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AR-Cougar
11-19-2009, 10:29 AM
Last w/end I noticed a water intake when turning sharply to STB.
Once out of the watter, I inspected the "rub rail" and found the entry area (aprox 5 inches long) located almost where the windshield begins.

Any suggestions different to using a waterproof sealant?

Thanks

Forgive my ignorance / believe "rub rail" is the proper term for the union between the deck and the hull.:confused:

BlownCrewCab
11-19-2009, 10:49 AM
3M's 5200 is the best..... Just plain silicone will work fine....

gcarter
11-19-2009, 10:56 AM
Michael is right about 5200 being absolutely waterfroof.
However most sealing problems above the waterline don't require something so "permanent".
But as he also mentioned, RTV is a LOT easier to disassemble.

Conquistador_del_mar
11-19-2009, 11:05 AM
The rubrail is the protective metal, rubber, or vinyl strip that covers the lip of the deck where it overlaps the hull. Almost every boat has the deck attached to the the hull using pop rivets, self tapping screws or machine screws before the rubrail is installed. This is where the sealing is really done. It sounds like your deck and hull has separated a little which will allow water to enter there. The best solution would be to remove the strip of rubrail over that section first. If you simply tighten the fasteners, it will likely happen again so I would suggest that you remove the fasteners from the section that has the gap, lay a strip of tape on the hull and force clear silicone into the gap from underneath the overlap, and quickly attach the fasteners again. If you have a helper, I would set a few machine screws with nuts on the backside to some if not all of the loose section and tighten it back down. Now you can remove the excess after running that bead of silicone smooth and then remove the tape that will have protected the hull from the excess. Now you can reattach the rubrail. I suggest silicone since it can be removed later as opposed to 5200 which will be a bear to remove if the deck ever has to be removed. I hope this helps. Bill

AR-Cougar
11-19-2009, 12:56 PM
Thanks guys. Great help.

I'm not much of a do it yourself kind of person but must confess the forum does encourage me in that direction.

I'll probably go for Bill's clear silicone suggestion as it'll give me some space to amend/remove any first-timer mistakes.

Thanks again.
Pedro

gcarter
11-19-2009, 01:53 PM
If anyone didn't get my post, RTV is Room Temperature Vulcanizing clear silicone rubber. Which was originally invented and offered by GE.

MOP
11-19-2009, 02:00 PM
Okay have to chime in 5200 on a hull deck joint is bad news problem is if you ever have to take it apart you you can actually break the deck lip, 5200 is far too tenacious stick with silicone you're far better off in the long run.

Phil

silverghost
11-19-2009, 04:54 PM
I agree that 3M 5200 polyurethane adhesive would be bad to use here!
It is best used for very strong permanent stuctural repairs.
If used on this deck/hull seem it would make it almost impossible to pop-off the deck from the hull in the future for gas tank or future engine replacment!
The fiberglass or wood surface 3M 5200 is used on will fail before the adhesive calk itself!
I like 3M 5200 ~
But NOT for your repair & sealing job!