Bravo Is Stuck In Forward :(

[Carl C]

I had a good run on Lake St. Clair today. The water was awesome and I probably ran about 80 miles. I am liking the 525 a lot. Toward the end of the day though we were idling through a channel and I put the shifter in neutral and the boat kept moving. If I play with it a lot I can get it to go into neutral but it is hard. At one time I thought I got it in reverse but pulling the throttle back accelerated the boat forward. Now it is hopelessly stuck in drive but throttle works and boat runs great, just can't get it out of gear. had to shut down and paddle to the dock. All external linkage looks fine. Any ideas what I should check first or how far I will need to tear the drive down?

[VetteLT193]

you checked that it looks fine, and works fine with the engine off? Meaning, the cables are moving the right direction back by the transom?

[VetteLT193]

according to this, never shift a bravo while not running. Never heard of that, but the rest of the instructions will help if everything up to the transom is OK:

http://www.sterndrives.com/replace_bravo_shiftcable.html

[Tom A.]

Sounds like the cone clutch stuck. Happened to me last year. I was able to pull the shifter back enough to override the safety and start it in gear. You will prob, have to pull the drive and replace the clutch.

[mrfixxall]

Congradulations Carl you just blew your first drive:yes: the cone clutch is welded together..running a bravo hard will do that..

[Carl C]

We shifted it with very little pressure on the lever while I leaned off the back and turned the prop...or tried to turn the prop. It stayed in drive with shifter in drive or neutral. Seems like a problem with shift mechanism inside the drive. Boat starts in gear and runs great but no neutral or reverse.:confused:

[Carl C]

eek, is the cone clutch in the upper?

[VetteLT193]

We shifted it with very little pressure on the lever while I leaned off the back and turned the prop...or tried to turn the prop. It stayed in drive with shifter in drive or neutral. Seems like a problem with shift mechanism inside the drive. Boat starts in gear and runs great but no neutral or reverse.:confused:

yeah, sounds nuked.

[fogducker III]

Carl, read your Merc manual.........adjust the shift cables at the linkage plate.........from what I read, you are not fully engaged, a couple of thread twists and you are good.........:wink:

[Carl C]

I played with it for a bit just before we headed to the dock and it went into neutral but the shifter moved hard. Had reverse too. After that I couldn't get it out of drive again. How far do i need to tear it down? I will do it in the morning.

[VetteLT193]

eek, is the cone clutch in the upper?

upper... that's one of the big strength benefits of the Bravo vs. Alpha. Alpha has the clutch in the lower.

[mrfixxall]

eek, is the cone clutch in the upper?


Yes its in the upper!

the el cone clutch,shift fork goes between the 2 halfs in the pic ( between the brass thingys).

[VetteLT193]

if you got it out of gear, check the hell out of the cables.

[Carl C]

Carl, read your Merc manual.........adjust the shift cables at the linkage plate.........from what I read, you are not fully engaged, a couple of thread twists and you are good.........:wink:

I will play with linkage adjustment while running on the hose. Thanks. Maybe I will get lucky. Somehow I don't think the drive is blown. Maybe I should change the oil and look for bad stuff too?

[mrfixxall]

the shift cable could have broke to! and it may be stuck in the forward position..pull the top cover and have somone shift it for you to see if everything is moving..

[SilverBack]

It sounds like you are describing exactly what happened to mine right after I put the high HP engine in and it would not come out of forward then it would do it but it was hard and it would slam into gear and then it would not come out of forward again. I have an XR type IMCO drive but I had eaten a gear set and the cups on the gears. Blown upper and a **** load of metal down in your lower. I had to take everything apart and new gear sets and cups and the whole works.:frown: You have got to pay to play!! I know...it sucks!!:yes:

[SilverBack]

Carl..do you see how easy that drive gave in to the higher HP? Your steering could do the same thing......Things could be worse!!

[farmer tx]

Same thing happened to me at aoth8. There was a very small set screw on the shift cable that was loose. Make sure the drive is in neutral, put the shifter in neutral, tighten the set screw, (there may be two of them 180* apart I can't remember). You have to look real close to see it slip. I was trying to dock by boat stern first, made two or three shifts, went to reverse again and the boat went forward. Tried forward and it went forward. I'm glad I was backing in or I would have made a real spectacle. I can see docking bow first and hitting reverse and the boat slaming into the dock with people everywhere.

[rtgogo]

I had the same problem last year. My bravo did exactly what you described. Ended up being the bracket where the shifter cable hooks into the drive. Dropped the lower unit to replace..Not that big of a deal...I'd start there.... Hope yours is the same...Good luck!

[mattyboy]

MIGHTY MOUSE SAYS


" nuetral and reverse are over rated"




we don't need no stinkin shifter


what do you think they made the "donzi racing team paddles" for

[Ranman]

I'm wondering if the shift cable end is properly seated in the "capture device" and functioning correctly. Also, it seems like I've heard of an issue with Bravo drives where a shift linkage in the drive can bind up or become stiff. The fix was to remove the plate on the Bravo, inspect and lube shift the linkage.

[Carl C]

There is metal in the oil :(. Especially at the top vent hole. Does someone make a stronger upper that will bolt onto my boat and work with the Imco shorty? If I fix this upper will this keep happening? My prop gets airborn quite a bit with the shorty.

[SilverBack]

There is metal in the oil :(. Especially at the top vent hole. Does someone make a stronger upper that will bolt onto my boat and work with the Imco shorty? If I fix this upper will this keep happening? My prop gets airborn quite a bit with the shorty.


IMCO makes the SC upper and Mercury makes the XR. I think you are running a standard Bravo right now...right??

[MOP]

Carl up on OSO there is a fellow that has been heat treating the upper gear sets with very good luck, they are reported to hold big power on bigger boats.

Phil

[mattyboy]

alot of metal ???? and what size


the bravo is basically a copy of the volvo and if the shift cable linkage is out of adjustment or binding it can be brutal either not shifting at all or banging into gear. I would check everything

[The Hedgehog]

There is metal in the oil :(. Especially at the top vent hole. Does someone make a stronger upper that will bolt onto my boat and work with the Imco shorty? If I fix this upper will this keep happening? My prop gets airborn quite a bit with the shorty.

You can use an XR upper or IMCO with that Shorty like Silverback was saying. Tex does that.

If you torched the upper then the gears will have have to come out of the lower too.

[Carl C]

This is not good! The upper is shot. Hard to get it in the pic but there is major damage. Most of the metal seems confined to the upper area, only a small amount of very fine metal came out of the lower when I drained it. What if I flush the lower real good with mineral spirits? Will an Imco upper bolt to my stock Bravo transom assy.? I need to order something ASAP.

[undertaker]

Carl, I would go with the XR upper, Roadtrip has the same set up and to my knowledge he has had no issues.....and looking at his other thread he runs the crap out of his 22 classic:wink::wink::wink:

[mattyboy]

Carl,

I don't know alot about the bravo but if they copied the volvo well there should be a waste basket like screen that catches any pieces that fall out of the upper and stops them from tearing up the lower.

when i grenaded my volvo all the missing teeth from the gears were found in the" catch basin"

good luck

[Carl C]

There is a Bravo XR upper on OSO for $3,300. Should I go for it? Will it be a bolt on? Can I get away with just flushing the lower?

[mrfixxall]

This is not good! The upper is shot. Hard to get it in the pic but there is major damage. Most of the metal seems confined to the upper area, only a small amount of very fine metal came out of the lower when I drained it. What if I flush the lower real good with mineral spirits? Will an Imco upper bolt to my stock Bravo transom assy.? I need to order something ASAP.



call IMCO :yes:..been putting 700hp x 2through a pair of them for 4 yrs with no issues..

[Last Real Texan]

The lower absolutely has to be gone through... Do not take a shortcut here...you will pay more in the long run... Get a new xr upper or imco unit , make sure you get someone to check the tolerances before installing. Sucks but welcome to the HP world, and I guess there goes the steering...hate it for ya, my drive is a ticking time bomb but I am ok with that...


Tex

[Carl C]

call IMCO :yes:..been putting 700hp x 2through a pair of them for 4 yrs with no issues..

Who sells the Imco uppers? The Bravo uppers on OSO are brand new XRs for $3,300. I don't know what to do. I need to get something ordered.....:nilly:

[Carl C]

The lower absolutely has to be gone through... Do not take a shortcut here...you will pay more in the long run... Get a new xr upper or imco unit , make sure you get someone to check the tolerances before installing. Sucks but welcome to the HP world, and I guess there goes the steering...hate it for ya, my drive is a ticking time bomb but I am ok with that...


Tex

Is the lower something I should try myself? I have rebuilt big merc outboard lowers. Basically I'll just be claning up everything and checking the bearings right? Is $3,300 a good price for a new XR upper? I don't have a lot of time here.

Sorry, steering is still planned for the off season.

[The Hedgehog]

Is the lower something I should try myself? I have rebuilt big merc outboard lowers. Basically I'll just be claning up everything and checking the bearings right? Is $3,300 a good price for a new XR upper? I don't have a lot of time here.

Sorry, steering is still planned for the off season.

$3,300 is a good price for an XR upper. I am not one to advise you on whether you should do the lower yourself but I am glad that you are going through it. That's a must otherwise there is a good chance you will toast that new $3,300 upper.

[SilverBack]

Carl..this is my opinion....but...the lower has to be gone through....An IMCO upper is better hands down than an XR...It is a lot beefier. IF you saw them side by side you would not have any doubt. The IMCO has built in cooling in the upper. The IMCO will bolt right on to your setup with no problems. It is a direct replacement.

I have all kinds of IMCO stuff on my boat from steering to drive to manifolds ...valve covers....extension box and a bunch more stuff. Everything has been of very very good quality.

You need to call IMCO Marine in California and talk to Rick. He can sale you everything you need and tell you how to do anything you are not sure about.


http://www.imcomarine.com/


http://imcomarine.com/ca_store/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=5_102

[Carl C]

$3,300 is a good price for an XR upper.

Does everyone agree on this? I can order it today. Is the XR quite a bit stronger than the X?

[roadtrip se]

Works very well Carl.

In regards to the shorty, it needs to be gone through by a professional. Do not run mineral oil through it. The only thing that should be run through it is drive lube, nothing else. If you don't have somebody go through it, you are gambling with something out of tolerance causing all hell to break lose in your new upper all over again.

As for the XR, I have had good luck with them for a lot of years. I did manage to have to replace an upper last year, but that was after I hit something and cracked the gears. Look for the newer, slope back stuff, since you don't have to retro-fit a steering system, as it is an incremental improvement over the old square style, like I have.

Big IMCO upper stuff is over-kill for this application, in my opinion. The XR is officially rated to something like 550HP, which is a conservative rating at best. I know several guys running juiced 575's with original XRs, no problem.

Chris at Sterndrive Specialists is my guy. Very fair, good prices, and honest. He can get you back on the water and has taken care of several folks here, that I have referred to him. 315.623.7642. He handles IMCO and Merc stuff, so he speaks both languages. He can get you hooked up quickly.

EDIT: I vouch for Rick at IMCO too, like SB said. He has been great to wrok with questions and other service issues. I just didn't find the IMCO guys to be as willing to deal on their stuff.

[Carl C]

Keith the Imco SC upper is $7,293 vs. $3,300 for the XR. I did talk to Rick, told him you sent me.

[Carl C]

OK, I just got off the phone with my mechanic, Brian. He will go through the lower for a reasonable price and can get it done quickly. I will order the XR upper for $3,300. If no one has a reason why this is not a good plan I will order the upper in one hour. Again, you guys rock and the info and help and comeraderie here is priceless.

Todd, thanks.

[The Hedgehog]

Carl,

I think that SE here has spelled it out pretty well.

In regards to the IMCO Upper vs the Merc XR. SE is on the money there too. If I found a heck of a deal on an IMCO, I would take it because it looks beefy and cool. From a practical purpose, I am staying with my XR upper when I go through mine this winter. I will be doing the max gears and some other goodies because it is primarily the gears that toast in an upper. There is nothing wrong with the XR upper at all.

Remember the guy that John that sold you the 525? He uses XR uppers with max gears and a billet top cap on that big heavy 38 with the 1,000's. Not that you need all that, but it is a testament to the XR upper.

[Carl C]

Carl,

I think that SE here has spelled it out pretty well.

In regards to the IMCO Upper vs the Merc XR. SE is on the money there too. If I found a heck of a deal on an IMCO, I would take it because it looks beefy and cool. From a practical purpose, I am staying with my XR upper when I go through mine this winter. I will be doing the max gears and some other goodies because it is primarily the gears that toast in an upper. There is nothing wrong with the XR upper at all.

Remember the guy that John that sold you the 525? He uses XR uppers with max gears and a billet top cap on that big heavy 38 with the 1,000's. Not that you need all that, but it is a testament to the XR upper.

Good enough. The drive is ordered. He ships them by special trucking or something. I should have it by wednesday. Brian should have my lower done by then too. Could be back boating thursday. Thanks again.

[Last Real Texan]

Carl,

I think that SE here has spelled it out pretty well.

In regards to the IMCO Upper vs the Merc XR. SE is on the money there too. If I found a heck of a deal on an IMCO, I would take it because it looks beefy and cool. From a practical purpose, I am staying with my XR upper when I go through mine this winter. I will be doing the max gears and some other goodies because it is primarily the gears that toast in an upper. There is nothing wrong with the XR upper at all.

Remember the guy that John that sold you the 525? He uses XR uppers with max gears and a billet top cap on that big heavy 38 with the 1,000's. Not that you need all that, but it is a testament to the XR upper.
Hey ! Quit picking on my Max Machine Imco hybrit chit !


Tex

[SilverBack]

Works very well Carl.

In regards to the shorty, it needs to be gone through by a professional. Do not run mineral oil through it. The only thing that should be run through it is drive lube, nothing else. If you don't have somebody go through it, you are gambling with something out of tolerance causing all hell to break lose in your new upper all over again.

As for the XR, I have had good luck with them for a lot of years. I did manage to have to replace an upper last year, but that was after I hit something and cracked the gears. Look for the newer, slope back stuff, since you don't have to retro-fit a steering system, as it is an incremental improvement over the old square style, like I have.

Big IMCO upper stuff is over-kill for this application, in my opinion. The XR is officially rated to something like 550HP, which is a conservative rating at best. I know several guys running juiced 575's with original XRs, no problem.

Chris at Sterndrive Specialists is my guy. Very fair, good prices, and honest. He can get you back on the water and has taken care of several folks here, that I have referred to him. 315.623.7642. He handles IMCO and Merc stuff, so he speaks both languages. He can get you hooked up quickly.

EDIT: I vouch for Rick at IMCO too, like SB said. He has been great to wrok with questions and other service issues. I just didn't find the IMCO guys to be as willing to deal on their stuff.

Todd..you are right...That gets me too....they do not like to make a deal at IMCO and for Carl I am sure the XR will be fine. I just thought that he wanted to know which one is best. I am sure that if Hedge can run 850 horses though one with a heavier boat that Carl will be ok with the XR. I agree with the swept back comment too....IT is going to be hard to beat $3,300 on an XR though.


Carl...The XR gets it's gear ratio in the lower and the standard and X and XZ get thiers in the lower so make sure about your gear ratio before you go and buy a drive. I think if you go to an XR upper you are going to have to change gears in the lower.

[SilverBack]

Carl,

I think that SE here has spelled it out pretty well.

In regards to the IMCO Upper vs the Merc XR. SE is on the money there too. If I found a heck of a deal on an IMCO, I would take it because it looks beefy and cool. From a practical purpose, I am staying with my XR upper when I go through mine this winter. I will be doing the max gears and some other goodies because it is primarily the gears that toast in an upper. There is nothing wrong with the XR upper at all.

Remember the guy that John that sold you the 525? He uses XR uppers with max gears and a billet top cap on that big heavy 38 with the 1,000's. Not that you need all that, but it is a testament to the XR upper.


Hedge and everyone else that runs the XR upper..I am not talking bad about the XR. I am jsut saying that the IMCO has a steel tower and some other things to keep in cooler and stiffer so the mesh of the gears stays in tolorance when they are really stressed.

[Last Real Texan]

Silverback what drive from imco are you running now? Is it the newer split 2 piece case or the original bravo case imco put together?
Tex

[SilverBack]

Silverback what drive from imco are you running now? Is it the newer split 2 piece case or the original bravo case imco put together?
Tex

I wish that it was the two piece!! My next drive is going to be a SCX IMCO but the one that I have has the screw in steel tower Mercury housing with different gears and different fasteners.

[The Hedgehog]

Hedge and everyone else that runs the XR upper..I am not talking bad about the XR. I am jsut saying that the IMCO has a steel tower and some other things to keep in cooler and stiffer so the mesh of the gears stays in tolorance when they are really stressed.

No doubt. Like I said, I would own one for the right price.

My XR looks like an alpha sitting next to Tex's Imco! It makes me feel very inadequate.

[The Hedgehog]

Hey ! Quit picking on my Max Machine Imco hybrit chit !
Tex

Hey, I have been dealing with this drive envy thing for a while. Something tells me it will only get worse:shocking:

[Carl C]

Carl...The XR gets it's gear ratio in the lower and the standard and X and XZ get thiers in the lower so make sure about your gear ratio before you go and buy a drive. I think if you go to an XR upper you are going to have to change gears in the lower.

His ad said he had them in 1:5 and 1:3something and I ordered the 1:5. Will this work? Can you clarify your post? Are you saying that the X has gear reduction in the upper and the XR is 1:1???? Acckkk! I thought I was done with this.

[Last Real Texan]

I wish that it was the two piece!! My next drive is going to be a SCX IMCO but the one that I have has the screw in steel tower Mercury housing with different gears and different fasteners.
Like I said even my hybrid split case Imco with max chit is still a ticking time bomb....and the fuse is getting shorter ...oh well , want to play have to pay...
Tex

[SilverBack]

His ad said he had them in 1:5 and 1:3something and I ordered the 1:5. Will this work? Can you clarify your post? Are you saying that the X has gear reduction in the upper and the XR is 1:1???? Acckkk! I thought I was done with this.

Carl....to my knowledge the XR only has one gear set for the upper. It takes different gears in the lower to change the ratio. If you are not changing the lower gears I do not know how that is going to work out for you. The XR gears are straight cut gears. All others X..XZ ...Standard are helical cut gears. This in itself does not matter but the XZ gears and the XR gears did not play well together when I had XR lower and XZ upper at one time. It was mainly because the tech screwed up calculating the gear ratio. I don't think that there is any way that you can tell someone that you are selling them a 1.50 gear ratio if you don't know what gears that they have in the lower. Call Rick back and ask him or if you know what gear set and what kind of gears you have in your lower. Post exactly what you have here ..that would help. Ask the people what tooth gears the $3,300 drive has. If it is an XR it should be 16-19. I think that you may be headed for a huge headache.

[SilverBack]

Carl...I just talked to Rick and you may be ok after all. He said that if you had a 1.50 gear ratio before you will have a 1.50 gear ratio with the XR. The only gear set for an XR upper is 16-19.

[Pismo]

Keep your old upper, rebuild it at convenience off season, lower price and you'll have a spare or sell it.

[Carl C]

Keep your old upper, rebuild it at convenience off season, lower price and you'll have a spare or sell it.

I'm definately not throwing it away. Might sell it as is for parts. I called the seller of the Bravo XR and he verified that they are all one ratio. He also said I need to have "red dot" bearings in my transom assembly or something like that. He said I should be OK if the boat is newer than 2000.:crossfing:

[SilverBack]

Do you have a link to the place where you are buying the drive? I think that you are going to be ok if you run a 1.50 gear ratio.

[Pismo]

Isn't the XR input shaft larger diameter so you need a different gimbal bearing?

[Carl C]

Do you have a link to the place where you are buying the drive? I think that you are going to be ok if you run a 1.50 gear ratio.http://www.offshoreonly.com/classifieds/new_bravo_1_xr_upper_only-o15902-en.html




Isn't the XR input shaft larger diameter so you need a different gimbal bearing?

How hard is it to change the gimbal bearing?

[mrfixxall]

http://www.offshoreonly.com/classifieds/new_bravo_1_xr_upper_only-o15902-en.html





How hard is it to change the gimbal bearing?


With the rite tools its easy,the guy doin your lower should be able to !

[Carl C]

With the rite tools its easy,the guy doin your lower should be able to !

I was just planning to take the lower to Brian, not the whole boat. He's 50 miles away. Can the bearing be changed without further disassembly with the drive off. I'm new to sterndrives (can you tell).

[MOP]

Carl to much to read all the input! IMO from having done this stuff for many years gather up what you need then take it the best shop! Bite the bullet, you need some special tools to get it right the shimming and pre-load must be spot on!

Phil

[Carl C]

Carl to much to read all the input! IMO from having done this stuff for many years gather up what you need then take it the best shop! Bite the bullet, you need some special tools to get it right the shimming and pre-load must be spot on!

Phil

I am getting the lower rebuilt by a mechanic and the upper will be brand new. I'll just be bolting parts back on and pumping in the oil. Now the only question mark is the gimbal bearing.

[MOP]

Need it or not change it out, Hmmm I think the XR requires the larger hole bearing!!!

[gcarter]

All you need is a three finger slide hammer puller to get it out. something you probably have.......
I've installed several with just a good size ball peen hammer and a pin to drive it.

[Carl C]

All you need is a three finger slide hammer puller to get it out. something you probably have.......
I've installed several with just a good size ball peen hammer and a pin to drive it.

Cool, yes, I have lots of pullers, thanks. I will wait til the drive gets here and see what I have/need.

[mrfixxall]

Cool, yes, I have lots of pullers, thanks. I will wait til the drive gets here and see what I have/need.


just make sure you line up the dot on the bearing with the greece zurt hole:)

[Last Real Texan]

just make sure you line up the dot on the bearing with the greece zurt hole:)
Red dot 10 o'clock

[mrfixxall]

Here ya go carl:)

http://www.mercstuff.com/gimbalbearing2.htm

[Carl C]

Here ya go carl:)

http://www.mercstuff.com/gimbalbearing2.htm Thanks, I might have missed that hole line up thing. I do have a two prong slide hammer bearing puller.

[Phil S]

....Ragazza's have a swivel seat, so I just spin around when the ol' cobra decides not to give me a gear....:)

Jus' kiddin' guys...and Carl...

Some serious drive talk going on here, and I DO hope it is still something minor Carl C...but I wouldn't know.

Been following your threads.....and pullin' for you to have a nice, safe boating season. You sure are working hard for it, and I wish you the best.

Phil s

[Pismo]

You can do the whole thing yourself in a few hours no problem.

[Carl C]

....Ragazza's have a swivel seat, so I just spin around when the ol' cobra decides not to give me a gear....:)

Jus' kiddin' guys...and Carl...

Some serious drive talk going on here, and I DO hope it is still something minor Carl C...but I wouldn't know.

Been following your threads.....and pullin' for you to have a nice, safe boating season. You sure are working hard for it, and I wish you the best.

Phil s

I appreciate the kind words but the problem was not minor. At least I will have a stronger drive when I'm done and the boat won't be down long:crossfing:.

[MDonziM]

Carl,

Sorry to hear about your drive. How many hrs did you have w/ the 525 before it went? One thing to think about while you have the drive off is your coupler. I dont know what came on the 525, but you need a heavy duty one.

Good luck - Marshall

[Carl C]

Carl,

Sorry to hear about your drive. How many hrs did you have w/ the 525 before it went? One thing to think about while you have the drive off is your coupler. I dont know what came on the 525, but you need a heavy duty one.

Good luck - Marshall

The engine came complete with a coupler. It's an '07 engine with 30 hours when I got it(I have the computer print-out). I have about 7 hours on it. We were running pretty hard on Lake St. Clair. The 1-2 footers were perfect. Hit full throttle a few times but never aired it out to max speed, I had passengers on board and had to put safety first.

[Donziweasel]

Hope you don't need the HD coupler. I just bought one off Poodle and it ain't cheap.

Good luck Carl, I know it sucks to be down in July after all your hard work. Hopefully you will be back up and running this week.:crossfing:

[Carl C]

Pretty sure it has the HD coupler. It has a longer snout and I need to use the ITS alignment tool.

[Pismo]

Pretty sure it has the HD coupler. It has a longer snout and I need to use the ITS alignment tool.

That means pulling the engine again and that will add much work. Use what you have....

[Brian41]

Carl lower is done all the bearings and race's were fine come and get it.

[Carl C]

Carl lower is done all the bearings and race's were fine come and get it.

YIPPEE! You da man. I have delivery confirmation on my XR tomorrow btween noon and 4 pm. I will be there in the morning. I will be boating thursday.:):) BTW, I have the red dot gimbal brg.

[mrfixxall]

YIPPEE! You da man. I have delivery confirmation on my XR tomorrow btween noon and 4 pm. I will be there in the morning. I will be boating thursday.:):) BTW, I have the red dot gimbal brg.


ok carl,give it a little brake in first before you stick it and please remember you dont have hydrolic steering:)

O BTW yo move so quickly!

http://forums.boatfreaks.org/showthread.php?t=13154

[MOP]

Give the new gears a few hours without hard acceleration!

[Carl C]

Will do the break-in thing. I'm only hitting the small lake anyway.