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Kirbyvv
04-07-2010, 09:00 AM
I'm getting ready to pull the deck to replace the tank. It's a '78 X-18, but has foamed flotation making it difficult to see much. The ski locker and cockpit tub are tabbed to the stringers on either side of the tank in front of the cockpit, but I can't see anything further back because of the foam. Where else would I expect to find the deck-cockpit tabbed to the hull?
I'm rigging a lifting system and using a fork lift with a 16 foot reach and 6,000 lbs capacity. When we go to lift the deck off, how easily does it move? If it doesn't move easily should we stop or just yank harder?

mattyboy
04-07-2010, 09:25 AM
Kirby should be tabs some where on each side near the rear seat area where it meets the stringers and maybe if there is a floor locker on each side as well.

you'll know if the tabs are still in place when you go to lift by hand to get the support needed to lift with a forklift.

I would pop the deck by hand and then support the deck with lumber spanned across the hull then find your lift points that will support the nose and cockpit area the best.

look up threads by Geo and Penbroke they have pics and info on how they lifted the deck.


good luck

mrfixxall
04-07-2010, 09:48 AM
I'm getting ready to pull the deck to replace the tank. It's a '78 X-18, but has foamed flotation making it difficult to see much. The ski locker and cockpit tub are tabbed to the stringers on either side of the tank in front of the cockpit, but I can't see anything further back because of the foam. Where else would I expect to find the deck-cockpit tabbed to the hull?
I'm rigging a lifting system and using a fork lift with a 16 foot reach and 6,000 lbs capacity. When we go to lift the deck off, how easily does it move? If it doesn't move easily should we stop or just yank harder?


when i did mine i had 2 1'x1' biaxial (the heavy duty chit) in the front of the ski locker and 2 2' long x 1' (same chit) between the seats under the beer chest even with the seats back glassed to the stringers and the floor bottom...you will need to cut the attached fiberglass pieces to remove the deck..


lift from the middle of the boat between the seats, if you lift it this way its pretty well balanced (DONT LIFT FROM THE FRONT AT ALL!!!)

i used 2 4x4 pieces of wood in the locked between the seats,then i wedged a cut piece of 2x10 between the ski locker and the deck..it all comes out in one piece..the steering cable detach it from the back of the boat,the shift and throttle cables and detach all the wiring from the back of the boat..it all goes with the deck when removed..also you only need to remove the fuel fill hose clamp once you lift the deck also don't forget about the 2 wires that go to the fuel sender,if i remember they go towards the pass starboard side of the boat then foes forward from their,,

here is some bad pics1 sorry it was before the digital age..

gcarter
04-07-2010, 09:52 AM
What Matty said.
A little help might be had by hanging a comalong from your fork lift to help lift from the center a little.....
It may help in case the man power is a little shy. You can pull up just a bit and tell where the resistance may be if it doeesn't come up freely.

penbroke
04-07-2010, 11:46 AM
Mine was tabbed at the fore end of the ski tray, The front corners of the cockpit to the hull and the bottom of the floor to the inside of the stringers along the sides of the floor storage tub.

You will know when it is loose as you will be able to move the deck relative to the hull easily. The deck really is not that heavy. I picked mine up alone to place the lifting beams between the deck and hull.

If the foam was squirted in after it may bond the deck to the hull as well...


Frank

mrfixxall
04-07-2010, 11:58 AM
while you have the deck off it may be a good time to check all the foam,it may be saturated with gas and water which will weight the boat down,,mine did not have any flotation foam in it..

Kirbyvv
04-07-2010, 01:10 PM
thanks everyone. Yeh, I'm getting all that foam out while the deck is off, adding side rails, relocating trim tab pump, painting the bilge, etc.

The foam is pretty brittle, so I don't think it will bond the hull and deck together. I know it is probably water saturated and since the tank cracked, probably has some gas in it too. I'll have to hack some of the foam out to find where the hull and deck are tabbed in some places.

penbroke
04-07-2010, 01:21 PM
Removing gas soaked tank foam is truly one of life's little joys...

Be very carefull removing it.


Frank

mrfixxall
04-07-2010, 01:31 PM
thanks everyone. Yeh, I'm getting all that foam out while the deck is off, adding side rails, relocating trim tab pump, painting the bilge, etc.

The foam is pretty brittle, so I don't think it will bond the hull and deck together. I know it is probably water saturated and since the tank cracked, probably has some gas in it too. I'll have to hack some of the foam out to find where the hull and deck are tabbed in some places.


if you look at the pic i posted on mine you can see on the front of the ski locker where its glassed to the stringer's in the front.. its pretty simple task to separate the deck from the hull.. also you will have to remove the lifting rings, takes 2 people tho..have a shinny person in the bow while someone at the ring,stick a pip through it while the person on the inside with a wrench holding the god from spinning while loosening it..you may want to add some extra glass to the bow ring that you hook the winch to..mine was a bit thin so i added a extra inch to build it up..

BlownCrewCab
04-07-2010, 01:40 PM
Removing gas soaked tank foam is truly one of life's little joys...

Be very carefull removing it.


Frank


I saw a thread on OSO about removing the foam with a pressure washer, it's VERY MESSY, but the Fastest way possible, faster than a sawzall.