1988 Donzi Classic 22 New Project

[Trueser]

This is Howie's 22 purchased from Zimm17,

We pulled the motor and the clean up begins. We have a motor on the way as soon as the cotton is finished.

This boat will be attending AOTH for sure!

[oledawg]

I have a similar boat, so keep all posted on progress. Will be interesting to see what you do with this one. Best. :cool!:

[farmer tx]

Time to start scrubbing Howie!:smash:

[gcarter]

Time to start scrubbing Howie!:smash:

Yep!:cool:

[jvcobra]

Why the new outdrive? I thought it just had a bad motor.

[Trueser]

That's a spare

[xedmoc]

the 16, yes sir! Boat looks cool, in good hands, my friend. Trueser Marine rocks!

XEDMOC

[ITTLFLI]

LOOKS FUN! :shades:

[Trueser]

LOOKS FUN! :shades:

More like over whelming. But then again it's not mine.

I have my own winter project, I will be posting soon.

[Trueser]

the 16, yes sir! Boat looks cool, in good hands, my friend. Trueser Marine rocks!

XEDMOC


That is an option. ALpha 1 gen 2 would be nice on a 16 with 4.3.

It's the $$$ thats the hard part.

[Tony]

If this 22 ends up looking anything like the last 22 you guys owned, it will be awesome! :cool!:

:beer:

[xedmoc]

That is an option. ALpha 1 gen 2 would be nice on a 16 with 4.3.

It's the $$$ thats the hard part.

But I'm surprised it will fit on the OMC setup, currently in place.

E

[BigGrizzly]

I will be at Cumberland with prop testing:yes::yes::yes:

[19donziz29]

It's going to be a Great Project! I can't believe my garage has had 7 Donzi's in it in the past year. Howie I should make it to your place one night this week to prep the compartment for it's new power! Luckily your got that drive out of my garage or it may have come up missing. (I mean on the back of the Z29).

[Trueser]

But I'm surprised it will fit on the OMC setup, currently in place.

E


You would a new gimbal and drive. Pull the motor backout etc.etc.etc

In other words $$$$$$$$$$

[thehow33]

I will be at Cumberland with prop testing:yes::yes::yes:

Great cause I absolutely can't wait for AOTH, I was told you were the man to talk to about prop testing, right now I have a 28 or 29p 4 blade turbo fusion, which I know is way too much prop for what I will have in it, If you know anyone that needs one or wants to trade let me know...I was also wondering does an imco shorty change the size prop needed, compared to a regular bravo I?

I can't wait for next boat season...I also despise that there is such a thing as a boat season...I will be posting some pics as we go along with the engine compartment...

Matt, I knew I needed to get that drive out of there quickly...you were drooling as we took it off.haha

[thehow33]

few pics before motor was pulled

[Trueser]

Let's see the progress of the cleanup......

[thehow33]

I was at Road America this weekend and I was stuck inside because it was SNOWING!!!! Will have some pictures some time tomorrow

[Trueser]

http://www.wunderground.com


before you travel....

[19donziz29]

few pics before motor was pulled

I'm so glad you're getting rid of that closed cooling mess! :nilly:

[zelatore]

I was at Road America this weekend and I was stuck inside because it was SNOWING!!!! Will have some pictures some time tomorrow

Ah yes, Road America - perhaps my favorite track!

And don't think you can just drop a little bomb like that and not tell us what you were driving!

BTW, real men still run in the snow...I did a Porsche club track day at Mid Ohio once in the snow. OK, thinking back on it, maybe it's not 'real men' I meant to say. Maybe it was 'idiots'. :wink:

[thehow33]

haha I would have been driving a 1989 944 turbo porsche cup car, but I broke my arm a while back and thought I would maybe be able to drive but its still not healed yet. Depending on the weather I may be going to VIR in November and my arm should be healed by then...I love Mid Ohio, but in the snow I'll pass....it's one the most technical course in the US.

[mrfixxall]

Does the name Joe Hish ring a bell?

[thehow33]

:frown::frown::frown:
So i've taking close to 50 screws out of the transom and stringers. Well there was one on top of the port side stringer and i stuck a nail in to see how the stringer was and I pulled out some moist wood. I then preceded to take the motor mount bolts out which were also moist. Just when I thought everything was going well.

I'm really hoping I don't have to split the boat in half:confused:

[BUIZILLA]

I'm really hoping I don't have to split the boat in half:confused: that's not sooooo bad...

it's the splitting it down the middle that's a bitch... :nilly:

[mrfixxall]

:frown::frown::frown:
So i've taking close to 50 screws out of the transom and stringers. Well there was one on top of the port side stringer and i stuck a nail in to see how the stringer was and I pulled out some moist wood. I then preceded to take the motor mount bolts out which were also moist. Just when I thought everything was going well.

I'm really hoping I don't have to split the boat in half:confused:


Your going to have some kind of moisture in the boat,put it in a heated garage and let it dry out..I know the boat SAT at least 3 tears and who knows if it was even covers rite..Also go to home depot and get a damprid bucket and put it in the boat..http://www.damprid.com/...they work awsome and make the boat smell girly:)

[gold-n-rod]

Also go to home depot and get a damprid bucket and put it in the boat..[url]http://www.damprid.com/[url...they work awsome and make the boat smell girly:)

What if my boat already smells like fish??????????? :eek:

[Trueser]

that's not sooooo bad...

it's the splitting it down the middle that's a bitch... :nilly:


common Jim go easy on him......


Howie I will stop over in 20 min.

Have a beer

[thehow33]

pics, wonderful wet pics. you cant see the wetness but be sure its spreading as you read this... ok well maybe not exactly, but something like it.

HAHA....I'm hoping I can just dry it out and reinforce it

[mrfixxall]

What if my boat already smells like fish??????????? :eek:

Then you need to take the boat to the doctor,she might have a bacteria infection:yes:

[MOP]

There is no force on earth that will dry the wood, don't despair! Mine were wet also but only about another four feet ahead of the mounts, my glass guy cut back to dust dry wood had to remove the bulkhead in front of the engine. The the stringers were doubled from the fuel tank to the transom, extra bulkhead added and three extra transverses. We also added struts from the hull up to the back of the tub, most all 22's need help securing the tub. Reach under the battery box you will more than likely find crushed fiber glass that did at one time support the back end of the tub. I will bet $5 that the lower section of the transom is also wet, Donzi like most OEM's did not isolate the stringers from the transom wood. It does not migrate upward due the the fact that the transom is filled with blocks of plywood not a solid piece. I takes about two weeks to preform the new plywood to match the transoms contour, or like some have done relief cut it and clamp it in place. I wen the solid route using the preform method.

Phil

[Trueser]

This ended up being fine. Nothing needed.

The holes that were drilled in the side of the boat too hold the steering hoses on the other hand have me confused.

Back on track. Can we get this thread back on track?

[Trueser]

There is no force on earth that will dry the wood, don't despair! Mine were wet also but only about another four feet ahead of the mounts, my glass guy cut back to dust dry wood had to remove the bulkhead in front of the engine. The the stringers were doubled from the fuel tank to the transom, extra bulkhead added and three extra transverses. We also added struts from the hull up to the back of the tub, most all 22's need help securing the tub. Reach under the battery box you will more than likely find crushed fiber glass that did at one time support the back end of the tub. I will bet $5 that the lower section of the transom is also wet, Donzi like most OEM's did not isolate the stringers from the transom wood. It does not migrate upward due the the fact that the transom is filled with blocks of plywood not a solid piece. I takes about two weeks to preform the new plywood to match the transoms contour, or like some have done relief cut it and clamp it in place. I wen the solid route using the preform method.

Phil

You need the address for the $5:00 It was also fine.

[thehow33]

Looks like I won't need to redo the stringers or transom. Just need to dry it out with heat lamp, jb weld. Then use 12in long aluminum bracket for the motor mount and sandwich the stringer with another piece of metal. Thanks mike.

[farmer tx]

I'll bring the angle brackets when I come up there, 11" aluminum .5" thick.:smash:

[thehow33]

I'll bring the angle brackets when I come up there, 11" aluminum .5" thick.:smash:

That would be great...Hope the harvesting is going well...bet you can't wait for it to be over!

[farmer tx]

20% done as of tonight. We are hoping for clear weather so we can be done by Thanksgiving.:lookaroun:

[MOP]

You need the address for the $5:00 It was also fine.

There has never been a question of encapsulated wood getting wet and not rotting, I have seen guys drill hundreds of holes use heat and what ever. You can only stall the inevitable just so long!

Do a test take a large C clamp place it low about one inch up from the bottom of the stringer aft crank down by hand, if even the slightest deflection is seen the stringer has already started to soften. It is apart now do it correctly, band aides only last so long!

[Trueser]

There has never been a question of encapsulated wood getting wet and not rotting, I have seen guys drill hundreds of holes use heat and what ever. You can only stall the inevitable just so long!

Do a test take a large C clamp place it low about one inch up from the bottom of the stringer aft crank down by hand, if even the slightest deflection is seen the stringer has already started to soften. It is apart now do it correctly, band aides only last so long!

The stringers and trandsom look like they were already done. We are not band aiding anything.

[MOP]

Post #25 says moist!

Would be a shame to have to tear it apart again to do what would be reasonably easy now. Drill a couple of holes way down low in both the transom and stringers any dark wood tells the tale.

[Trueser]

I think his fingers were wet.....

[thehow33]

20% done as of tonight. We are hoping for clear weather so we can be done by Thanksgiving.:lookaroun:

If the weather holds off that would make for a nice relaxing Thanksgiving.

[HOWARD O]

What are you replacing the motor with?

This Howie expects to be doing much of the same stuff on my 22 this winter....if I can only find a garage/shop to use! :nilly:

Anxious to see progress pix! :yes:

[gcarter]

Howie, my boat was built during the same period as yours.
My stringers had no rot, the transom was dry and good.
However,there're still voids under the inner sides of the stringers that I would address if I were you. It would also be easy to beef up the stringers and inner bottom now.
My boat had some serious issues to address that weren't readily apparent.
Start reading here and go through the next 5 or 6 pages.
http://www.donzi.net/forums/showthread.php?t=50476&page=4

I'm not trying to scare you. ALL the '80's boats are built this way and should be corrected, particularly iif you're going to have some serious power in them.
At this point it's really easy to fix, after all, I've given everyone a guide.
The cost to make these corrections was only about $250.....peanuts!
The time was only about 2-3 days in my spare time. That included building a new transverse frame and gussets.
Don't let anyone kid you.......
These boats were designed and built around small blocks and low power big blocks and they're more than 20 years old.

[Trueser]

Howie, my boat was built during the same period as yours.
My stringers had no rot, the transom was dry and good.
However,there're still voids under the inner sides of the stringers that I would address if I were you. It would also be easy to beef up the stringers and inner bottom now.
My boat had some serious issues to address that weren't readily apparent.
Start reading here and go through the next 5 or 6 pages.
http://www.donzi.net/forums/showthread.php?t=50476&page=4

I'm not trying to scare you. ALL the '80's boats are built this way and should be corrected, particularly iif you're going to have some serious power in them.
At this point it's really easy to fix, after all, I've given everyone a guide.
The cost to make these corrections was only about $250.....peanuts!
The time was only about 2-3 days in my spare time. That included building a new transverse frame and gussets.
Don't let anyone kid you.......
These boats were designed and built around small blocks and low power big blocks and they're more than 20 years old.


George,
With all the work you did with the GEL I could never understand why you didn't replace your stringers and transom. 20 year old stringers are still 20 years old. The best way is to remove and replace them properly. Unless it's a late model mix-up. On Howie's It looked to me that someone has already gone thru the stringers and transom. I also had the glass guy look at it and he said the same thing. On the other hand for some major cash he was more than willing to rip it apart and put new stringers/transom/and fuel tank. But the cost was not in Howie's budget. The deck has some shrinkage and blistering going on with the common cockpit issue's This will be repaired at a later date. Maybe at that time he will have the inside done also.

He is not installing a Roadtrip killer engine. I'm not sure about the small block statement. Most 22'S that I see have Big Blocks. I loved my small block 22 and still miss it.

[gcarter]

The reason I didn't replace the stringer wood was it's just a core that's capable of standing up to high clamping forces. The existing stringers are fine for that. I did add a lot of glass to the sides,
But most important, I filled the voids under the stringers.
The outer knife edges of the stringer wood is what damages the bottom.

[thehow33]

What are you replacing the motor with?

This Howie expects to be doing much of the same stuff on my 22 this winter....if I can only find a garage/shop to use! :nilly:

Anxious to see progress pix! :yes:

You don't see to many Howie's, much less that own a Donzi.
I don't plan on putting too much power in, just enough to make the wife say "slow down." :nilly: Make sure to send me some pics of what you do too...Are you going to AOTH? If so I will be buying you a drink for having such a cool name.

[thehow33]

Howie, my boat was built during the same period as yours.
My stringers had no rot, the transom was dry and good.
However,there're still voids under the inner sides of the stringers that I would address if I were you. It would also be easy to beef up the stringers and inner bottom now.
My boat had some serious issues to address that weren't readily apparent.
Start reading here and go through the next 5 or 6 pages.
http://www.donzi.net/forums/showthread.php?t=50476&page=4

I'm not trying to scare you. ALL the '80's boats are built this way and should be corrected, particularly iif you're going to have some serious power in them.
At this point it's really easy to fix, after all, I've given everyone a guide.
The cost to make these corrections was only about $250.....peanuts!
The time was only about 2-3 days in my spare time. That included building a new transverse frame and gussets.
Don't let anyone kid you.......
These boats were designed and built around small blocks and low power big blocks and they're more than 20 years old.

WOW, nice job, you didn't miss anything. I ended up reading pretty much the entire thread. You could use that thread to write a series of how to books. That drive looks amazing too.

Personally, my intentions with the boat are to get it very close to new. However, part of the wife/husband contract was to redo the kitchen next spring so I won't have the cash to do what I know needs to be done. split the boat in half, redo the stringers and maybe transom (looks like it may possibly be redone already), fill in the dash, fix and re-attach the tub, fuel tank, and then gel the entire top half of the boat. I wanted to do all of this at once for obvious reasons, but won't be able to do it for about 2 yrs that way...so thats why i want to be able to get by until then with what I have.

Thank you for all the great info! Your way sounds like a really good option.

[HOWARD O]

You don't see to many Howie's, much less that own a Donzi.
I don't plan on putting too much power in, just enough to make the wife say "slow down." :nilly: Make sure to send me some pics of what you do too...Are you going to AOTH? If so I will be buying you a drink for having such a cool name.

I bet we're the only two! Maybe not. :cool:

I'm not looking for a lot of power either, maybe in the low 400 hp range would be good. I do want it super reliable though. Not sure what to do. I know rebuilding this old 330 would be the least expensive and have read here and other places that it can be built to over 400 hp reliably and it has good heads for doing so. But then again, I can't help but think that something more modern would not only be more reliable, but perhaps more efficient too. Still looking for suggestions as I still haven't found someone around here with enough "marine engine" experience to help me out. :confused:

I also have to finish converting our garage into a family room, which came to a halt 2 years ago after my major hernia! I know how those "contracts" go!

If I get this boat close enough, I'll make it to AOTH and would be honored to share a drink! I owe many folks here a drink too, though.....and many will probably want to throw me in the drink as well! :nilly:

[Trueser]

Some have fallen in.

[BUIZILLA]

some have jumped..

[BUIZILLA]

yet..

[HOWARD O]

yet..


:nilly:

[thehow33]

I've reinforced the stringer and support stringer in 2 spots and will be painting today once the garage is warm enough. I used 3 pieces of glass on the support stringer and 2 pieces on the other stringer. I filled the mounting holes with jb weld. I've never glassed anything before so i'm hoping it holds well enough.

[thehow33]

I've also been working on my motor...its a 454 bored .30 over. I've painted the motor, I've since painted the circulating pump as well. I will be buying a holley 750 double pumper and a delco ignition system.

[Planetwarmer]

lookin good:yes:

[farmer tx]

Looks like it's coming along. Keep up the work and we will see you at AOTH X:smash:

[Trueser]

Ok here is Howie's parts needed list.

Gen 4 motor

Wire harness... Old one was all cut up
Sea pump bracket.
Lower crank pulley.
Flywheel cover. missing
Remote filter adapter.

[farmer tx]

Bracket that swings under the front of the oil pan?

[mrfixxall]

Ok here is Howie's parts needed list.

Gen 4 motor

Wire harness... Old one was all cut up
Sea pump bracket.
Lower crank pulley.
Flywheel cover. missing
Remote filter adapter.


i might have the bracket and the remote oil filter adaptor..i also have lower pullys somwhere..i also have 6 holley 700 cfm marine carbs if interested..

[Trueser]

i might have the bracket and the remote oil filter adaptor..i also have lower pullys somwhere..i also have 6 holley 700 cfm marine carbs if interested..+


I will have Howie give you a call.

Anything on a wire harness?

[gcarter]

Here's your wiring harness...

http://bpi.ebasicpower.com/pc/MAR6199-02-06//Engine+Wiring+Harness+For+Mercruiser%2C+Omc%2C%3Cb r%3EVolvo%2C+Crusader%2C+Pleasurecraft%2C+And+Othe rs.

They have the mating harness to the panel also.

[thehow33]

i might have the bracket and the remote oil filter adaptor..i also have lower pullys somwhere..i also have 6 holley 700 cfm marine carbs if interested..


Great! I'll give you a call tomorrow.

[mrfixxall]

+


I will have Howie give you a call.

Anything on a wire harness?

i have the harness to! with the circuit braker and bracket, i dont think i have the ignition harness tho..i also have a mark IV circulation pump with the bracket's,i have the remote oil filter doohicky to..still looking for a pully:bonk:

[OFFSHORE GINGER]

I've reinforced the stringer and support stringer in 2 spots and will be painting today once the garage is warm enough. I used 3 pieces of glass on the support stringer and 2 pieces on the other stringer. I filled the mounting holes with jb weld. I've never glassed anything before so i'm hoping it holds well enough. As i look at the pics of the glasswork you did on the stringers and support knee it looks like you only used 10 oz for the repair and did you even bother to fill in the voids or grind out the cracks properly ? I have to say that if you only used 10 oz for the repair that you show in your pics a pin cushion will have about the same strength and please do not take this the wrong way because i am just going on what you show in your pics and i could be wrong .

[Trueser]

As i look at the pics of the glasswork you did on the stringers and support knee it looks like you only used 10 oz for the repair and did you even bother to fill in the voids or grind out the cracks properly ? I have to say that if you only used 10 oz for the repair that you show in your pics a pin cushion will have about the same strength and please do not take this the wrong way because i am just going on what you show in your pics and i could be wrong .


Hmmm, How would you take it?

The stringers were fine he covered the stingers for added strength. The crack in the hull was a air pocket on the outer chine next to the boot stripe, the was filled and should also be fine. This boat will be split and stringers and transom will be replaced at a later date. Also the deck will be stripped and redone.

I think for his first attempt at glasswork he did a great job! The motor mounts have been changed to 12".

Mike, Thanks for looking out for Howie,

She will make it to AOTH 2010...........

[OFFSHORE GINGER]

The How 33 , i apologize for my last post and meant no harm and did not try to offend you in any way .

[thehow33]

The How 33 , i apologize for my last post and meant no harm and did not try to offend you in any way .

No problem I can handle criticism when its worded with kindness.haha :wink: I know you are just pointing out what you would do differently, so no hard feelings. I know that most everyone here probably has much more knowledge and experience than I do so the more help the better...

My only experience is helping and (mainly) watching Trueser redo his 22C and Z29, which has definitely helped me with this project.

I know I could have used heavier glass, but I didn't think the stringer really needed that much more strengthening . I mainly wanted to fill in the old mounting holes and area where the washers had sucked into the stringer slightly. I filled those areas with JB weld and then glassed over it.

The other area was redone because the glass at the ended of the support stringer was pulling up, an air pocket, and a small crack like trueser said. I did grind those 2 areas first. Then I filled those areas with resin, let it harden and then ground the area that I was glassing.

Mr. Fixxall...Thanks for helping me out. It was getting kind of annoying trying to find some of those parts on the internet. I'm really exited now and once i've done a little painting i'll have the motor ready in no time. It was also really nice that your shop is only 15 minutes away.

[gero1]

why dont i see any beer cans on the floor ?

[thehow33]

why dont i see any beer cans on the floor ?

Because the paint fumes are enough.:eek:

[gero1]

gonna have to teach you some learnings this spring at aoth....i hear tell your hanging out with a ruff crowd. did you find all the stuff you needed?

[thehow33]

gonna have to teach you some learnings this spring at aoth....i hear tell your hanging out with a ruff crowd. did you find all the stuff you needed?

HAHA...

I did end up getting the parts I needed thanks to Mr.Fixxall.

[gcarter]

why dont i see any beer cans on the floor ?

Don't let Robert give you a hard time!:wink:
There's no beer cans on my floor either.

[thehow33]

Ok so I finished painting the engine compartment. I made my 12" long motor mounts out of 1/2" aluminum angle and then sandwiched the stringer with 12" x 1/2" long aluminum flat bar. I also finished the battery hold downs.

I have to change the impeller and housing on the raw water pump. The pump housing is 2 separate pieces. Should I get the the one piece housing when I change the impeller? I also need the pulley for it if anyone has an extra one that they need to sell, let me know.

[mrfixxall]

Ok so I finished painting the engine compartment. I made my 12" long motor mounts out of 1/2" aluminum angle and then sandwiched the stringer with 12" x 1/2" long aluminum flat bar. I also finished the battery hold downs.

I have to change the impeller and housing on the raw water pump. The pump housing is 2 separate pieces. Should I get the the one piece housing when I change the impeller? I also need the pulley for it if anyone has an extra one that they need to sell, let me know.


Howey,ill call you in the am..

[OFFSHORE GINGER]

How 33 , l@@king very nice / clean .

[thehow33]

I'm hoping some one can point me in the right direction.

-This adapter is for a Mark IV BBC...I'm looking for the 2 gaskets, O-Ring style I believe and not the square oil filter type.

-Also, I'm looking for the 2 mounting bolts and the washers that seal.

-lastly, I have -12AN fittings that are on the oil lines. The fittings in the adapter appear to be 1/2" npt. Would I have oil pressure issues if I used a 1/2" to -12 fitting?

-I have a GenV flywheel and i'm told it doesn't work with a markIV bbc .....anyone interested in trading or have one for sale

[gcarter]

I'm hoping some one can point me in the right direction.

-This adapter is for a Mark IV BBC...I'm looking for the 2 gaskets, O-Ring style I believe and not the square oil filter type.

-Also, I'm looking for the 2 mounting bolts and the washers that seal.

-lastly, I have -12AN fittings that are on the oil lines. The fittings in the adapter appear to be 1/2" npt. Would I have oil pressure issues if I used a 1/2" to -12 fitting?

-I have a GenV flywheel and i'm told it doesn't work with a markIV bbc .....anyone interested in trading or have one for sale

As for the flywheel, take a look at this;

http://www.donzi.net/forums/showthread.php?t=60293&highlight=flywheel

You should be able to get any O-ring you need at any good bearing/driveline house.

As for the fittings, the answer is yes. Use a good teflon based sealer on the pipe threads.

[mrfixxall]

I'm hoping some one can point me in the right direction.

-This adapter is for a Mark IV BBC...I'm looking for the 2 gaskets, O-Ring style I believe and not the square oil filter type.

-Also, I'm looking for the 2 mounting bolts and the washers that seal.

-lastly, I have -12AN fittings that are on the oil lines. The fittings in the adapter appear to be 1/2" npt. Would I have oil pressure issues if I used a 1/2" to -12 fitting?

-I have a GenV flywheel and i'm told it doesn't work with a markIV bbc .....anyone interested in trading or have one for sale


howey,thats a keith eckert block adaptor,you may be able to ues a square style oring from a oul filter,the inner one call berry bearing in addison il they also have all kinds of square oil sealing rings..

your flywheel,,all the mark and gen flywheels have the same bolt patterns...take yours to a machine shop and make sure its zero balanced,should run about 50 bucks or flash you badge:)

fixx

[farmer tx]

I'm hoping some one can point me in the right direction.

-This adapter is for a Mark IV BBC...I'm looking for the 2 gaskets, O-Ring style I believe and not the square oil filter type.

-Also, I'm looking for the 2 mounting bolts and the washers that seal.

-lastly, I have -12AN fittings that are on the oil lines. The fittings in the adapter appear to be 1/2" npt. Would I have oil pressure issues if I used a 1/2" to -12 fitting?

-I have a GenV flywheel and i'm told it doesn't work with a markIV bbc .....anyone interested in trading or have one for sale

Howie, That adapter doesn't have an oil bypass. Gen 5 blocks have the bypass in the block. The mark IV bypass is in the adapter. You may overpressure the filter without a bypass.

[gcarter]

Howie, That adapter doesn't have an oil bypass. Gen 5 blocks have the bypass in the block. The mark IV bypass is in the adapter. You may overpressure the filter without a bypass.

That's good info Mark.
I'd forgotten about that.

[thehow33]

Howie, That adapter doesn't have an oil bypass. Gen 5 blocks have the bypass in the block. The mark IV bypass is in the adapter. You may overpressure the filter without a bypass.

Very true, although the advantage will be no unfiltered oil going back into the motor.

Was that motor externally balanced when it was redone?

Also, how was your vacation?

[MDonziM]

Did you mock up your eng mounts? I put in similar hardware last year but the 90 deg angle was at or below the top of my stringer. Maby your x-dim is higher. (my 22 is a 94') I can send a pic of mine tom, they're on my work computer.

Project looks good.

Marshall

[gcarter]

Did you mock up your eng mounts? I put in similar hardware last year but the 90 deg angle was at or below the top of my stringer. Maby your x-dim is higher. (my 22 is a 94') I can send a pic of mine tom, they're on my work computer.

Project looks good.

Marshall

Marshall, you have the wider stringer spacing that started in '94.....
Everything is different in your boat.

[MDonziM]

Marshall, you have the wider stringer spacing that started in '94.....
Everything is different in your boat.

Oh, right, I forgot about the spread. Hope you finish soon too George

[thehow33]

Did you mock up your eng mounts? I put in similar hardware last year but the 90 deg angle was at or below the top of my stringer. Maby your x-dim is higher. (my 22 is a 94') I can send a pic of mine tom, they're on my work computer.

Project looks good.

Marshall

Ok so after I drilled my first set of holes Trueser stopped by and reminded me that when I go to bolt on the motor mount to the aluminum angle the bolts will probably hit the aluminum flat bar on the other side of the stringer so I notched out an area on the flat bar. So when you see the alum. angle piece the 2 top, middle holes were just me getting carried away with a drill press.:boggled: Fortunately I hadn't already drilled into the string yet.

I probably should have just used 3/8" aluminum like the originals only longer pieces to spread the weight of the motor. I also drilled and tapped a hole in the flat bar to bolt up the straps holding the wires and bilge hose instead of drilling into the stringers anymore than I need to....Thanks for the good ideas Trueser.

[Trueser]

Mark will check on the flywheel on Monday.

[farmer tx]

Mark will check on the flywheel on Monday.

I will:yes:

[thehow33]

I took the old fuel line out and the return line since I only need a feed line with my setup. However, I couldn't get the original line out as I imagine Zimm tried too. It has to be tied down or glued in somewhere. Looks like it won't come out until the boat is split in half. If you know how to get it out without splitting the boat in half feel free to chime in. I have the fittings all set to go just waiting for the hose to come in from aeroquip.

I have -10 fittings and 1/2 inch line from the fuel tank to the fuel pump.
I have a shutoff valve followed by an inline reusable aeromotive filter then the water separator.

[Pismo]

I have to say this bypass/no-bypass oil filter thing is overblown IMO. Nobody on this board is ever going to let their filter or oil sit for so long and got so old and dirty and clogged that you will ever need a bypass. Don't worry about it. The bypass will never be used.

[VetteLT193]

I have to say this bypass/no-bypass oil filter thing is overblown IMO. Nobody on this board is ever going to let their filter or oil sit for so long and got so old and dirty and clogged that you will ever need a bypass. Don't worry about it. The bypass will never be used.

Oil filters have a bypass in them too.

The only point of the bypass is for pressure. Unless the engine is really high end I can't see the need.

[thehow33]

That's good to know. Now I don't have to worry about it anymore. Thanks guys. I didn't realize they had bypasses built into them, just anti-drain back valves.
I did a little research and found this info. Its a lot to read but good info. These are examples of when the oil is bypassed.


One example is when you start the motor when cold. The oil is thick and does not pass easily through the filtration medium, thus building up to a high pressure drop. So, the bypass valve opens to prevent oil-starvation of the motor. How long it stays open is dependent on how cold the oil is and how long it takes to get near operating temperature. When the pressure drop across the filtration medium drops below the bypass valve setting, then the bypass closes. Blipping the throttle while warming up is a good way to get the valve to open and send unfiltered oil to the motor. A steady warm-up rpm is probably a lot better.
Another example can occur when the motor is fully warmed. At idle, the oil pressure is about 15 to 20 psi, and the pressure drop across the filter is about 1 or 2 psi. You take off towards the redline, and quickly build oil pressure to the 70 to 80 psi range. During that full-throttle acceleration the pressure drop across the filter will exceed the bypass setting, and send unfiltered oil to the motor, until the pressure across the filter has time to equalize. During a drag race, shifting through the gears, the bypass will open several times.
A third example, which you should never experience with frequent oil and filter changes, is when a filter becomes clogged. A spin-on filter can commonly hold 10 to 20 grams of trash before it becomes fully clogged. The bypass valve opening is the only way to keep the motor from becoming oil-starved if the filter becomes clogged.

According to Purolator, the Honda OEM filter bypass setting is 12 to 14 psi, and that is how they build their motorcycle oil filter. WIX (NAPA Gold) builds their motorcycle and automobile oil filters with a bypass setting of 8 to 11 psi, while AC Delco builds theirs to a setting of 11 to 17 psi. How much do these differences matter? I don't think anyone knows, even the engineers, and each has its own set of advantages and disadvantages.


If you do lots of racing, you're probably better off with a higher bypass setting.
If you do lots of *cold* starting, especially in the winter, or seldom change your filter, I think you're better off with a lower bypass setting. However, with few exceptions, bypass pressures for spin-on filters run in the 8 to 17 psi range, and any of them should work acceptably.

[thehow33]

My understanding is quick acceleration will cause the oil to bypass the filter due to quick build up of pressure on the oil filter and then once it becomes constant the oil then goes back through the filter. With boats my thinking is this may happen when you are on and off the accelerator such as offshore when your boat may leave the water. Maybe I am way off. I would like to hear others thoughts.

[thehow33]

So today Fixx helped me remove a very stubborn seal and Gimble bearing. What a relief it was to get it out and install the new seal and bearing. Trueser helped me drop in the motor last week, which looks great.
The electrical system is finished and working nicely. It looks like a boat now and I can't wait to hear it run. I will fire her up in about 1-2 weeks. Waiting for a Carb and shift cable to arrive.

Thanks Fixx and Trueser....I really appreciate your help and experience.

[mrfixxall]

So today Fixx helped me remove a very stubborn seal and Gimble bearing. What a relief it was to get it out and install the new seal and bearing. Trueser helped me drop in the motor last week, which looks great.
The electrical system is finished and working nicely. It looks like a boat now and I can't wait to hear it run. I will fire her up in about 1-2 weeks. Waiting for a Carb and shift cable to arrive.

Thanks Fixx and Trueser....I really appreciate your help and experience.


any time howie! :)

Ever see a 6.0' guy in a 22 bilage with the motor in it?

[Just Say N20]

Great news that it is all coming together.

I'm jealous. I'm 5' 8" and there is no way I can fit in the engine compartment of my 16 when the engine is in there!

[farmer tx]

Lookin good Howie, keep at it.:smash:

[Planetwarmer]

Im 6'5", and fit just fine in the bilge of my 22.

[thehow33]

Im 6'5", and fit just fine in the bilge of my 22.

I fit in it, but by no means is it comfortable. I have 2 batteries that are in front of the motor so i have about 5inches between the batteries and and the front of the motor. It would make a huge difference if they weren'ti located there.

[Ed Donnelly]

Try it with a trs and tranny ......................Ed

[thehow33]

Try it with a trs and tranny ......................Ed

haven't thought of that one....only thing I have to say to that is, Better you than me.:tongue:

[thehow33]

any time howie! :)

Ever see a 6.0' guy in a 22 bilage with the motor in it?


hey whats with the poor photography? you only took one picture of my GOOD side! lol

[mrfixxall]

hey whats with the poor photography? you only took one picture of my GOOD side! lol


you wouldn't be refering to pic 3 would ya? :)

[thehow33]

just some pics of installing the engine.

[Pismo]

Love the night time operation, true devotion..

[thehow33]

Love the night time operation, true devotion..

haha...yes it is...the gimble bearing really slowed us up. It was completely stuck and wouldn't come out with a fairly heavy slide hammer. We really wanted to get it out while the motor was out. Of course it didn't work that way, but Fixx ended up having the right type of puller. Just took a puller with constant pressure.

Ended up ordering a Holley 750cfm electric choke with vacuum secondaries.

[thehow33]

this site has some decent prices, especially on molded hoses.
http://www.marineengineparts.com/

[thehow33]

oil lines, fuel lines, headers, and all but one cooling one is on. The Carb is going on tomorrow.

[farmer tx]

Looks good Howie, looks like you are on schedule.:yes:

[thehow33]

Looks good Howie, looks like you are on schedule.:yes:


Thanks, Matt found some 40w in michigan yesterday too!!

[farmer tx]

Thanks, Matt found some 40w in michigan yesterday too!!

Cool, thats getting hard to do.

[BUIZILLA]

NAPA carries the Delo 400-40w in stock :)

I spent two friggin hours yesterday working on a D398 Cat that the whole governor problem was the crap 15-40 Shell oil... :mad:

[VetteLT193]

Im 6'5", and fit just fine in the bilge of my 22.

I have no problem getting in. Getting out always seems to be the problem.

[thehow33]

The carburetor is on and well of course the flame arrestor doesn't fit, but it sure looks nice. maybe i'll just drive with the hatch open a little.haha

Ok so I got my trim pump working, all gauges have power, all other accessories work, but when I checked to see if the motor would turn over. my ignition circuit breaker popped. So I'll be figuring out where I went wrong. Any ideas?

[thehow33]

i got 6"x23" taylor fenders on sale for $20 at go2marine.com (any color)

[mrfixxall]

i got 6"x23" taylor fenders on sale for $20 at go2marine.com (any color)


howey,we yie up alot to other boats (mine being last!) thease seem to work the best..

http://www.go2marine.com/product.do?no=93548F

[farmer tx]

Well, did you here the music?

[mrfixxall]

Well, did you here the music?


He will be bringing it over to Fixx's shop tomorrow afternoon for the final tune process :) Will post a video as follows:wrench:

[thehow33]

Actually, I got it started right up once I primed the fuel line and turned the housing counter clockwise 1/4 in. It was music to my ears. I will post a video tomorrow.
Yesterday, trueser and matt helped changed the shift cable. I think I will be taking her for her maiden voyage on friday.

[thehow33]

Did I mention how loud she was. WOW.........

[The Hedgehog]

NAPA carries the Delo 400-40w in stock :)

I spent two friggin hours yesterday working on a D398 Cat that the whole governor problem was the crap 15-40 Shell oil... :mad:

Yep, its the only place to get it around here.

[mrfixxall]

After figuring out the shifting problem, pulling drive and installing a new inner shift cable, then straightening out the winng plate bolt issues,set timing and fiddling with the carb which still isnt rite as of yet!! it runs!! :)

heres a short video clip,,please excuse the video,ita a little crappy..


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0VqBAGeercQ

[thehow33]

After figuring out the shifting problem, pulling drive and installing a new inner shift cable, then straightening out the winng plate bolt issues,set timing and fiddling with the carb which still isnt rite as of yet!! it runs!! :)

heres a short video clip,,please excuse the video,ita a little crappy..


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0VqBAGeercQ

Thanks Fixx, Not only did you save my arse, but you explained everything you did. I learned a lot tonight. I even saw some tools that I never knew existed. I didn't realize how late it was until my wife called.HAHA That was extremely nice of you to do all of that for me. You are getting a steak dinner and drinks and you can't say no. I told my wife everything you did and she says thank you too. :)