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Sluggo
10-16-2009, 05:14 PM
What would is the best sequence of steps for the removal and then installation of a 69' 351? Any suggestions would be appreciated.

MOP
10-16-2009, 05:18 PM
Get the drive off and the complete exhaust and make sure "everything" is detached, take the mounts lose at the stringers then lift slightly pull forward enough to be able to turn the engine 90 degrees then Up & Out.

Just Say N20
10-16-2009, 10:45 PM
I didn't like hearing it, because I knew it would take the project to a whole new level, but I finally conceded to the recommendations and pulled the deck off first. Engine is a snap to get out after that.

I had stringers (1967 hull) to replace, and other glass work to do, which is why I ultimately decided to it. Also, space is at such a premium in the 16 engine compartment already, and mine had closed loop cooling, and thru-transom exhaust but the original "Y" pipe was still there, clogging things up.

Parnell (Sweet CheeckZ) seems to be able to pull/replace the engine in his 16 like I change shoes, so it can be done.

Have some band-aids handy. :yes:

Sluggo
10-17-2009, 06:03 AM
The deck will eventually be coming off to change the tank. I wanted to hold off on that part of the project for the time being.

gcarter
10-17-2009, 08:46 AM
The deck will eventually be coming off to change the tank. I wanted to hold off on that part of the project for the time being.
I wonder why everyone says this?
Maybe it should be a "choose" button on the reply page.:wink:
It would save a lot of people a lot of time.


Go ahead and get it done.:shades:

Sweet Cheekz
10-17-2009, 05:35 PM
Parnell (Sweet CheeckZ) seems to be able to pull/replace the engine in his 16 like I change shoes, so it can be done.

:yes:

This is not considered a good thing! Engine goes back in in two weeks and shouldn't come out for a 5 years, so the mechanic says
SC

David Ochs
10-20-2009, 08:48 AM
Get the drive off and the complete exhaust and make sure "everything" is detached, take the mounts lose at the stringers then lift slightly pull forward enough to be able to turn the engine 90 degrees then Up & Out.

Don't forget to support the aft weight of the engine prior to removing the transom plate for the outdrive. I use a 2x4 across the hatch (padded of course) with with an eyebolt and chain bolted to the rear portion of the intake manifold. You're going to want to remove the bellhousing as well. Once you have everything off and your hoist is connected, you can remove the 2x4. If you are using a floor type engine hoist, look for one with the tallest reach. One time I had to let the air out of the trailer tires to gain enough clearance across the deck. If you are using an overhead lift then you don't have this problem.
I have done this several times, it's a piece of cake, just take your time. One other thing, if you have a Harbor Freight near you, their engine stands are inexpensive and serve the purpose. Get the one with four wheels.
Good luck,
Dave

Madcow
10-20-2009, 09:11 AM
The deck will eventually be coming off to change the tank. I wanted to hold off on that part of the project for the time being.
Just do it. Once you get into it it's not that bad. A lot easier than it looks.

Just Say N20
10-20-2009, 09:33 AM
But, deck removal does greatly increase the space requirements for doing the job, if you are going to keep everything inside. My project is taking up all three garage bays. :yes:

Madcow
10-21-2009, 08:38 AM
Here is the thread from when I did mine. If you have the space it's reall not that dificult.

http://www.donzi.net/forums/showthread.php?t=47197&highlight=madcow