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JamesT
05-16-2010, 01:02 PM
I need some help.I have a 22zx with a 350 merc MPI. I recently put a new drive on it over the winter.It has not been ran since last summer.Yesterday i put it in the water and firerd it up,it was missing a little so i threw it in netural and reved it up a few times.It was smoking a blueish white colored smoke.So i opened the hatch and the top of my motor was covered in a light brown oil water mixed goo.I couldn't see where it was coming from,so i just shut her off and put it back on the trailer.We had a couple hard frezze's last winter.Do you think it might have blown a head gasket,cracked the head or the block.Or is there any thing i could have done wrong when i installed the drive that would cause it to do this??Any help on this situation would be greatly appreciated.

Cuda
05-16-2010, 03:03 PM
The brown goo you see is emulsified oil. Where do you live? Did it get cold enough to crack the block or the heads?

JamesT
05-16-2010, 03:52 PM
Yea i figured thats what the goo was.I live in northern south carolina so yes it does get pretty cold we had some hard freeze's this year.Im no mechanic but i have decent general knowledge in wrenching.If i tear the heads off,do you think i would be able to see the crack with the naked eye?

MOP
05-16-2010, 05:33 PM
Don't take anything apart just yet!!!!!

One of the best ways when you can not see any leakage is to pressurize the block, you need to drain it out then cap off the hoses to the manifold and cap off the lower circulater pump hose try for nice air tight connections. You need a constant source of 30psi air, most any compressor can be adjusted for that. Air it up and listen you should easily hear a leak, if not get a bottle of Windex and start to spray the sides of the block. If the block has cracked it is very likely the manifolds have also cracked. Go out and pull the dip stick to see what the crank case oil looks like, let us know!

Phil

DonziJon
05-16-2010, 05:50 PM
GOO..?? ..."Is this a Seminar Call"..?? I could be wrong. Dam: I'm trying to keep a Low Profile. :bonk:

McGary911
05-16-2010, 06:03 PM
Often they crack on the outside where the water jackets are. Before you start tearing things down, do a visual inspection of the water jackets. you may see a rusty spot right by......a crack.

CaribouLou
05-16-2010, 06:57 PM
change the oil. run it on the hose. if the oil gets milky again, you got problems.

JamesT
05-16-2010, 08:54 PM
Don't take anything apart just yet!!!!!

One of the best ways when you can not see any leakage is to pressurize the block, you need to drain it out then cap off the hoses to the manifold and cap off the lower circulater pump hose try for nice air tight connections. You need a constant source of 30psi air, most any compressor can be adjusted for that. Air it up and listen you should easily hear a leak, if not get a bottle of Windex and start to spray the sides of the block. If the block has cracked it is very likely the manifolds have also cracked. Go out and pull the dip stick to see what the crank case oil looks like, let us know!

Phil Whats the best way to pressurize?I mean where should i hook up the compressor's hose??And the dipstick looks the same as the stuff that was all over the top of the motor.It deffinetly has water in the oil.

Walt. H.
05-16-2010, 09:07 PM
Follow what MOP said to do to locate the problem, I take it you didn't winterize with anti-freeze mix and left raw water in your block?
Nothing you did regarding installing your new sterndrive has anything to do with your emulsified water & oil engine oil mix.

JamesT
05-16-2010, 09:45 PM
Yea i am going to do what MOP said but he never said the best way to air up the block.Do i do it like a compression test? or do i some how air it up threw one of the hoses??

Walt. H.
05-16-2010, 09:54 PM
Yea i am going to do what MOP said but he never said the best way to air up the block.Do i do it like a compression test? or do i some how air it up threw one of the hoses??
Yes' presurize it thru the cooling system hose by installing a shrader type tire valve to a plumbing cap and pump it to no more then 30-lbs, you can even use a bicycle tire pump if you don't have access to an air compressor.

JamesT
05-16-2010, 10:18 PM
I will give that a try thank you

fogducker III
05-16-2010, 10:21 PM
I think what some people have to realize is that most of "us" do not have the access to a "full blown shop and tools".........:wink:

Also the procedures for certain things might be alien to most....

It is easy to suggest things that are second nature to some........:)

mrfixxall
05-16-2010, 11:27 PM
If you don't have access to a air compressor you can do it with a garden hose...remove the hose from the sea pump that wraps around the engine ans goes to the thermostat housing, now remove the smaller hoses the some out of the thermostat housing that go the the exhaust manifolds..Now you will need to loop a hose @ the thermostat housing ports and clamp them..shove a garden hose in the sea pump hose you removed,remove the oil cap slightly turn the garden hose on (WARNING some houses have excess of 30 psi of pressure so don't over do it)and listen for water running in the engine,monitor the dipstick for rising oil level..

when thease engines freeze and crack they usually crack in the lifter valley rite below the head gasket surface, also the lower part of the intake will crack so inspect the lower part of the intake manifold real close...hopefully all you will find is a cracked oil cooler..

Good luck

fogducker III
05-16-2010, 11:43 PM
If you don't have access to a air compressor you can do it with a garden hose...remove the hose from the sea pump that wraps around the engine ans goes to the thermostat housing, now remove the smaller hoses the some out of the thermostat housing that go the the exhaust manifolds..Now you will need to loop a hose @ the thermostat housing ports and clamp them..shove a garden hose in the sea pump hose you removed,remove the oil cap slightly turn the garden hose on (WARNING some houses have excess of 30 psi of pressure so don't over do it)and listen for water running in the engine,monitor the dipstick for rising oil level..

when thease engines freeze and crack they usually crack in the lifter valley rite below the head gasket surface, also the lower part of the intake will crack so inspect the lower part of the intake manifold real close...hopefully all you will find is a cracked oil cooler..

Good luck


No wonder my ex liked you......:wink::wrench:

Cuda
05-17-2010, 06:09 AM
That pressurizing sounds like more work than pulling the heads off.

MOP
05-17-2010, 08:35 AM
Do what Mr Fix said with the garden hose, if the water rises don't bother with any wrench work just pull it and replace it. Also have the oil cooler checked it probably followed suit! Once they crack inside they are junk! Save the accessories and move on!

MOP
05-17-2010, 08:48 AM
That pressurizing sounds like more work than pulling the heads off.

Joe what would you expect to see pulling the heads, I have never seen a bore crack or the top of the block only the sides and valley and very rarely the heads. You might spot something in the valley why waste the effort and time.

JamesT
05-17-2010, 07:58 PM
The emulisafied oil/water is so thick i can't suck it out.I have even tried an electric pump meant for sucking sludge and oil and it just keeps colapsing the hose.Since i can't get the oil/water out of the motor what should i do?Should i go ahead and pressure check it with a compressor?Or what? I really appreciate all the info and help so far guys.I just need a little more insight on this situation...Thanks


James

JamesT
05-17-2010, 10:08 PM
Well i went ahead and pressure checked it.When i pressurized it,it got up to around 20psi and blew the front seal right out of the motor.So i called it a night.What do you guys think,should i just go ahead and pull the motor??

mrfixxall
05-17-2010, 11:42 PM
The emulisafied oil/water is so thick i can't suck it out.I have even tried an electric pump meant for sucking sludge and oil and it just keeps colapsing the hose.Since i can't get the oil/water out of the motor what should i do?Should i go ahead and pressure check it with a compressor?Or what? I really appreciate all the info and help so far guys.I just need a little more insight on this situation...Thanks


James


once the water and oil mix and hits the crankshaft it whips it into a white lithium Greece..once the oil is hot enough it turns back into a liquid and you can suck it out but it probably damaged the bearings already.. look at the oil cooler if theirs one and see if the end is starting to blow out...

Obviously theirs a problem with the water entering the block from somewhere so i would stop all diagnoses and pull it.. If your curious what happened the start by pulling the intake and look for cracks in the lifter valley..

JamesT
05-18-2010, 07:39 AM
Thanks Mr.Fixx Do you guys know a good place to start looking for a new motor??

VetteLT193
05-18-2010, 08:09 AM
seems like lots of deals right now but not so much for MPI stuff. I do see lots of Merc reman MPI stuff on ebay but it isn't the cheapest.

Phil S
05-18-2010, 08:24 AM
James -

I was wondering if you winterized it, or maybe paid someone to winterize it for you. I also live in "northern South Carolina". There's a marine shop in Spartanburg that I highly recommend. There's one in Greenville I have heard horror stories about. Sorry to hear about your motor...hopefully it can be repaired.

With kind regards,
Phil S

mrfixxall
05-18-2010, 09:07 AM
Thanks Mr.Fixx Do you guys know a good place to start looking for a new motor??


Eagle is the main source i use,good prices and never had any issues with any of their producy..Then get their engines rite from GM..
http://www.eagleenginesales.com/
michigan motor's is another one,but they get their engines from eagle:bonk:
http://www.michiganmotorz.com/

BTW go new NOT Reman..

JamesT
05-18-2010, 10:23 AM
James -

I was wondering if you winterized it, or maybe paid someone to winterize it for you. I also live in "northern South Carolina". There's a marine shop in Spartanburg that I highly recommend. There's one in Greenville I have heard horror stories about. Sorry to hear about your motor...hopefully it can be repaired.

With kind regards,
Phil S

Well im origanly from Florida so ive never had to winterize.When i bought the boat from Ohio they told me just to trim it down and let the water run out and i would'nt have any problems.Obviously they didn't know what the F**K they where talking about and this will be a lesson learned.I try to do most work on it myself but when i do take it some where i go to foothills marine in greenville.Whats the place in spartanburg you know of?

Phil S
05-18-2010, 10:46 AM
I'll try and say this nicely, but from the horror stories I've heard, and from my own personal experience, I won't go to Foothills.

T and T Boatwrench is the one in Spartanburg that I do recommend. Talk with Daniel. They are a small shop on Highway 9, just north of Spartanburg. A friend of mine has had good success with Strickland Marine in Seneca, but I don't have personal experience with them.

Keep us posted....
Phil S

cutwater
05-18-2010, 11:00 AM
Well im origanly from Florida so ive never had to winterize.When i bought the boat from Ohio they told me just to trim it down and let the water run out and i would'nt have any problems.Obviously they didn't know what the F**K they where talking about and this will be a lesson learned.I try to do most work on it myself but when i do take it some where i go to foothills marine in greenville.Whats the place in spartanburg you know of?

Just trimming the drive down won't work on an I/O. At minimum, you should trim the drive down AND pull all of the block and exhaust freeze plugs. Use the search feature on the forum for "winterization" and you will find some helpful comments on how to take care of your new engine next winter :thumbsup:

JamesT
05-18-2010, 11:04 AM
Well i never had foothills do anything hard or complacated,so maybe thats why i have'nt had any problems.I heard some real bad stuff about searay.I would really rather work on my own stuff.I just can't see why i should pay someone $100 an hour for something im capable of doing myself.But if i take it somewhere next time ill give the guys in spartanburg a shot.

JamesT
05-18-2010, 11:07 AM
Just trimming the drive down won't work on an I/O. At minimum, you should trim the drive down AND pull all of the block and exhaust freeze plugs. Use the search feature on the forum for "winterization" and you will find some helpful comments on how to take care of your new engine next winter :thumbsup:

You can bet i will deffenitly be doing that.

motorcity
05-18-2010, 08:30 PM
[QUOTE
http://www.michiganmotorz.com/

I have to second michiganmotorz. I'm about 20 min from them. A friend bought from them, and they are a great bunch of people, and have pretty decent prices. They have a big building full of racks of engines.

mrfixxall
05-18-2010, 08:42 PM
Here you go,you would be the first with a 6.0 in a 22zx,this should make your boat rock and the best thing about it is closed cooling,add 2 stroke oil to the fuel filter,run the engine, pull one plug to let the water drain out of the heat exchanger and you are done..

http://www.michiganmotorz.com/complete-engine-package-fuel-injection-inboards-sterndrive-p-200.html

JamesT
05-19-2010, 09:11 AM
Here you go,you would be the first with a 6.0 in a 22zx,this should make your boat rock and the best thing about it is closed cooling,add 2 stroke oil to the fuel filter,run the engine, pull one plug to let the water drain out of the heat exchanger and you are done..

http://www.michiganmotorz.com/complete-engine-package-fuel-injection-inboards-sterndrive-p-200.html

MRFixx I would love to step it up a notch,but i have an alpha drive and have broken 2 of them with a stock 350 Mag.