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View Full Version : 68 barrelback v-drive shaft angle



wagspe208
04-16-2010, 10:38 PM
OK, the old girl is ready for some sprucing up. Deck recore, stringers if needed, tank, etc. It will be a year project or so.
I have had the boat a coupe of years.
I have noticed:
1) it does not turn at speed.. it just wants to roll over
2) it requires a lot of down trim tab trim to keep from porpising
Since it will be apart has anyone lessened the shaft angle to help this. Obviously prop positioning will help but it is a pretty steep shaft angle. Now, I am a drag boat guy, and that is apples and oranges.... so.... anyone try less angle or am I in no mans land?
Wags

PS... I just want to run around and look cool. I am not going racing with this piece. It runs 50 now. Thats fine, but it could be more efficient (less fuel to do it).

mattyboy
04-17-2010, 09:03 AM
don't know diddley about v-drives or their handling, but they did put two different v drives in them.
If you have the original holman moody serial number there should be a T or a Z in it.

T= 12 degree v drive
Z= 0 degree v drive

I would try and drop eric " barellback aka flatbottom racer" a member here he has a v drive 18 and has some drag boat expierence too he might have some ideas

hope that helps

post pics

nice project

v-drive
04-17-2010, 04:49 PM
My v-drive has 12 degree gears with a 9 degree shaft angle. If you have the original strut like mine it will have the word DONZI with a 9 embossed on it. Any less angle than this would probably be getting the prop close to the bottom of the boat. The turning of your boat is just the nature of a deep v-bottom and v-drive combination, I don't think you will change this.

wagspe208
04-17-2010, 10:56 PM
My v-drive has 12 degree gears with a 9 degree shaft angle. If you have the original strut like mine it will have the word DONZI with a 9 embossed on it. Any less angle than this would probably be getting the prop close to the bottom of the boat. The turning of your boat is just the nature of a deep v-bottom and v-drive combination, I don't think you will change this.

Hmmm. I have a split case casale in it. I assume it is a 12 degree. I did not measure shaft angles.
I have not seen the "Donzi" on the strut. I will check tomorrow.
I have a 12" prop on it.
Wags

wagspe208
04-17-2010, 11:16 PM
OK, with a 13" prop on it... there is about 1" between the prop ear and the bottom.
It is a 9 deg. strut. Shaft angle is 9 deg. off the bottom of the boat. I do not see the Donzi cast into it.
Prop ear is about 3.5 to 4" from back of ear to transom. I can get a real measurement tomorrow. I had to check tonight. It was driving me nuts.

Oh, it is definately a 10 or a 12 v-drive... not a 0 Deg.
It has tabs. I'd rather get it set up properly and use the tabs for load/ weight. Using tabs is a crutch for a poor setup I think.
I am a drag hydro guy. I probably do not want to kick the tail of this piece, though. LOL
It has a 350, not original engine. It has cast intake manifold, SS exhaust logs, circulating pump, etc. I want to use alum intake, cam driven water pump and eliminate the HEAVY water pump and circulating pump. I want to put a 350 back in it. Maybe a 383. Basically I want to eliminate the plumbing snake festival of plumbing, and use only 1 belt to drive the alternator. I like the clean, simple look.
I have a beautiful set of alum SB2 heads from Joe Gibbs racing. Complete and not much $$ in them. So... I will be taking over 100# out of the back of this boat. Obviously this will affect handling also.
I do NOT want to put a ton of power in that strut, though. I may make a steel one if I get a wild hair.
Wags


So when you look at it from the outside... I want it to look 40 years old but new. When you lift the engine hatch, all new, cool stuff.
What do you guys think of my plan? Suggestions are most welcomed. I will post a pic of my last build. It turned out pretty nice I think.