Winterizing: fog and antifreeze

[Ghost]

Been a LONG time since I sprayed any fogging oil, and that was into a Johnson outboard. My last 10 years was with my fuel injected Volvo.

So, I'm looking at the slightly tricky simultaneous winterizing task of fogging the engine (with spray through the carb) while running antifreeze through the seawater side of my FWC system.

What I'm wondering is:

how long (roughly) will the motor continue to run while I'm fogging it, until I conk it?
Just trying to roughly gauge when to start each, and how much antifreeze it will slurp through in the process. I was guessing about 6 gal per small block in about 45 seconds or a minute, and maybe about 20 seconds of fogging, but this was just a guess. Also,

how much fogging oil will I need per engine, and do you recommend spraying in from two cans at once?
some people recommend pulling the spark plugs after fogging through the carb, and spraying fogging oil directly into the cylinders. Good idea? Bad?
Any thoughts/suggestions appreciated. I haven't *ever* done a spray fog while trying to do the antifreeze thing.

Mike

[realbold]

I ran my single sbc (its not in the boat) last week and could not kill it with Gold Eagle fogging spray. In fact there wasn't any smoke to speak of. So I slowly poured Marvel top oil in each primary to kill it. LOL the wind blew the smoke directly at the neighbor lady that was sitting on her patio:hyper:.
I just drained the water and still have to get some antifreeze. I'll just fill it instead of trying to run it through.

[mrfixxall]

I use about a half a can per engine,the only fogging oil i use is CRC engine store, its a foaming engine fog and sticks everywhere..i have tried several and this stuff is the best!! i wanted to see how good it was so i fogged my 502's before i went through them,when i took them apart the oil war everywhere from the crc compared to the eagle brand..and boy does the smoke bellow out to,you wont kill the engine with it tho unless you have 2 cans going into the throttle blades..i usually kill the engine by either using the engine interrupt micro switch or unplug the ignition module while spraying the fogging oil...

you can get the crc at west marine for 3 bucks a can :)

[silverghost]

I usually do as Mr Fix says with the same product.
In addition
After this I pull all the spark plugs & spray the fogging oil directly into each cylinder with the included straw for 20 seconds each! Now I know there will be enough storage oil in each & every cylinder!
Be carefull not to let that pesky straw get loose out of the spray nozzel and go into the engine !
Don't ask~ !
I had to use a bore scope & grabber to fish one out several years go!
Not Fun!
Now I use a small piece of stickey duct tape on the straw to the nozzel!
I have a BBC 454 so this second spraying uses most of one full can of fogging oil.
I then, with the spark plugs still out, jog the starter through at least 4 rotations to spread the fogging oil film on the cylinder walls & rings.
I then switch off the main battery switch & replace the sparkplugs.
In the spring before I turn the starter over I remove the sparkplugs and turn on the battery switch and jog the starter. I always have some oil spray out of the plug holes! I put shop towels on each head first to catch most of this old oil!
Clean sparkplugs in gasoline before you start & possibly use new plugs after all the old foggng oil burns up.
I have FWC (Fresh water cooling) with antifreeze that stays in engine block & heads + heat exchanger year around!
Unlike most~ I remove my raw sea waterpump impeller as I find it does not crush the rubber vanes and usually can be reused for 3-4 seasons that way.
Antifreeze seems to damage impellers (RV Red or EG Green Prestone Both types) to some extent and prolonged impeller blade crush by the pump cam does an impeller no good at all.
My impeller is very easy to get access to & remove~ Many are not as easily accessable !
I drain raw sea water side, heat exchanger, oil coolers , sea strainer, impeller raw water pump, & Manifolds & risers.
Usually I then add antifreeze directly into manifolds & risers for extra rust & corrosion protection.
I then spray CRC protectant on anything that might rust or corrode (carb, fuel pump, etc)
I also try to run my fuel tank down very low~
This year I have less than three gallons left in the tank.
I use Sta-bill. (don't know if it does very much?)
The 7 month old gas always runs crappy in the spring anyway until it burns-up !
I use a small Golden~Rod heater (from West Marine) strapped next to engine crankcase as boat is outside on custom bunk trailer under a heavy canvas tarp all winter long!
This seems to chase condensation & mosture fairly well & costs little to operate !
I have been doing this "Winterizing" since the mid 60s ~
My 92 Y/O father since the mid 40s !
Remember the big flathead Chris~Craft inline 6 cyliders?
He was also the first around to have a Graymarine Fireball 238 HP V8 & also the Cal Connell Chris~Craft Cadillac V8 !
WE never lost an engine !
But he used two stroke/cycle oil before you could buy any good fogging oil !
He winterized OUR BBC 454 this year a week ago !
I supervised! : )
He put 126 engine running hours on the boat in Ocean City NJ himself fishing this year!
He was out there almost every day~ Rain or Shine !
He want's to keep busy & stay active~
I guess that't how he has lived to be 92 !
His birthday was two weeks ago!
He looks like 72 !
I will post some photos of dad in the speedboat !

[MOP]

Can't beat the CRC fogging, but note no matter what oil you use always be ready to pull the lanyard or turn of the key. Mine is just about impossible to kill, I have a 60,000 volt coil that will burn most anything.

[CHACHI]

Silverghost,

keep the scope in the tool box.

Ken

http://www.hold-it.net/

[Ghost]

Thanks everyone, esp Silverghost and Mr. F, lots of good info and advice. (Realbold, LOL, I will try not to fog anybody down at the yard unless it is someone I hate. :) )

This definitely helps me get through the engine stuff.

Now I'm starting to wonder if I need to do anything with my v-drives and trannys. I suppose I could slurp the lube out of each, and put in fresh. Not sure if I need that every year (especially with so few hours as I ran this season, but probably not bad to do). Particularly the v-drives which I did all the work on, where I should at least check the fluid to see if it looks like there is any water in it, or if it's nice and pure.

Mike