Stringer measurements

[onesubdrvr]

Ok,...

I've got the garage clean,... and organized ;) , so I will be replacing the transom and stringers soon,.... going to start cutting this Thanksgiving. Anyway, as I'm sitting here considering my plan, one thing I'm doing is updating the engine from a Ford / Volvo package to a Chevy / Bravo package. My question is:

Is the distance between the stringers on a 16 the same for a Ford as they are a Chevy? I mean, I can have the new brackets fabricated, but if I should move them, I should do it when I cut the old ones out for replacement.

Thanks
Wayne

[MOP]

Wayne was it originally an H/M setup? I just pulled an H/M apart a few weeks back the stringers on it were a lot farther apart then the late model stuff. For instance my stringers are 23" apart, the one I just pulled apart had to be 28-30 inches.

Phil

[onesubdrvr]

Wayne was it originally an H/M setup? I just pulled an H/M apart a few weeks back the stringers on it were a lot farther apart then the late model stuff. For instance my stringers are 23" apart, the one I just pulled apart had to be 28-30 inches.

Phil

You know, we're really not sure yet,... I haven't been able to find the hull number yet; but what we're thinking is that it was originally an "Eaton badged 289" updated to a H/M 302 package

You've got a SB in yours, so I'll measure the 16 tomorrow, and see how far apart they are,.. I'd say they are close to 23 off the top of my head, but I will double check.

Thanks
Wayne

[BlownCrewCab]

I have a triple hatch sitting out in the yard with the deck off, It had a small block ford in it. if you want I can go measure it. let me know.

[MOP]

Wayne if you intend to use late style mounts the narrower dimension is better, it will stop some of the bottom flex between the stringers. On the 22 496 boats they spread the stringers which let them lower the engine to clear the risers but induced porpoising and the bottoms cracked on quite a few.

[Just Say N20]

My 16 is was built in April of 1967. I don't know what engine was originally in it, but it currently has a Volvo SBC coupled to a Volvo 290 outdrive.

I just replaced my stringers. They were/are 24" exactly from inside surface to inside surface. They are also 8" tall.

My engine has solid, "custom" mounts, but regardless, the original stringer distance was 24" between them. This picture was taken very early on in my project, but you can see the mounts. A flat piece that mounted to the stringer, and a piece that held the triangle that bolts to the block.

[bobwpe]

Hi Wayne,

My stringers are at 23 1/2" and his is what I went through to get my sbc to fit: http://www.donzi.net/forums/showthread.php?t=48722 Even if you are at 24" like N20 you will still need to modify the mounts a little. Have fun. :wink:

Bob

[MOP]

Hi Wayne,

My stringers are at 23 1/2" and his is what I went through to get my sbc to fit: http://www.donzi.net/forums/showthread.php?t=48722 Even if you are at 24" like N20 you will still need to modify the mounts a little. Have fun. :wink:

Bob

Interesting that this has happened to a few, my 16 had a late model Ford/Cobra setup. I had no issues with the mounts when I redid the engine. My 22's mounts sit on top of the stringers, that I believe is due to the High X on my boat. Frankly instead of fighting with high single ply stringers why not go a couple of inches lower with doubled stringers in hte engine bay that sure would make life easier.

[onesubdrvr]

Mine are 23 3/4" apart, inside to inside, so the important thing is that I don't have to move the stringers :)

Thank goodness :)

Wayne

[HOWARD O]

Wayne, I'm curious why you chose to use a Bravo drive on a 16? Certainly would be bulletproof with SBC, but wouldn't you save a lot of weight with an Alpha ss? I don't know myself, I was just curious of your reasoning.

[onesubdrvr]

Wayne, I'm curious why you chose to use a Bravo drive on a 16? Certainly would be bulletproof with SBC, but wouldn't you save a lot of weight with an Alpha ss? I don't know myself, I was just curious of your reasoning.
I may yet go with an Alpha ss.

My primary reason for going Bravo is tunability. I'm making DRASTIC changes to weight distribution / power / etc., and with the Bravo, I can play with different lowers,... I can try the BlackHawk, a B3, -1", -2" shorties, etc. My thinking, is that though it will be more expensive, I'm more likely able to get it tweaked right with a Bravo drive, and thus not have wasted all of my time on changing things and end up with something that handles like a turd.

Of secondary note, I plan on 400 +/- hp in the long run, so I definitely want the drive to handle it. I may start with an Alpha and a 4.3l just to see how everything works out, then move to the V-8 and a Bravo if I feel the ride can benefit from it, and that the speed remain controlable.

Volvo isn't entirely out of the question either, I really like Volvo drives, but the lack of tunability / etc. is a pain.

So, there you go, in a nutshell why I'm planning a Bravo.

Thanks :D
Wayne

[MOP]

Wayne think your drive system out carefully it gets expensive quick changing your mind later, there is pros and cons with all. IMO durability is key, build it so it is hard to break! Some apps will be either a tad faster or slower, stronger is always better in the long run.

[onesubdrvr]

Wayne think your drive system out carefully it gets expensive quick changing your mind later, there is pros and cons with all. IMO durability is key, build it so it is hard to break! Some apps will be either a tad faster or slower, stronger is always better in the long run.
I hear 'ya Phil, and I agree, stronger is better,... I'd rather loose 2-3mph top speed and never break down on the water like I did before lol

I know it may sound wasteful, but I'm thinking about picking up a used Alpha / V6 combo for testing - they are a dime a dozen and cheap; If everything works out well, then I can pick up a good Bravo drive and a V-8.

However, there is a long way to go until I'm at that point, so who know what will happen ;)

Thanks!
Wayne