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Carl C
02-15-2010, 03:22 PM
I will be ordering my steering kit soon and will install it in March. One big concern is that all of the holes that I drill through my transom be properly and thoroughly sealed to eliminate a wet transom in the future. I plan to use a toothbrush to seal the wood in the new holes with resin, then assemble the parts with 5200 on both sides, tightening the bolts just snug and then retightening after the 5200 has cured. Does this sound like the right way to do it?

rchevelle71
02-15-2010, 03:48 PM
Sounds right to me, remember that 5200 is a bear to remove though, may want to use something a little easier to remove, just in case.

Carl C
02-15-2010, 04:24 PM
Sounds right to me, remember that 5200 is a bear to remove though, may want to use something a little easier to remove, just in case.

4200 is easier to remove but not as strong. Which is normally used for steering components, 4200 or 5200?

Pismo
02-15-2010, 04:55 PM
The resin in the hole is the important part. As I recall, the anal way to do this is to overdrill the hole by 1/16, load it with resin, and then redrill thru the resin at the proper size.

gcarter
02-15-2010, 04:56 PM
Use resin in the wood...yes, but not polyester resin.
Instead, use a thin epoxy resin like System Three "clear coat" I think it's called.
Polyester resin doesn't really seal wood very well.

Also, while 5200 is a great product, use no more than is necessary to seal the ends of the fasteners where they intersect the transom itself.
Example, stick the outer bracket bolts through the bracket, lay a bead of 5200 around each bolt on the INSIDE of the bracket.
Carefully stick the bolts through the transom w/o allowing the bolts to move as they go through the bracket.
After the bolts are through the transom and the outer bracket is flush against the transom, put another bead around the bolts on the inside of the transom. Slide the inner backing plate over the bolts, again while keeping everything in place.
DON'T get any excess 5200 on the threads where the nuts are going.
A little help is useful doing this.

This will effectively seal the transom w/o having problems w/too much 5200.

The Hedgehog
02-15-2010, 05:14 PM
Ditto on what George said. I don't know if I would use any 5200. Didn't on the 26.

Carl C
02-15-2010, 05:31 PM
Good stuff. Thanks. There are a couple of other threads here on steering installs that I will refer to but proper sealing was a big concern. I should have the kit here by the end of the month so I can take my time doing the work. I will be getting the "120 cc" helm which will give me 3 or less turns of the steering wheel according to Paul Everett.

mrfixxall
02-15-2010, 05:43 PM
Another trick i learned on my own is when your done drilling the all the holes have some SS tubing that is the size of the bolts that go through the transom then i mock the correct length and subtract 1/16th,then i drip the holes bigger to the outside diameter of the tubing 5200 slide the tubes through the transom,seal all around the ram mounting plates and bolt holes...i do it this way so you cant over tighten the bolts and crush the transom..

gcarter
02-15-2010, 05:49 PM
Life Seal is just as good a sealer as 5200 and you can get it apart every time.
You can peal it off once you get the bolts back out.
It's designed for underwater sealing.

Dr. David Fleming
02-15-2010, 06:43 PM
Hey Carl, what is the name of your black pup? HOw old is it?

fogducker III
02-15-2010, 07:18 PM
Carl, have a look at the SikaFlex line of products, I have used it for years and had good success..........:wink:

BlownCrewCab
02-15-2010, 07:25 PM
Another trick i learned on my own is when your done drilling the all the holes have some SS tubing that is the size of the bolts that go through the transom then i mock the correct length and subtract 1/16th,then i drip the holes bigger to the outside diameter of the tubing 5200 slide the tubes through the transom,seal all around the ram mounting plates and bolt holes...i do it this way so you cant over tighten the bolts and crush the transom..


If you end up not doing it Fixx's way, then only tighten the nut/bolts to 20 ft-lbs max and only do it once! Being a wood cored part the wood will crush some each time you try to achive your 20 ft-lb. also if a Big name builder was installing that setup it would have 5200 on it, not saying anything bad about the other choices but most trust 5200 more... But do what you are comfortable with.

Carl C
02-15-2010, 08:35 PM
Dr. D, I breed German Shepherds. That one has been sold. I have a batch now for $400 each. Pics.....

Foggy, What does SikaFlex sell? I already have a good deal arranged on the Zeiger.

BCC, I was leaning toward 5200. I will remember not too tight. I'll loc-tite the nuts.

penbroke
02-15-2010, 09:14 PM
Another trick i learned on my own is when your done drilling the all the holes have some SS tubing that is the size of the bolts that go through the transom then i mock the correct length and subtract 1/16th,then i drill the holes bigger to the outside diameter of the tubing 5200 slide the tubes through the transom,seal all around the ram mounting plates and bolt holes...i do it this way so you cant over tighten the bolts and crush the transom..

I like it. Great idea!


Frank

fogducker III
02-15-2010, 09:32 PM
Dr. D, I breed German Shepherds. That one has been sold. I have a batch now for $400 each. Pics.....

Foggy, What does SikaFlex sell? I already have a good deal arranged on the Zeiger.

BCC, I was leaning toward 5200. I will remember not too tight. I'll loc-tite the nuts.

Sika Flex is a line of sealants and adesives......great stuff, the marine line is some of the best I have tried. The good thing about it is that it seals off water tight and sticks great, but when you need to remove something or change it, you can actually get the product off.....:wink:

For the steering application I beleive the SikaFlex product number is 291....? You can get it in different colours as well. Good luck with the install....


http://www.sika.com.au/cmi/marine_products.htm

mrfixxall
02-15-2010, 10:27 PM
Dr. D, I breed German Shepherds. That one has been sold. I have a batch now for $400 each. Pics.....

Foggy, What does SikaFlex sell? I already have a good deal arranged on the Zeiger.

BCC, I was leaning toward 5200. I will remember not too tight. I'll loc-tite the nuts.

you got like 4k in that wooden box less all the shots and what have you, now i know where the zanger $$ are coming from:)

gcarter
02-15-2010, 10:41 PM
you got like 4k in that wooden box less all the shots and what have you, now i know where the zanger $$ are coming from:)

Figured it out, eh Mike?

Dr. David Fleming
02-16-2010, 03:50 AM
Carl,

Great looking pups, I will have to get with you and check one out.

I have used SikaFlex for twenty years or more on antique wooden boats. It has great adhesion to old wood, paint, calking cotton etc. and will cure under water. If I remember, it came in wood shades and a white. Only problem in those days was the shelf life was only a year and it would harden in the tube. That was at least ten years ago. Great calk!

ONe other advantage of the Sika products is that their national distributor is in the Detroit Metro Area. If you go up I 75 near Oakland Mall and look on the other side of the freeway when you go north you will see the warehouse sign on the left.

I have pulled my Latham external hydraulic off of my transom and always calk it with 3M 5200. Of course I learned on calking wooden hulls, and a fiberglass hull is not a problem to calk. Just lay it thick like a bedding compound, let it squeeze out of the holes and base and then clean it up before it dries.

By the way when calking an old wooden hull you needed a calking mallet, calking iron, calking cotton and paste calk which came in a can. The paste calk was made of red lead powder, linseed oil and white lead paste. You mixed it to the consistancy of window putty, tinted it, and laid it in the seam with a putty knife. Just had to be careful not to eat lunch with the work as you would get a lead flavored sandwich.

Before calking with the paste, the hammer and iron were used to drive cotton rope into the seam. When the wood swelled it would lock down hard on the cotton and you could get a really dry flexable hull. I watched the arabs in Egypt doing this when I was in Cairo a couple of years ago. Mostly wood hulls over there so its still current technology.

With wood boats calking is serious business and was a trade for boat builders. Learned on the job and a valuable skill when mastered. They used to call it "paying the seams" a term you don't hear much any more. When I got the hang of I used to enjoy the hell out of it.

Fiberglass guys got it easy. Just lay on the calk bolt her down and watch the leaks disapear. Only way to screw up is not use enough calk!

VetteLT193
02-16-2010, 06:46 AM
You also may want to build up the area behind where the ram(s) go. I know Donzi changed the transom design over the years so I'm not sure how yours is vs. the older ones but you don't want any flex in that area.

Carl C
02-16-2010, 06:51 AM
Hey, Fixx, any idea where I can buy SS tubing like that. That's a great idea. I will poke around the local stores. I appreciate the options but will use 5200 and hope like hell that I never have to take it apart. Maybe I will start a new thread to document my project.

The puppy money helps out but I am getting hammered with big bills right now like property taxes on 2 homes, insurance, income tax etc. At least this should be the last year I need to put major work or money into the boat; Unless I break something. I think that I have put together a pretty durable little boat though.

Cuda
02-16-2010, 07:53 AM
I think 5200 is overkill. I'd use 4200. If you use 5200 and make a mistake, you will have to pull gelcoat off too.

mrfixxall
02-16-2010, 08:53 AM
Hey, Fixx, any idea where I can buy SS tubing like that. That's a great idea. I will poke around the local stores. I appreciate the options but will use 5200 and hope like hell that I never have to take it apart. Maybe I will start a new thread to document my project.

The puppy money helps out but I am getting hammered with big bills right now like property taxes on 2 homes, insurance, income tax etc. At least this should be the last year I need to put major work or money into the boat; Unless I break something. I think that I have put together a pretty durable little boat though.

A friend of mine owns a SS shop and does all the work for cokeacola, i get it from him..

Carl C
02-16-2010, 10:15 AM
I think 5200 is overkill. I'd use 4200. If you use 5200 and make a mistake, you will have to pull gelcoat off too.

I will measure six times and drill once!

Fixx, I will try to find something local first. I'll wait til I get the kit and know what size I need. Great idea to keep the transom from compressing! I will do it at least on the ram plates.

VetteLT193
02-16-2010, 10:31 AM
Carl: I have to ask what the purpose of the 5200 is in this scenario. Pros vs cons I can't see a single pro for 5200 in this case... what am I missing?

mrfixxall
02-16-2010, 12:27 PM
Carl: I have to ask what the purpose of the 5200 is in this scenario. Pros vs cons I can't see a single pro for 5200 in this case... what am I missing?

5200 will stick to anything its applied to..it has a life time bond that wont unbond like silicone will..when it first came out 3m cut a 5k keel off a sail boat and glued it back on with 5200 and sailed around the world with it just to prove how durable it is...i know its a biach to get off but once its on its just something you wont have to worry about..:)

Carl C
02-16-2010, 01:54 PM
5200 will stick to anything its applied to..it has a life time bond that wont unbond like silicone will..when it first came out 3m cut a 5k keel off a sail boat and glued it back on with 5200 and sailed around the world with it just to prove how durable it is...i know its a biach to get off but once its on its just something you wont have to worry about..:)

Thanks Fixx. With the tremendous load placed on the ram plates I think I will use the strongest adhesive/sealant that I am familiar with - 5200. I can't think of any reason why they should ever have to come off.

joseph m. hahnl
02-16-2010, 02:59 PM
Thanks Fixx. With the tremendous load placed on the ram plates I think I will use the strongest adhesive/sealant that I am familiar with - 5200. I can't think of any reason why they should ever have to come off.


It's not like some one is going to rear end the back of your boat:boggled:

handfulz28
02-16-2010, 03:19 PM
Why don't these kits come with rubber gaskets? Ya' know, like a transom assembly? No 5200 on those...

mrfixxall
02-16-2010, 04:06 PM
Why don't these kits come with rubber gaskets? Ya' know, like a transom assembly? No 5200 on those...


not all mfr's glue their transom assembly's but i can tell you that sonic does:yes:

Carl C
02-16-2010, 04:22 PM
Well since we have a disagreement here on which adhesive/sealant to use I posted a poll on SOS. I trust you guys first but we have a split decision. SOS has a lot more members and variety of boats. I'll see where it goes. If 4200 is sufficient then 4200 it will be.....

gcarter
02-16-2010, 04:52 PM
Why don't these kits come with rubber gaskets? Ya' know, like a transom assembly? No 5200 on those...

The bolt holes are in the middle of the bracket.......
Maybe some O-rings around the bolts would be a better idea.

realbold
02-16-2010, 05:49 PM
5200 will stick to anything its applied to..a life time bond that wont unbond like silicone will..
...except ABS and Lexan. Silicone works best for those.
For this and most thru hull fittings I'd use the 5200.

gcarter
02-16-2010, 07:04 PM
not all mfr's glue their transom assembly's but i can tell you that sonic does:yes:

Some people do inspite of good sense they may have!:bonk:

http://www.donzi.net/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=31111&d=1187208866

http://www.donzi.net/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=31112&d=1187208866

This was darn near impossible to get off!

MDonziM
02-16-2010, 07:46 PM
Carl,

I added a mayfair system 2yrs ago and will offer the following comments after reading this thread so far. First, the part of the transom where the ram mounts was less than 1/2" thick solid glass so I'm not as concerned with the streanth of the seal as much as the water-proofness of the seal. I dont know that 5200 seals any better than 4200 etc. Unless your transom is very different than mine (94') you will need to build up the transom thickness. I added approx 8"x 14" 1/2" thick coring with 3 layers of glass on earch side, from the thick part of the transom around the outdrive all the way to the chine. ( this was done last yr after 1 season using simple 4"x6" 5/8 plywood and backing plates and watching the transom flex at wheel lock) If I can find a pick I'll post it.

Marshall

yeller
02-16-2010, 08:39 PM
Carl, do you have twin ram tabs or singles? It's been posted here a bunch of times, but don't forget to get the correct length rams for your steering.

I wasted a bunch of time because I ordered the wrong length rams, then had to return them for shorter ones. MrX and others have said you need 7" rams with the twin ram bennetts, but I got away with an 8" 'short' ram, which probably ended up being the same length as the 7's. Best bet would be to get Zeiger or whoever to send you a mounting template before you order.

I think I used 5200 on mine, (but wouldn't have hesitated to use 4200). I figured if I screwed up and had to take the brackets off, I'd have bigger problems than repairing a bit of chipped gel.

One other mistake I 'almost' made was after marking all my holes, I didn't check to see where I'd be drilling to on the inside. :bonk: I just barely missed drilling into the stringer. 1/4" lower and I would have had refill the holes and start again. :bonk::bonk:

MDonziM, Carl's transom will be much thicker at the mounting points than 1/2".

Carl C
02-17-2010, 07:35 AM
George, at least it looks like the transom stayed nice and dry. So mine is not sealed??

MDonziM, I am pretty sure that my transom is cored in it's entirety.

Yeller, thanks much for that tip. I have learned so much from other's errors here. I will be sure to discuss the ram length with Mr. Everett when I place my order. It was due to posts here that I found out that I need a 120 cc helm to avoid too much steering wheel travel.

Will this kind of epoxy be OK to seal the wood in the holes? I wouldn't use the quick dry though. Or is this a whole different animal than the fiberglass epoxy resin?

osur866
02-17-2010, 08:09 AM
I used 4200 on mine when I did my Latham system, wood? Carl your boat is an 05 or an 06? Think when you drill your first hole your prolly gonna be suprised. Steve

mrfixxall
02-17-2010, 09:14 AM
i would rather have a bigger helm with more cc's,just remember lets sat you have a 3 turn lock to lock steering helm,with the less turns to turn the drive the faster the drive reacts,is that good on a smaller boat? no! the boat will turn to fast or you may be over correcting yourself.. if it were mine i would rather have more turns lock to lock so the drive turns slower..also shorter rams react faster also..

gcarter
02-17-2010, 09:29 AM
Carl, you have to do this right. As far as epoxy goes, you will want to use a very thin penetrating epoxy like System Three "Clear Coat".
http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/show_product.do?pid=754
Your not just trying to put a coat of epoxy on the wood, but to penetrate the wood fibers so no water will enter the wood in case of seal failure. This product is also very useful as the base coat of a osmotic blister repair job.
I haven't found a better thin epoxy. Carl, it won't build up in the bolt holes, but actually penetrate the wood. It has the consistancy of about 10 Wt. oil. It's very thin.
Get on line and get this ordered. You can apply it with a Q-tip, or anything similar.

No, your transom isn't sealed like the picture abvove. Your gimbal has a circumferential groove around the perimeter of the housing. A large O-ring is glued into the groove w/bellows adhesive and allowed to harden. When the gimbal housing is installed, it's put onto the transom dry. The O-ring does the sealing. Some folks like to run a bead of silicon sealer around the perimeter of the housing. I did this w/the Minx. I used the black color so it wasn't visible.
As far as the idiot that sealed the TR's housing w/5200, I would have strangled him if he'd been around. It took me several hours to get it off. If you look carefully, you can see where I drove in pry bars in from the sides to finally loosen it. I started off using wood wedges, but that did nothing. It was a very frustrating experience. It was a good thing I repaired the glass on the transom in that area.

Carl C
02-17-2010, 10:43 AM
I used 4200 on mine when I did my Latham system, wood? Carl your boat is an 05 or an 06? Think when you drill your first hole your prolly gonna be suprised. Steve

Are you saying that my transom core may not be wood but a composite??


Carl, you have to do this right. As far as epoxy goes, you will want to use a very thin penetrating epoxy like System Three "Clear Coat".
http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/show_product.do?pid=754
Your not just trying to put a coat of epoxy on the wood, but to penetrate the wood fibers so no water will enter the wood in case of seal failure. This product is also very useful as the base coat of a osmotic blister repair job.
I haven't found a better thin epoxy. Carl, it won't build up in the bolt holes, but actually penetrate the wood. It has the consistancy of about 10 Wt. oil. It's very thin.
Get on line and get this ordered. You can apply it with a Q-tip, or anything similar.

No, your transom isn't sealed like the picture abvove. Your gimbal has a circumferential groove around the perimeter of the housing. A large O-ring is glued into the groove w/bellows adhesive and allowed to harden. When the gimbal housing is installed, it's put onto the transom dry. The O-ring does the sealing. Some folks like to run a bead of silicon sealer around the perimeter of the housing. I did this w/the Minx. I used the black color so it wasn't visible.
As far as the idiot that sealed the TR's housing w/5200, I would have strangled him if he'd been around. It took me several hours to get it off. If you look carefully, you can see where I drove in pry bars in from the sides to finally loosen it. I started off using wood wedges, but that did nothing. It was a very frustrating experience. It was a good thing I repaired the glass on the transom in that area.

Thanks george, your the man! So you did get that transom off even though it was on there with 5200. I thought that was impossible!?

Fixx, by going up to almost 3 full steering wheel turns I am already adding travel. I have heard complaints from folks who found 4 turns or so after their steering install.

gcarter
02-17-2010, 10:47 AM
[quote=Carl C;556471]Thanks george, your the man! So you did get that transom off even though it was on there with 5200. I thought that was impossible!?quote]

It was very difficult and it gave up very slowly. After using pry bars, puty knives, wide wood chisels, it still took about three hours to get it off.

zelatore
02-17-2010, 10:52 AM
Carl, even though 5200 is considered 'permanent', it can be disassembled. it's just really, really tough. I've had to take things apart that were sealed with 5200, and it'll fight you every inch. There are products, like Debond, which help break 5200 down, but it's expensive and you've got to use a lot of it because it doesn't penetrate so you end up working small sections at a time.

That said, if you use 5200 on gel coat be prepaired for damage in removing it. Typically, to get it off I end up using a very long, thin razor knife, debond, chisels or other wedges/pry bars, and a lot of swearing.

So technically, you can take it apart. It's just not something you want to do.

mrfixxall
02-17-2010, 10:59 AM
also remember carl,your transom was fixed and repainted,worse case it will only pull the paint off and not the gel..

gcarter
02-17-2010, 11:08 AM
Carl, even though 5200 is considered 'permanent', it can be disassembled. it's just really, really tough. I've had to take things apart that were sealed with 5200, and it'll fight you every inch. There are products, like Debond, which help break 5200 down, but it's expensive and you've got to use a lot of it because it doesn't penetrate so you end up working small sections at a time.

That said, if you use 5200 on gel coat be prepaired for damage in removing it. Typically, to get it off I end up using a very long, thin razor knife, debond, chisels or other wedges/pry bars, and a lot of swearing.

So technically, you can take it apart. It's just not something you want to do.

And this is why some other products that seal just as well are preforable if there's any chance you might disassemble.

osur866
02-17-2010, 11:46 AM
Are you saying that my transom core may not be wood but a composite??

I'm sayin just post your findings after you drill your first hole, I'd add backing plates if the steering system doesn't come with them for sure.

Carl C
02-17-2010, 04:06 PM
also remember carl,your transom was fixed and repainted,worse case it will only pull the paint off and not the gel..

Not fixed, just exhaust holes relocated. The transom was never damaged.


Are you saying that my transom core may not be wood but a composite??

I'm sayin just post your findings after you drill your first hole, I'd add backing plates if the steering system doesn't come with them for sure.

OK, will do.

mrfixxall
02-17-2010, 04:32 PM
Not fixed, just exhaust holes relocated. The transom was never damaged.



OK, will do.


Gotcha! but brian still painted the transom? or did he blend it?

Pismo
02-17-2010, 05:29 PM
The system you will get from Paul is the one where the rams mount about 4-5" from the edge of the TA, inside the rams. There you are in the thick part of the transom still. He knows what length rams you need. The Shelby system. I have close up pictures somewhere and will post it.

Carl C
02-17-2010, 06:45 PM
Gotcha! but brian still painted the transom? or did he blend it?

Brian painted the yellow on the transom but all of the yellow on my boat was painted from the factory. Still, I get your point about it maybe only pulling the paint off.


The system you will get from Paul is the one where the rams mount about 4-5" from the edge of the TA, inside the rams. There you are in the thick part of the transom still. He knows what length rams you need. The Shelby system. I have close up pictures somewhere and will post it.

I've already talked with Paul and he will get me fixed up. I'll make sure he knows that I have dual ram tabs. They also have a choice of 3", 5" or 8" helm. (inches from dash)

yeller
02-17-2010, 08:09 PM
They also have a choice of 3", 5" or 8" helm. (inches from dash)
I'd take the 8". I believe mine is 5~6", but I would prefer something longer because I like to sit further back. It's just personal preference.

....and you don't want more than 3 turns in the wheel if you can get away with it. I think stock, you're only about 2, correct?

osur866
02-17-2010, 10:51 PM
Mine are 8" on an 18 with single ram bennetts, you can search last nov. Here and you can see pictures of my install, if I had a 22 with dual ram tabs I'd measure carefully before buying any length rams my 8" rams with single tabs was tight, just sayin

Carl C
02-18-2010, 07:13 AM
I'd take the 8". I believe mine is 5~6", but I would prefer something longer because I like to sit further back. It's just personal preference.

....and you don't want more than 3 turns in the wheel if you can get away with it. I think stock, you're only about 2, correct?

I'll have to sit in the boat and measure the distance now and decide which helm I want. And, yes, current steering wheel travel is only about 2 turns. No way I want to go up to 4! The 120 cc helm will be 3 or less according to Paul Everett.


Mine are 8" on an 18 with single ram bennetts, you can search last nov. Here and you can see pictures of my install, if I had a 22 with dual ram tabs I'd measure carefully before buying any length rams my 8" rams with single tabs was tight, just sayin

I will be referring to several threads here while doing this job. Thanks.

LKSD
02-19-2010, 07:43 AM
4200, no need for 5200.... ;)

Carl C
02-19-2010, 07:57 AM
4200, no need for 5200.... ;)

Sheesh, nothing is easy anymore. Jamie, I give your opinion extra weight since you work on boats but I've also had people whom I respect greatly tell me to use the 5200. hmmmm. Whichever I choose there will be folks who will say I didn't do it right:nilly::nilly::nilly:.

LKSD
02-19-2010, 08:10 AM
The fasteners are doing the work. 5200 is overkill for reasons already stated & I don't recommend it for reasons already stated. It wont seal any better than 4200. All you need to do is seal it with a good quality sealer. Dont be mislead, as the 4200 stuff is plenty tough as well. It is just easier to remove than 5200 if you ever had too. If you prepped the surface for the sealer properly & you ever have to remove it, it is not uncommon to use a cus word or two in removing the 4200 as well.. I would recommend using the 5200 on things for permanent bonding like planking the bottom of a boat for example.. ;) Hope this helps.. :) Jamie

zelatore
02-19-2010, 11:48 AM
The fasteners are doing the work. 5200 is overkill for reasons already stated & I don't recommend it for reasons already stated. It wont seal any better than 4200. All you need to do is seal it with a good quality sealer. Dont be mislead, as the 4200 stuff is plenty tough as well. It is just easier to remove than 5200 if you ever had too. If you prepped the surface for the sealer properly & you ever have to remove it, it is not uncommon to use a cus word or two in removing the 4200 as well.. I would recommend using the 5200 on things for permanent bonding like planking the bottom of a boat for example.. ;) Hope this helps.. :) Jamie

What he said.

A lot of people seem to always reach for 5200 because it's the baddest mother on the shelf. Why not get the 'best'? Well, because there's a tool for every job, and bigger isn't always better.

Frankly, either one will do the job. I truthfully can't remember which I used when I did my Zieger - probably depended on what I had in the garage at the time...

LKSD
02-19-2010, 12:10 PM
What he said.

A lot of people seem to always reach for 5200 because it's the baddest mother on the shelf. Why not get the 'best'? Well, because there's a tool for every job, and bigger isn't always better.

Frankly, either one will do the job. I truthfully can't remember which I used when I did my Zieger - probably depended on what I had in the garage at the time...

Exactly... ;)

handfulz28
02-19-2010, 12:13 PM
Why would one use an "adhesive" to do the job of a "sealer"?

What do the boat builders use? What does Zieger recommend?

Carl C
02-19-2010, 12:55 PM
Why would one use an "adhesive" to do the job of a "sealer"?

What do the boat builders use? What does Zieger recommend?

From the responses I am getting most boat builders use 5200. I will ask what Zeiger recommends when i order the kit within two weeks.

gcarter
02-19-2010, 04:43 PM
Carl, think about it.......
If you were to glue your gimbal housing on to your transom w/5200, and then you had to remove it, and you will sooner or later, what would you do?
For about 15 minutes you'd try to get it off and then you'd be on this and other forums asking how to break the bond. You'd take a poll or two. You'd have people going crazy for a week or two. In the mean time, you would be wringing you hands, cursing, and asking yourself why in the world you sealed the housing onto your transom.
Then ask yourself this.....are there four bolts on each bracket? Are the four bolts torqued correctly?
Is there any chance of the bolts loosening?
Are the four bolts more than strong enough to do the job?
If the answer to these questions "YES" except for question 4, don't use 5200. All you need is something to keep the water out.
So, don't use 5200 unless you follow my suggestion on response #5.

Carl C
02-19-2010, 04:52 PM
Good points. I will weigh everything out and make a decision. Remember MadPoodle? He said go with 5200. I will see what Paul Everett says too. Thanks for all of the input. I really like the SS tube insert thingy!