down, But i took two pcs of 1 inch marine plywood and laminsted and glassed them on both sides of the center stringer the full lenght from bulkhead to buildhead
I heard that this was over kill, but i did it any way.

Thank you
Jim

[dammmagnum]

I thought this whole thing was being done so it could just look cool hanging on a mooring???? :wink:


Regarding the graphics... here's something to reflect upon. :yes:
http://www.vsr1.com/uploads/images/Marine/scan0022ls-4.jpg

-Chris

Mario/Chris

Do you know if your Sport was black before it was painted with black Imron?
like I said i knew of Black one in NJ that had Fords in it?
i almost brought it,, but at the time, the guy wanted too much
so I found my purple one in Fla

thank you
jim

[MOP]

Mario good to see it coming together, a real leap since the last time I climbed over the side. Hope you will be dragging it down my way this season!

Phil

[mphatc]

Jim,

Best I can tell this boat was a White hull with Yellow deck at sometime prior to the second owner. Was always in the Marblehead Harbor area of MA. It was originally owned by gearge Butler who founded Butler Aviation and a chain of GM dealers in MA and lived in the castle on Marblehead Neck. He moved from there when they wouldn't allow him to land his helicopter at home!

There's no spots on the black sides that I'm going to sand through to find out, atleast not until next winter when I raise the drives and the engines and alter the transom.
I've found that with some clever alterations to the rear hatch I have 2" of room before I need to change hatch design. I won't do that!! The original look needs to stay with the full sunpad.

7" out of the floor! Cool! Definately also planned, I'd like to follow Conquistidor's lead with hatches that fold forward to expose another deck / floor.
Likely also lower the passenger seat pedastal, Linda will prefer to be below the ejection position!
Still need to figure out how to install a head with pump out in the space ahead of my fuel tanks . .I'm imagining a holding tank forward and a transfer pump to the tank . . ? Anyone ever sean anything like this??

Mario

[dammmagnum]

Jim,

Best I can tell this boat was a White hull with Yellow deck at sometime prior to the second owner. Was always in the Marblehead Harbor area of MA. It was originally owned by gearge Butler who founded Butler Aviation and a chain of GM dealers in MA and lived in the castle on Marblehead Neck. He moved from there when they wouldn't allow him to land his helicopter at home!

There's no spots on the black sides that I'm going to sand through to find out, atleast not until next winter when I raise the drives and the engines and alter the transom.
I've found that with some clever alterations to the rear hatch I have 2" of room before I need to change hatch design. I won't do that!! The original look needs to stay with the full sunpad.

7" out of the floor! Cool! Definately also planned, I'd like to follow Conquistidor's lead with hatches that fold forward to expose another deck / floor.
Likely also lower the passenger seat pedastal, Linda will prefer to be below the ejection position!
Still need to figure out how to install a head with pump out in the space ahead of my fuel tanks . .I'm imagining a holding tank forward and a transfer pump to the tank . . ? Anyone ever sean anything like this??

Mario

Mario

I remember Butler Aviation, I lived in Nashua for 13 years. Spent a lot of time in the Marblehead -Hampton Beach area.
Understand about not wanting to sand the hull sides
I raised my drives 2 inches and added drive trim made by the folks out of Mich. along with new drive outout shafts so i could run Merc Clever props.
Am sure you and everyone will like the lowered floor. I know i felt better.

not sure about the head,, never played with adding one.
At the end,, i pretty much replaced everything,Electical, lines, including painting the hull and deck over in new purple and white with a purple deck insert in Imron

Keep us posted as you go long
Looking great

Thank you for sharing with us

Jim

[BUIZILLA]

I used to do work for Butler Aviation at MIA.... 75-77ish

[mphatc]

Jim,
When did you live in Nashua? My wife grew up there and worked for several of the big computer companies . .

And you added power trim to the old Volvo drives . I'm looking to do the same, but actually hope to develop a retrofit kit for them . . Don't think it's that hard, just a bit of time to source the parts.

Mario

[BUIZILLA]

MIA is Miami International Airport.... Butler Av had a base on AirTech's Property, and I did work for them when I worked for AirTech..

[Sweet Cheekz]

Jim
What did you do for them? I worked for an FBO in Grand RApids for 3 years during college. One of the funnest jobs I ever did
Parnell

[BUIZILLA]

I'll tell ya later, don't want to water down this topic :pimp:

[dammmagnum]

Jim,
When did you live in Nashua? My wife grew up there and worked for several of the big computer companies . .

And you added power trim to the old Volvo drives . I'm looking to do the same, but actually hope to develop a retrofit kit for them . . Don't think it's that hard, just a bit of time to source the parts.

Mario

Hello Mario

I worked for Digital Equipment for 13 years during the hay day of the high tech industy in that area.
From 1982 to 1995 , when i moved to Calif , also lived in Puerto Rico for about 2 1/2 years

The power trim set up i used from from the folks in Mich. used Merc rams and pumps, i got the trim set up and output shafts from Roger Munn when he switched drives from his Volves to MDS speedos
am sure some of the Magnum folks on line from Mich would know about them. I also think that the later Volvo 280 drives used a system also that might work

Thank you
Jim

[dammmagnum]

Jim
What did you do for them? I worked for an FBO in Grand RApids for 3 years during college. One of the funnest jobs I ever did
Parnell

Hello Parnell

I didn't work for Butler,, Just knew of them from living in NH and seeing their planes

am sure it was a fun job,

You may have meant this for the other Jim
Sorry about that


Thank you
Jim

[HIGH LIFE]

Mario, On my Sedan I have a porcolin(sp) toilet (manual flush) to a holding tank, that is higher than the base of the toilet...NO PUMP needed. Michael "HIGH LIFE"

[mphatc]

Micheal,

Thanks, I'll need to look at my head and see if the pump will do this .. I suppose I could just connect a hose to it see how high it can pump . . .


If that worksl I'll need to figure out how to diguise the pump out port . . just wouldn't look correct on an old Magnum.

Mario

[HIGH LIFE]

Mario, Since there were no regs for waste disposal at that time, I installed a deck fitting, make sure the cover has WASTE written on it so nobody would mistake it for water or gas. This happened to a friends boat, not good !!! Michael "HIGH LIFE"

[mphatc]

Mike,
I'll figure out what my "head" can do before I try this! It would be a real mess . . and I don't think you'll be here to help clean my bilge!
On the bright side, ordered my new props from Big Grizzly today an pair of Solas 21p L & R . . . these will do till I get the new engines next year.
Mufflers from GGB Exhaust Technologies . . they fit inside w/o issues!
pics coming soon.
Mario

[mphatc]

an update with pics coming later!

Grizzly's props have arrived, my new MSD ignitions are all installed, and the VEE windshield is all made!! I fabbed the mounting base for the lexan today.

I elected to make the mounting base for the black lexan windshield from teak.
A few measurements that might help the next person to try this.

The Magnum windshield is sloped back at a 45 degree angle
Seen from above the total combined angle is 50 - 52 degrees.

Sadly no surface is flat or straight, so some compromises had to be made. Once I made the bent lexan I raised it 1/4" off the deck and filled the gap with black RTV. This seals and hides the mismatch of the lexan and the fiberglass.

While I worked on this my son applied all the graphics. Now the title of the thread has meaning! The race number comes from the year of the boat.

All that's left here is the 2" wide red waterline!

A short story behind the name . . 2 years ago Linda and I were Puerto Rico, sitting in a beach bar drinking some rum drink, on the wall behind us was this flag, in red black and white . . we both looked at it w/o saying anything, and then looked at each other and said: Time Files . . that's the name for the boat!
http://www.piratesplunder.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=product.display&Product_ID=5

It stuck, and the artwork for the skull and cross bones is a spin on the original done by my Mom who is an artist and painter.

I'll post pics tomorrow in the AM.

Mario L.

[Greg Guimond]

Great project! If possible snap some photos of the trailer as well once she is launched.

[scippy]

Mario, Just by looking at the older pics of some vintage 27 sport Vee type windshields they appeared (for me) to be much too large and clumsy, but certainly considering the sport's low freeboard they must have served well against the wind and a feeling of more enclosure in the cockpit. It will be nice to see a modern element to an otherwise timeless design.

[dammmagnum]

an update with pics coming later!

Grizzly's props have arrived, my new MSD ignitions are all installed, and the VEE windshield is all made!! I fabbed the mounting base for the lexan today.

I elected to make the mounting base for the black lexan windshield from teak.
A few measurements that might help the next person to try this.

The Magnum windshield is sloped back at a 45 degree angle
Seen from above the total combined angle is 50 - 52 degrees.

Sadly no surface is flat or straight, so some compromises had to be made. Once I made the bent lexan I raised it 1/4" off the deck and filled the gap with black RTV. This seals and hides the mismatch of the lexan and the fiberglass.

While I worked on this my son applied all the graphics. Now the title of the thread has meaning! The race number comes from the year of the boat.

All that's left here is the 2" wide red waterline!

A short story behind the name . . 2 years ago Linda and I were Puerto Rico, sitting in a beach bar drinking some rum drink, on the wall behind us was this flag, in red black and white . . we both looked at it w/o saying anything, and then looked at each other and said: Time Files . . that's the name for the boat!
http://www.piratesplunder.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=product.display&Product_ID=5

It stuck, and the artwork for the skull and cross bones is a spin on the original done by my Mom who is an artist and painter.

I'll post pics tomorrow in the AM.

Mario L.

Mario L.

Where were you in Puerto Rico?
I lived there for a little over 2 1/2 years , and will be going there to visit in Sept.
Thank you
Jim

[mphatc]

Jim,
we were on te west coast near Rincon, The bar was just south of there near a small harbor, same place Taino Divers operates from. Great area to just go and relax, we have friends that live in Rincon during the winter who go there solely for the surfing.

here's some pics of yesterday's achievements . .

The uncompleted rail to mount the windshield, I left it long and will use a miter saw and trim it in place. Each side is a bit different.

Behind the teak end you can see where the nav light was mounted, I relocated these to the bow where it's always visable to another boat.


Mario L.

[mphatc]

A few more images, . . the last is shows the forward vee section of the windshield still wrapped in the protective paper, the ends have not yet been trimmed.

Mario L.

[Sweet Cheekz]

Looking good
Parnell

[dammmagnum]

Jim,
we were on te west coast near Rincon, The bar was just south of there near a small harbor, same place Taino Divers operates from. Great area to just go and relax, we have friends that live in Rincon during the winter who go there solely for the surfing.

here's some pics of yesterday's achievements . .

The uncompleted rail to mount the windshield, I left it long and will use a miter saw and trim it in place. Each side is a bit different.

Behind the teak end you can see where the nav light was mounted, I relocated these to the bow where it's always visable to another boat.


Mario L.

Hello Mario L.

I know the area, I lived south of that area in Boqueron/Cabo Rojo
There is a pretty good steak place on the water in Rincon called the Black Eagle. I have also stayed at the Rincon Beach Resort
Yes, Rincon is noted for its surfing.

The Time Flies Sport is looking great, nice job you are doing on her

Keep us posted.

Thank you
Jim

[scippy]

A few more images, . . the last is shows the forward vee section of the windshield still wrapped in the protective paper, the ends have not yet been trimmed.

Mario L.

This windshield (even when wrapped) makes the sport look sleek and racey. I think it really complete's the look of the "V" deck!......The rag or something laying over the center point of the windshield give me an idea of what a painted windscreen w/ stripe might look like.....................................Hmmmmmmmm mmmm??? not bad either!

[mphatc]

tomorrow I'll continue with the windshield . . . today I put one of my techs onto the engines, let him loose to see if he can make the old 350's live.
Last year one ran like chit, the other barely ran . .. which after sitting for 14 years and old fuel was to be expected . .

so a quick compression test told us all we needed .. . from 95 lbs to 165 lbs . . pulled the rocker covers and found many a valve loose, with huge clearances, no bent pushrods, but seized lifters was our conclusion, upon removal of the intake this was confirmed. 16 lifters later, WOW . . a 350 that runs and idles like a new one!! No need for a compression test, I'll run it this way and see . . they only need to last through the summer til the new 383s go in.

10 lifters in one engine partially seized in a compressed state that wouldn't pump up . .

engine number two was much better, . . so a few gaskets and 8 hours labor and 32 lifters it ought get on plane!!

Mario L.

[mphatc]

A bit late, but an update . . .

a Labor day w/e of excitement!!

We finally launched the boat on the best Magnum day of the year!!

Winnipesaukee was running white frothy 5-6 footers on the SE end where I launch. We spent the past two weeks getting as much power and life out of the ole 350s . . and both now run strong! No skips, no misses, just a bit on the rich side.

I have to admit, 5-6 footers, 35 knot winds, no one with a tow boat close by, and a boat that has only been in the water 5 hours in the past 14 years left me a bit nervous . .

My nerves quickly relaxed after the first 3 waves and as soon as the boat was on plane . . . WOW, everything anyone ever said about the Magnum 27 hull is true . . . it wasn't long before we were running at 4000 rpm and smiling!

I went and met my wife on our island. I need to share that Linda no longer rides in the Donzi Corsican, at 18' and water like this common on Winni the small boat gave her no security or comfort. I had some trepidation about taking her out in this weather, but she wanted to go!

Long story short, 15 miles later she was still smiling and asking for more speed! My boating life is not over! PHEWW!!! YEE HAAA!

Well, not so fast Mario . . . I went out later with a friend who has helped me extensively on this boat, of course two guys and a boat, big waves and wind, we run harder than I had yet experienced. 40 -50% air time, and the boat flies like they say, I'm lovin it! . . . then 5 miles out we land and the port engine revs to the sky, the boat starts to spin, I yank her back and rip the throttles back, the port engien is stalled, I keep the boat moving forward with the stbd engine at 1500 RPM, while I restart the port engine, only to find that I have no propulsion . . just a grinding noise from behind the engine . . Phil quickly checks the bilge, all is dry, and we slowly motor back.

At the launch the next day I find the upper section of the port drive grinding like marbles, and the stbd lower semi bound up. better for it to happen now, the boat comes all apart in the next few months, two new engines, and now some custom Volvo drives . . .

I'll add pics from work, I don't have a good connection from home, but here are some pics of the weekend. On this post pics of the boat , on the next, pics of the christening . . . and an unexpected move by my wife!


Question, should the number stay or should I remove it, alter it . . ?
Should it be longer, and include a an "M"or a "P" ?


I will be adding a tapered red stripe along the water line.

Mario L.

[Sweet Cheekz]

More motivation for me Sounds fun and happy for the wife
Parnell

[mphatc]

some jpgs of the weekend . . .

[scippy]

Look's great Mario!.............."If the old lady's happy even better!

[Conquistador_del_mar]

some jpgs of the weekend . . .

Isn't it great looking down that bow deck as you drive? Bill

[dammmagnum]

some jpgs of the weekend . . .

Hello Mario

It looking really good
Great

Thank you
Jim

[Greg Guimond]

My .02 .......keep the # but make it a bit smaller and add the "M-". Then loose the "bottle". Cool project, did not realize how high up you sit in that Mag model.

[HallJ]

Mario,

Did you run the Solas props?

Jeff

[mphatc]

No, . . .
The hubs are too long for my shafts, so I had to run with the old style Nibral props, very surprised how well they actually ran!!

Need to check with Big Grizzly on the prop fit . . . thanks for reminding me!

Mario

[HallJ]

How much shorter are they? I had to use half height lock nuts to make mine work.

Jeff

[dammmagnum]

Jim,
we were on te west coast near Rincon, The bar was just south of there near a small harbor, same place Taino Divers operates from. Great area to just go and relax, we have friends that live in Rincon during the winter who go there solely for the surfing.

here's some pics of yesterday's achievements . .

The uncompleted rail to mount the windshield, I left it long and will use a miter saw and trim it in place. Each side is a bit different.

Behind the teak end you can see where the nav light was mounted, I relocated these to the bow where it's always visable to another boat.


Mario L.



Hello Mario

Greeatings from Rincon, Puerto Rico
Was there yesterday and today in Cabo Rojo PR.
Hope all is well there with you

Enjoy
Thank you
Jim

[mphatc]

It's been a while . . spending too much time shopping for a new house and some time on the water in the Donzi . . what's that??? :wink:
So the boat is all apart now, the 350 Chevy engines have moved onto a new home in another Magnum, my two destroyed Volvo drives are off the boat, and I acquired two low hour Volvo 280 drives with trim . . .nose cones and all parts and accessories.
These will be completely refreshed and some re-engineering done to make them bullet proof. This may result in some custom pieces that will be marketed to Volvo owners . . more on this later!
The new engines are being balanced and machine work completed before Christmas. We're expecting 480-500 HP from each.
I've chosen to raise the drives 2". With close measurements I can do this w/o chopping up the engine hatch. I'll cut the hatch and crown it as presently it is flat and the rear deck has a slight crown. This will gain me an inch, and hollowing out the hatch another 3/4" and I had 1 1/2" of space. I need to keep the hatch pad to keep the period look.
The Vee windshield has been bent and made, mounting is semi complete.
I'll post some pictures Tuesday evening.
I have a few questions in a new thread in case someone needs to search for an answer in the future . . . Resins, Epoxy, Polyester, Repairs and Lamination. I'll post this in Performance Talk.
Mario L.

[scippy]

Mario,
The new power should give you a nice throttle up on speed.........are they 383's?.............When raising the X, shoot some pics of the process, it be cool to see!

[mphatc]

Some long overdue pics . . ..
the past 2 weekends were spent on the inner transom, the vee windshield, and modifying the cutouts for the Volvos.

The engines are in process, Scippy, these will be 2 383 cu in Chevies, AFR heads coated internally and externally by DART, Forged cranks and H beam rods, Dart blocks, MSD ignition, J&E pistons, and custom roller cams. We're epecting just short of 500 HP . . But until this portion is completed they'll wait at the machine shop . .

Building the windshield, it's more than I ever thought . . . all the angles! To secure it to the deck I chose teak, it's flexible, easily formed and once installed maintenance free. Well, almost . .

Below are few pictures of it in process. The forward Vee is one piece, the sides separate. I'll finish the edges once it's all installed.

Mario L.

[mphatc]

Raising the drives . . .
here's pics of how I made the lay out

2" straight up. I made a template of the existing holes, and then masked off the existing center lines, then placed another stripe of tape 2" higher.
These engines / drives were set at 15" off centerline. What I haven't figured out is the tilt motors. With the drives raised there's no room with out chopping up the deck. For now I'll plug the holes and figure this out later.

I cut the higher openings with a sawzall, the lower section gets rebuilt after the inner transom wood is replaced.

There's also a couple pics of the inner transom after I removed the lower wood. Tapering the replacement plywood to match will be the challenge.

Mario L.

[MDonziM]

Mario,

Sounds like an exciting winter ahead! Just wondering, do you know what the X Dim is now or what you're aiming for? Im looking to swap out my TRS's for bravos this winter and think I remember seeing that 16 1/2" is best for bravos, not sure about volvos.

Marshall

[Sweet Cheekz]

Mario Looking great

Good luck feathering in that wood!


Parnell

[scippy]

Mario, That's a tough one on the wood insert for the transom!......I would measure a piece to fit (width and length) then take the angle and trace that to the edge of the new insert , remove everything down to the line with a grinder. It should fit like a carbon copy match. epoxy and be done with it..................Something about a 27 sport and a "Vee" windshield look's real cool!
.................................................. ....................................Nice job!

[mphatc]

Matching the shape won't be to bad. The existing plywood will get some more grinding to bring all the laminate lines straight and parallel, and this should help to match each 3/4" thick piece individually.
Epoxy . . yes absolutely . . .

And I'll be clamping the Volvo drives on with inner aluminum plates that match the outside shape . .

All I need to define is how many more through transom fittings are installed below the water line . . tabs . . the Bennetts I want to remove and replace with something better bigger . .

Mario L.

[mphatc]

Transom wood . . . .
Scippy you were right . . matching this up was a bear . . . :eek::nilly:
it took almost a day to make each piece of plywood fit the tapered edge . . 2 days . . wonder if I could have replaced the entire transom in that time? I doubt it . . . .
now I'm filling in all the holes on the outside that I won't reuse, each hole is being ground open enlarged to make a nice solid patch. Old tabs, trim indicators . . I've raised the cutouts 2' for the Volvos . . .
Then it's on to the inside to finish all the glass work and refinish the engine compartment . .
This was / is the standard gray . . I did the Donzi with Bilgecoat . . and don't like it much, needed to apply so many coats to get a solid color . . what other solutions are out there? I'd like something that really cleans easily . . like spray on soap and rinse off?
I also acquired a set of K Planes, 30" long . . . .I think I'll restrict the flow to these make them a bit less responsive:wink:
Mario

[superhatz]

Here ya go Mario...too lazy to post this on OSO.

I stole this pic from Mark....tabs look pretty long on this one.

:drinkbeer:

[mphatc]

Thanks Aaron, I'll figure out how long these are by measureing my transom height and comparing . .

As I see it, I can always shorten and powdercoat them

Mario

[scippy]

Mario,

Are you taking the transom wood down to the drain plug?...........This area was the most saturated on my boat and will laminate all glass there.

[mphatc]

No, I stopped 5" above the bottom of the vee inside, that will be a solid 2 1/2" of glass . . chrome plated brass NPT threaded plug . . $13.00 on Ebay

Mario

[HIGH LIFE]

Mario, I replaced the wood windshield mounting trim with Starboard this year, looks better in white. "HIGH LIFE"

[scippy]

No, I stopped 5" above the bottom of the vee inside, that will be a solid 2 1/2" of glass . . chrome plated brass NPT threaded plug . . $13.00 on Ebay

Mario

Is that the garboard 1/2" NPT drain plug??........I'd like to get one of them that's why I ask.......Also, what type of tube (if any) do you use to make it through the 2-1/2" of glass??

[mphatc]

Scippy,

no tube, solid glass, drill the hole, seal the hole with a couple coats of resin, seal the NPT plug piece with 5200 . .

Mario

[scippy]

Scippy,

no tube, solid glass, drill the hole, seal the hole with a couple coats of resin, seal the NPT plug piece with 5200 . .

Mario

Mario,

Which one would be better.........SS -or- chrome plated brass drain plug?.....I'm looking at both....."Garboard 1/2" nipple with a 2" OD".

[mphatc]

good question . . for me it's really all about getting it to seal, from my own experience the brass plugs always seal w/o any additional aid like telflon tape . . softer metal . . and I chose the chrome plate as it's over brass and the chrome is likely real thin on the threads . . . ?

Mario

[mphatc]

Time for an update and more questions . .
This poor boat was buried in tons of snow . . .and I haven't had much time to work on it . .so I've spent my time collecting parts . .

The aluminum Edelbrock intakes have been coated inside and out , same with the AFR Cylinder heads, so I can run all this stuff in salt water and not worry about corrosion. I've selected SS Marine exhaust and risers, Canton Road Race 7 qt pans, MSD Ignition, Latham Steering . .and new gauges . . .

The hull is now at the point where the next move is to cut the transom for the Volvo drives . . . This is all been layed out and the next thing is the drill and the saw .. BUT I am getting cold feet and a bit concerned. Raising the Volvo drives 2" is not like a Bravo where I can buy a spacer to make up for a mistake . . and lower the prop shaft.

Dirty Pearl wrote in another thread:
"I was told, you want the bullet or nose 3-3 1/2 in below the bottom of the boat. That's how I set mine up."

That was with TRX drives, does the same thing apply to a Volvo?


New to this boat are two 280 drives with nose cones from a Cigarette 28. Props are two Solas SS 23 P L & R , trim tabs are K-Planes . . .


Can anyone here really give me a reason to not do this, or give me assurance that others have done this on a Magnum 27. There are pics on this thread and pics of Dictator's transom . . I need this to be correct . .

Mario L.

[smidgen too]

Time for an update and more questions . .
This poor boat was buried in tons of snow . . .and I haven't had much time to work on it . .so I've spent my time collecting parts . .

The aluminum Edelbrock intakes have been coated inside and out , same with the AFR Cylinder heads, so I can run all this stuff in salt water and not worry about corrosion. I've selected SS Marine exhaust and risers, Canton Road Race 7 qt pans, MSD Ignition, Latham Steering . .and new gauges . . .

The hull is now at the point where the next move is to cut the transom for the Volvo drives . . . This is all been layed out and the next thing is the drill and the saw .. BUT I am getting cold feet and a bit concerned. Raising the Volvo drives 2" is not like a Bravo where I can buy a spacer to make up for a mistake . . and lower the prop shaft.

Dirty Pearl wrote in another thread:
"I was told, you want the bullet or nose 3-3 1/2 in below the bottom of the boat. That's how I set mine up."

That was with TRX drives, does the same thing apply to a Volvo?


New to this boat are two 280 drives with nose cones from a Cigarette 28. Props are two Solas SS 23 P L & R , trim tabs are K-Planes . . .


Can anyone here really give me a reason to not do this, or give me assurance that others have done this on a Magnum 27. There are pics on this thread and pics of Dictator's transom . . I need this to be correct . .

Mario L.
Mario, Jeff raised his Volvo drives on his sport, at least 2" I believe per Roger Munn [ex Magnum racers] advice. I have a friend that raised them 5" on a 28' Bertram Baron that he raced with great results. There are spacers for Volvo drives as I used a set on a 26' Cary we raised up. Give Jeff [HallJ] a pm he has done a lot of research on this. Mark h2o

[dammmagnum]

Mario, Jeff raised his Volvo drives on his sport, at least 2" I believe per Roger Munn [ex Magnum racers] advice. I have a friend that raised them 5" on a 28' Bertram Baron that he raced with great results. There are spacers for Volvo drives as I used a set on a 26' Cary we raised up. Give Jeff [HallJ] a pm he has done a lot of research on this. Mark h2o

Mario - Mark

Roger and I raised my Volvo 270 drives 2 inches on my 73 Sport when I had it, along with removing the hull hook and adding the drive power trim set up off of Roger's Jolly Roger Sport. It worked great for me.
I also got the bigger vertial shafts, along with output shafts to run the Merc clever props from Roger.
I would do it again in a heart beat if I had a Volvo Sport. I also had the 280 K-planes in it.
There are a lot of parts out there for Volvos, just harder to find them now.

If it will help, give Roger a call at his shop in Ft Meyers Fla . Roger will talk to you on what to do
He has done a bunch of them over the years and knows how to make a Magnum run.

Thank you
jim

[HallJ]

Mario,

Here is a Mag that Roger did about ten years ago. These are up three inches. Compare to my boat when they were stock(purple one). Roger thinks you could go up to the rub rail without any problems.

With big diameter Solas props and power trim, I would agree.

The drives have merc splined output shafts with Mirages.

Still running great today! Powered by 400 small blocks.

Set your purse down, pick up the Sawzall, and get to cuttin' :)

Jeff

[HallJ]

Time for an update and more questions . .
This poor boat was buried in tons of snow . . .and I haven't had much time to work on it . .so I've spent my time collecting parts . .

The aluminum Edelbrock intakes have been coated inside and out , same with the AFR Cylinder heads, so I can run all this stuff in salt water and not worry about corrosion. I've selected SS Marine exhaust and risers, Canton Road Race 7 qt pans, MSD Ignition, Latham Steering . .and new gauges . . .

The hull is now at the point where the next move is to cut the transom for the Volvo drives . . . This is all been layed out and the next thing is the drill and the saw .. BUT I am getting cold feet and a bit concerned. Raising the Volvo drives 2" is not like a Bravo where I can buy a spacer to make up for a mistake . . and lower the prop shaft.

Dirty Pearl wrote in another thread:
"I was told, you want the bullet or nose 3-3 1/2 in below the bottom of the boat. That's how I set mine up."

That was with TRX drives, does the same thing apply to a Volvo?


New to this boat are two 280 drives with nose cones from a Cigarette 28. Props are two Solas SS 23 P L & R , trim tabs are K-Planes . . .


Can anyone here really give me a reason to not do this, or give me assurance that others have done this on a Magnum 27. There are pics on this thread and pics of Dictator's transom . . I need this to be correct . .

Mario L.

Are your drives from a Cigarette that was in Ohio?

Jeff

[mphatc]

This is positively reinforcing and assuring me!!! AWESOME PICS Jeff!!!

I'm good . . . psyched to cut glass!!! Hoping this all fits under my flush hatch . . .

Beers on me!!

Mario

[HallJ]

This is positively reinforcing and assuring me!!! AWESOME PICS Jeff!!!

I'm good . . . psyched to cut glass!!! Hoping this all fits under my flush hatch . . .

Beers on me!!

Mario

No Worries. It took a bit to cut mine up as well.
I used a 1" thick steel block to guide the drill bit to keep the hole perpendicular to the transom. 17/32 was the final hole size.
Also, it won't fit under your flat hatch. You'll have to put some humps where the flame arrestors are. The pad will still sit on there though.

I could e-mail you pics tomorrow.

Jeff

[Conquistador_del_mar]

The hull is now at the point where the next move is to cut the transom for the Volvo drives . . . This is all been layed out and the next thing is the drill and the saw .. BUT I am getting cold feet and a bit concerned. Raising the Volvo drives 2" is not like a Bravo where I can buy a spacer to make up for a mistake . . and lower the prop shaft.

Dirty Pearl wrote in another thread:
"I was told, you want the bullet or nose 3-3 1/2 in below the bottom of the boat. That's how I set mine up."

That was with TRX drives, does the same thing apply to a Volvo?


New to this boat are two 280 drives with nose cones from a Cigarette 28. Props are two Solas SS 23 P L & R , trim tabs are K-Planes . . .


Can anyone here really give me a reason to not do this, or give me assurance that others have done this on a Magnum 27. There are pics on this thread and pics of Dictator's transom . . I need this to be correct . .

Mario L.

Mario,
Just some thoughts here. I would think that one parameter that might not be comparable between TRS, Bravo, or Volvo drives in terms of setting the drive heights might be how far back the props are located. When trimmed out, there could be some differences in how high they can be set for maximum speeds. Another fairly large difference would be using 3 or 4 blade props - 4 or more blade props will bite much better if the drives are set high. There was a boat at LOTO that could not get on plane after the drives were set too high. If you are planning to use the water intakes on the drives instead of external pickups, I understand this can also be a concern. Since it appears you are going for speed, you will undoubtedly want to get a set of E drives at some point to get another 7-10MPH. This will necessitate external water pickups. When I installed a Bravo drive on my Eliminator which had the 280T originally, I called quite a few people for advice on setting the x. I don't think I could get it on plane if it had been set any higher than I did, and I am running a 4 blade prop. I could measure how far the center of the bullet is from the bottom of the hull when it is parallel if you want. Bill

[HallJ]

Mario,
Just some thoughts here. I would think that one parameter that might not be comparable between TRS, Bravo, or Volvo drives in terms of setting the drive heights might be how far back the props are located. When trimmed out, there could be some differences in how high they can be set for maximum speeds. Another fairly large difference would be using 3 or 4 blade props - 4 or more blade props will bite much better if the drives are set high. There was a boat at LOTO that could not get on plane after the drives were set too high. If you are planning to use the water intakes on the drives instead of external pickups, I understand this can also be a concern. Since it appears you are going for speed, you will undoubtedly want to get a set of E drives at some point to get another 7-10MPH. This will necessitate external water pickups. When I installed a Bravo drive on my Eliminator which had the 280T originally, I called quite a few people for advice on setting the x. I don't think I could get it on plane if it had been set any higher than I did, and I am running a 4 blade prop. I could measure how far the center of the bullet is from the bottom of the hull when it is parallel if you want. Bill

E-drives are another inch shorter that the 280's. I think this also contributes to the bolt-on speed increase.

Jeff

[Conquistador_del_mar]

E-drives are another inch shorter that the 280's. I think this also contributes to the bolt-on speed increase.

Jeff

Jeff,
Are you saying the bullets are 1" higher on the E drives? I could measure all the differences if anyone wants to know. Bill

[HallJ]

Jeff,
Are you saying the bullets are 1" higher on the E drives? I could measure all the differences if anyone wants to know. Bill


The E-drive is 27mm (1.06") shorter.

Jeff

[Conquistador_del_mar]

The E-drive is 27mm (1.06") shorter.

Jeff

Jeff,
Very good dimensional diagrams! The only thing they don't give are the different hub diameters which are massively different. I would think the difference in the hub diameter plays more of a role in their hydrodynamic advantage than the hub depth, but both add to their efficiency. My friend went from 76 to 93MPH in the Eliminator Daytona that I now have with only changing the lower units and props using the same engine. I realize this is an unusual gain. Bill

[HallJ]

Jeff,
Very good dimensional diagrams! The only thing they don't give are the different hub diameters which are massively different. I would think the difference in the hub diameter plays more of a role in their hydrodynamic advantage than the hub depth, but both add to their efficiency. My friend went from 76 to 93MPH in the Eliminator Daytona that I now have with only changing the lower units and props using the same engine. I realize this is an unusual gain. Bill

If only I could get my hands on a couple in good condition!

Jeff

[dammmagnum]

Mario,

Here is a Mag that Roger did about ten years ago. These are up three inches. Compare to my boat when they were stock(purple one). Roger thinks you could go up to the rub rail without any problems.

With big diameter Solas props and power trim, I would agree.

The drives have merc splined output shafts with Mirages.

Still running great today! Powered by 400 small blocks.

Set your purse down, pick up the Sawzall, and get to cuttin' :)

Jeff

Hello Jeff,

Now its been a really long time since i saw the trim set up on my 73 Sport,
I believe that the trim arms were cast that I got from Roger,not the flat steel type in the photos. I am not sure if Roger made them or had made them or he may have gotten them from some of the guys in Mich. Mark(H2o) may know if they were making power trim parts for the Volvos back then. The set up I got was right off of Roger's Jolly Roger Sport afte he converted to the MDS speedos. The output shafts were also resplined for the Merc Clever props

thank you
Jim

[dammmagnum]

If only I could get my hands on a couple in good condition!

Jeff

Jeff,

Way back when,, i was talking to the Volvo guys based in I think it was Chesapeake Virginia about the E-drives and Hi performance parts, they had told me that Holman and Moody in Charlotte, NC had a huge warehouse of E-drives and high performance parts. Wonder what may still be back in some of the old warehouses/barns they have from then

Worth a call to them

Thank you
jim

[HallJ]

Jim,

Does this jog your memory?

Jeff

[dammmagnum]

Jim,

Does this jog your memory?

Jeff

Jeff,

I am still thinking more of a cast part, I'll have to go back and see what photos I may have from back then. Everything looks the same accept for the trim arms. I even think there are some markings in casting

I have 1000s of 35 mm slides and photos from the old racing days in the 70s and 80s
I really need to scan them all. before they waste away.

Thank you
Jim

[smidgen too]

Jim did the trim look like this, dont mind the broken e-drive.:boggled: This set up used the cast Merc outboard brackets. This is Kenny Blacks Lil Rhino Mag.:hyper:

[dammmagnum]

Jim did the trim look like this, dont mind the broken e-drive.:boggled: This set up used the cast Merc outboard brackets. This is Kenny Blacks Lil Rhino Mag.:hyper:

Mark,

Hard for me to tell, but I do remember bring told they were Merc O/B trim rams used,

we are talking back in 1977 or 78, my old mind is fading.

Thank you
Jim

[mphatc]

Wow, I go away for 2 hours and everybody's writing . . .

I've limited myself to 2", from my calcs this allows everything to stay under my stock flat hatch.

No E Drives for me! I've seen a few of these E-drives, what a delicate design, barely any lubricant at the bottom gear set, minimal bearing capacity, would be fun if this was a lake boat . . .but I like to catch some air . . . and this boat will be used to run out to Long Island, go from NH to Provincetown or the Cape, or down east to Portland and points east . . I want reliability, stabilty and then speed . .

Several years ago while restoring the Corsican I had a conversation with Holman and Moody They had info on cam grinds for LH rotation engines, but had none of the unique H&M parts anymore. From the story at the time much of their history and old inventory was lost in a fire? and then after years of battling city hall had to move as eminent domain finally forced them out of the old facility . .

Bill, you bring up a very valid point on prop location . . . I factored this in when I built the Corsican with a Bravo, it used to have a Volvo 250. I raised my x 1" from Merc's design, and the boat doesn't jump out of the water like it did with the Volvo, but high speed stability feels improved. Low speed docking is harder and idle straight line is a PIA.

My boat will retain water pick ups on the bottom . . simple bronze intakes, Unless someone here can confirm that they are huge drag and a killer on efficiency. Easy holes for me to close off right now.

Merc Trim rams from the 70's for outboards were installed vertically, and were shorter than the picture showing the rams.They also had a ridge that ran down the main body . . .

Jeff, Thanks for the pics with the measurements . .if that's 3 inches up, I'll be close to that going up 2" . . .possibly mine were installed higher originally?
I'm comfortable now, and ready to cut some glass!!

Many thanks to all of you . . . doing this stuff with the support and experince of those who were in the game back in the day means a lot. We're all close in age, growing up my family was strictly into sailing and so I was blow boater back then . . . climbing masts, hanging in trapezes, and surfing down waves . . but wishing I was in a Magnum! It's taken me all these years!

I hope to meet all of you some day!

Mario

[MDonziM]

Mario,

Here is a Mag that Roger did about ten years ago. These are up three inches. Compare to my boat when they were stock(purple one). Roger thinks you could go up to the rub rail without any problems.

With big diameter Solas props and power trim, I would agree.

The drives have merc splined output shafts with Mirages.

Still running great today! Powered by 400 small blocks.

Set your purse down, pick up the Sawzall, and get to cuttin' :)

Jeff

Jeff,

How far below the bottom of the hull do you think your prop shafts are? Curious, the time is nearing for me to cut my transom for bravos. I'm thinking of a 17" x-dim which would make the prop shaft 4 13/16 below the bottom.(from drive shaft to propshaft is 21 13/16 on a bravo)

Thanks - Marshall

[scippy]

Great banter here with alot of knowledge going back and forth....... has anybody heard from Parnell lately?

[HallJ]

Jeff,

How far below the bottom of the hull do you think your prop shafts are? Curious, the time is nearing for me to cut my transom for bravos. I'm thinking of a 17" x-dim which would make the prop shaft 4 13/16 below the bottom.(from drive shaft to propshaft is 21 13/16 on a bravo)

Thanks - Marshall

Marshall,

You need to set them at the same height that Aaron has his.
His runs perfect!

Jeff

[mphatc]

Made the cuts !!! Yee ha! Gotta love the shakey feeling of a Sawzall . .

The inside of the transom only has 1/8" thick glass in the virgin area, That's likely why Volvo's pull the nuts and washers into the glass and fracture it, not good as it opens a water leak path .. my rebuild will be thicker and I'll likely make an inner transom plate of 1/2" thick aluminum.

My measurements bring the top of my drives a bit lower than this picture by about an inch.
http://www.donzi.net/forums/showthread.php?t=62144&page=6
Using the diagram Jeff posted my prop shafts are 5 3/8" below the bottom of the hull . .


Pictures soon . . .

Mario L.

[MDonziM]

Sounds good Mario, cant wait to see pics.

- Marshall

[mphatc]

Time Flies . .I guess we chose the right name for the boat . .it's been 14 months since I updated this thread . . progress on the boat has been slow, but is now picking up.

The transom is long complete, the entire engine compartment was refreshed using the Sherwin Williams paint. This stuff is awesome, so much nicer than Bilgecoat, easy application, tough and single coat coverage.

I'm presently in the midst of rewiring, new instruments, converting to full power steering, adding new trim pumps for the drives, and K-planes.

The engines are finally complete! This sadly turned into a process as the man who has done all my engine work for the past 12 years suddenly passed away at 52 years old last September. He was a brilliant guy with a lot on his plate, and memory. May he rest in peace.

I had my Volvo 280 drives completely rebuilt, and each one has been set up to spin a specific direction . . as we'll be putting more power through them . somewhere between 475-500 Hp. The shop that did this work for me is in southern New Jersey, old school marine machinist very familiar with Volvo drives, and also a Donzi 18 and Magnum 27 owner!

For wiring I chose new harnesses from Mar-lan Industries, http://www.marlanindustries.com/.

Of course any build I undertake never goes to plan . . so the last hurdle for me was identifying exhaust . I looked at every option in the book, SS, Aluminum, American made, Austrailian etc. My issue was my center to center spacing of the engines . . recall from earlier I raised my engines and drives 2". What I never did consider was that the original set used cast steel manifolds and that ANY header required more space bewteen the engines. My engines were too close together or I had to find a manufacturer willing to produce a set of headers to fit. Lightning in CA produces some good stuff, but to tall unless I chopped up my hatch. Ultimately CMI has come through with the headers made narrow to fit . .and with long enough risers for the cams, yet still allowing me to run my GBB mufflers inside.


Below are some pics of the engines taken this past weekend, I'll update this thread a bit more often with pics. There's also a side image of the new windshield, not yet completed. . . Almost all the pieces are there, I just need to find the time.

7163371634716357163671637


Mario L.

1968 Magnum 27
1969 Corsican

[scippy]

Mario,

Those (Dart) engines look great!................sorry to hear about your guy though.
Not to bad of a compromise (mods to the headers) considering you raised the X
and still have the orignal hatch in use.........I love the profile of the low slung V
windscreen.....you don't see to many today.
Where in south jersey is your Volvo guy?.......can't hurt to know if a donzi and
magnum guy might be in your own backyard.............Good luck and nice work!

[dammmagnum]

Hello Mario

Sorry to hear about your engine guy ,, life is way too short and we lose too many good people, family and friends
Your engines look super,
Are you doing any special coating on the Aluminum heads for saltwater, or are you going freshwater cooled?

Keep up the great work
Have a nice weekend
Jim

[scippy]

Jim how are you?........are you stepping up your hunt for the big brother of "Plum Crazy" yet?

[mphatc]

Jim,

All the aluminum parts have been given the full treatment program by DART Coatings, including combustion chambers and valves. Coolant jackets internally, the outside of the parts with their anti-corrision treatment. I did this with the AFR heads on the Donzi and after 7 years they still look as new. The only aluminum not being coated will be the valve covers, they will be painted.

No freshwater cooling, crankshaft driven pumps with pressure relief valves . . I'm a strong believer in less stuff and the KISS formula.

Mario L.

[dammmagnum]

[ QUOTE=$originalposter]{$pagetext}[/QUOTE]

Hello Mario,

Hope you are having a nice Memorial Day weekend


Okay about the coating, sounds like a nice set up.

I understand what you mean about keeping it simple,
years ago when We were playing with Nascar tour type Modifiy Stock Cars, we had a engine builder that wanted to try the latest and trickest stuff and we always out tricked ourselves from racing..

KISS,, keep it simple and run every week

The Engines look super,,
Have a great Holiday

Thank you
Jim

[dammmagnum]

[ QUOTE=$originalposter]{$pagetext}[/QUOTE]

Hello Scippy - Pete,

Happy Memorial Day Weekend to you,
Hope things are going well down on the Jersey Shore.

I been keeping up with your super progress on your Magnum Sport, Looking really great.
and I know you are very proud of all the work you are doing , and learning a new trade

I been doing a little hunting around for a new project, looking in the 32' range as it will work its way to Puerto Rico and the Caribbean once I retired from work. I will want one with a head and some more room.

Will see, there still are a few 27 Sports floating around and may still get one.
Will be heading down to PR the end of next month to pick up a place on the west coast of PR with a private marina.

Will keep you posted,,
I was in NJ this past Feb,, didn't have a lot of time as my sister passed away while I was in The Detroit area ,, got to see and meet Mark Lil Smidgen while there.. that was great.
hope to get back to NJ later this summer and can try and stop by and see you and your Mag Sport
Keep up the great work.

Thank you
Jim

[scippy]

Jim,

Totally understand your boat preference now, especially after all the adrenaline years with the mag 27'
But retire to the carribean?... "private marina w/a cruiser sitting in wait?...."Absolutely!! You deserve it!!
Sorry about your sister's passing........Thanks for the positive comments on the 27" still long ways away.
and let me know when you come thru jersey again..........Pete

[dammmagnum]

[ QUOTE=$originalposter]{$pagetext}[/QUOTE]

Hello Pete,,

Thank you for the nice words about my sister, I was lucky to be in Mich when my brother called and just changed my flights to NJ rather then back to Calif. I had just left Mark's house when i got the call.

No Cruiser yet,, just a longer Sport boat with more cabin space then a 27 Sport. I like something that we can island hop with and get there a little faster, sort of Mini Bob the Builder trips thru the Caribbean. and could spend the night on if we had to,, also most likely old school and i can do some work on it to restore it.
The place we are looking at, is a gated community with golf , and marina , etc, most people are Snow Birds from the north east and some are a second home for the folks from PR.

Will for sure let you know when I am back in NJ. love to see your Sport, I do miss having one.

Talk soon
Thank you
Jim

[smidgen too]

[No freshwater cooling, crankshaft driven pumps with pressure relief valves . . I'm a strong believer in less stuff and the KISS formula]

Hi Mario on the engines I bought from you that came out of your Mag I installed Johson F6B-9 crank driven pumps, love them. There in the Donzi Doral I just finished & work great. Mark

[smidgen too]

[No Cruiser yet,, just a longer Sport boat with more cabin space then a 27 Sport. I like something that we can island hop with and get there a little faster, sort of Mini Bob the Builder trips thru the Caribbean. and could spend the night on if we had to,, also most likely old school and i can do some work on it to restore it]

Hi Jim, I still say a Magnum Sedan would fit your needs, after all you are dammagnum. :yes: Mark

[dammmagnum]

[ QUOTE=$originalposter]{$pagetext}[/QUOTE]

Mark ,
The thought has crossed my mind about a Sedan,, will see, I just love the looks of the Sport and the low deck sport boats. But i have not closed the door on a Magnum

Hope all is going well with you and your Sport , need some new photos

Best regards
Jim

[mphatc]

Mark,
exact same pumps I bought . . can you send or post a pic of how you set up your cooling circuit from those pumps . . are you using power steering?

I'm trying to find an affordable set up to mount the alternators down low and the PS pump on one engine at mid height . . brackets, pulleys and pumps all add up to over $1K . . yikes!

CMI just shipped my headers, flywheels are all painted and I just need to mount my oil coolers to the block and rig the front of the engines, then I can drop them in.
Complete re-wiring is in process, with all new gauges, helm mounting is all sorted, I can visualize a launch, but it is a L O N G way away . . :crossfing:


Mario

[smidgen too]

Mario I'm using a thermostat set up sold by Michigan motors. No power steering on the Donzi, maybe next year. I used this bracket for the alternator from ebay for around $19.00. Mark
http://www.ebay.com/itm/LONG-NECK-Thermostat-Housing-MerCruiser-531015-/350564103839?hash=item519f3fb69f&item=350564103839&pt=Boat_Parts_Accessories_Gear&vxp=mtr
[http://www.ebay.com/itm/390270365525?_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649&item=390270365525&viewitem=&sspagename=STRK:MEWAX:IT&vxp=mtr

[mphatc]

Thank you Mark, pictures gave me a different insight. I found a similar mount from Speedway Motors, all SS that straddles the alternator reducing the moment arm during pounding . . which has me now considering other PS Pumps . .

A few pictures of recent progress . .

While working on wiring I noticed this number on the starboard side of the control box . . don't know why I never saw it before . . is this where they wrote the hull number? To me it makes no sense, I was sold the boat as a 1968 and 169 is way to new for a vee windshield boat with Volvo 250 drives . .

The paint from SW is incredible, that bilge has only 1 coat . . and I've been in and out of it 50 times, and it wipes clean with a towel!

[smidgen too]

[While working on wiring I noticed this number on the starboard side of the control box . . don't know why I never saw it before . . is this where they wrote the hull number? To me it makes no sense, I was sold the boat as a 1968 and 169 is way to new for a vee windshield boat with Volvo 250 drives ]

Mario that is were they put the hull numbers. It maybe right. My friend picked up this vee windshield sport & it's a 1971, it was a real barn find. The vee windshield deck is just a ad on to the flat deck. Emerald City had one new in the harbor back in 1972 ???? Mark

[smidgen too]

Mario your Mag is coming along very NICE!!! Your drives look about where mine are. Mark

[Mr Vinyl]

Mario send me your HIN # from the back of transom and I can verify correct #'s. 179 would have meant the 179th Magnum built which would make yours a early 1972 or late 1971. Bud

[scippy]

Bud,

Mario's sport pre-dates a stamped hull ID ...........169 is the only number he has found to date

[mphatc]

Thank you Scippy.

The boat has seats from hull #71 and was sold in Boston Bud, What color was 169 originally? There was red gel coat on the transom. The deck appears to have been white originally.

First owner was George Butler of Butler Aviation and Butler Chevrolet in Ma. I have not had any luck locating him or his son as of yet

[olredalert]

----Mario,,,There is a Butler Aviation in south Florida, Pompano Beach area, I think. I have a very good friend who almost married into the family. Could be the same family.......Bill S

[mphatc]

June and now it's October, summer was fun, but I need the shop space so this project is now mainstreamed!

The engines now have valve covers that clear the CMI headers, accessory drives are multi rib belts.

Pictures in the AM.

Mario

[Just Say N20]

The engines now have valve covers that clear the CMI headers, accessory drives are multi rib belts.


Isn't that awesome that you have to play games when using CMI headers to get valve covers that fit? I had to order spacers to get the clearance I wanted so I could use low profile Edlebrock Aluminum ribbed valve covers.

[mphatc]

Bill,

As my engines are 29" a part, center to center, no manufacturers headers would fit between them. Only CMI was able to build me headers that were narrow enough. My SBCs use aluminum roller rockers and required large covers, even stock covers interfered.

This is all my own fault, I raised the engines and drives 2", on the original spacing, but never considered this interferance.

Pictures in my next post.

Mario

[Just Say N20]

I stand corrected.

I only have one engine, no interference issues with other engines, and my valve cover/header clearance required spacers. I thought this is what you were talking about. :redface:

[mphatc]

Bill,

No worries . .
My Ford set up needed similar plates , but mostly to accomodate the bolt pattern.

Below are some pictures of recent work and challenges on Time Flies . .

Mario

[Just Say N20]

Holy Cow! :eek:

I will keep my mouth shut. I thought I had a tough header situation. You win that in spades! :eek:

Your alternator mount uses the same location as the new one I got, although yours looks much more refined.

Where are you going to mount the stabilizing arm for the crank mounted water pump? Mine was mounted in the location now used by the alternator. There is so little space in the engine compartment of a 16, that I made a bracket that mounts under the L-Lounge seat.

[scippy]

Mario,........No challenge undaunting!!........What did the engines Dyno at?

[mphatc]

Haven't gotten that far yet, my engine dyno shop wants to run them on the wet CMI headers. We want to be certain I 'll have no reversion issues.

my expectation is 475 hp

Mario

[mphatc]

[ QUOTE=$originalposter]{$pagetext}[/QUOTE]

Bill,

I'm not liking your control bracket from the boat to the engine, sorry . . . :garfield:

Your deck and cockpit floor will flex, your engine will move regardless of the mounts . . . this bracket needs to come off the engine block in some way . . sorry, I know access is difficult . .but a broken water pump will be worse!

Mario

[Just Say N20]

Interesting. My tub is mounted to the stringers with 3/8" angle aluminum. I didn't really think the hull would flex that much. I figured they would be a solid unit, but you could be right.

That arm "floats" a little on the mount point on a rubber donut. If you come up with a good solution, I would love to hear it. My pump needs to face 180 degrees opposite of how yours is shown, with the water inlet facing the port side.

[Just Say N20]

Do you think this is better?

1/4" aluminum bar, 10" overall length.

[mphatc]

Time for an update..

Lots of progress over the past few months. Much to my wife's dismay I have been spending 1 1/2 days of each weekend on my personal projects, so the Magnum is now known as my hore. :-)

The engines are at the Dyno shop this week, likely done as I write this, as I am in the Abacos spending time with my wife......

All new wiring has been installed, the engines have been installed once to work out rigging changes, fabricate 6" extensions for the CMI headers, only as protection so that I won't have to worry about reversion. I will still have spece to install my GBB mufflers inside. The drives are installed, so I can now lay out the power steering.

I raised the forward edge of the instrument cluster to improve visibility, had my compass restored.... Relocated my deck stantions so they are equally spaced.

On a side note, we are on this short vacation in the Bahamas because I found this resort, really low key, relaxed owned by a great couple. He owns a Pantera 27 and offered to take us out in the waves, teach Linda throttling and give her comfort running big water.
Check it out at www.lubberslanding.com, come out have some drinks and let Austin scare the crap out you in some big water!

Mario

[seabuddy]

What engines are you using?

[dsparis]

We've spent alot of time over at the Bluff House on Green Turtle. Nothing like cracked conch on the beach in January.

[mphatc]

What engines are you using?

Two all new 377 cu in SBC. Dart blocks, all Eagle forged lower w H beam rods, j&e pistons, AFR heads, custom grind Comp Cams.
See post #104 of this thread

Mario

[seabuddy]

wow and thanks.

[seabuddy]

do you have the name or specs or part number for ... "the entire engine compartment was refreshed using the Sherwin Williams paint"?

[MDonziM]

Mario,

I'm jealous, the bahamas must be great now. Looked thru that sight and only caught a couple glimpses of the Pantera. (28' btw) Funny they have a kiteboarding school there ( Best , named for founder Shannon Best) that a good friend of mine started with him. What's the power in the Pantera? When you are done lounging around having fun in the sun, post some pics of the progress on the Mag, love to see some.

- Marshall

[mphatc]

The Pantera has twin 377cu in EFI Mercruisers. This boAt feels like a Magnum loads of fun in big water!!!
Had the joy of driving it!
Back to the reality of life tomorrow, vacation is over :-(

[mphatc]

Just got off the phone with my dyno shop that ran and tuned both of my new engines . .

465 HP and 475 ft Lbs torque all the way to 6000 RPM! really pleased with the results . . now I can continue with the final rigging

I'll scan my dyno sheets and post them.

Mario

[MDonziM]

That sounds really good, lets see some pics.

- M

[scippy]

Just what your Magnum deserves "930 HP and tons of torque!!

[mphatc]

Torque is practically flat from 3000 to 6000 which I have chosen as my rev limit. I'll have Hale Propellors in CT set up my props...

Anyone want to give Me some idea how fast this thing is going to be??

Side note I hope none of you get this nasty flu!

[mphatc]

Friends, I desire some input . . .

My engines are done with dyno testing and I am now ready to get a bunch of parts anodized . . . where as most everything on this boat is "period" and the look of the boat is supposed to be more vintage . . what should I do with the parts that are bare aluminum . . .

There will be blue and red hose fittings . . the aluminum intakes are silver, the CMI headers are the satin finish . . the boat will be black with a white deck and the wood insert will be restored eliminating the present red striping on the deck . . . and I will stay with the candy stripe interior, even if I lower my floor and install bolsters . .

So I have numerous brackets and the large rocker covers . . .

Below I added previously posted images . .the middle is the engine in my Donzi Corsican . . in hindsight I'm happy that the rocker covers on this did not go to the brighter blue, as the aluminum did not accept dye.

Thoughts please!
Thank you,
Mario

[Ghost]

I think it is bada$$ as it is. I'd anodize most or all of it without changing the color, keep the natural look of the metal.

[Conquistador_del_mar]

Mario,
I think a black and silver engine theme would look great. If they were mine I would clear coat what you showed with Imron or an equivalent. We all know how bare aluminum looks after getting wet a few times - :garfield:. Bill

[MDonziM]

Mario,

+1 on Bill's suggestion to clear, I think that looks good if it holds and will cut down on polishing.

- Marshall

[scippy]

Mario......would you have handy a template for the "V" windshield you fabricated?

[mphatc]

so clear anodizing it will be . . thank you!


Scippy,
I'm happy to share all that I can .. . I'll make a template and either send you pics or post them here of the saga this windshield became . . . .;)

Mario

[mphatc]

Finally some progress! After a short vacation in January boating in the Bahamas, (read about this in another forum) I came down with the flu, spent another w/e shoveling 28" of snow, and then a foot ailment, which had me wondering if this boat would ever get done . . !

Today we installed the drives . . I finally got to see where my cavitation plate and prop shafts are to the bottom.
Then looked at installation of the hydraulic rams for the power steering. I have two sets and options . .
One is an IMCO older style set and the other is a newer Latham Marine set. Stroke length is a bit different, the IMCO giveme about 1 1/2" more stroke . . allowing for full drive swing . . I prefer the IMCO set . . and am uncertain as to how much I would miss theloss of steering angle at the limit . . this would be docking manuvers only. I'd venture that using the twin engines for docking will be much easier than the increased steering?

Tomorrow, interior hydraulics .. design mods to the tie rod assembly to accept the steering rams . .

Mario

[scippy]

Mario,
Glad your back on your feet & feeling much better....helluv a week in NE!!
Time Flies is looking really sharp .....recipe 377's and a 2" raised X should
give you outstanding performance.......Are your K plane mounted @ 24*
any interferance w/bolting through on the inside?

[mphatc]

Scippy,

I'll take some pics of the inside bolting of te K-Planes. They are at the 24* mounted 7/8" aove the running surface.

Will also get the template of the windshield .. . I'll make this full scale and mail it to you . . Please send me your mailing address at Mario@VSR1.com

off to work on th boat :rlol::rlol::wavey:

[MDonziM]

Mario - Rigging looks nice! I don't think 1" of throw would be that big a deal with twins. Just make sure your cav plates are clear of those longer tabs, mine come pretty close. The Latham mounting piece looks sturdier than the other.


Pete - Look at the eng compartment pic in my resto thread first post, it shows how the old k-planes mount hole straddle the outboard stringer.


- Marshall

[smidgen too]

Mario I like the look of your drives. :beer:

[smidgen too]

Any thoughts on what size & make props you will run. Do your drives have the Volvo 17 Tooth prop splines?

[mphatc]

I'll start with the last pair of Solas prop that Big Grizzly had . . 24P and see where I'll end up. Ultimately the boat will go down to Hale Propellors in CT for them to prop it . . they did all the work on Geo's X18 . . . . .

After reviewing the steering, I've elected to go with the Latham rams, and keep the drives a bit further away from the tabs . .

Mario

[mphatc]

There is real merit the old saying measure twice cut once, it also applies to drilling holes!
I spent the entire day laying out the transom power steering hydraulic rams, measuring everything atleast three times..... Thank goodness I did that because the Latham rams are way too short, I would've had about 5° of steering.

So I will be using the older Imco rams. These are only 3 inches longer in overall length, but it makes all the difference.
Even this way the props and K planes never come close together.
Now onto doing the internal hydraulics, 2 trim pumps for the drives behind the rear seat, and in front of the engines, 2 K plane pumps on the engine bulkhead.
I couldn't possibly imagine putting two big block engines into this engine compartment... as it is with my small blocks and the CMI headers I'll have no access to anything.

I'm closely watching all of you who are modifying floors and seats, I can already see that when I lower the floor to gain interior height somehow the rear seat assembly will need to be easily removable.

Mario

[mphatc]

Engines and exhaust . .. yesterday with the help of my son we placed both engines in the boat . . just to check some fitments and I'm adding to the CMI tails . . a bit more protection against reversion . . .

In the process I finally got to see how much of the hatch I'll need to modify . . recall I desire to keep my original candy striped hatch pad . . . it will be very close . . looks like my biggest obstacle is the MSD distributor . . . . . to tall . . I need to see if the MSD Crab Cap is available for this model distributor.

progress is a lot slower than I want, as I only get 1/2 of a day per week for this . . .

Mario

[Conquistador_del_mar]

Mario, it all looks great! Do you think drive showers would help?

[Just Say N20]

Bill, I have never heard of Volvos needing drive showers.

Mario, Did you do all the modifications to the valve covers to get enough clearance for the CMI exhaust?

[mphatc]

Bill,
No plans at this time for drive showers, if I do choose to run some thing like the Around Long Island race, certainly this would be an addition. I will be running Redline synthetic gear oils.

Just Say N20,
Recall that these headers were a custom build from CMI, my engines are on a 29" center to center spacing, and there was no standard fitment that would work. Once I received the headers I found that there was not a single rocker cover that would fit over my roller rockers and fit under the headers . . . so I bought the cheapest fabbed aluminum rocker covers on ebay . . and modified them . . .

Some day I'll do a project without any modifications . . . . . :confused::rolleyes:

Mario

[Conquistador_del_mar]

Bill,
No plans at this time for drive showers, if I do choose to run some thing like the Around Long Island race, certainly this would be an addition. I will be running Redline synthetic gear oils.

Mario

I actually thought about drive showers since you already have the top mounts that would easily accomodate them, and I was thinking you raised the x a little - maybe not? Redline synthetic is about as good as it gets! Bill

[olredalert]

----Geez,,,What fun would that be, Mario???........Bill S

[smidgen too]

Nice !!!!!

[MDonziM]

Mario,

The engines look great so far. I'm suprised the dist. is your max height... what kind of flame arrestors do you plan on? I have a set of 3" x 10" ss that are in new condition that didn't fit under my hatch if you're interested. Also, I didn't see a carb spacer, are they there?

The around LI would be a lot of fun with a group of our older boats. The also offer just the 100 mi leg from port washington to orient point.

- Marshall

[mphatc]

Distributor is at the highest point because it is the rear where the deck slopes down.

the headers and the carbs with flame arrestors will barely fit under the hatch, after I crown the flat hatch and scallop out the core . . . .

No carb spacers, we tuned the engines this way. My Donzi is set up the same way, never an issue with that in 10 years.

Mario

[Ghost]

That's one great looking enging compartment.

(Went through repower and questions of fit recently myself--there was more slope than I would have thought, just as you describe with the distributor clearance being closest.)

[smidgen too]

This is how my Mag looked when I bought it after they raised the engines 3", not the way to do it. Once my new engines are in will see if I need to change the hatch like Jeff H did with a small raised section on each side, so I can have a flat sun pad on the hatch. My new engines don't have the tall GM HEI ignition like it had, I went with a stock Merc set up that's not as tall.

[Damm-magnum]

Distributor is at the highest point because it is the rear where the deck slopes down.

the headers and the carbs with flame arrestors will barely fit under the hatch, after I crown the flat hatch and scallop out the core . . . .

No carb spacers, we tuned the engines this way. My Donzi is set up the same way, never an issue with that in 10 years.

Mario


Mario,

Really looking good, Nice work on the entire engine and drive set up
Very nice.
Jim

[mphatc]

To all of you . . .

Thank you for the kind words and compliments, it means a lot coming from a group that has been doing this stuff for years.

Mario

[mphatc]

Another month gone, time for a progress report.

Engine were installed, and I added 4" to each CMI Header, mitred pieces to align with my mufflers. This was done to add some protection against reversion.

Power steering lines are all made, and ready for installation, and my brackets for the outboard ram connections to the Volvo drives have been completed.

Pictures tomorrow. I'm at the assembly stage with many components ready to install. Really looking forward to a productive day.

Mario

[MOP]

Mario she be looooking good!!! No need for a shower on a Volvo they circulate the oil pretty fast bottom to top, I had a buddy that ran 6000 regularly never had a drive issue in a lot of years. The Volvo's do not run hot and can spin higher RPM's that most all others with reliability

[mphatc]

I thought I'd post this link here for the Magnum owners .. some nice pics

http://www.powerboatnation.com/content/298-bam-marine-legacy-experience.html

I've sent BAM and email asking for more pictures from their archive as there is nothing on their websites . .

Mario L.

[mphatc]

Well here we are it is the middle to the end of September and I can't believe the summer is over..
My business and family commitments kept me extremely busy and there was very slow progress on my boat. Until recently!
When I last posted I was working on details of rigging the engines hydraulic K planes and the power trim etc..

I now have the boat completely assembled the engines are installed all wired up we have tested all the hydraulics and have only the power steering system to fill and bleed.
With any luck tomorrow we will fire the engines up in the boat for the first time,
They've been run on the dyno and we've not really made changes since then.

Standard MSD distributors were too tall and I needed to buy new ignition distributors. MSD manufacturers what they call a crab top distributor which has a low profile to fit underneath a supercharger and this was the solution.

Unfortunately I have not taken as many pictures as I usually do because I've been so focused on just getting the work done. I do have some pictures and will post them as soon as I have time.
The present plan is to have all things sorted out and launch the middle of next week.
I only hope that after that I will have at least a couple of weekends to go boating before gets too freaking cold up here in New Hampshire.....



Mario L.

[mphatc]

I'll post a few pics w/o any text, it all pretty much self explanatory . . but ask questions should you be curious!

[yeller]

Looks great! Love the custom valve covers....that's a pretty big bite taken out of them.

[scippy]

Mario........The top end satin finish with the heads, covers and pipes give those 377's the best & cleanest "all business" look i've seen yet.
You built an awesome pair of engines!.............Would you have a bigger picture specifically over looking the engine bulkhead towards the
engine bay?.........curious to how all the trim pumps and fuel separator & shutoff are mounted to that bulkhead of the rear seat.......Also,
look's as if you reinforced the opposite side of the engine bay bulkhead with that center upright gusset?...............really sharp!

[mphatc]

I'll take more pictures today . .

My K-Plane pumps are mounted outboard on the bulkhead, the drive trim pumps are infront of the engines. I mounted these on synthetic board so any water run off will not get the steel pump bases wet, this should keep them from rusting for a few years.

The fuel pumps and separators are mounted on a double thick 3/4 plywood laminated plywood reinforcement that really stiffened up that flimsy factory bulkhead. My white paint stops at the pumps as this winters project is to lower the entire cockpit floor . . . but I've hired a fiberglass pro for this . . :eek::yes: . . .

Mario L.

[Conquistador_del_mar]

Mario,
You are doing some fabulous work there. I look forward to seeing the Magnum completed and hearing how it performs.

[mphatc]

One of my goals on this project was to have all the service items easily accessible. If you look closely you can see oil drain suction hoses by the the oil filters. Placing all the service items at the front should make life easier for me, though it does make for an ugly bulkhead.
On this project I placed functionality ahead of beauty.
Spent this morning installing the silicone hoses on the headers with mufflers to the tailpipes. With the added pipes to the inner tube of the headers this is not an easy project and my technician did two of them.
The amount of details....., I can tell you it is a heck of a lot easier to build a racecar than it is to build one of these!

[scippy]

You have both functionality and beauty, so I wouldn't worry any...........l have seen a few magnums (Mark & Bud) where they have cut away
that particular bulkhead in addition to hinging the top bench seat so it will fold foward for better access to the engines......your's is like mine
even though I thought about removing it at one time, I think it's critical to the hullsides plus where would you mount all that stuff?
Lowering the full cockpit sole is going to be the real finishing touch on the boat........you can get her 4" lower with no problems (structurely
and floor space wise) any lower the floor space deminishes drasticly, plus how much can you sacrifice of the keel stringer before it's really
unsafe....post up pics when you start.

[johnnywhale]

Raw water cooling?
Or is there a hidden heat exchanger?
I thought you were a salt water guy - or at least in the LI Sound once in a while?

Johnny

[MDonziM]

Mario - You're in the home stretch! It looks really great. How does your rear seat setup work, is there another bulkhead? - Marshall

[mphatc]

Johnny,
Fresh water cooling, no hidden HX, and I will run the boat in salt water . . it has a aluminum heads and intakes that have been fully coated with Dart Coating processes . . . I''ll rinse after every use and will be adding the salt neutalization process developed by Volvo.
All the aluminum parts have either been anodized or clear coated, every fastener is new SS.

Marshall,
Rear seat is stock, sets over the top of the existing bulkhead to form the hatches front recess.

here's a couple more pics after yesterdays work

77623776247762577626

Mario L.
ex Donzi Corsican owner

[Conquistador_del_mar]

I always liked the clean wiring look that the crab distributors make.

[smidgen too]

Mario are you planning to run a thermostat in your engine blocks ?? I have a similar set up in my Mag & use a 145 deg marine thermostat with two 3/16 hole drilled in the face for continuous flow & has worked well this past summer. Mark

[johnnywhale]

Johnny,
Fresh water cooling, no hidden HX, and I will run the boat in salt water . . it has a aluminum heads and intakes that have been fully coated with Dart Coating processes . . . I''ll rinse after every use and will be adding the salt neutalization process developed by Volvo.
All the aluminum parts have either been anodized or clear coated, every fastener is new SS.



I had AFR do the hard anodizing on mine, but I was still leery of salt. It coated non machined surfaces inside and out, including water jackets. I think the Dart process looks nicer.

http://i225.photobucket.com/albums/dd220/johnnywhale/Donzi/IMG_0862.jpg (http://s225.photobucket.com/user/johnnywhale/media/Donzi/IMG_0862.jpg.html)

[mphatc]

yes I have thermostats installed, not drilled presently, but plan on adding cooling system pressure relief valves, my last experience with the crankshaft driven pumps is that they do produce a high pressure at speed, and that engine temps will not reach operating range . .

as to the Dart Coatings . . my Corsican saw salt water numerous times and was always washed and rinsed after each day . .I saw no corrosion or deterioration during my ownership. I have a friend in the Bahamas who runs a Pantera 28 with twin SBC, he has had his heads off after 5-6 years of year round use in salt water and during this time consistently used the Volvo salt water neutralizer, his boat is lifted out of the water after every days use . .
he runs this system:
http://www.marinepartsexpress.com/prodbull/NS_engine_flushing_kit.pdf

Today I modified my engine hatch to clear my carbs and provide additional clearance for the exhaust . . installed 4 new trailer tires . . . 4 fuel lines, a filling drives andf the power steering is what's left . . .
. . . unless some thing intervenes . . . I'm going boating this week!!

Mario L.

[Greg Guimond]

I ran across what I think is A Magnum 27 Sport today. Grabbed a quick pic so you guys could check it out. Looked to be in excellent shape.

[mphatc]

No pictures today guys my iPhone battery is almost dead.
Just a quick report it's the second day on the water with Time Flies!!
Boat runs absolutely fantastic absolutely no issues after a couple quick small things during shakedown yesterday Unfortunately I'm on Winnipesaukee which is speed limited and it's a busy weekend 75° not a cloud in sight.
The fall day doesn't get much better than this, With the solus props that I have on GPS at 3700 RPM I'm running 57 mph.
It's an amazing feeling as you gradually bring up the throttles and the secondaries open up in the boat jumps ahead!!!
I'm very much looking forward to a very windy all day when Winnipesaukee gets rock 'n and rolling !!!

Mario L.

[mphatc]

Six weeks have passed, I had one more day in the boat . . .and business, family and fall along with cold weather ended this season.
We ran a total of 20 hours, 150 gallons of fuel . . . no real issues, no leaks, and got enough time to know what needs to be done before next summer. With my son in the boat we ran a solid 67 mph on GPS in absolute flat water at only 4400 RPM. This was w/o trimming the drives, tabs up . . . . I did run 4600 rpm with Linda chasing a 300 HP bass boat who was trimmed out with a rooster tail and he couldn't get away, but didn't have my iPhone gps on . . . which is likely good, as that 70 mph threashold isn't something Linda needs to see . . :smash: She was smiling and loving it, and at the same speed in the Corsican she was screaming for me to knock it off!

Attached are a few pics of where I finished up with the boat this fall.
Image 1 excuse the hoses on the steering, we made these quickly and locally to run this year . .
Image 4 note the fuel pressure gauge needle . . WTF, Aeromotive gage, broke 20 minutes into use!
I need to find proper plugs / caps for the riser water inlet fittings , vs the double hose clamps with plastic plugs . . who makes something for this?



Mario

[mphatc]

Here's some of the boat on the trailer . . . not certain how I feel about the windshield . . . need some opinions!!!
The center is taller than the outside corners . . . . . not certain why I did this . . is it correct? or shall I lower the center to match the corners?
This is also made from 3/8" thick lexan, so it's not super strong as it's all flat surfaces . . will it look like crap if I trim it like a Donzi 22 windshield in polished SS, or just leave it alone?
The corners have SS outer reinforcements, shall I make these black?

I desire to add a red stripe . . . possibly delete the drinking skull . . ? should the red stripe be original double or a single wide stripe or a single tapered and narrower at the front?

The red and white striped swim pad is going back on the hatch . . after I build blisters to cover the flame arrestors . . . I will remove padding from the pad to keep it laying flat over the arrestors . . . I don't want scoops.

input please!

[mphatc]

here's a few of the pics I've been requested to post . . . those of you who asked, enjoy!

The boat has 4 trim pumps, 2 for the tabs mounted outboard of the stringers
2 for the drives mounted on the floor below the rear seat

batteries of which there are two are under the seats and out to the sides

Power steering high pressure filter is on bulkhead
two electric fuel pumps, filters and fuel pressure regulators are on a center support added to the bulkhead and under / behind the rear seat.

Water intake for the engines is in the original 1968 location, on the bottom . . how much drag are these? each is the size of 1/2 a fist?

Oil Coolers are on brackets off the motor mounts to the outside starboard and port.
Oil temp is controlled by thermostats in the blocks between the filters and the mount.

water pumps are crankshaft mounted . . . I may add water pressure relief valves to the cooling system.
presently the water pump inlet hoses collapse while running from the oil coolers to the water pumps . . I think the coolers have too much restriction??? Thoughts appreciated please!

[scippy]

Mario.
My opinion is I think you need height in the center fold of the windshield.......lowering the center point to meet the corners
would run counter to the already high life line.............if anything I would lower the life line stanchions to be more uniform
of the sleeker windscreen.................. our "V" deck is kinda unique, but remember the original windshield was aleast 5"
taller and matched the height of the original lifeline.........Also, leave the brackets un-painted & don't frame the windshield.

I sent you a PM concerning your thoughts about removing the high arched bulkhead back of ther benchseat (better access
engine bay) but after looking at all the available mounting space it provides it's likely I will keep it........have you altered
your benchseat in anyway that allows you better access to the engines?
In my case, the benchseat is still original (one complete unit that was glassed to that arched bulkhead and bolted port & stb.
of the deck) what's your install like?

I just lowered the cockpit sole by 4" and it worked out great, but i'm limited to flexabilities of fuel line size........what type
and size have you used?........................I still have to design a windscreen!.........Your sport looks great!.

[olredalert]

----Just one thought on the windshield at this point, Mario. Think about putting a formed stainless piece over the center bend, as if the two sides of the front are two different pieces. Then run a piece from the top to the dash on the backside for a bit of extra strength. The outer stainless connecters need a center to balance things, and a black hulled Magnum needs a bit of bling. Astheticly, the center should be taller than the corners.
----I dont know weather you need an original style double bootstripe (red of course) or possibly one wide red bootstripe on the bottom and a white pinstripe above. One things for sure...the boat really needs some sort of bootstripe.
----Im ambivalent about your skull. I like the design but would mention that stuff relating to alcohol on the hull of a boat draws the cops to you like a magnet.......Bill S

[Conquistador_del_mar]

Mario,
A red bootstripe tapering to a point at the bow would be my choice. I think "Time Flies" by itself looks great - shake the skull. I know these Magnums came with tall lifelines, but I think it would look much better to not have the lifeline any taller than the windscreen. I like the windscreen the way it is. Have you thought about bunking the trailer instead of using the rollers? Your engine installations look exceptional. Bill

[Greg Guimond]

My .02 ..........

I would drop the lifeline to windshield height and add some type of additional tie in for the line itself that terminates into the fiberglass right below the plastic windscreen itself. This would carry the visual line of sight further stretching the deck and also serve to lower the windshield height to the observer. I would delete the skull and if you want move a smaller version to the transom area. I would go with a single red boot stripe. Looking great!

[olredalert]

----Believe it or not but a red bootstripe by itself will visually get lost on a black hull. The addition of a white half-inch pinstripe above a red bootstripe brings the red out of hiding. Tapering the red stripe towards the bow might be the ticket too......Bill S

[BUIZILLA]

leave the windshield as-is

lower the lifeline 2 to 2 1/2", no more than that, the middle one seems a tad higher, make them all the same height

remove the name and drunk pirate completely, and see how it looks

without a boot stripe it would then look longer and sleeker and more proportional

I would NOT do a red boot, maybe a slightly thinner white boot with a 3/8" red accent stripe, at the very most, you have a white bottom and deck with a little red on the deck, so a bold red boot is out of contrast with the main black and white theme

subtle is sexy, bold is brash

[Morgan's Cloud]

Pretty much what Jim said.

After reading your concern about the windscreen I was visualizing something much higher than what I ended up seeing upon viewing the pics. It's not bad at all really IMO.
I think yours is about the same vintage as our 25 and the original windscreen on that had a horribly high peak in the centre . Not no more ! ! And it looks like you might have altered the dimensions of yours too .

Besides Jim's suggestions I'd change out the registration numbers on the bow for white .

But in the end . it's your boat :kingme:

edit to add : And one very cool boat at that !

[superhatz]

I like the windscreen and lifeline. I'd 'lose' the name all together and add a boot stripe....just my opinion.

[Rob M]

Nice boat Mario!

My 2 cents...


Lifeline level to the windshield.
No skull or name on hull side
Red boot stripe, tapered to the bow - underscored with white pinstripe
Name and skull much smaller (understated) on the stern

[MDonziM]

Mario - The sport looks great. As for opinions, I like the factory double boot stripe from the 70's in white, possibly with 1/4" red pinstripes. I agree that a red strip would get somewhat lost on the black topsides. I personally do not like a tapered stripe as much as the original style.( single or double) I like the height of my lifeline which is original. I can measure if you like but I attached 2 pics to see. Your first stantion looks very close to the bow... mine must be at least 2' further aft. I also had a tough time finding a good shop to do a windshield. Mine has a slight lip in the corners where they bend the material which I just live with. I think yours looks fine and would leave as is.

[Ghost]

Black hullside with white bottom looks great.

Adding a white stripe spaced an inch or two above the chine looks great, and may be the original style. http://www.magnummarine.com/images/legendary/005%201972%20Brochure%20Magnum%2027.jpg

Black with just a red stripe, following the chine? That can't lose either. Seems like there was a pretty famous boat like that...

[mphatc]

Thank you all for the thoughts and input . . you all have me thinking . .

Marshall, awesome pics of the Starfire . . I like the forward stantion much further back . . and the back end attached to the rise under the windshield, adds to make the boat look longer.

My stantions at the front and the back seem to be in the original locations . . . judging from the under side of the deck. I did relocate the forward anchor point behind my bow running light. I removed the two on the sides of the coaming as they can't be seen by an oncoming boat. I did trim them approximately 2" after removing the original vee windshield . .

I agree, the skull and crossbones go, likely even the name, it's too big to be there alone.... I'm over the race replica look I had planned . . . with a large number and other graphics . . . just wish there was space on the transom for a name . . .

Tape and photoshop experiments coming.

Need to stay on it, something to shorten the winter!

Mario

[Greg Guimond]

Keep it going. Simple is certainly classic ..................

[DirtyPearl]

I think your on the right track. I love the old school look. I think you need a boot stripe to finish her off. The only other thing I might do is lower the walk line slightly. I think it would look more racey. Still a really cool boat! Trying to do something similar with my Maltese.

[scippy]

DP...............That is a sharp looking Magnum!!!

[mphatc]

Dirty Pearl... Your boat looks cool just sitting on the trailer . . low and fast . . a bit intimidating with those polished drives . .really like the stripes on yours, are they about an inch wide?

Greg, thank you for the photo shop . . . . . now I'm all mixed up . . I need to pull some decals and play with stripes . .simple tape exercises . . .

I'm not worried about the skull and rum bottle, left the cops stop me, I don't drink while at the helm . . or before boating! we also have the matching flag for the stern and a teak flag pole for the original mount
http://www.amazon.com/Pirate-Flag-Flies-Youre-Having/dp/B000VR6GNW

Morgan, is your boat the bright green vee windshield? It's that boat's lower windshield that inspired me to keep the fee, vs removing the whole deck section and making this into Sport.

I'll play with this on Saturday , unless it's freezing cold . . and hopefully post some more pics

thank you all, the input, thoughts and time are much appreciated!

Mario

[smidgen too]

Mario it looks like you dont have a anchor locker on the deck, moving the last taller life line stantion further forward giving it that different look, but not necessarily a bad look. Rob [Iron head on OSO] who has the ANACONDA sport also has this early vee windshield 1972 sport, & is restoring her just just the way it is [same name] for that 70's look. Robs mag originally belonged to a Chiropractor hence the SUBLUXATOR name. I feel doing a free style restoration [with names & graphics] that makes YOU HAPPY is all that matters, have your way & enjoy your classic Magnum. :beer: Mark

[mphatc]

Today I had a marine survey done on Time Flies. Always an interesting process to go through, and always educational..
I needed to have this done so that Hagerty would insure the boat.
There are a few changes that I need to make, all of them good, fortunately all of them minor.
One of the comments was that all my water hoses to my crankshaft driven pumps are supposed to have two clamps at each connection. Same with my exhaust hose connections. The barbed hose fittings all the water connections are actually not long enough to accommodate two hose clamps side-by-side.

What does everybody else do here? All of my hose clamps are all stainless steel, and brand-new. The clamps on the 4 inch silicone exhaust hose are T-bolt.

Seriously looking forward to some warmer weather, getting the boat out of the storage facility starting to get to work on it!

[MDonziM]

I have 2 ea on all my exaust, and check all others regularly sine like you said many unions won't fit 2. I wish they made the t-bolt type small enough, they seem much stronger.

[smidgen too]

Today I had a marine survey done on Time Flies. Always an interesting process to go through, and always educational..
I needed to have this done so that Hagerty would insure the boat.
There are a few changes that I need to make, all of them good, fortunately all of them minor.
One of the comments was that all my water hoses to my crankshaft driven pumps are supposed to have two clamps at each connection. Same with my exhaust hose connections. The barbed hose fittings all the water connections are actually not long enough to accommodate two hose clamps side-by-side.

What does everybody else do here? All of my hose clamps are all stainless steel, and brand-new. The clamps on the 4 inch silicone exhaust hose are T-bolt.

Seriously looking forward to some warmer weather, getting the boat out of the storage facility starting to get to work on it!

Double clamps on exhaust makes sense but Two hose clamps on everything is news to me. Here are a few new engines from the manufacturers with only one clamp ???

[scippy]

Mario,

Recieved the windscreen template today........Tomorrow I'll roll it out and take a look.....Thanks so much for sending it!............Scippy

[johnnywhale]

I have 2 ea on all my exaust, and check all others regularly sine like you said many unions won't fit 2. I wish they made the t-bolt type small enough, they seem much stronger.

I was able to find t-bolt clamps for all of my water hoses from either McMaster, and I got the small ones from chassisshop (?) in Michigan. Down to about 1" in diameter

[mphatc]

Have a elected to go exactly that way, and will replace all the critical hose clamps with T-bolt clamps.
In the process I will also need to address what I'm doing for piping on the inlet side my water pump, as when I am running at speed these houses literally collapse after the oil cooler before the inlet of the pump!
I haven't seen any effect on water temperature in the boat continues to flow adequate cooling water, but it's still not comfortable situation.

[BUIZILLA]

In the process I will also need to address what I'm doing for piping on the inlet side my water pump, as when I am running at speed these houses literally collapse after the oil cooler before the inlet of the pump!
i'm not familiar with what your trying to do, BUT shouldn't / couldn't the cooler be AFTER the pump? it would seem likely that whatever slight restriction there is in the cooler that this situation arises due to it

just a thought!

[Conquistador_del_mar]

Mario, are you using wire reinforced hosing like Gates Green Stripe or similar and it is still collapsing?

[mphatc]

just catching up . .a bit late . .

I have green stripe w/o wire reinforcement . . . I like your idea Jim!, I need to figure out a way to rearrange everything, as the coolers are presently under the engines. Access with my CMI headers and 4 trim pumps, PS pump and reservoir is hard enough . . what puzzles me is that I never experienced this in the Donzi with the same pump and a similar oil cooler, and that boat my water inlet was thru the Bravo drive, on this it's the old under water bronze high drag scoop inlets . . so the pressure drop has to be across the oil cooler . . I should switch to the wire reinforced hose, and see what happens . . .

I did just order a new trailer . . Nextrail 10K rated, disc brakes, I wanted the alloy wheels, but couldn't justify the expense for something going into salt water . .

Mario

[scippy]

I did just order a new trailer . . Nextrail 10K rated, disc brakes, I wanted the alloy wheels, but couldn't justify the expense for something going into salt water . .

Mario

Mario

Tandem or triple?.........do they build it to a general fit -or- is it custom fit to the bottom?.......is it being shipped (I believe their in FL) or is there
a dealership close by?............how long before it's ready once you place the order?..........I'm looking myself!

[mphatc]

Two axles, three is a bit difficult to maneuver. My tow rig is a Toyota Tundra, and I use this to tow a 24' 10k lb enclosed car trailer. This has the same design axles, now with 32k miles on the original 6 ply tires. Maintain tire pressures for every trip, service wheel bearings with a high quality synthetic grease annually, you'll have no issues.

Custom built, it should be all adjusted at delivery. When I spoke to them he immediately knew what the Magnum 27 is. Delivery is 2-3 weeks. They are in Tampa.
Fwiw, I shopped every manufacturer, Chose Nextrail because of price, reputation, all aluminum construction, SS fasteners. Many of the "aluminum" trailers use galvanized steel cross members.... Comes with forward Vee guides, and he explained to me how you can't get the boat on the trailer crooked .... Even in current or crosswinds.

[MDonziM]

You'll be happy with the Nextrail, they do a good job. All you should need to do is make adjustments for fit and tongue weight.

[mphatc]

My Nextrail arrived last night! Nice looking unit, looking forward to fitting the boat . . after the next round of rain and cold weather moves though.

Mario L.