Bennett trim tab gauge rework

[DickB]

I started designing my right-side dash panel and had pulled the depth and trim tab gauges in preparation. This summer I had noticed that my Bennett tab gauge face was delaminating from the back of the glass, so while I had the gauge out I took it apart to have a look. I suspect Bennett would have done right by me on this, but I thought I could fix it an also make some modifications to my liking.

As all my other gauges are white, I though that this one should be too. Then I figured I'd make the graphics mach the Gaffrig II gauges better. I'm not done, but I think this is the way I am going.

Before I reinstall the gauge, I'm going to make a green bezel to match the others. I'm also going to add a circuit to set the default LED brightness to high. Currently it defaults to a mid brightness and unfortunately resets to that whenever power is turned off. I mostly operate in daylight, and it's a bit annoying to have to reset the brightness on every start-up.

[The Hedgehog]

How are you doing it?

[CHACHI]

The people on this board never cease to amaze me.

Excellent job Dick.

Ken

[DickB]

How are you doing it?
I picked up an inexpensive Silhouette SD paper and vinyl cutting machine a few months ago. It works a bit like an ink-jet printer, only instead of moving an ink head over the medium it moves a blade. The software lets you design graphics and cuts You can import bitmaps and jpegs, and the software can automatically convert image "edges" into cut paths. You can create a design with both printed graphics and cuts. The software produces an image to route to any printer, along with alignment marks for the cut machine. You feed the printed page into the cut machine, it locates the alignment marks, and mates the cut paths to the image.

I scanned the old face plate with my HP all-in-one and the edited the image with Paint to remove the defects. I used the Silhouette software to create cut paths from the scanned image for the LED cutouts and the face plate shape. I cut and pasted the Bennett logo from an on-line instruction manual, created the simple graphics in Paint, and used the closest to Gaffrig True Type font that I could find. For now, I'm fabricating the face plate with paper, but I may pick up some light card stock. I will spray some matte clear font and back for moisture and UV protection.

I painted the gauge body with Krylon Fusion spray can - it's purpose-made to adhere to plastic. I will use the gauge body as a template to cut a bezel from some thin wood, maybe Masonite, then use a wood rasp and sandpaper to create a bevel. I'll coat this with epoxy, sand, and paint with Krylon green (same paint used on the other bezels, which were originally powder-coated black.)

The LED brightness is set by repeatedly pressing either of the two buttons, one for brighter and one for dimmer. It takes three or four presses of the Bright button to get max brightness. I'll build a circuit to wire in parallel with the switch. It will do its thing on power up, then go to sleep. For us electrical guys, this is a simple circuit using a mutivibrator gated by a one-shot. I already built a similar circuit for the brake light of my scooter. When you hit the brake, the brake light flashes three times, then comes on steady to draw a bit more attention.

[DickB]

One of my other projects is over here: http://www.donzi.net/forums/showthread.php?t=60680 I used the Silhouette machine and software to recreate the original Wetbike and Arctic logos. I will also use it to make 1/4 scale Donzi graphics for my model Donzi: http://www.donzi.net/forums/showthread.php?t=47503&highlight=fastest+donzi+model

[realbold]

That reworked gauge is an absolute work of art.:yes:

[gcarter]

That is very, very neat!:yes:

[The Hedgehog]

That is way cool.

I have had good luck with Krylon Fusion.

[PlumCrazy]

Before I reinstall the gauge, I'm going to make a green bezel to match the others.

Wood?

[DickB]

Yes. I fabricated it this morning and have a coat of epoxy curing on it now.

[DickB]

This is my design for the right-side dash panel to match the left/center that I did last year. Depth and tabs gauges on top; captain's call and tab switches on the bottom.

[silverghost]

No matter what you coat it with~ I would never use masonite on a boat.
This board will swell-up and fall apart if any moisture or humidity hits it no matter what you coat it with.
I had friend that used non-marine plywood to build a motorbox. Looked fantastic when finished and fiberglassed ...It lasted one season before de-laminating and falling apart..
Masonite is only a little better than cardboard.
I would use plastic,, plexiglass, metal, or solid wood such as teak.
Just my to cents~
Great Re-building job on the new white face-plate.

[Planetwarmer]

So, how is the RC model of the Donzi coming along?

[DickB]

No matter what you coat it with~ I would never use masonite on a boat.
You're right. I used solid wood.


Looked fantastic when finished and fiberglassed ...It lasted one season before de-laminating and falling apart.
From what I have read, people tried using fiberglass resin over wood not long after fiberglass came on the scene, for example on the bottom of a traditional wood boat, and found it didn't work well. Epoxy resin seems to work better for boat building with wood.

[DickB]

Just put a coat of epoxy on it after the photo was taken.

[DickB]

I added some icons to the new switches, in a similar style as the original switches.

[Greg Guimond]

Impressive work !

[CHACHI]

OK, I will bite.

How did you add the icons and did you clear coat them?

Ken

[mike o]

Just put a coat of epoxy on it after the photo was taken. I have a weathered standard 2 switch bennet dash board switch. I like the looks of Dicks unit with the lighted indicators. Does anybody if they have the same wiring and are interchangeable?

[DickB]

OK, I will bite.

How did you add the icons and did you clear coat them?

Ken
I drew them up using Paint, imported the drawings to the Silhouette SD software, used the software feature to convert to cut paths, cut stencils in vinyl, then dabbed permanent marker on through the stencils. I have some clear coat paint, but I'm debating on using it. The permanent marker seems quite durable.The surface of these switches has a satin finish with a light texture to it, and seems to hold the marker ink very well. In fact I got a small dab of marker outside one of the stencils, and spent several minutes cleaning it up with paint thinner immediately after the ink was applied, so I think it will hold up.

[DickB]

I have a weathered standard 2 switch Bennett dash board switch. I like the looks of Dicks unit with the lighted indicators. Does anybody if they have the same wiring and are interchangeable?
The unit that I have is indicators only, no switches. The indicators require special tab actuators with sending coils in them. I'm replacing my standard Bennett switch with the white DPDT switches that you see in the photos.

Bennett now offers two styles of switches and an integrated switch and indicator panel. The switches should be interchangeable with yours, but the indicators require the sending units which come with the indicator kits.
http://www.bennetttrimtabs.com/images/prodImg/Waterproof%20Rocker%20Switch,%20LS3000.jpghttp://www.bennetttrimtabs.com/images/prodImg/ES2000.jpghttp://www.bennetttrimtabs.com/images/prodImg/EIC5000.jpg

[mike o]

Dick, thank you:kingme:. I have the top switch pictured, its just a little weathered. Ill touch mine up somehow. Your a very clever fella..........:yes: FYI, MAS brand epoxy happens to handles the UV the best of all the other brands of epoxies......... M

[DickB]

I finally got the boat out of storage and installed the starboard-side dash. This completes my dash project. Although that white-framed stereo cover is looking a little out of place...