Brass drain plug install?

[HOWARD O]

I have had a new brass drain plug, the kind with the 3 screw flange, in my box of goodies for a while now. Boat has the std. drain tube and I am on the fence about installing the brass one. I know the brass unit is more secure but I also know the bilge won't drain as completely too.

Should I install the new one and what's the procedure? Leave the existing drain tube in place and use 4200 or silicone to seal? If it requires removing the drain tube and filling completely, I believe I'll leave that as a winter project.... :yes:

[BlownCrewCab]

No problem at all, Remove the drain tube, and now is a good time to check the condition of the wood in your transom. Seal it with Resin or good epoxy if needed. and install the 3 screw flange with some 4200 or 5200. Make sure you use the correct drill bit for the Stainless Flat head screws you use, they break easily. Easy Job......

[Donzi Vol]

No problem at all, Remove the drain tube, and now is a good time to check the condition of the wood in your transom. Seal it with Resin or good epoxy if needed. and install the 3 screw flange with some 4200 or 5200. Make sure you use the correct drill bit for the Stainless Flat head screws you use, they break easily. Easy Job......

Hmmmm...that sounds like some fun for this weekend :wink: I still have some grinding to do, don't I?

[MOP]

Howard don't worry about any water lingering in the bilge, I am a nut about having any water in my bilge. What I do is to tear a strip of towel about an inch wide 8-10 inches long fold it over the end of a screw driver and shove it in the drain leaving about four inches hanging out. It wicks out every bit of water leaving my bilge dusty dry.

Phil

[zelatore]

Howard don't worry about any water lingering in the bilge, I am a nut about having any water in my bilge. What I do is to tear a strip of towel about an inch wide 8-10 inches long fold it over the end of a screw driver and shove it in the drain leaving about four inches hanging out. It wicks out every bit of water leaving my bilge dusty dry.

Phil

Dude - that's freakin' brilliant! I knew we kept you around this board for some reason!

[Tony]

Damn, Phil, I guess after so many years of experience some people know just about know every little trick in the book! :wink: :pimp: :yes:


:beer:

[CHACHI]

Howard, I did this on my Minx a few years back when the transom tube was weeping.

Took a hack saw blade and cut thru the tube from the outside, once thru, I folded the tube in on itself and pushed it into the bilge.

I then cleaned up the hole with a Dremel and a small sanding drum, applyed some resin, let it set and then attached the plate with the 3 screws.

FWIW, my drain tube had no sealant on it at all. It was just crimped to the transom on the inside and outside.

Is you Wellcraft still in the water, you can do the job from the swim platform.

Ken

[gcarter]

If you do change it, you won't be able to install one of the super slick oil pan drain hoses that goes through that fitting you're thinking of.

It don't take much to install a new brass tube.

The other thing that always concerns me is what if the plug unscrews from vibration or something?
A properly installed expanding rubber plug is never coming out w/o that being your intention.

[HOWARD O]

I am one to like a dry, clean bilge. For if there's water in there and it's not from rain, washing the boat or folks climbing in and out of the water, I know I may have a problem. There is nothing wrong with my current setup, it's not leaking and I believe it to be sealed well (not positive on that though). On the other hand, I can see that rubber stopper coming out, somehow....some way!

George, I have never had a problem with one of the screw in brass plugs vibrating out. But your point about not getting an oil discharge tube through there is one I didn't consider. My brother has that setup on his 16 and it's great for changing oil. I use a pump for changing the oil right now. My method is to warm up the engine, shut it off and QUICKLY get the tube in there to pump it out, hoping most of the crap is still suspended and getting pumped out. I know I am only getting a majority of any contaminents out and because of that, I change my oil more frequently than normal. I would like to change over to a hose connected to the oil pan.

Ken, do you suppose you would've converted over to the flange type if you didn't have any leak?

I'm still up in the air. :nilly: But whether or not I do change it, I think it would be wise to check the condition of the original tube. It should be sealed up on the outside of it, that's for sure. Planning to either replace or rebuild the engine this winter and will decide if I'll go with an oil discharge line at that time.....so I guess I'll just leave it as is until then. :yes:

Thanks for the great advice, I am now loaded with more knowledge to make my decision more difficult! :kingme:

[HOWARD O]

Is you Wellcraft still in the water, you can do the job from the swim platform.

Ken

Hehe, no, thankfully, it's not still in the water! But a friend actually towed a big, 12' x 12' floating dock down to my place a couple weeks ago! It's a thing of beauty and makes a great platform to get around the outside of the boat. :yes:

[CHACHI]

Howard, if the original didn't leak, it would still be there when I sold the boat. I too like a dry bilge.

Don't worry about the oil drain hose, Mercury makes a kit that fits thru the transom plug hole.

Ken

[The Hedgehog]

That's good info.

I have been considering that on the X-18.

BTW, I have one of the drain tubes on the ZX and it will fit through the brass drain plug hole just fine.