Rust Reformer

[Ghost]

Just curious if there is something I am missing on this subject. I see a lot of folks use wire brushes to clean up rust spots, and then paint them. My experience is the rust is never fully gotten rid of, and comes back through the paint. I've got a few things now (some of my drivetrain HW, motor mounts, etc, that have some rust spots that look like it makes sense to tackle.

I used a little Rust Reformer about 20 years ago when I first heard of it. Seemed like a wonder product to me, but I never got a lot of experience with it over the longer term.

So, with that in mind, my inclination is to brush up rust spots, treat them with Rust Reformer, and then maybe spray a little topcoat of paint. Just wondering if there are any major DOs or DON'Ts about using the stuff, or arguments for just brushing and painting.

Thanks for any thoughts,

Mike

[MOP]

The ship yard out here that services the Coast Guard boat put me onto Pettit RustLoc, I used on my manifolds, valve covers and pan on the 16 after 3 years salt running not one spec of rust. If you can live with a nice bright silver color no need to over coat, it is extremely thin to penetrate deep and believe me it does. Below id a shot of the engine when I sold the boat!

http://www.pettitpaint.com/fileshare/product_pds/1698006.pdf

[fogducker III]

Donziweasel (John) pointed me in the direction of POR-15. I must say, I am VERY impressed with this suff. I have used other so called rust inhibitors, removers etc. and have found this to be some of the best.:)

[Cuda]

Every hardware store or home improvement store will have their own brand. I forget what kind of acid has a chemical reaction with the rust. The first brand I ever used was called "Extend". I brush it, treat it, then use a good primer before painting anything.

Remember, Rust never Sleeps.

[zelatore]

I had a friend who swore by POR15 for chassis work on some of his old Alfas. (and if you work on old Italian cars, you know a thing or two about rust)

One thing about it - you don't want to sand the stuff. Hard as a rock!

[Just Say N20]

Would any of these products be appropriate for the engine block?

The Volvo engine in my 16 is flaking chunks the size of dimes! :shocking::shocking:

[BigGrizzly]

Ghost that stuff was used on inside of auto fenders during the 1970s rust clean up of Honda's. It works well. I think the POr15 is at least as good. Rust scale should always be wire brushed off first this gives a better penetration. As for engine blocke I see no reason it can't be used.

[Cuda]

I use a product called Etch and Clean. It cuts rust and treats it. I bought it at Lowes. It will work on any steel, and ever concrete. It's put out by some company called something and Klean.

[Cuda]

Btw, it has a phosphoric acid base.

[Ghost]

Just a quick thanks for all the good info. -Mike

[joseph m. hahnl]

Donziweasel (John) pointed me in the direction of POR-15. I must say, I am VERY impressed with this suff. I have used other so called rust inhibitors, removers etc. and have found this to be some of the best.:)

Paint Over Rust -15 "Just what it says". No need to remove the rust, just go right over it. This stuff is designed for under carriages and body panels
and if you think the oceans hard on stuff, try diving on northern road

Be forewarned, nothing, absolutely no solvent will remove POR-15 when it is dry ,so don't get it on your skin.