My new 1975 Sweet 16 basket case Project

[ealtomare]

New to the Donzi Forums, but I have used them for research in the past. This past week I got my 2nd sweet 16. The first hull I have is pretty rough, and will most likely be used for parts. The new one I picked up for $2700.00 with a karavan trailer. Has a sweet interior and the hull is in great shape. Motor and drive are out of the boat, motor is in pieces. It appears to be an original 1975 small block (Not sure if these came with chevy's in 75). Block is at the machine shop for rebuild. Also came with a perfect condition forged steel crank. Pistons and rods are junk and will be replaced. Heads are cracked and will be scrapped. The best part - It came with a Volvo Speedmaster / Shortie Drive. From what I can tell its an 270AQT. Has the shortie lower end with power trim, all looks to be in working condition. Once I get the lower end back from the machine shop, Ill be playing with heads, cam, and intake. I'm looking to get 250 - 300HP. I think the boat will move nicely, sound good, and be a head turner.

I attached pics. What do you guys think?

[MOP]

Looks like you did well for the price, good luck getting ready keep the pics coming.

Phil

[Just Say N20]

Very nice. You got quite a good deal!

I know of several who have paid much more, for much less.

Keep the pictures/progress reports coming. :yes:

[mrfixxall]

New to the Donzi Forums, but I have used them for research in the past. This past week I got my 2nd sweet 16. The first hull I have is pretty rough, and will most likely be used for parts. The new one I picked up for $2700.00 with a karavan trailer. Has a sweet interior and the hull is in great shape. Motor and drive are out of the boat, motor is in pieces. It appears to be an original 1975 small block (Not sure if these came with chevy's in 75). Block is at the machine shop for rebuild. Also came with a perfect condition forged steel crank. Pistons and rods are junk and will be replaced. Heads are cracked and will be scrapped. The best part - It came with a Volvo Speedmaster / Shortie Drive. From what I can tell its an 270AQT. Has the shortie lower end with power trim, all looks to be in working condition. Once I get the lower end back from the machine shop, Ill be playing with heads, cam, and intake. I'm looking to get 250 - 300HP. I think the boat will move nicely, sound good, and be a head turner.

I attached pics. What do you guys think?


Can you post pic's of the drive?? A little advise,if your going to replace the rods anyways get 6'' rods and the pistons to go along with it..a little bit more money but its worth it :)

[ealtomare]

What's the benefit of the shorter rods? Will I have to get a longer piston to compensate and take advantage of the cylinder length? I was looking for a motor to run 3K-5800 max RPM. Cruise around 3200. Let me know your thoughts.

[mrfixxall]

the rods are longer,make your rngine think it has a bigger cam also it stuff's more air in the cylinder..i usually zero deck the block also.doing this combo is usually good for 40 hp on a 355 sbc..

now how about that pic of the drive? :)

[ealtomare]

I'll have to snap a pic tomorrow. Its at my buddies house temporarily. I have too much stuff in my garage so I'm borrowing some space from him. It appears the drive has the wrong prop - it looks almost like a merc prop, so when I get to that point I'll be looking for some info. Any other pics you guys would like? While I'm taking them I'll get them all. I'm not too familiar with the volvo drives, but is there supposed to be an internal plate like the inner gimble housing on a merc? I didn't see that part in the pile. BTW I have papers back to 1996 when the deck was removed and the gas tank was replaced. Also - it appears the seats were ordered from Donzi. I have the original steering wheel, and the teak shift knob stil has the Donzi emblem on it, however it needs resto - its cracked.

Any guidance on the motor will be appreciated. I should know something this week on the block. If its a go - I'll have to make some decisions on the rods and pistons. I'm going to have the shop assemble the lower end.

[mrfixxall]

If its a volvo speedmaster they use a merc prop..i have some volvo stuff, if your missing something let me know i might have it.

[Just Say N20]

Volvo drives don't have a plate on the inside. They usually have 6 studs that come through the transom, and each has a 3/8" thick, rectangular washer.

An E-drive with trim would be very cool.

Does it look like this?

[ealtomare]

Yes - that looks like it, with the stubby skeg and large nose cone. I'm not sure if its a 270 or 280 upper, but it definitely has power trim.

Here's a link with some more info, third row down all the way to the right.

http://www.marinepartsexpress.com/vp_engine_finder.htm

Its looks just like the AQ 270 TE

"High speed lower unit"
"Power Trim / Tilt"
"Quick Change Lower gears"

[cpt.scuba]

does not look like a basket case to me .. have seen and bougtht much worse fro more money ... but beware this will just be your first ..donzi yea today a 16 .. then you start to look at 18 2+ 3 next thing you know you are strung out on a 22 ... good luck and dont hesitate to ask us old guys questions

[Just Say N20]

I have a friend with a 1969-ish (I don't remember the year for certain) that is Gucci colors; grumble green hull with red stripes. It has a H/M 289, and a 270 without trim, and the E-drive lower unit.

I believe that was a low-60s boat.

You should like it very well when you get it all together.

I will try and find a picture or two of this boat.

[ealtomare]

I'll be getting pics of the drive tonight. I'm going to check out the transom and get some measurements. I think I'm going to machine an inside support ring for added support and load disbursement. Not sure why Volvo doesn't have more support inside.

Anyways - I attached a pic of the manifolds that came with the boat. I am speaking with another member to pickup a set of GLM aluminum manifolds and Imco risers, (Found them on the for sale location). Just need some guidance to see if they will fit easily. I realize they are 4" thru hulls, but I'm not sure if they are close to the same location. I don't want to be cutting up the transom. Any thoughts?

[Rootsy]

I'll be getting pics of the drive tonight. I'm going to check out the transom and get some measurements. I think I'm going to machine an inside support ring for added support and load disbursement. Not sure why Volvo doesn't have more support inside.

Anyways - I attached a pic of the manifolds that came with the boat. I am speaking with another member to pickup a set of GLM aluminum manifolds and Imco risers, (Found them on the for sale location). Just need some guidance to see if they will fit easily. I realize they are 4" thru hulls, but I'm not sure if they are close to the same location. I don't want to be cutting up the transom. Any thoughts?

The GLM / IMCO's we were communicating about exit in the stock Mercruiser Alpha exhaust location. Someone may have a dimensional drawing handy they can post for you. Chances are very likely you are going to have to fill your existing exhaust hoses and cut new holes further up. If the Crank C/L is at about 14 1/2 inches the center of the exhaust tips will be 3 - 4 inches below the rub rail on the transom.

http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n27/jaroot13/SteeringAssy6.jpg

[ealtomare]

Thanks for the follow up and the picture. Based on that - I think I will have to stay with the Volvo Setup, and pass on your manifolds. It looks like I would have to move my exhaust ports up at least 3 inches. That would leave me with a good size hole under each portI don't want to get into any glass/transom work with this boat unless I have to.

Do you guys know of any companies that makes Volvo manifolds in aluminum?

Thanks!

[mrfixxall]

rootsy's pipes are doable,you can use a s pipe..

http://www.eddiemarine.com/store/cart.php?m=product_list&c=58&page=0&limit=12&sort=prodSort_ASC

may have to change the tips tho!

[ealtomare]

That's pretty neat. I think I may be back in the game if Jamie hasn't sold the manifolds and risers yet. Based on some quick calculations it looks like a 4.5" drop will get me close - I was going to upgrade to 4" through hulls anyways -this may be the fix I need. Think it will be a big detriment to horsepower, having the two extra 90's?

Do you still have the manifolds and risers?

Eric

[ealtomare]

Here's the pics of my drive. I spent a little time yesterday - popped out the gear set from the lower to check condition. Everything looks good. Minimal wear marks, no water in the case, oil condition was pretty good. Relatively thin though. Not like the gear oil I'm used to with the merc's.

Next step, clean it all up - put it back together, blast the entire drive and coat it.

Does anyone have a lead for rebuild kits? I would like to replace the lower o-rings and seals when I put it back together.

Removal of the shift cover show's an AQ 280 Part Number. Did a quick hand turn looks like 1.5:1 gear ratio or thereabouts. Based on the attached looks like it could be a 1.45:1.

Can the "Tilt pump" also be used for trim? Or is it just for tilting the drive for trailering?

Let me know your thoughts.

[Just Say N20]

Tilt is only for raising the drive when there is no load on it. It really doesn't even seem to have the "strength" to trailer and hold the drive in the selected position. Looking around the site you will see many pictures of people with Volvo drives being held up by rope from the drive to the lifting ring.

I'm not suggesting you try this, but if the drive is tilted up slightly with the boat in the water, and you put it in gear and apply the slightest throttle, the drive will be forced down against the stop.

[mrfixxall]

Here's the pics of my drive. I spent a little time yesterday - popped out the gear set from the lower to check condition. Everything looks good. Minimal wear marks, no water in the case, oil condition was pretty good. Relatively thin though. Not like the gear oil I'm used to with the merc's.

Next step, clean it all up - put it back together, blast the entire drive and coat it.

Does anyone have a lead for rebuild kits? I would like to replace the lower o-rings and seals when I put it back together.

Removal of the shift cover show's an AQ 280 Part Number. Did a quick hand turn looks like 1.5:1 gear ratio or thereabouts. Based on the attached looks like it could be a 1.45:1.

Can the "Tilt pump" also be used for trim? Or is it just for tilting the drive for trailering?

Let me know your thoughts.

oil?? just to let you know i have been running 30w in my drive for the last 20+ years,leave the thinner stuff in their,,volvo driver has a circulation pump in the drive,,the thicker merc lube wont circulate in the volvo drive that fast.

if their is a B in the serial # its a 1.61 ratio,C is a 1.89, D is a 2.15..


I only have the heavy center riser manifolds,,i thought the volvo risers would fit but the holes dont line up...Your better off with rootsys..