REAL time help, Transom seal quick fix?

[ZekesterbluH3]

I keep the Hornet in the water...a few days ago, I noticed a trickle, 1/2" wide seeping in on the inside from behind the transom plate. I assume the cork seal is shot. Can I get away with pulling the boat, running a bead of silicone around the transom plate on the outside, as a temporary fix? I only have a few weeks of season left, and would rather not have to pull upper and lower unit and the plate right now...

[axelkloehn]

A strong bilge pump with a float switch... :wink:

[BUIZILLA]

try tightening the transom plate fasteners? :crossfing:

[ZekesterbluH3]

my bilge pump has no problem keeping up, I'm worried about my battery dying, i don't have shorepower, no charger on board...I'm pulling it this aft, letting it sit afew days then will try the silicone, if you guys think i can get away with it...

[axelkloehn]

I did it once with a carbody sealing compound (black, white or grey stuff called "sikaflex" in germany). Worked well, really sticks and dries quiet fast (2-3 hrs)...:crossfing:

p.s.: make sure it does NOT come through one of your fasteners/screws...

[Ed Donnelly]

Bull Seal.. Adheres to wet and dry surfaces.. Its an adhesive and sealant
Works on my boilers..
You can get it at Mckay boiler supplies
1 Whitmore Rd in Woodbridge 905 265 8130 ask for Will
A little closer than Hamburg:wink::wink:...Ed

[axelkloehn]

A little closer than Hamburg:wink::wink:...Ed[/quote]



...you bet! :wink:

[ZekesterbluH3]

I have sikaflex on hand...about 5 different types, i'm going away for a few days, so the plan is, pull it, let it sit a few days, then seal it, then sit, then back in..

unles i get ambitous and just do the seal, I'm looking into that now....

[thescooter]

i used 3M 5200. (sika is ok i only used it once) but i always us 5200. i cleaned the two surfaces surgically clean, use sand paper, paint remover and lacquer thinner. let the surface air dry, apply 5200 let sit 24 hours (get the fast setting one).
it was to be a quick fix, i let it on, it has not leaked in 3 years now! i never removed the transom plate. the better you clean the area the better chance you have for it to stick and make a water tight seal or bond. if you clean and apply correctly you maybe happy.
good luck it worked for me!
thescooter

[thescooter]

i used 3M 5200. (sika is ok i only used it once) but i always us 5200. i cleaned the two surfaces surgically clean, use sand paper, paint remover and lacquer thinner. let the surface air dry, apply 5200 let sit 24 hours (get the fast setting one).
it was to be a quick fix, i let it on, it has not leaked in 3 years now! i never removed the transom plate. the better you clean the area the better chance you have for it to stick and make a water tight seal or bond. if you clean and apply correctly you maybe happy.
good luck it worked for me!
thescooter"you never no till you try"

[MOP]

Are you 100% sure of where exactly the water is coming in??? My first guess that if you are having a problem seeing exactly where is the bellows is leaking! It is very rare for a transom shield to leak unless it is badly corroded.

Phil

[gcarter]

I agree w/Phil.
Bellows wear out and leak just for the fun of it.

[ZekesterbluH3]

the pieces of the cork gasket that are exposed are crumbly...the boat sat outside for 10 years...

On a TRS any other ideas where I should look? I will start with torquing down the fasteners, maybe that's all I need, I have two streams coming in, one 1/2" wide at about 4 o'clock looking from the front, another 1/4" wide at 8 o'clock...just steady trickles down the transom...

[BUIZILLA]

there are 6 large nuts inboard, 3 on each inboard side of the transom plate, do those FIRST..

then there are smaller nuts on the exhaust adapter housing, not the 3 bolt thru hull connection, but the actual square-ish housing that fastens to the transom housing itself, a couple are very difficult, but with a 1/4" drive swivel setup you can reach them, the lower are a pain and you have to get underneath the pan with your arm but it is doable... refloat and recheck...

if it still drips, then the gasket is toast... you can trim the excess gasket externally flush with the housing, and then run a smoothed bead of 4200 around the housing to transom joint in a clean fashion, let sit overnight.. I wouldn't use 5200...

[ZekesterbluH3]

thanks for the tips, no i stay away from 5200, when I saw a 5200 bedded cleat that was unbolted, take gelcoat off when a guy tried to remove it...

If I am getting those two streams is that a positive indication of the transom seal, what I'm getting at, could it be anything else? the water is coming in clearly between the housing and the transom...

[CaribouLou]

Use 5200 if you have no plans of ever taking it apart.