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VetteLT193
11-13-2009, 10:32 AM
I am sick and tired of using the pole cover support. The bow cover has a spot that gets full of water with the pole up. The stern is fine, but a total PITA to get the pole up and get out of the boat.

So... I tied a line to the bow cleat and ran it over the windshield. I looped two more lines to it and tied them off on the back two cleats so I made a Y shape out of the lines up and over the windshield. I put the cover on, and all seems to be working as planned. The cover is supported and I can take the cover on/off without dealing with stupid poles.

It hasn't rained hard yet so I'll report back after it does with results. I hope all is well so I can continue to use this method. I thought others might be interested in doing the same thing which is why I posted :)

Ghost
11-13-2009, 12:30 PM
I am sick and tired of using the pole cover support. The bow cover has a spot that gets full of water with the pole up. The stern is fine, but a total PITA to get the pole up and get out of the boat.

So... I tied a line to the bow cleat and ran it over the windshield. I looped two more lines to it and tied them off on the back two cleats so I made a Y shape out of the lines up and over the windshield. I put the cover on, and all seems to be working as planned. The cover is supported and I can take the cover on/off without dealing with stupid poles.

It hasn't rained hard yet so I'll report back after it does with results. I hope all is well so I can continue to use this method. I thought others might be interested in doing the same thing which is why I posted :)

Seems like the fit would have to be different (thinking about the support points and the lows of the curves). Poles make additional peaks. So I'm interest in hearing how it turns out. I'd keep an eye on it during the first rain--pooling adds a lot of weight, compounds itself, and I'd be concerned about a rip.

Hmmm.

VetteLT193
11-13-2009, 02:04 PM
Seems like the fit would have to be different (thinking about the support points and the lows of the curves). Poles make additional peaks. So I'm interest in hearing how it turns out. I'd keep an eye on it during the first rain--pooling adds a lot of weight, compounds itself, and I'd be concerned about a rip.
Hmmm.
Yeah, it's different now. it's raised all through the middle of the front and V'd in the back. The water looks like it will run off. The only issue might be the forward rails, but I think it will be ok because of the high point at the windshield.
We'll see. It seems better than the poles so far anyway.

VetteLT193
11-13-2009, 09:11 PM
here is a pic after it has settled for a couple days. I think the forward rails are the only issue. we'll see.

Bamboo Loui
11-14-2009, 07:10 AM
sounds very close to how my 22c was shrink wrapped when we bought it last year. The shrink wrapper is in Naples. I think I still have the cover with the name on it. He ran three lines from the bow-- one to each corner of the wind shield and one down the center and added padding to each contact point which protected the windshield but allso added a little more height and angle. The three linesthen ran to the back of the boat connecting at the lift ring and two outboard tie off rings. shrink wrap is different than a cover of course but the lines did provide the support you describe.without using poles.

If I can find a picture I will post it. I think the very good shrink wrappewrs could give us all some tips.

My custome cover has still not been started-- delays delays delays-- but your post has helped because I forgot just how good the shrink was and will discuss this with the cover maker before he starts.

I told him I wanted all the color covered and for him to use a ski jacket style snap--- is that what you have??? I was going to have the front of the cover split as it goes down from the outer most point of the bow and
past the bow hook and then have velcro to seam it. Yours has a rope sewn in that the outer straps attach to?

Doug

BigGrizzly
11-14-2009, 09:47 AM
Vett, that is exactly I would have done. It is a common fix on center counsel and bass boats. Sometimes they put a crosws bar of aluminm or webbing in the center for a stronger center, works pretty good in snow. However you don't know anything about that. Snow is that white stuff that falls from the sky that causes trees to jump in front of cars.:smile:

AR-Cougar
11-30-2009, 09:11 AM
I am sick and tired of using the pole cover support. The bow cover has a spot that gets full of water with the pole up. The stern is fine, but a total PITA to get the pole up and get out of the boat.
So... I tied a line to the bow cleat and ran it over the windshield. I looped two more lines to it and tied them off on the back two cleats so I made a Y shape out of the lines up and over the windshield. I put the cover on, and all seems to be working as planned. The cover is supported and I can take the cover on/off without dealing with stupid poles.
It hasn't rained hard yet so I'll report back after it does with results. I hope all is well so I can continue to use this method. I thought others might be interested in doing the same thing which is why I posted :)

Great advise. Worked perfectly on my 22.

Had my canvas designed with no poles and got it to be almost flat thanks to a surrounding inner fold with an elastic running through it.
Nevertheless, one spot collected water due to the hight of the seats/windshield.

Your suggestion solved this for good. Thanks.

Here are some pics of the above-mentioned fold/elastic.
You'll be looking at:
pics 1 & 2 = the stern port end
pics 3 & 4 = bow
pic 5 = elastic

VetteLT193
11-30-2009, 07:52 PM
I'm glad it works for you. After a good couple of rains it works well for me except I still need a prop rod in the bow area (open bow ZXO). Not a big deal though up there. So, all in all, a good method for me and much easier to deal with:wink:

MOP
11-30-2009, 08:14 PM
A possible solution you may want to try which I say on another bow rider. The owner had a piece of heavy webbing tape about two feet long ending in a Y to spread the load sewn into the center just back from the bow. The webbing had and eye for a line which once covered he would pull tight eliminating the sag so no water collected.

Phil