Motor paint

[Jraysray]

Need to clean up the engine and paint some spots. Surface rust on the block along with chipped paint on the intake, valve covers etc...

Recomendations on which type to use? Keep in mind I run mostly in salt.

I would like to use some type of rust killing paint for the rusty areas.

[VetteLT193]

the only way to really do it correctly is to scrape the rust off first. If you paint over the rust it will continue to rust under the fresh paint.

There is a guy over on Offshoreonly that made up the Merc racing blue paint spray cans. it's good quality for an easy application product.

[Mckillop]

I dont mean to hijack the thread, but am currently replacing the engine in my 18, and I am going to have the block and some other pieces painted red to match the stripes. My question is, is it better to have the block painted, or powder coated?

[MOP]

I have found this to be the very best product for rust prevention, it will keep cast iron blocks manifolds looking new for years. It is extremely lubricious and messy to work with, it will seep into old rust and stop it in its tracks. It is bright silver and can be used as a base or final coat, I had it on my salt 16 and when the manifolds went bad the new owner said the paint still looked cherry. That was after five years!

http://www.westmarine.com/1/1/6428-rustlok-steel-primer-quart-from-pettit.html

[MOP]

I dont mean to hijack the thread, but am currently replacing the engine in my 18, and I am going to have the block and some other pieces painted red to match the stripes. My question is, is it better to have the block painted, or powder coated?

Powder coating is not only expensive but if chipped or dinged even slightly the rust creeps under it and ruins it, you are better off using something like I posted above as a base then use a quality heat resistant top coat.

Phil

[Barry Eller]

Is the engine out of the boat?
I painted my 502 with Imron. Here is an old thread documenting my engine rebuild and the painting process.

http://www.donzi.net/forums/showthread.php?t=48605&page=3

[Mckillop]

Yes, the motor is now out of the boat. I am actually going with a new crate engine with a new outdrive and transom assembly due to damage that occured when I lost the trailer off the back of my truck. There is also some minor damage to the transom, so everything had to come off anyways to get that fixed. While we were pulling the motor we noticed a small crack in the block which is strange because the boat has had fresh water cooling(anti-freeze) since the first week we bought it new in 1996. So we are thinking we bought the boat new with a crack in the block, but the mechanic said that it was so minor that we never would have noticed it. It would just get topped of with coolant every once in a while, so I never really thought much about it. Anyways, it worked out for the best because now I have an excuse for a performance motor and outdrive. I am also having silent choice exhaust installed at the same time while everything is off the transom.

Thanks for the input on powder coating. I was thinking that painting would be the way to go, but was a little unsure if powder coating might be better. Thanks for the input, sounds like I will have it painted.

Great link Barry, thanks

[glashole]

Mckillop

make sure it is a marinized crate engine or marinize it yourself before install

if you are looking for info on this do a search or start a new thread



now back to your reg scheduled programing

Shea

[Mckillop]

Thanks for the advice. Yes it will be a marine engine for sure.

[mrfixxall]

+2 for imron if its out of the boat..mines been yekkow for ten years now anf you can still almost eat off of it..

as for touching up rusty stuff,wall mart sells rustolum engine paint that works great for that..

[ghiafreak62]

Imron on the new engine, try Por-15 for rust, make sure u have brass freeze plugs in your block.

[gcarter]

After a good primer coat, or coats, I'm going to use the same high end automotive acrylic/polyurethane paint I used on the outdrive, tabs etc.

[hdsadey]

Nason makes an industrial grade paint call Fast Dry Enamel. Nason is DuPonts economy line. This enamel takes no hardener, just a reducer. Can be sprayed on and is an air dry coating. Air dry paints serve better on engine blocks to dissipate heat because the absence of the hardener, lets them breathe better. Hardeners close the paint pores too much. Its a great product and priced affordable. I'm using Imron on the outdrive for durabililty. Since they are both DuPont products they can be color matched, check it out.

[thehow33]

Nason makes an industrial grade paint call Fast Dry Enamel. Nason is DuPonts economy line. This enamel takes no hardener, just a reducer. Can be sprayed on and is an air dry coating. Air dry paints serve better on engine blocks to dissipate heat because the absence of the hardener, lets them breathe better. Hardeners close the paint pores too much. Its a great product and priced affordable. I'm using Imron on the outdrive for durabililty. Since they are both DuPont products they can be color matched, check it out.

i've been told to use a hardener because thats how you get the really deep shine, but never that it will run hotter. where did you hear that?

[mrfixxall]

chit mine never gets over 130*...if the paint breaths then water will get behind it then it will rust..I painted many motors with imron and never had any over heating problems and no rusting engine blocks..i even used imron clear on my intake and my aluminum cylinder heads with no signs of any ugly aluminum corrosion..

just my 02

[Barry Eller]

Imron was originally designed to be an industrial paint for heavy equipment and their engines.

[CHACHI]

After a good primer coat, or coats, I'm going to use the same high end automotive acrylic/polyurethane paint I used on the outdrive, tabs etc.

Let me guess, red? :wink:

Ken

[hdsadey]

must be difference between boats and cars, i'm tryin to convert my thinking over over and learning as I go. i'm very new to this engine inside the boat stuff, always had outboards

[Cuda]

Paint any rusted areas with Ospho, or the equivaltent. It has a chemical reaction with the rust (iron oxide) and turns it into aluminum oxide I believe. I refinish antique tubs, and I always paint rusted areas with Oshpo. It will turn the rust dark black, and stop the rust. Rust never sleeps.