PDA

View Full Version : Trailer work



brwn234
01-11-2010, 10:14 AM
I'm planning on going over my trailer and replacing alot of the really badly rusted and corroded hardware sometime in early spring. Alot of the u bolts are looking pretty bad. With my first kid arriving in the next few weeks I've got safety on my mind.
Everything is original except for the disc brakes which I added about 3 years ago. I'm planning on replacing all 4 leaf springs, both equilizers, all bolts for springs and equilizers, u bolts and tie plates for both axles. I think all the hangers still look good but I'll have to crawl around and take a better look. Any advice? Anything I've overlooked? Trailer is 2000 alluminum Fastload carrying a 2000 22ZX.

VetteLT193
01-11-2010, 10:22 AM
Advice... use stainless hardware and most of the work will be done for the last time.

If you are doing all those other parts you may as well do the bunks too.

There is a lot of load in the front where the two sides come together as one so check that bracket well.

PB Blaster and a torch will help get the old stuff off. Saws-all with a hacksaw blade helps the most.:bonk:

brwn234
01-11-2010, 10:34 AM
Everything on the trailer frame itself is stainless fastners. I'll just snug that stuff up and double check. Everything below the spring hangers will be replaced or thouroughly inspected. I'm trying to figure out if I can safely do all the work with the boat still on the trailer or take it off. I'm still trying to figure that one out.

gonzojessie
01-11-2010, 04:13 PM
If you can get the boat off it will save some time and dust, rust, and sparks in the eyes(we all wear proper safety gear to keep the crud out of our eyes). I did my trailer last summer. It all started just to replace 1 center roller, and ended up rebuilding the whole trailer! if it had a bolt it was replaced.....I never really put much thought(or expense) in to trailers until I sat down and thought about all the time work and MONEY we put into our boats, then haul em' down the road on a broken(fixin' to break trailer).

CHACHI
01-11-2010, 04:28 PM
Brake lines, both steel and rubber.

Is the trailer dunked in fresh or salt water?

Ken

MOP
01-11-2010, 04:39 PM
Has it been in salt, if so nine years on the axles it is time for a very careful inspection they rot from the inside out.

brwn234
01-12-2010, 12:23 PM
Freshwater mostly, a couple times brackish. Oh and I did live in Pompano Beach for 6 months till I ran out of money. I've flush and rinsed off the trailer everytime regardless of saltwater or not. The hardware is not that bad the only thing that really concerns me is the leaf springs. But I figure if I'm there I might as well do it an have peace of mind and do it all. I can get a whole tandem equilizer hardware kit for about $140 to $150. Greasable bolts too. Springs about $25 to $30 a piece.

RPD
01-12-2010, 01:52 PM
AS for post #4 .... I have always put as much quality into the trailer as the boat (not flashy paint, as some do, but quality, "overbuilt" and heavy duty construction).... having a fine boat on a junk trailer is like having a fine automobile if front of a tract house ..... and it pays for itself .... my first trailer for my Donzi lasted 32 years and I've NEVER been on fresh water ...

As for the axles .... go with torsion axles if you can... they give you an all independent suspension which is really softer for the boat .... I did on my last trailer and I love them..

VetteLT193
01-12-2010, 01:54 PM
AS for post #4 .... I have always put as much quality into the trailer as the boat (not flashy paint, as some do, but quality, "overbuilt" and heavy duty construction).... having a fine boat on a junk trailer is like having a fine automobile if front of a tract house ..... and it pays for itself .... my first trailer for my Donzi lasted 32 years and I've NEVER been on fresh water ...
As for the axles .... go with torsion axles if you can... they give you an all independent suspension which is really softer for the boat .... I did on my last trailer and I love them..

where are you out of? Your avatar pic looks like East coast of FL.

RPD
01-12-2010, 02:47 PM
Pensacola ... and it's been COLD here lately!

VetteLT193
01-12-2010, 02:55 PM
Pensacola ... and it's been COLD here lately!

Ditto on the cold part from over here in Tallahassee.

We really need to do a N. Fla run sometime this year. There seem to be plenty of us.

In the red
01-12-2010, 07:43 PM
Vette,
Are any of you going to do the Jax Firefighters Run?

RPD
01-13-2010, 06:56 AM
Ditto on the cold part from over here in Tallahassee.
We really need to do a N. Fla run sometime this year. There seem to be plenty of us.


Yeah .... I think a group went to Destin last year and I thought about making it, but Destin is such a tourist trap ....

VetteLT193
01-13-2010, 07:49 AM
Vette,
Are any of you going to do the Jax Firefighters Run?

I just looked it up. It is a bit on the pricey side. It seems over the last few years poker runs have gotten a bit out of hand when it comes to entrance fees. :bonk:

Team Jefe
01-17-2010, 12:30 PM
Good advice all around. A couple of high points from a guy who does ALOT of trailering.

1. Replace all the suspension hardware, even teh hangers and even if they look good. you have it apart already so do it,

2. Sawzall and hacksaw blame is the best advice yet. When I did mine, Scot held out on me that he had one in the shop...it is a MUSH HAVE.

3. Take the boat off...it is 100% easier to get to everything.

Same as everyone, I believe in an overbuilt trailer so check everything and repalce anything that is the least bit suspect....it is small change to haveing something come apart at 70MPH on the highway.

gcarter
01-17-2010, 01:35 PM
[quote=Team Jefe;553586]
3. Take the boat off...it is 100% easier to get to everything.
quote]

YES! YES! YES!
And it's easy to do w/o a lot of tools and equipment.

brwn234
01-18-2010, 02:27 PM
Does anybody have a spare tire mount on an aluminum I beam trailer? I want to buy or make one. I'm thinking about making one with a spindle and mounting an extra hub and spare tire on it. Wouldnt be aluminum but i could paint it gray to match. Anybody have any ideas or pics of theirs?

gcarter
01-18-2010, 02:30 PM
I mounted a spare tire w/an extra long U-bolt to the frame up near the bow.

Tidbart
01-18-2010, 04:23 PM
Spare everything on this type.

jg480
01-18-2010, 07:13 PM
Not trying to hi jack you here but does anyone know where you can get cypress for new bunks?

gcarter
01-18-2010, 07:20 PM
Spare everything on this type.
Bob, I like that!:yes:

Tidbart
01-18-2010, 07:50 PM
Bob, I like that!:yes:

Too bad I just changed the axle to a different manufacturer and rendered the unit useless. :boggled::bonk: Bolt patterns, or something else is now different. Now it's just an expensive spare tire carrier. :eek:

justleft
01-18-2010, 07:51 PM
Spare everything on this type.

I love the grease fittings !

brwn234
01-18-2010, 08:25 PM
Not trying to hi jack you here but does anyone know where you can get cypress for new bunks?

Not a problem, thats my next area to tackle. I've read on another forum some guys just use pressure treated lumber. I'd be kinda skeptical as I would have to double mine up with about 3 pieces of 2x10 or 2x12 sandwhiched together to equal the dimensions of the old cypress bunks I have now.

CHACHI
01-19-2010, 06:16 AM
When I rebuilt my MYCO trailer for my MINX, I used pressure treated lumber, but my bunks laid flat.

I am guessing that your bunks are on end.

When I installed the bunks for my boat lift (on end) I went to a local lumber mill (upstate NY) and they custom sawed a wood called Larch. Personally I have never heard of it, but a lot of docks and cribs in our area are constructed from it.

Check with local saw mills. If they can't get it, they may be able to point you in the right direction.

Ken

CHACHI
01-19-2010, 06:29 AM
Larch is a wood (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wood) valued for its tough, waterproof (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Waterproof) and durable qualities; top quality knot-free timber is in great demand for building yachts (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Yacht) and other small boats (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Boat), for exterior cladding of buildings and interior panelling. The timber is resistant to rot when in contact with the ground, and is suitable for use as posts and in fencing. The hybrid Dunkeld Larch is widely grown as a timber (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Timber) crop in northern Europe, valued for its fast growth and disease resistance.


Ken

RPD
01-19-2010, 07:09 PM
brwn234:

i wouldn't be averse to the idea of laminating two together with epoxy .... it should be dimensionally more stable than a single piece and every bit as strong ... as for cypress, it used to be pretty common around here (i haven't looked for any lately) but shipping it would make it too expensive to be worthwhile ... i've seen lots of trailers lately with plastic bunks, kind of like the fake wood decking .... i think that's what i'll try when i need new bunks, no rot .... i don't know how it will hold up to uv light but since they don't carpet it at least it will be easily inspected ...

Greg Guimond
01-19-2010, 07:27 PM
I wonder if IPE would make for a good custom bunk..........

CHACHI
01-20-2010, 05:58 AM
I wonder if IPE would make for a good custom bunk..........

Wouldn't be cheap.
Ken

Cuda
01-20-2010, 06:58 AM
I'm planning on going over my trailer and replacing alot of the really badly rusted and corroded hardware sometime in early spring. Alot of the u bolts are looking pretty bad. With my first kid arriving in the next few weeks I've got safety on my mind.
Everything is original except for the disc brakes which I added about 3 years ago. I'm planning on replacing all 4 leaf springs, both equilizers, all bolts for springs and equilizers, u bolts and tie plates for both axles. I think all the hangers still look good but I'll have to crawl around and take a better look. Any advice? Anything I've overlooked? Trailer is 2000 alluminum Fastload carrying a 2000 22ZX.
I have a 1988 Fastload that I did the same work to.

Cuda
01-20-2010, 07:03 AM
Advice... use stainless hardware and most of the work will be done for the last time.
If you are doing all those other parts you may as well do the bunks too.
There is a lot of load in the front where the two sides come together as one so check that bracket well.
PB Blaster and a torch will help get the old stuff off. Saws-all with a hacksaw blade helps the most.:bonk:
Fastload made the bunks from cypress. They will never rot out. I replaced the carpet on them a couple years ago, and the bunks were as solid as the day they were installed. The V-bunk was made of pressure treated wood, and the only thing holding it togther was the carpet. I redid the carpet, put new fenders on it, and called it good. I had rebuilt the undercarriage a couple years before. I did the undercarriage with the boat still on the trailer. I launched it at a park when I did the bunks.

Cuda
01-20-2010, 07:06 AM
Has it been in salt, if so nine years on the axles it is time for a very careful inspection they rot from the inside out.
Yes, that's a fact I learned pulling my dad's boat. The tongue was 3 inch steel, and looked fine. I rusted from the inside. I had to make a "splint" to get the boat home, then replaced the pipe.

Cuda
01-20-2010, 07:09 AM
I just looked it up. It is a bit on the pricey side. It seems over the last few years poker runs have gotten a bit out of hand when it comes to entrance fees. :bonk:
The Jax Firefighter Run was probably the most fun I've had on a poker run, and I've been to quite a few.

Cuda
01-20-2010, 07:11 AM
Not trying to hi jack you here but does anyone know where you can get cypress for new bunks?
Axley Brothers in St Pete has them. I gave some away when I moved. :(

Cuda
01-20-2010, 07:14 AM
brwn234:
i wouldn't be averse to the idea of laminating two together with epoxy .... it should be dimensionally more stable than a single piece and every bit as strong ... as for cypress, it used to be pretty common around here (i haven't looked for any lately) but shipping it would make it too expensive to be worthwhile ... i've seen lots of trailers lately with plastic bunks, kind of like the fake wood decking .... i think that's what i'll try when i need new bunks, no rot .... i don't know how it will hold up to uv light but since they don't carpet it at least it will be easily inspected ...
I assure you that PT wood will rot. The PT wood isn't as good as years gone by, and it was no magic bullet then.

NJFASTECH
01-20-2010, 07:30 AM
I assure you that PT wood will rot. The PT wood isn't as good as years gone by, and it was no magic bullet then.

There are different levels of PT lumber if you use marine grade it will take the abuse 25 plus years. 3x8's or 3x10's should be readily availible.Draw back imo is weight them buggers will be heavy:eek:

And any good local lumber yard could bring in cypress for you it is all over the south:wink:

brwn234
01-20-2010, 07:57 AM
Cuda, I'm trying to figure out the easiest/best way to lift the trailer to replace everything. Did you jack up and block the whole trailer or just the side you were working on?

My cypress bunks are solid up top and soft and mushy twoard the rear bottom about 1 inch up. When I replace them I'll only carpet the top half that the boat rides on and keep the bottom exposed so it dries out quicker.

I've considered replacing everything with torsion axles. The cost of replacing all the hardware is equivalent to one new torsion axle. That in mind I think I'm going to just replace the springs and hardware and save some money to replace my junky 3 year old tie down disc brakes with Kodiaks. I've never really had a problem with the way the trailer rides on the leaf springs so why not just keep it like it is.

VetteLT193
01-20-2010, 08:18 AM
Cuda, I'm trying to figure out the easiest/best way to lift the trailer to replace everything. Did you jack up and block the whole trailer or just the side you were working on?

My cypress bunks are solid up top and soft and mushy twoard the rear bottom about 1 inch up. When I replace them I'll only carpet the top half that the boat rides on and keep the bottom exposed so it dries out quicker.

I've considered replacing everything with torsion axles. The cost of replacing all the hardware is equivalent to one new torsion axle. That in mind I think I'm going to just replace the springs and hardware and save some money to replace my junky 3 year old tie down disc brakes with Kodiaks. I've never really had a problem with the way the trailer rides on the leaf springs so why not just keep it like it is.

I like springs better. Torsions are only good if your trailer is overkill for the boat. If you really load up torsion axles the tires wear funny. If you really load springs the tires wear normal.

Most trailer manufacturers use torsions now so that is what I currently have. I made sure I got a triple axle instead of dual axle so I don't have any issues because I am well under the weight limit of the trailer.

NJFASTECH
01-20-2010, 07:21 PM
I wonder if IPE would make for a good custom bunk..........

I have some IPE in the yard did a 4500 sq.ft. deck for a customer and have some good and some dunnage left. With all the pvc stuff out there why bother this stuff it is pure maintenance and rquires constant attention.And yes crazy exspensive. Let it grow!

Lignum vitae on the other hand makes for interesting reading. cool stuff my family tree traces well into the 1800's with ship building. BTW hardest wood known to man.:wink:

NJFASTECH
01-20-2010, 07:34 PM
I know it is off the subject but http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lignum_vitae

BRWN34
Jack the rear end of the boat block it and move to the mid section jack and block you may have to do it a few times to clear trailer crossmembers as you pull the trailer out. 3 point system 2 at transom 1 @ 3/4 keel

Tony
01-20-2010, 08:58 PM
Here are a few other candidates, besides ironwood (Lignum Vitae):

Snakewood (Piratinera guianensis)

Osage Orange, Horse-apple, Bois D'Arc, or Bodark (Maclura pomifera)

brwn234
03-22-2010, 08:13 AM
Ok, so while I'm gathering all my parts to redo my trailer I'm going over how I'm going to tackle this. One thing that keeps going through my mind is aligning the axles. How do I keep everything aligned when I removed the ties plates from the springs and axles?

CHACHI
03-22-2010, 10:55 AM
No locating pins in the bottom of the axle to locate the spring?

Ken

MOP
03-22-2010, 11:46 AM
Ken has you covered the center bolt in the spring extends through and nests in the pad, it will all go back the way it came apart.

brwn234
03-22-2010, 12:05 PM
I'm kinda unclear on this so I'm sorry. Wont the axle be able to move left to right when I loosen the tie plate bolts? The axle is 2"x2" square tubing. I'm probably over thinking it. Any pictures of what your talking about to ease my concerns?

Dr. David Fleming
03-22-2010, 12:23 PM
So the Deacon inquired of the village folk
Were he could find the strongest oak,
That couldn't be split or bent or broke, -
That was for spokes and floor and sills;
He sent for lancewood to make the thills;

The crossbars were ash, from the straightest trees,
The panels of white-wood that cuts like cheese,
But last like iron for thins like these;
The hubs of logs from the "Settler's ellum," -
Last of its timber, - they couldn't sell 'em,

Never an axe had seen their chips,
And the wedges flew from between their lips,
Their blun ends frizzled like celery-tips;
Step and prop-iron, bolt and screw,
Spring, tire, axle, and litchpin too,
Steel of the finest, bright and blue;

Thoroughbrace of bison-skin, thick and wide;
Boot, top, dasher, from tough old hide
Found in the pit when the tanner died.
That was the way he "put her through."
"There!" said the Deacon, "naow she'll dew!"

Oliver Wendell Holmes

CHACHI
03-22-2010, 12:56 PM
I'm kinda unclear on this so I'm sorry. Wont the axle be able to move left to right when I loosen the tie plate bolts? The axle is 2"x2" square tubing. I'm probably over thinking it. Any pictures of what your talking about to ease my concerns?
Look under the spring pad/axle mount. You should see a pin (from the axle) located in a hole in the plate.

As soon as you take it apart the light will come on. Do not worry.

Ken

brwn234
03-22-2010, 03:59 PM
Sweet! I always seem to over complicate things.

brwn234
03-29-2010, 09:24 AM
Currently I've got 4 2000lb springs on two 3000lb axles. Weak link being the axles. Should I buy 4 1500lb springs and match the axle and spring capacity? Or will it ride like crap on lighter springs compared to now?

Sorry for all the questions, I've never dealt with trailer hardware asside from bearings, tires and brakes.

VetteLT193
03-29-2010, 09:38 AM
Currently I've got 4 2000lb springs on two 3000lb axles. Weak link being the axles. Should I buy 4 1500lb springs and match the axle and spring capacity? Or will it ride like crap on lighter springs compared to now?

Sorry for all the questions, I've never dealt with trailer hardware asside from bearings, tires and brakes.

That is usually how it is. I can't figure a reason why you would have heavier springs than axles.

The lighter leafs will have more give. It should ride better because the load will be more suited to the spring. If your springs are too heavy they don't give at all so the trailer bounces over bumps instead of absorbing the shock.