Intermittent hatch ram

[The Hedgehog]

My hatch ram is behaving strangely.

Eddie thinks it is the switch. I am sure that he is probably right. The switch is only a year or so old. I had to abandon ship for dinner. Tomorrow I will take out the switch and hotwire around it.

Anyone else have this problem?

I bet that I have a new quick release pin on order tomorrow though.

[SilverBack]

My hatch ram is behaving strangely.

Eddie thinks it is the switch. I am sure that he is probably right. The switch is only a year or so old. I had to abandon ship for dinner. Tomorrow I will take out the switch and hotwire around it.

Anyone else have this problem?

I bet that I have a new quick release pin on order tomorrow though.

If I let my batteries get low at all mine does not want to go back down. If it is really low it does not want to go up. Do you have the Bennet ram with the reservoir on the bulkhead? I am getting rid of mine all together. I am going to come up with something else if it kills me. I am thinking about something 30 lbs or less for a hatch and 4 pins. That crap gets on my nerves!!!

[SilverBack]

Oh yes..by the way...if yours weighs as much as mine...I hope that you do not break your arm when you try out that quick release pin!!:eek:

[MOP]

Darn thing is probably worn out:nilly:

Just kidding, Check the connector I have seen them work loose or also get a tad of corrosion inside the plug. it could very well be the switch or even the brushes go bad after a few years may need a look see.

Phil

[The Hedgehog]

Oh yes..by the way...if yours weighs as much as mine...I hope that you do not break your arm when you try out that quick release pin!!:eek:

Like I said, I have almost been stuck under mine too! It probably would break my arm if I did it wrong!

I lost the Benette stuff.

[The Hedgehog]

Darn thing is probably worn out:nilly:

Just kidding, Check the connector I have seen them work loose or also get a tad of corrosion inside the plug. it could very well be the switch or even the brushes go bad after a few years may need a look see.

Phil

I cleaned all the connectors with contact cleaner last time it did this.

I may have worn it out though. Once the 850 got done I spent hours in the driveway just raising and lowering the hatch. I would lower the hatch and sit down and gaze at the dash. Then I would raise the hatch and gaze at the motor. I felt sooooo important. Is that abnormal behavior?:nilly:

Now I am doing the same with my Kplanes. I am scared if I got an Arneson or one of those drives that Keith is contemplating that I would just move into the garage. That would probably not be my choice though!:shocking:

[MOP]

I felt sooooo important. Is that abnormal behavior?:nilly:

A great toy can get you dreaming!!!!!!

[SilverBack]

I started to say that you must have worn out the ram looking at your engine every day.:wink:

[WifeHatesMyDonzi]

I have a new hatch actuator being shipped as I type this. The previous owner discarded the original one, so everything is still wired as originally done from the factory. I am concerned about what to do if the batteries are dead??? The quick release pin is only good if you have access.

Will this work-----What if when connecting the actuator wires to the existing wires going to the switch, I add 2 extra wires, cap them off, and drill a small hole somewhere hidden behind the back seat. This way in case of emergency I could connect them to an external battery. Just long enough to raise the hatch to gain access.

[The Hedgehog]

I have a new hatch actuator being shipped as I type this. The previous owner discarded the original one, so everything is still wired as originally done from the factory. I am concerned about what to do if the batteries are dead??? The quick release pin is only good if you have access.

Will this work-----What if when connecting the actuator wires to the existing wires going to the switch, I add 2 extra wires, cap them off, and drill a small hole somewhere hidden behind the back seat. This way in case of emergency I could connect them to an external battery. Just long enough to raise the hatch to gain access.

There is a quick release pin with a slide that enables you to lift the hatch about 4" to get to the pin. In the case of mine and Keith's boats, this would require 3 people but is doable

[WifeHatesMyDonzi]

I bought a Danaher from Rex Marine. The quick release pin that they offered did not have a slide. Where can I find one like yours and Keiths'??

[MOP]

I have a new hatch actuator being shipped as I type this. The previous owner discarded the original one, so everything is still wired as originally done from the factory. I am concerned about what to do if the batteries are dead??? The quick release pin is only good if you have access.

Will this work-----What if when connecting the actuator wires to the existing wires going to the switch, I add 2 extra wires, cap them off, and drill a small hole somewhere hidden behind the back seat. This way in case of emergency I could connect them to an external battery. Just long enough to raise the hatch to gain access.

If you don't mind waiting you can back feed the batteries with a charger using a cigarette lighter outlet, 20-30 minutes you are Ok. There is a faster/better setup which a couple of guys up here have done, what you do is to take a couple of 3/8" S/S bolts run nuts up under the heads to make then stick out far enough to attach jumper cable to once in place. Drill through into the engine compartment low by the back seat put the bolts in from the cockpit side and lock them in place with lock nuts and washers on the engine compartment side. To these two studs/bolts take #4 battery cable one to engine ground and one to the plus terminal on your battery. In the event of a dead battery just hook your cables to the bolt heads and lift the hatch. Placement of the bolts is kind of up to you, the few that I have done I put down about ankle high by the back seat about 15" apart, even if by chance some gets nosy 12 volts will tingle them but not hurt them. Believe me they have to make a real effort to get tingled!

Phil

[MOP]

Release pins are great but many hatches are heavy enough to put your Coglioni's in your sock and may lay you up for the weekend with a bad back!!!

[WifeHatesMyDonzi]

Release pins are great but many hatches are heavy enough to put your Coglioni's in your sock and may lay you up for the weekend with a bad back!!!


I've been lifting the hatch by hand since purchasing the boat a couple of months ago and; I am over that chitt. It makes you think twice before just taking a look see at the engine or checking the fluids even though you know that they are full. I like the studs/bolts idea. That sounds like the way to go.

[MOP]

I've been lifting the hatch by hand since purchasing the boat a couple of months ago and; I am over that chitt. It makes you think twice before just taking a look see at the engine or checking the fluids even though you know that they are full. I like the studs/bolts idea. That sounds like the way to go.

I had five Great Danes they love boats she is influencing the poor dog!

[The Hedgehog]

If you don't mind waiting you can back feed the batteries with a charger using a cigarette lighter outlet, 20-30 minutes you are Ok. There is a faster/better setup which a couple of guys up here have done, what you do is to take a couple of 3/8" S/S bolts run nuts up under the heads to make then stick out far enough to attach jumper cable to once in place. Drill through into the engine compartment low by the back seat put the bolts in from the cockpit side and lock them in place with lock nuts and washers on the engine compartment side. To these two studs/bolts take #4 battery cable one to engine ground and one to the plus terminal on your battery. In the event of a dead battery just hook your cables to the bolt heads and lift the hatch. Placement of the bolts is kind of up to you, the few that I have done I put down about ankle high by the back seat about 15" apart, even if by chance some gets nosy 12 volts will tingle them but not hurt them. Believe me they have to make a real effort to get tingled!

Phil

Or you could run a battery to the connectors at the back of the switch.

My main concern is the actual ram itself going out.

[MOP]

A tip I know from experiance you can have the motor rebuilt "once" by the time it gets cranky again the rams internals are in poor shape. They only last just so long quit looking at the damn engine!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[The Hedgehog]

A tip I know from experiance you can have the motor rebuilt "once" by the time it gets cranky again the rams internals are in poor shape. They only last just so long quit looking at the damn engine!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I can't help it.

That's good info though. If I can't totally isolate the problem to the switch the new ram will be on order. This has been bugging me for a while.

[The Hedgehog]

A tip I know from experiance you can have the motor rebuilt "once" by the time it gets cranky again the rams internals are in poor shape. They only last just so long quit looking at the damn engine!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

OK Phil. I could not help it. Eddie set me up with a big hydraulic ram that runs off a trim pump. I now have a single engine boat that has 4 trim pumps!:pimp: Oh yeah, I feel so important.

This thing flies now. It will lift 900 lbs and gave me another 1.5 feet of lift. If only I could figure out the video thing.

I will try to get some pics in a while

[Schnook]

I just changed out my trim ram style hydraulic lift for an electric one(danaher also), unbelievable difference. The other thing I'm going to install is a reversing relay in the engine compt. so the switch doesn't carry the whole load of the motor. It will also reduce the voltage drop by shortening the wire run to the motor. The electric lift I used is rated @ 1500# and also has a manual wind feature that I can access through an inspection port if the electric fails.

[The Hedgehog]

I just changed out my trim ram style hydraulic lift for an electric one(danaher also), unbelievable difference. The other thing I'm going to install is a reversing relay in the engine compt. so the switch doesn't carry the whole load of the motor. It will also reduce the voltage drop by shortening the wire run to the motor. The electric lift I used is rated @ 1500# and also has a manual wind feature that I can access through an inspection port if the electric fails.

Mine actually runs off a trim pump. Like one used for a lower unit or a Kplane. Ran the power straight off the battery like you mentioned and use the dash switch as a relay. Nice mod.

[Schnook]

My old unit was that exact set up except no relay, which I think was my real problem. They had the starboard output plugged and port went to the hatch ram, the unit was made by trim master. They were supposed to be good units with a lifetime warranty but unfortunately the company went out of business, I think someone in Fla. bought them. It was taking about 3 minutes to raise my hatch and sometimes it would only go up about halfway, I disassembled and cleaned the pump and flushed the ram as best as I could but no luck so I went electric, now my hatch is up in about 15 seconds.

[The Hedgehog]

My old unit was that exact set up except no relay, which I think was my real problem. They had the starboard output plugged and port went to the hatch ram, the unit was made by trim master. They were supposed to be good units with a lifetime warranty but unfortunately the company went out of business, I think someone in Fla. bought them. It was taking about 3 minutes to raise my hatch and sometimes it would only go up about halfway, I disassembled and cleaned the pump and flushed the ram as best as I could but no luck so I went electric, now my hatch is up in about 15 seconds.

I will post some pics. Mine uses two stainless hydraulic lines (both ports) and comes up in about 10 seconds. The ram is made by API Marine (apimarine.com). It works off the merc trim pump but does not sound like the EXACT setup.

[MOP]

So good to hear you can get it up easily again!

[The Hedgehog]

So good to hear you can get it up easily again!

LMAO. :)That is VERY important in my line of business!:yes:

[MOP]

:shocking::shocking::nilly:

[VetteLT193]

If you don't mind waiting you can back feed the batteries with a charger using a cigarette lighter outlet, 20-30 minutes you are Ok. There is a faster/better setup which a couple of guys up here have done, what you do is to take a couple of 3/8" S/S bolts run nuts up under the heads to make then stick out far enough to attach jumper cable to once in place. Drill through into the engine compartment low by the back seat put the bolts in from the cockpit side and lock them in place with lock nuts and washers on the engine compartment side. To these two studs/bolts take #4 battery cable one to engine ground and one to the plus terminal on your battery. In the event of a dead battery just hook your cables to the bolt heads and lift the hatch. Placement of the bolts is kind of up to you, the few that I have done I put down about ankle high by the back seat about 15" apart, even if by chance some gets nosy 12 volts will tingle them but not hurt them. Believe me they have to make a real effort to get tingled!

Phil

Mine came with the jumper / charger posts from the factory. in the gunwale by the driver's seat. It's pretty well hidden. they have red/black rubber caps to keep them covered and dry.

I also have a built in battery charger, the power plug is in the gunwale on the other side. It's more aft and easier to get to.

[BigGrizzly]

Boy, the Criterion s came with a trim ram and hydraulic trim pump. Fast durable reliable and strong, plus you are caring a spear pump. 2200 lifting and 900 closing pressure, what fun if some one is sitting on the hatch you don't want:yes::yes:

[Schnook]

I will post some pics. Mine uses two stainless hydraulic lines (both ports) and comes up in about 10 seconds. The ram is made by API Marine (apimarine.com). It works off the merc trim pump but does not sound like the EXACT setup.
I wish my setup would've performed like that, nice.

[Tim Morris]

Boy, the Criterion s came with a trim ram and hydraulic trim pump. Fast durable reliable and strong, plus you are caring a spear pump. 2200 lifting and 900 closing pressure, what fun if some one is sitting on the hatch you don't want:yes::yes:
No kidding! We all watched Ed Donnelly's go up & down 20-30 times
while he sorted out his repair shop's workmanship while at the Thousand
Islands event.
From a kink in the throttle cable, to the alternator belt wearing a hole through a water hose water hose.
I was impressed, especially after he removed the alternator belt. He
stopped several times during the run, lifted the hatch, ran two bilge pumps,
closed the hatch and [B][I]behold...[B][I] the thing would start again.

[MOP]

I think Ed was trying to beat Mr. Hog's count for one days operation!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[The Hedgehog]

I think Ed was trying to beat Mr. Hog's count for one days operation!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I usually just get mine up and keep it up:eek:

I knew I could count on Ed and Grizz to have proper hatch rams!

Mine also works as an ejection for bad passengers.

[Ed Donnelly]

Hedgehog; When you are pushing 65 and can get it up 20 - 30 times in a day with just a slight touch it means you are on Bennetts..............Ed

[MOP]

Sly Dog!

[The Hedgehog]

hedgehog; when you are pushing 65 and can get it up 20 - 30 times in a day with just a slight touch it means you are on bennetts..............ed

lmao!

[BUIZILLA]

send me some bennett's... :cool:

[Dr. David Fleming]

My 22ZX has an AccuLIft Inc electric ram. the motor magnets came loose and jammed the motor while the hatch was about two inches up. The only way into the engine compartment was to take loose the hinges at the transom with an open end/box end wrench. Then with enough extensions to drain the tool box - three feet from each side I was able to undo the top mounting bolt.

AccuLift is located in Melvindale, MI which is suburb of Detroit - great guys said, "just bring the ram down and we will fix it while you wait." 17516 Dix Road - 519-727-4255 Danny is there from 8 to 4:30. The ram needed a new motor made by FASCO in Canada $65. Could have ordered the motor my mail from Christy at 313-382-5121

Runs great now - if it busts in the down position? Just don't know.

Why is it folks are so facinated by this hatch ram. Whenever I put it up they just get ovewhelmed with this power thing? They stare and say OH wow - look at that!

By the way Donzi uses a foam in their upholstry that retains water - the wetter that hatch gets, the heavier it gets - they could have used the close cell foam that resist the water. Sometimes when my hatch is up it just drains and drains. Wonder if this slows down the boat? hauling all that soggy upholstry - man keep the cockpit cover on in the storm.

Dr. d