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MOP
07-21-2009, 08:20 AM
I have posted on this before, there are a lot of our boats with the carb slider removed. The carb slider is an important feature, the object of the slide link is to allow the drive to engage before any throttle is applied. With out the slider many experience hard engagement and other shifting problems.

The slider link was designed by Volvo to give both proper engagement and silky smooth shifts, it was designed to be used with the Morse 33C cable. Correct adjustment is as follows, your cable should have two nuts on its end that get locked together. The nuts are not suppose to be on each side of the slider link! Start by moving the nuts to the very end of the cable then go forward and put the throttle lever at the full throttle position, now manually move the carbs throttle arm to full throttle run the nuts up to the slider block and lock them together. Now go forward and move the throttle lever to neutral, go back and look at the linkage you will see the nuts will be about 1/2" forward of the slider. Now when you move the lever to shift the drive will smoothly engage first then the linkage will engage the carb and yes you will have full throttle! From having run a Volvo dealership I know even many manufacturers do not know how to setup the carb linkage properly. Below a couple of pictures of a dual cable link, many will recognize this carb that came off a 255 Volvo. Using the slide link reduces shock to all of the drives components and makes shifting so smooth you it will amaze you! Without the slide link you are hammerering your drive into gear!

Phil

DonziBuoy
07-21-2009, 12:12 PM
I have posted on this before, there are a lot of our boats with the carb slider removed. The carb slider is an important feature, the object of the slide link is to allow the drive to engage before any throttle is applied. With out the slider many experience hard engagement and other shifting problems.

The slider link was designed by Volvo to give both proper engagement and silky smooth shifts, it was designed to be used with the Morse 33C cable. Correct adjustment is as follows, your cable should have two nuts on its end that get locked together. The nuts are not suppose to be on each side of the slider link! Start by moving the nuts to the very end of the cable then go forward and put the throttle lever at the full throttle position, now manually move the carbs throttle arm to full throttle run the nuts up to the slider block and lock them together. Now go forward and move the throttle lever to neutral, go back and look at the linkage you will see the nuts will be about 1/2" forward of the slider. Now when you move the lever to shift the drive will smoothly engage first then the linkage will engage the carb and yes you will have full throttle! From having run a Volvo dealership I know even many manufacturers do not know how to setup the carb linkage properly. Below a couple of pictures of a dual cable link, many will recognize this carb that came off a 255 Volvo. Using the slide link reduces shock to all of the drives components and makes shifting so smooth you it will amaze you! Without the slide link you are hammerering your drive into gear!

Phil


Phil, this information is really priceless on this board - what if I do not have that particular slider - should I get this one? My carb is an Edelbrock, if that means anything.

I will go down and check it out.

THanks!

Jim

MOP
07-21-2009, 02:06 PM
If you have screw type cable end simply drill it out so the cable can slide freely, if you don't have one try to find one of the types pictured below. Or grab one off an old Volvo carb! You will love the results, it always amazes me how some put up with being without the proper cable hookup.

The two pictured one must be drilled the other you can take the screw barrel out! I have a few that may work let me know if you get stuck!

DonziBuoy
07-21-2009, 02:49 PM
Thanks much Phil. This information on this site is really good, we ought to catagorize it somehow.


Jim

TXDONZI
07-22-2009, 08:36 PM
What does the carb. bracket for a single cable and or/a Holley look like?

MOP
07-22-2009, 09:03 PM
Basically where the cable hooks to the carb it must be able to slide through the trunnion, first the drive engages the a little more and the throttle comes on. Next time I am out a the shop I will try to get a couple of pictures on a stock Volvo engine.

Tank
07-23-2009, 09:29 AM
Tanks Mop
Myns wrong it explains a lot.
Tank

MOP
07-23-2009, 10:07 AM
Don't feel bad if yours is not setup right it is very common when guys change carbs, many times it was done by one of the previous owners. I will try to take a few pictures today that will help most of you to get it fixed, the results are more then pleasing. Without the slide it is like hitting the gears with a hammer every time you shift, you should feel almost nothing when going into gear.

Bobby D
07-23-2009, 03:50 PM
Mop,
Your explanation helps me understand why my old Volvo 250 shifts so smooth, the Morse only controls the out drive shifting in and out of gear and my foot throttle controls the gas. Gas never competes with shifting I have the idle set at about 650 rpms and when I shift it just happens.

MOP
07-23-2009, 06:12 PM
Mop,
Your explanation helps me understand why my old Volvo 250 shifts so smooth, the Morse only controls the out drive shifting in and out of gear and my foot throttle controls the gas. Gas never competes with shifting I have the idle set at about 650 rpms and when I shift it just happens.

Exactly that was there intent, the drive is amazingly strong and silky smooth shifting when setup right.

I went to two marinas today to try for a couple of pictures, to my dismay there were no older Volvos to be had, I hope one of the other members posts a few shots. I will give another marina or two a try over the next few days.

TXDONZI
07-23-2009, 08:39 PM
Attacted is the carb bracket and spring loaded slider that came on my AQ290A eng. pkg (L-82 Vet. Motor) with a 280PT drive. The carb. on it when I got it was a spread bore Holley then I put (I know I know) a Holley 750 vac. sec. when I built the 383SBC. It was a 79-80 pkg. and I got the boat in 1991 from the original owner but still I am not sure it was the original setup. Since it had a Accel distributor in it... the carb. could have been changed too. I changed the cable bracket when I did the engine. It came from Summit Racing and is a CIS for a Morse cable.

MOP
07-24-2009, 08:34 AM
Attacted is the carb bracket and spring loaded slider that came on my AQ290A eng. pkg (L-82 Vet. Motor) with a 280PT drive. The carb. on it when I got it was a spread bore Holley then I put (I know I know) a Holley 750 vac. sec. when I built the 383SBC. It was a 79-80 pkg. and I got the boat in 1991 from the original owner but still I am not sure it was the original setup. Since it had a Accel distributor in it... the carb. could have been changed too. I changed the cable bracket when I did the engine. It came from Summit Racing and is a CIS for a Morse cable.

BLESS YOU! Thanks a bunch!
If you have a carb lever return spring you do not need the spring loaded trunnion the ability to have the cable slide is what is important.
The one you have pictured was the one where the cable came from the from of the engine, it would push back until it hit the back stop nut then engage the drive. With a rear entry cable it pulls instead of pushing so the setup is a bit different.

Phil

Tank
07-24-2009, 12:07 PM
Hay Mop
how dos this look and what holds the sheath in the bracket?
Tank

TXDONZI
07-24-2009, 01:55 PM
This was setup as a rear pull system with a return spring as well and always was as far as I can tell. It was setup to where the spring was compressed about 1/4" - 1/2" at idle. When you engaged the drive (forward or reverse) it would pull back a bit releaving the spring before it pulled back on the throttle shaft arm and would not begin to throttle the engine right off. If I remember right it even pushed forward a bit as the drive was being engaging compressing the spring a bit more. It also has the Volvo Penta sigle lever control so maybe it has to be part of the system.

What does the carb. bracket look like for my setup with a Holley I'm not sure I HAD the right one? I messed up and gave the carb. away when I got a new one and forgot to remove the bracket......

I need to know how to get this hooked back to another Holley.. what adaptor\bracket do I need for the carburetor to attach the slider back to it?

DonziBuoy
07-24-2009, 04:16 PM
Where can one go to get the parts I live in LI, and forget about the local marinas, they don't know what I'm talking about. Can this be ordered from VOlvo? I have a Weber/Edelbrock set up.

Jim

MOP
07-24-2009, 08:12 PM
Where can one go to get the parts I live in LI, and forget about the local marinas, they don't know what I'm talking about. Can this be ordered from VOlvo? I have a Weber/Edelbrock set up.

Jim

I have two of the links like Tank has, you just need to cruise out here! We can figure out how to get it fixed. Phil

DonziBuoy
07-26-2009, 11:16 AM
Here is my set up. After the other day of again trying to dock at 10mph, I really need to get this slider. Phil would you know the part number and where I can order from. My local guys don't know what I am talking about. And yes, you give me a great reason to come out to Peconic - I have not been out there in a long time - I do seem to remember, sand bars everywhere. 8-)

MOP
07-26-2009, 01:00 PM
Here is my set up. After the other day of again trying to dock at 10mph, I really need to get this slider. Phil would you know the part number and where I can order from. My local guys don't know what I am talking about. And yes, you give me a great reason to come out to Peconic - I have not been out there in a long time - I do seem to remember, sand bars everywhere. 8-)

I probably have one that will fit, even if we adapt the Volvo carb arm I have to fit yours. But it would be simpler to use one of the little brass ones if they will fir.

Phil

Don't sweat the sand bars just watch the bouys! There are miles of good open water here.

Tom Smith
07-26-2009, 08:01 PM
My carb doesn't appear to have that slide arrangement on it, but the new Morse MV-2 shifter I just bought has a thing on it called a DWELL BLOCK where the throttle cable attaches to it. Does that dwell block do the same thing as the slider device on the carb. The dwell block has a spring in there and I was wondering what it was there for. Howard O and I are going to install this new shifter in a few days. Any advice would be appreciated. Howard probably already knows, but this stuff is all new to me. Tom

MOP
07-26-2009, 09:09 PM
My carb doesn't appear to have that slide arrangement on it, but the new Morse MV-2 shifter I just bought has a thing on it called a DWELL BLOCK where the throttle cable attaches to it. Does that dwell block do the same thing as the slider device on the carb. The dwell block has a spring in there and I was wondering what it was there for. Howard O and I are going to install this new shifter in a few days. Any advice would be appreciated. Howard probably already knows, but this stuff is all new to me. Tom

Not sure about the dwell block, but if it goes into gear real smooth that is what you are after. Guess you will know pretty soon!

Phil

Tom Smith
07-26-2009, 10:19 PM
Phil, for the life of me I can't figure out what that dwell block does, but being spring loaded I think it might just do what that part on the carb linkage does. I may call Morse tomorrow and ask them. Thanks for alerting me to this issue. Sometimes my boat slips into gear without making a sound, and other times it bangs into gear. It may be that the throttle is partially advanced when it goes into gear. Hard to tell with that worn out old shifter. I'll report back when I find out more. Tom
PS: This Donzi Registry rocks for us new guys.

MOP
07-27-2009, 07:33 AM
Thanks Poodle! So if properly adjusted it should be sweet shifting. Phil

HOWARD O
07-27-2009, 09:17 AM
Thanks for this thread, Phil. I had sent this to Tom knowing that he was sometimes having a problem with a slam into gear and knowing we were installing the new shifter, we wanted to be sure we had taken care of that as well.

Thanks Poodle! Just how do you guys walk around with all this info in your head without exploding? :eek::kingme:

A2VeeDub
07-28-2009, 09:37 AM
I just redid my transom and put an alpha on my '72 2+3. I wanted to use the stock Morse shifter to keep the original appearance in the cockpit, so I ran the 33T cables wtih the merc cable adapter kit. I messed with it for a while to get it to shift into gear without increasing revs. After examining the Morse I realized that it had a spring on the throttle cable stop that will compress before it pulls the throttle cable allowing you to shift smoothly (I am sure this isn't news to most of you). It didn't work at first because the carb didn't have enough spring tension to compress the spring in the Morse. I put a heavier spring on the carb and fabbed a lighter spring for the Morse and it is working great now. Sadly enough I am very good at removing that PITA shifter blindly with one hand alone.

New2Donzi
07-11-2010, 09:50 PM
Outstanding info!
I finally splash my old barrel back and was very disapointed with the performance. My mechanic tried to accomplish this with a mickey mouse retrofit that is not working well at all! It shifts great but interfers and does not let the secondaries open properly. This tread explains exactly what I need and offers a couple ways to go. It looks very simple - some times we try to over complicate things.
This is yet again a perfect example of why I love this sites so much.
Thanks MOP much appreciated!!
Cheers Ed

Tom Smith
07-11-2010, 10:08 PM
Howard and I launched Bluebird last week and were 99.999% sure we had foreward and reverse correct with the new Morse MVI shifter and red jacket Teleflex cables.. NOT. Darn, and we had it shifting perfectly, just bassackwards. Pulled the boat and reversed it on the shifter then re adjusted it so neutral was perfect and that spring is not compressed until the tranny is fully engaged. The throttle lever has to move foreward a bit (compressing that spring) before advancing the carb linkage. All good now, but the reverse lock mechanism is now out of wack . Had the local shop replace the bellows boot so they may have done something back there inadvertently. What next. Back it comes to my driveway and I will have a go at it tomorrow. If I can't figure it out, back it goes to the shop. There is a Volvo outdrive mechanic there that really knows his stuff, thank God. Once that is fixed, we are off and running. Speaking of running, my Holman and Moodly 289 runs like a top. What a sweet engine for that boat, just ask Howard. . Tom

New2Donzi
07-11-2010, 10:20 PM
Tom, Congrats on the lunching!
I know the felling I just splashed my 18 after a lenghthy resto and am now dealing with a bunch of small issue. One being the locking mecanism.
The lower unit locks so I need to put it on the trailler to figure out how that system works. I'm under the impression it is supposed to lock only in reverse??
I'm concern as the water is very low this year and I'm not keen on running it with the foot locked.
Good luck....Ed

Tom Smith
07-11-2010, 10:27 PM
The Neuse River here in New Bern NC is shallow to start with. I am fearful of hitting a submerged object and tearing the transome out of the boat. That lock mechanism is complicated, to say the least. I cable tied mine in the unlocked position last year in the event of an underwater strike of some kind, but can't back the boat up now without the outdrive lifting completely out of the water and being almost useless.

Bobby D
08-06-2012, 02:16 PM
Where can I get one of these carburetor lever return springs or the spring loaded trunnion? I need the ability to have the cable slide some to allow the drive to engage smooth. I have the rear entry cable that pulls.

MOP
08-10-2012, 06:56 AM
Check post #13 in this thread it will help, the whole thing is pretty simple. Most cases just drilling out tthe theards in the 33C attaching piece does the deal.

Anyone needing a talk through PM me your number with a good time to call, I have a ton of time on my hands right now being laid up.

Bobby D
08-11-2012, 07:38 PM
Phil,
My set up is different so I made my own cable end. Your explanation helped me figure out what I needed to do and how to set it up, works real good.
Thanks,
Bobby

MOP
08-11-2012, 07:57 PM
Very nice great job!!!!!! The constant shocking from not having a link shortens the drive/gear life.

Just Say N20
08-16-2012, 01:14 PM
My set up is different so I made my own cable end. Your explanation helped me figure out what I needed to do and how to set it up, works real good.
Thanks,
Bobby

Bobby, that is awesome. I'm about to hook up the throttle on my new engine, and it had a ball connector attached to the carb where you have the bolt. The engine I sold had the Volvo set up on it with the slider thing, so I never even knew "smooth shifting" was an issue.

I always thought that the design of the throttle/shift mechanism took care of this issue. You slide the handle forward, which engages the gears into either forward or reverse without the throttle cable being moved at all. Then as you continue to move the lever forward, it hits the point where the throttle begins to advance.

I will have to play with it tonight. Oops, maybe not as the outdrive is off the boat. I guess I could watch the shift cable and mark when it is extended all the way, and see what is going on with the throttle at that point.

If there is an issue, I will copy your excellent design and make one for my linkage.

Just Say N20
08-16-2012, 01:19 PM
Very clean/tight engine installation by the way. When I look at the work people do to their boats as documented on this site by most of the enthusiasts, it is apparent we all suffer from the same ailment. :cool:

mattyboy
08-16-2012, 04:08 PM
none of the older original volvo setup with the Morse controls I have seen don't have any slide or spring. the morse shifter setup correctly has 3 notches \ l / R N F respectively that the shifter falls into. If the linkage on the drive and the cable is adjusted properly the shifter hits the notches places the drive in gear before the throttle cable moves. so you are at idle speeds when placing it in gear the gas is only applied if you pass the notches. not sure the newer shifters do this

Just Say N20
08-16-2012, 04:37 PM
I have a new (well, 2 years old now) Teleflex SL3 Side Mount with trim (selected so I could have trim and this unit will mount on either port or starboard side). I will let you know after I have had a chance to check out how it performs tonight.

Bobby D
08-23-2012, 04:53 AM
Bill,
Just saw this; the cable end slot my measurement is ½ inch of travel centerline to centerline. I have the SX drive and I believe an MV-2 shifter. It works like Matt described however with the shift cable bracket carburetor setup I was unable to get smooth shifting in both forward and reverse. Its dead nuts on now and works great and I like how it looks as well. If I can help you in anyway shoot me a PM.
Bobby