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jonzis donzi
11-19-2009, 02:37 PM
I have a 1990 sweet 16. The hatch cover doesn't have enough arch in it to fit correctly. I wonder if it flattened out possibly because it may have been left open 180 degrees all winter before I got it or if these just tend to flatten out over the years. I want to try weighting both sides heavily with it in the closed position to try to regain the proper arch. Anyone had to do this before, or will it not work? It sticks up about 3/4 of an inch on both sides right now.

gcarter
11-19-2009, 03:08 PM
I have a 1990 sweet 16. The hatch cover doesn't have enough arch in it to fit correctly. I wonder if it flattened out possibly because it may have been left open 180 degrees all winter before I got it or if these just tend to flatten out over the years. I want to try weighting both sides heavily with it in the closed position to try to regain the proper arch. Anyone had to do this before, or will it not work? It sticks up about 3/4 of an inch on both sides right now.
I don't know if that will work in a few months or not.
It's easy enough to fix, but it's also sort of brutal.
In short, fabricate some small angles to be bolted onto the P & S inner sides of the hatch edges. W/the hatch upside down on a work surface, make some longitudinal scarf cuts into and almost through the inner hatch coring.
Attach the angles to the hatch sides (you'll have to drill through the hatch to do so). Purchase some long pieces of threaded rod and feed them through holes of the vertical legs of the angles and retain w/nuts. Tighten the nuts until there's some tension on the rod(s).
Reinstall the hatch and while raising and lowering the hatch, continue to tighten the nuts until the arch is correct.
Remove the hatch and lay a course or two of glass on the inner surface of the hatch.
After glass is set up, remove the angles, fill the holes, and repair the gel outer surface.

Trueser
11-19-2009, 04:23 PM
Remove the hatch and place some sand bags in the middle while supporting the sides. wait 30 days and see if the curve comes back. I have done this on my old 22 and it worked for me.

thehow33
11-19-2009, 04:25 PM
Are talking about the rear corners aren't laying flush with the rest of the back of the boat? If so I was told to put some weight on the corners that are coming up or take the hatch off and lay it upside down with supports under the sides and put weight in the middle. I will be doing that to mine for the next 3 months or so while snow is on the ground. My 2 rear corners are coming up...However, I have a feeling that this is not a permanent fix so GCarter's way is probably better in the long run.

silverghost
11-19-2009, 04:29 PM
Great idea from GCarter above as your hatch seems to be flattened way out~
It might pay to turn it upside down on two 2"X 6" boards and place two or three bar or pipe style clamps (clamps set used with steel waterpipe) from side to side and slowly squeeze the sides over time. Place a 50-100 lb sand bag in the middle to force a new arch shape.
The reason it is bent is most likely because the inner wood core has bent taking the fiberglass skin with it.
George's idea of making scarf cuts front to back in the inner glass & wood core to help re-bend the core & hatch glass is a great one & a much faster & better long term fix~
Especially with the amount of correction you must make; 3/4" both sides is quite a bit !

MOP
11-19-2009, 05:21 PM
Ok lets make some old tricks work here, before you take anything apart do some measuring to see just how much it sticks up from the deck. Ok now the way the company I worked for did it was to chock the hatch up in the middle the distance of the measurements the corners were up from the deck plus 1/3 of an inch. Then put sand bags along the outer edges about 40-50lbs per side, once all setup place two heat lamps not spot light (HEAT LAMPS) 20 inches from the surface, check the surface temp with your hand it should feel like hot water no hotter. If the surface feels to hot raise the lamps a few inches! When corners touch the floor which can take a awhile then remove the heat and let sit at least overnight with the weight on. When you take the weight off the hatch will have a little spring back, but should be close to right never go for more floor gap the you need! It is better to take your time even if you have to do the setup over again. There is a chance the stripping tapes glue will get soft so do not touch the tapes until it cools down. If in fact the tape lifts in a few spots stick it back down when it cools the glue will be fine.

Phil

silverghost
11-19-2009, 10:54 PM
You can always have my aunt Ruth & cousin Kathy sit on each side of the hatch for you~

I'm sure they will straighten it out in no time for you!

They both like Donzi speedboat rides !

It will only cost you a large Pizza & milkshake each!
They work cheap !

Ghost
11-19-2009, 11:07 PM
You can always have my aunt Ruth & cousin Kathy sit on each side of the hatch for you~
I'm sure they will straighten it out in no time for you!
They both like Donzi speedboat rides !
It will only cost you a large Pizza & milkshake each!

No fair making me spit all over my keyboard! :)

Conquistador_del_mar
11-19-2009, 11:20 PM
Ok lets make some old tricks work here, before you take anything apart do some measuring to see just how much it sticks up from the deck. Ok now the way the company I worked for did it was to chock the hatch up in the middle the distance of the measurements the corners were up from the deck plus 1/3 of an inch. Then put sand bags along the outer edges about 40-50lbs per side, once all setup place two heat lamps not spot light (HEAT LAMPS) 20 inches from the surface, check the surface temp with your hand it should feel like hot water no hotter. If the surface feels to hot raise the lamps a few inches! When corners touch the floor which can take a awhile then remove the heat and let sit at least overnight with the weight on. When you take the weight off the hatch will have a little spring back, but should be close to right never go for more floor gap the you need! It is better to take your time even if you have to do the setup over again. There is a chance the stripping tapes glue will get soft so do not touch the tapes until it cools down. If in fact the tape lifts in a few spots stick it back down when it cools the glue will be fine.

Phil

For what it is worth, I have done the heat trick with fiberglass and it worked like a champ. In my case it was the rear corner tabs on a Corvette hood that were up too high. I had the hood off the car and slowly heated the tabs with a heat gun and used 2 blocks of wood laminated over the tabs with clamps as pry bars until I had the right angle after cooling. It is still holding the form. Bill

MOP
11-20-2009, 06:51 AM
Bill I have taken 3 deep inch impressions out of larges sail boats where the chain plates have been over tensioned, had to pull some cabinetry and use trucker load jacks inside. As you know the hulls are some thick in that area, a job like that can take a week or so of heat and of slow increase of tension plus putting the interior back together.

joseph m. hahnl
11-20-2009, 07:34 PM
I noticed that my Minx hatch moves with the temperature. when it is hot out all four corners are pretty close to being flush. when it's really cold they pull up. I was thinking it had something to do with the coring .