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penbroke
09-26-2002, 05:56 PM
Hi All,

I just went on a test ride in a '67 2+3 with a 289 Ford with a Volvo 200 drive. (the one I asked about in Donzi Boats for Sale) After riding around for a while I stopped and idled in neutral for a munite or so to talk with the owner/seller. When we tried to take off again the drive would not engage in foreward. Reverse worked fine. After several transitions from reverse to forward it engaged and was fine 'till we got to the ramp. It was stubborn several more times but always engaged. It seemed/felt like sluggish linkage or the like. The boat has not been run since last year and the owner admitted that it has done this in the past, usually after a period of non-use.

The big question: Has anyone ever had this problem? Is it a problem or just an age/lack of use thing? Is it a deal breaker? Any input would be a big help.

Thanks,
Frank

mattyboy
09-26-2002, 06:05 PM
this happened to me right after I bought it home.
I have a volvo 250 not familiar at all with the 200 but the problem was an adjustment in the cable in the drive end. what I would check would be under the drive cover there is a flange ( looks like a bowtie) disconnect the cable and move manually and see when the prop engages if it is ok then it is the cable, after long down time the cable could be froze up, also make sure there is enough grease on the moving parts on the flange and it's moving parts, did you check the oil level in the drive?
just some thoughts

matt

CDMA
09-26-2002, 06:14 PM
Yes absolutely a deal breaker...just e mail me the guys # would ya.... :D wink :D wink :D wink

Chris

Yes mom we need a 4th...

Tony
09-26-2002, 06:33 PM
My '67 16' has the original AQ200 on it and I've never had a problem in the four years I've owned it. Others will be able to help, I would think.

MOP
09-26-2002, 07:44 PM
Pull the back cover make sure that when in neutral the linkage is sqaurely in the detent. I am pretty sure its just a little out of adjustment. The adjustment to the cable or linkage is super simple, make sure you are getting full throw in both directions and hitting the detent in neautral. A worn cable can do it with a Morse shifter. There is a possibility that the spring the cone floats on is tired. Thats a pain requiring some diassembly. It is item #17 in the diagram in the link below. The diagram is a different model but almost identical. If it is the spring change do not try to stretch it to make it work, you can make a mess. http://216.37.204.206/Lakesiderestorations/Volvo_oem/Volvo.asp?Type=13&A=16&B=38

BigGrizzly
09-27-2002, 01:48 AM
There are two problems with this shifting. 1) linkege ajustment. 2) the cone clutch should lapped too on the mating surfase. No new parts are needed. Only needed to do this once on my 16 and once on the Corsican. One more thing don't use 30w oil use 75/90 gear lube spec has been changed. The shifting shouldn't hold up buying the boat

MOP
09-27-2002, 07:22 AM
If you are getting full engagement with no slipage the cone lapping can wait.

rong
09-27-2002, 09:52 AM
Big Griz, When did the spec change? I interested as I run 250's. Dealer said 30W which I run. H/M manual say 10W-30.
Hate to change as I've had little problems. I did replace one clutch cone though, as mine didn't have reverse and the spring didn't do it.

MOP
09-27-2002, 12:04 PM
The spring is there just to keep it floating and not touching either reciever cone while in neutral. The oil thing is of interest, I have not seen a bulitin on it but will ask the rep. I think I remember something being said about very low friction oils not being good for the cones. I'll see what I can find out.

mattyboy
09-27-2002, 02:26 PM
guys do a search we had this dicussion about a year ago, a memo was mentioned about using 80/90w instead of motor oil. I made the switch this year and no issues

Matt

MOP
09-27-2002, 08:34 PM
There are no issues running the heavy oil, but the rep says the drives run pretty cool and he thinks the heavy oil steals HP to the prop. Now thats something to ponder! cistineb