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rumshaker
08-21-2009, 05:30 PM
I have a 1998 28ZX and the Horn, Bildge, ACC1,ACC2, swithces stoped working at the same time and no light on switches.
I took the switch panel out and didnt see any obvious wires out. Any clues what could cause these to stop working at the same time?

mrfixxall
08-21-2009, 05:44 PM
I have a 1998 28ZX and the Horn, Bildge, ACC1,ACC2, swithces stoped working at the same time and no light on switches.
I took the switch panel out and didnt see any obvious wires out. Any clues what could cause these to stop working at the same time?


Bad circuit braker or look for a fuse panel and check for a blown fuse..

Dr. David Fleming
08-21-2009, 06:26 PM
My 22 ZX is wired in this way. The two batteries are on a selector switch. Power is taken from he hot terminal (one wired to the battery) to the "bilge pump" circuit breaker and then also to another breaker for "constant power" for the stereo memory and auto fire extinguisher so that they work no matter what is turned on or off.

Another power circuit from the battery switch is for the dashboard and ignition circuit and is taken from the "on" side of of this master battery switch - in other words you have to turn on the battery switch to get power so it goes through the switch - this is wired to a "Helm" breaker switch - 40 Amps which protects all the circuits which are not critical to keeping your boat afloat. The "Helm" breaker is then wired to the ignition switch and to a fuse pannel under the dash which has fuses for all the lights etc. If the "helm" breaker pops off you have no power to any of these dasboard circuits.

There is an electrical test instrument which is like an ice pick with a light in the handle - it has a wire to connect to the negative side of the battery. If you ground this wire and then probe for the current you can usually find the problem.

For example, put the wire on the negative battery terminal and then touch the positive and it will light. then go to the power side of the battery switch and it should light. Then go to the "On" side do the battery switch and it should light if the battery switch is on 1 or 2 or All. Then go the the "helm" breaker and test for power on the input side and output side. If no power turn on the breaker or replace it. Then test the wire that goes to the igniton or fuse pannel under the dash. You can check the individual fuses by pulling them out and looking for blown fuses. Just keep going until the test tool does not light.

Some circuits have their own little fuses in the wiring assembly, like the radios or Bennett Trim Tabs have a little fuse in the wiring harness. K - Planes have a big circuit breaker in the pannel and also a small 10 amp to protect the control circuit it is usually on the top of the pump. Same with Mercruiser trim pump. The engine has several breaker switches located in the engine wiring. Corsa Exhaust deverters have a breaker on the exhaust manifold -

Man all this stuff is to keep your boat from fire if something goes wrong. Got to look all over for these fuses and breakers.

Hope this helps,

Dr. D

rumshaker
08-22-2009, 12:46 PM
Thanks for the advice guys!

I looked behind the rocker switches and could not find a single fuse for any of the rocker switches. My cabin lights, nav lights, blower, and cockpit lights rocker switches on the same panel still work. It's only the horn, acc1, acc2, and bildge that are not working.

With that said, i looked at all the circuit breakers and did find that the circuit breaker for the auto bildge was poped out. I reset it and still those switches as stated are not working.

Is there one circuit breaker that is common for just those switches?






My 22 ZX is wired in this way. The two batteries are on a selector switch. Power is taken from he hot terminal (one wired to the battery) to the "bilge pump" circuit breaker and then also to another breaker for "constant power" for the stereo memory and auto fire extinguisher so that they work no matter what is turned on or off.

Another power circuit from the battery switch is for the dashboard and ignition circuit and is taken from the "on" side of of this master battery switch - in other words you have to turn on the battery switch to get power so it goes through the switch - this is wired to a "Helm" breaker switch - 40 Amps which protects all the circuits which are not critical to keeping your boat afloat. The "Helm" breaker is then wired to the ignition switch and to a fuse pannel under the dash which has fuses for all the lights etc. If the "helm" breaker pops off you have no power to any of these dasboard circuits.

There is an electrical test instrument which is like an ice pick with a light in the handle - it has a wire to connect to the negative side of the battery. If you ground this wire and then probe for the current you can usually find the problem.

For example, put the wire on the negative battery terminal and then touch the positive and it will light. then go to the power side of the battery switch and it should light. Then go to the "On" side do the battery switch and it should light if the battery switch is on 1 or 2 or All. Then go the the "helm" breaker and test for power on the input side and output side. If no power turn on the breaker or replace it. Then test the wire that goes to the igniton or fuse pannel under the dash. You can check the individual fuses by pulling them out and looking for blown fuses. Just keep going until the test tool does not light.

Some circuits have their own little fuses in the wiring assembly, like the radios or Bennett Trim Tabs have a little fuse in the wiring harness. K - Planes have a big circuit breaker in the pannel and also a small 10 amp to protect the control circuit it is usually on the top of the pump. Same with Mercruiser trim pump. The engine has several breaker switches located in the engine wiring. Corsa Exhaust deverters have a breaker on the exhaust manifold -

Man all this stuff is to keep your boat from fire if something goes wrong. Got to look all over for these fuses and breakers.

Hope this helps,

Dr. D

Dr. David Fleming
08-24-2009, 11:18 AM
You still are going to have to get serious and find the "open circuit." Something is not getting electrical power. You have to remember that unlike an auto that uses the frame of the car and dash for a "ground" circuit the boat has to have a negative circuit wired in.

Electricity goes from a number of breakers or switches to an appliance and then returns to the power source by wires. By the way when you have a number of switches in a row, they sometimes jump the power from one switch to the next with a wiring harness. Take the dash instruments for example - one will recieve a power wire connection - say dark blue wire - then they will run a wire from that instrument to the next and from that one to the next etc. So if you are looking for the power to an instrument or switch sometimes its power is from the instrument or switch next to it.

My donzi the Dasboard switches on the panel often get jumped from the next one. Donzi also has a color code for its wires and it is in the owners manual.

Red - Wires on positive side of battery that go to fuses or circuit breakers, to distribution panels and high-draw equipment (engine starters) start ignition switches, and to meters.

Yellow with Red striupe - Wire from starter to starter switch solonoid.

yellow - Power lead to bilge blower from a fuse or switch

Dark Grey - Wire between navigation lights and fuse.
also Sensor wire from tachometer sender to tachometer.

Brown - Leads to bilge pumps from fuses or switches

Purple - Wire between ignition switch and coil

Dark Blue - Wire from switches or fuses to instrument and cabin lights.

Light Blue - Sensor wire from engine oil pressure sender to oil pressure gauge. (The pressure sensor is likely to have three wires: light blue wire from sender, black negative wire to ground or return, and purple hot wire from switch or fuse.)

Tan - Sensor wire from water temperature sender to water temperature gauge.

Pink - Sensor wire from fuel tank level sender to fuel gauge

Green - Bonding wires; normally do not carry current.


If you have the electrical probe I described earlier - it is easy to find a ground source and look for the electrical power - this is a basic tool like a hammer - how you going to drive nails with out a hammer? Get your probe and start looking for the "open circuit."

Dr. d

The Hedgehog
08-24-2009, 11:39 AM
You will need to get a probe like they said. It is probably a switch or breaker like Fixx said.

I would not be surprised if a few other switches start acting strangely. This happens in my 1999 ZX as well and the probe toke out a bunch of guesswork.

VetteLT193
08-24-2009, 11:47 AM
..... By the way when you have a number of switches in a row, they sometimes jump the power from one switch to the next with a wiring harness. Take the dash instruments for example - one will recieve a power wire connection - say dark blue wire - then they will run a wire from that instrument to the next and from that one to the next etc. So if you are looking for the power to an instrument or switch sometimes its power is from the instrument or switch next to it......

I think this is the problem... I'm guessing a bad ground wire. If memory serves correct, the 4 switches in question are all together? at the right side of the dash?

Check the grounds on them first!!!! the place in question will be between bilge (i think) and the switch to the left of it.

rumshaker
08-27-2009, 11:23 AM
I think this is the problem... I'm guessing a bad ground wire. If memory serves correct, the 4 switches in question are all together? at the right side of the dash?

Check the grounds on them first!!!! the place in question will be between bilge (i think) and the switch to the left of it.


Well the problem to this was the circuit breaker to the ACC1 switch. There was no voltage coming out of the circuit breaker to the switch. The ACC1 switch feeds the other switches. Thanks everyone for the help!

mrfixxall
08-27-2009, 12:50 PM
Well the problem to this was the circuit breaker to the ACC1 switch. There was no voltage coming out of the circuit breaker to the switch. The ACC1 switch feeds the other switches. Thanks everyone for the help!

Cool!! Glad you got it working again..