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View Full Version : Hatch won't open!



JeffH
07-28-2009, 07:33 AM
Guys,

Came down hard on wave this weekend and now my hatch won't open. The round latch turns, and feels the same, but can't get it open.

Any ideas?

Thanks,

Jeff

Kirbyvv
07-28-2009, 08:11 AM
I had this happen last year. The split pin that holds the latch mechanism closed had shifted and wouldn't release. You may have to remove the hinges and get at it from the back side. If it's the split pin it's a $1 part, just a royal pain to get the hatch released to get at it.

dfunde01
07-28-2009, 08:23 AM
I had this happen on a Classic 16. The lock is a shaft with a knob on the top and a rolled metal pin inserted through a hole drilled in the shaft on the other end of the shaft forming a T. The shaft goes through a hole in the lower part of the lock and locks the hatch down when twisted and when twisted back to line the pin up with the slot it went through to lock, it opens. The pin is held in place by friction and does not have a set screw. What happens is the pin vibrates to one side and extends past the end of the slot on one end not allowing it to clear to open.

On my Classic 16 we had to use a 4.5" hole saw to cut through the plywood behind the rear seat back, two holes in two pieces about 4 inches apart, to reach through and use a tool to recenter the pin on the shaft. We then sealed both holes with 4" inch round access hatch covers. Your only other option is to cut the shaft at the top and take a chance of damage to the engine compartment cover.

This happened to me during warranty and the factory was exactly zero help in solving the problem.

http://www.donzi.net/forums/showthread.php?t=40808

Let me know if this solves your problem. We tried for two months to find another solution.

JeffH
07-28-2009, 08:41 AM
What a royal PITA! I was thinking about removing the hinges on the hatch but my son pointed out I have hydrolic lifting arms.

Would I be able to get back part of the hatch up enough to reach the pin (the arms go the other way?)?

Also, what do you do to keep this from happening again?

Thanks for your help.

JH

gcarter
07-28-2009, 09:47 AM
What a royal PITA! I was thinking about removing the hinges on the hatch but my son pointed out I have hydrolic lifting arms.

Would I be able to get back part of the hatch up enough to reach the pin (the arms go the other way?)?

Also, what do you do to keep this from happening again?

Thanks for your help.

JH
Do you mean pneumatic lifts?
If yes, you can get in there and pop the lift's ends off.
Yes, you can easily re-use the pin just by spreading the pin a little with a flat blade screwdriver.
It's just a matter of tolerances of the pin diameter and the existing hole.
The pin is a spring, by spreading the pin a little, you're sesetting the spring a little by increasing the friction of the fit.

ghiafreak62
07-28-2009, 10:10 AM
My hinges are through bolted, how can you get the nuts off?

kcatucci
07-28-2009, 10:11 AM
On my Classic 16 we had to use a 4.5" hole saw to cut through the plywood behind the rear seat back, two holes in two pieces about 4 inches apart, to reach through and use a tool to recenter the pin on the shaft. We then sealed both holes with 4" inch round access hatch covers. Your only other option is to cut the shaft at the top and take a chance of damage to the engine compartment cover.


I would be sick to my stomach putting holes in my Donzi.

Kirbyvv
07-28-2009, 11:27 AM
jeff, I was able to get mine open after alot of twisting, pulling, etc. The pin fits in a slot, so it is suppose to release at 2 postions and be locked in at 90 and 270 degrees to that. It should be released with the "donzi" runing lengthwise to the boat. So try it in those two positions and "twist and shout", curse, etc. and see if you can get it out that way before you start cutting holes. I was about to give up when it suddenly came free. I bought a new split pin as mine was cracked. ACE hardware

Conquistador_del_mar
07-28-2009, 12:19 PM
These are all good ideas to try before resorting to something drastic like cutting an access hole. Here is another suggestion. Since the pin in the holddown is sideways when locked, you might try using an inspection mirror through the forward air vents (take them off) and see which way the pin has moved. With some finess, you should be able to push the pin back in place using a rod clamped with vice grips used as a fulcrum against the side of the air vent hole - just a thought. Make sense? It would be easier if someone took the pressure off the pin by pushing it down against the spring for better access and to reduce the friction. Bill

MOP
07-28-2009, 12:52 PM
Taking the hinges off is very risky to say the least, you can rip the piece that the latch goes into off. Best fix is one of those plastic hand holes, get a 6 inch so you have room to work. (A Possible) Try this first it may work loosen the latch then slowly rotate the top in an outward swing/rocking motion with light pressure up on one hatch corner. To get one corner up take a wire coat hanger and bend a small "L" on the end, stick it the hatch groove and pull it up enough to put something thin under. All you want is very light pressure or you can not work the latch well enough for it to slip thorough.

MOP
07-28-2009, 12:53 PM
These are all good ideas to try before resorting to something drastic like cutting an access hole. Here is another suggestion. Since the pin in the holddown is sideways when locked, you might try using an inspection mirror through the forward air vents (take them off) and see which way the pin has moved. With some finess, you should be able to push the pin back in place using a rod clamped with vice grips used as a fulcrum against the side of the air vent hole - just a thought. Make sense? It would be easier if someone took the pressure off the pin by pushing it down against the spring for better access and to reduce the friction. Bill

Bill I LIKE this one!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! You can always tell the guys that have good honest bilge time!!!!!!!!!!!

JeffH
07-28-2009, 01:04 PM
Wow, I certainly have a starting point now!

I do not want to cut any holes in the boat.

It is a pneumatic, not hydrolic lifting arm!

I will wrestle, bang, jimmy, and cuss:shocking:...and if that doesn't work I will try Conquestador's method (just went through the nut and bolt thing with seat base and it wasn't fun!).

Thanks Guy's!

I'll let you know how it works out (won't be able to get to it until the weekend).

Jeff

gcarter
07-28-2009, 01:24 PM
My hinges are through bolted, how can you get the nuts off?
You don't. just drill the screw heads off........carefully.

ZekesterbluH3
07-29-2009, 04:09 AM
Try here?

http://www.donzi.net/forums/showthread.php?t=54021

What boat is it? on my H3, I could remove one vent and get my arm in to pull the pin...I loctited the new pin....

DONZI
07-29-2009, 05:52 AM
Blanket,small piece of wood & prybar under knob.
Little pin bends and hatch opens.:wink:

JeffH
07-29-2009, 11:15 AM
It's a '97 Classic 18. Is the pin small enough that I can use a pry bar without damaging anything? That sounds the easiest!

JeffH
07-29-2009, 11:19 AM
I just read the post from '08...a lot of good ideas here and there.:yes:

I'll let ya'll know which works!

Thanks Again! My weekend project.

dfunde01
07-29-2009, 02:24 PM
It's a '97 Classic 18. Is the pin small enough that I can use a pry bar without damaging anything? That sounds the easiest!

I would not risk it.

mrfixxall
07-29-2009, 03:42 PM
i changed mine t a ss sher pin then drilled ans taped mine and added a set screw,,its not going to move anymore:)

DONZI
07-29-2009, 03:45 PM
If you have this style pic.'d below.
You can see how tweaking the roll pin ends downward by prying up will allow you to turn the pin to the opening.

JeffH
07-29-2009, 04:18 PM
I believe that is the style I have...but can't see it now!

dfunde01
08-20-2009, 11:51 AM
Jeff,

How did you resolve the problem?