22 ZX Hatch Actuator Mount

[Top-Gun]

We just picked up a 1997 22ZX with a 454 MAG/B1. Spent the weekend cleaning and winterizing it and I noticed something that I'm wondering if any other ZX owners have experienced. The lower mount for the engine hatch actuator has nearly pulled out of the lower fiberglass bulkhead. I took the actuator/mount out of the boat to inspect and it looks like the original mount first failed for the previous owner, who then tried to beef the mount up by welding it to a larger plate and reaffix it with multiple screws. Unfortunatley, they used small diameter screws and all but two of them sheared clean off (it was literally hanging on by 2 tiny wood screws).

I think my best plan is to fabricate another lower mount out of some beefy plate steel or stainless, and fasten it with much larger diameter/length stainless screws, but I thought I'd ask if anyone has experienced this and if so what their fix was.

P.S. this may be a stupid question but does the key have to be on for the trim tabs to operate on these boats? I was testing the function of everything (didn't have the key on me so it was "off") and I had full drive trim/light function but the tabs would not operate?

Thanks

[MOP]

The tabs are usually on a separate cricuit, check for a fuse. You will have to trace teh hot lead front the switch panel to find it, it may just be bad or even the holder can be dirty. Normaly they are wired hot and do not need the key for power!

Phil

[Dr. David Fleming]

The 22ZX had three different type of mounts.

1. - Early 22ZX had a large tubular hinge that attached to the back of the hatch. This hinge which looked a bit like a large "jungle jim" had no external attachment points. Front attachment for the screw actuator lift was mounted central to the "firewall" near the bilge. The upper point of attachment was the bottom of the central rib of the hatch.

2. - Later 22ZX had two "pull apart hinges mounted externally and visible from the outside of the back of the boat. Front attachment was a screw actuator mounted central to the "firewall" near the bilge. The upper point of attachment was the bottom of the central rib of the hatch.

2. - European 22ZX which used the Volvo 7.4 or 8.2 engine (502 or 454MAG MPI with Arizona Speed and Marine fuel injection). Because this fuel injection system had the throttle placed where it would interfere with the central screw actuator lift location. This model used twin Uniflex screw lifts mounted outboard and wired to function together. The photo I have of this setup used the rear type 1. hinge.

Possible diagnosis of why your lift could be broken - the hatch may have been forced open to repair the lift system. If the power goes down in this system and the hatch is down there is no way to open the hatch to install a new battery or screw lift. When Donzi went to the type 2. "pull apart" hinge this hinge could be unbolted from the rear allowing the rear of the hatch to be lifted to some degree. Some Donzi owners have had to saw through the rear seat to unbolt the lower actuator mount. Later Donzi 22ZX had a pair of battery connections located in the rear seat to attach jumper cables or battery charger.

Electric power to the lift actuator should be on when the main battery switch in the rear seat is turned on.

[Top-Gun]

Mines the option #1 with the tubular rear hinge and single center hatch acctuator. I thought this seemed like a poor design, the actuator mounting brackets are very small given the huge weight of the hatch, and like you say if this thing ever fails your pretty much screwed. I'm wondering if in addition to beefing up and repairing the lower hatch acctuator mount, I can affix some sort of quick release pin to the top of the acctuator in case the motor ever dies.

Sorry I asked two completely separate questions in my first post, my second question was refering to the trim tab HPU and not the hatch acctuator. For some reason my trim tabs won't run with the key off (and I never tried them with the key on so I'm not sure if I have a problem or not). The boat has Bennett dual actuator tabs and I know they were added post production as the installer put the rocker switchs in a weird location (port side of the helm). I'm praying they wired them through switched 12V and nothings wrong with the HPU, they look to be pricey to replace.