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Rob M
04-29-2010, 08:56 AM
I have an older trailer (mid 80s) that is used infrequently - mostly for winter storage, a few odd times for towing...I am thinking of switching storage space to a smaller and cheaper building, but will overrun due to the trailer tongue.

Is it feasible/cost effective to convert an old fixed trailer tongue hitch set-up over to a collapsable stem?

Also, the few times I have used this trailer on different tow vehicles, the trailer plug-in has caused the brakes on the SUVs to kick into ABS mode whenever applied -ie. they rattle considerably - quite unnerving. Any idea what is going on to cause this?

Any advice is appreciated.

VetteLT193
04-29-2010, 09:22 AM
folding tongues are not all that expensive and I doubt they are rocket science to install. I'd think that is worth it.... IF you don't have brakes.

What size is the boat, trailer, etc? brakes?

zelatore
04-29-2010, 09:25 AM
No idea on the ABS - I've never seen that happen.

As for mod'ing the trailer, I looked into it once about 5 years ago. I had a trailer with an extra-long tounge for launching on shallow ramps and thought about having it converted to a break-away. A local trailer company was willing to do it, but it wasn't really cost effective for that old beater trailer. Sorry, I don't recall what the price was.

If you're a decent welder, or have a buddy who is, you can buy a kit to do it yourself.

http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?catalogId=10001&storeId=11151&partNumber=8749087&langId=-1

Actually, now that I look at it, I think that's a bolt-on kit. No welding required.

Jraysray
04-29-2010, 10:21 AM
Also, the few times I have used this trailer on different tow vehicles, the trailer plug-in has caused the brakes on the SUVs to kick into ABS mode whenever applied -ie. they rattle considerably - quite unnerving. Any idea what is going on to cause this?

Any advice is appreciated.

Could it be possible that the brakes are not electronically adjusted correctly therefore pushing the vehicle and the vehicle misinterpreting the push and applying the ABS?

bond10
04-29-2010, 11:43 AM
On a somewhat related matter, how difficult/expensive is to install brakes on a brakeless trailer. Grateful for insights.

VetteLT193
04-29-2010, 11:59 AM
On a somewhat related matter, how difficult/expensive is to install brakes on a brakeless trailer. Grateful for insights.

Kodiak makes a pretty inexpensive kit. $400 or so for a single axle brake kit. If you have ever done anything with brakes you know that they are simple and trailer brakes are no different. I have not added them to a trailer but I wouldn't hesitate.

The $400 kit comes with their standard disk/calipers. If you boat in salt you'll want to upgrade to cadmium or SS stuff. I did a TON of research on this and the best bang for the buck is cadmium or Cadmium rotors with SS calipers. All stainless is stupid expensive.

I am guessing cadmium will cost you about $50 more than standard for the kit. Stainless would be about $700 more.

Rob M
04-29-2010, 08:52 PM
Thanks for tips on the swing away - sounds like it could be worth pursuing.

Trailer is a 1983 Cal-Trailer: RV2 (according to the written survey). As the boat is in storage I can't verify that currently.

It must have a braking system that is deploying when the SUV brake is applied, it seems very sensitive to the break pedal of any tow vehicle. At first there is a thumping noise and a noticeable slowdown of the trailer, this seems to then trigger the ABS issue. This all goes away when the trailer is unplugged, but this is obviously not feasible for signal indication, braking indication etc..

VetteLT193
04-30-2010, 06:50 AM
Thanks for tips on the swing away - sounds like it could be worth pursuing.
Trailer is a 1983 Cal-Trailer: RV2 (according to the written survey). As the boat is in storage I can't verify that currently.
It must have a braking system that is deploying when the SUV brake is applied, it seems very sensitive to the break pedal of any tow vehicle. At first there is a thumping noise and a noticeable slowdown of the trailer, this seems to then trigger the ABS issue. This all goes away when the trailer is unplugged, but this is obviously not feasible for signal indication, braking indication etc..

what connector does the trailer have? no brakes == flat 4 prong. If it has brakes it will have something different. Usually a flat 5 for boat trailers... the 5th being the backup light so you can back up. If you have brakes I would take a long look at the setup to see if you can fold. There are usually brake lines that run from the front to the tires so folding isn't possible.

CHACHI
04-30-2010, 07:16 AM
If you have brakes I would take a long look at the setup to see if you can fold. There are usually brake lines that run from the front to the tires so folding isn't possible.

Cut out the hard line and replace with either flexible stainless or rubber line at the "hinge".

I would rewire the truck for the trailer .

The "spare wire" in a flat five connector can also be wired into the back up lights to power a solenoid at the tailer master cylinder to dis-able the brakes (if hydraulic) so you can back up a hill.

Ken

Wazzy
04-30-2010, 07:52 AM
Do a search for Fulton Trailer swing tongues, can't beat the price and they look like a breeze to install.

gcarter
04-30-2010, 09:18 AM
so you can back up a hill.Ken

Or just backup! :boggled::yes:

Fluffy Foo-Foo
05-02-2010, 09:03 PM
Do a search for Fulton Trailer swing tongues, can't beat the price and they look like a breeze to install.


:yes: One of the first things I did was install a Fulton swing tongue. Did the bolt-on. Make sure the kit you get has the Torx bit for the bolts. Took about 1-1/2 hrs.

Would have taken less but I had help from my neighbor!:nilly:

FISHIN SUCKS
05-03-2010, 06:49 PM
On a somewhat related matter, how difficult/expensive is to install brakes on a brakeless trailer. Grateful for insights.
Sorry for the temporary thread hi-jack, Rob.

If you are trailering in freshwater, I highly recommend the electric brake set up over surge. I hate surge brakes anyway. Requires a 7 way plug (flat 4 or 5 won't get it), and buy the a pair of electric brakes on ebay (or from a surplus store like I did in SE Michigan) for $130/pair. whether you have a 4-hole or 5-hole backing plate at each wheel, it doesn't matter. For salt water use, I have been told the electric brake set-up is not advised. If you go electric, I suggest getting a brake controller in your truck (less than a $100).

Hi-jack over, repeat, Hi-Jack over.

Rob M
05-03-2010, 07:36 PM
Hi-jack over, repeat, Hi-Jack over.

No problem at all:)

I use trailers so infrequently that I am really not up to speed on some of the basics around brakes etc. I find any added info on the topic helpful.

FISHIN SUCKS
05-04-2010, 06:20 AM
Thanx for the 'free pass' Rob:kingme:

VetteLT193
05-04-2010, 07:13 AM
BTW: The newest setup is Electric over Hydraulic. Full control with electric but you still have standard hydraulic brakes, lines, etc. up to the front of the trailer. It's the best of both worlds but $$$$$$ I think the actuator for the trailer is about 600 plus all the other BS parts I'm sure is needed.

Cuda
05-04-2010, 08:04 AM
All my trucks had a seven prong plug. It was part of the tow package.
The guy that built the trailer for my Formula told me to get drum brakes with a two year guarantee on them, then if they were rusty to take a sledge hammer to them and get a new set. I never had to. I had a flush kit put on the trailer too, and it did a fine job of rinsing salt water from the brakes. The boat was used 95% in salt water.

Cuda
05-04-2010, 08:06 AM
It was electric over hydraulic.