Windshield support bracket...?

[fogducker III]

Does anybody have any ideas on what to use for a center "support" bracket for the metal framed windshield on an 18C...?

My windshield took a little beating on the Poker Run on Saturday. A couple of times it was used as a support for people getting in and out of the boat and it is "sagging" a little in the middle. Ideally I would like to find a stainless adjustable "rod" type support that can be fastened to the top of the window frame in the middle and then I can fasten the bottom at an angle to the top of the dash............if that makes sense...?

[VetteLT193]

http://www.go2marine.com/product.do?no=150656F

if they don't work, can't you just fab something up? I polished stainless tube mounted from the top of it straight down to the dash would work fine. you could use a stainless flag mount on the bottom to stick it into. the top though, that's more tricky.

[fogducker III]

http://www.go2marine.com/product.do?no=150656F

if they don't work, can't you just fab something up? I polished stainless tube mounted from the top of it straight down to the dash would work fine. you could use a stainless flag mount on the bottom to stick it into. the top though, that's more tricky.

Thanks for the link, those are what I was looking at but the smallest they make is 11" and they are a little light construction for what I need...:garfield:

The "flag pole" base is an interesting idea though...........:yes:

I thought some of you might have had the same problem at the center of the 18 and 22C metal windshields.......:confused:

[zelatore]

I haven't seen anything pre-fab that would look right, but it shouldn't cost too much to have a metal fabricator make up something in stainless. Basically just a piece of solid rod, say 3/8", with a couple flat tabs welded to either end. Countersink a couple holes in the tabs, polish the welds, and install. Materials would be cheap - probably $25. Labor might be 2-3 hours to measure, cut, weld, and polish. I'd bet you could get the whole thing made for $200-$250. If I had the measurements, I could have my stainless guy knock one out pretty easy. But getting the angles right without having the boat here would be tough.

And I know you're not going to bring the boat down to California any time soon. :wink:

[fogducker III]

I haven't seen anything pre-fab that would look right, but it shouldn't cost too much to have a metal fabricator make up something in stainless. Basically just a piece of solid rod, say 3/8", with a couple flat tabs welded to either end. Countersink a couple holes in the tabs, polish the welds, and install. Materials would be cheap - probably $25. Labor might be 2-3 hours to measure, cut, weld, and polish. I'd bet you could get the whole thing made for $200-$250. If I had the measurements, I could have my stainless guy knock one out pretty easy. But getting the angles right without having the boat here would be tough.

And I know you're not going to bring the boat down to California any time soon. :wink:


"northern" California is not that far.........:wink:

I actually run a metal shop but we are not really set up for stainless welding etc........I could make it myself at home but thought there might be something ready made out there that would work...:confused:

I agree with you that just a piece of stainless rod with a couple of plates fastened top and bottom would work.......:yes:

[BUIZILLA]

mast stay turnbuckle and base..

[fogducker III]

mast stay turnbuckle and base..

Not just another pretty face are you.....:wink:

I went down to the sailing shop and second hand marine shop just after posting this, most of the turnbuckle set-ups are too big and the ones that would fit have the mounting plates orientated the wrong way.........

I think I have found the solution, pics shortly................:yes:

[fogducker III]

OK, so down at the local second hand marine parts place I found a forward hatch adjustable hatch "ram", bought it although it was WAY too big and complicated for what I needed. Got it home, took it apart, cut the inside shaft out, shortened it and using the one orignal end, tomorrow I will weld the other larger end on the cut 45* end and Bobs your Uncle......... It will obviously be mounted straighter then the picture...:lookaroun:

and a little higher on the dash end...........It is well made stainless and the best part..........$4.75 at the shop.......:yes:

[MOP]

Try your darnedest not to drill to deep, try to stop just as the tip goes through. If you hit the Plexi glass good chance it will crack, maybe not right away. You should be able to tap the holes with a bottoming tap, and use screws just long enough to barely touch the rubber and not put pressure on the Plexi. If you set them with LocTite you should be just fine. Phil

[fogducker III]

Try your darnedest not to drill to deep, try to stop just as the tip goes through. If you hit the Plexi glass good chance it will crack, maybe not right away. You should be able to tap the holes with a bottoming tap, and use screws just long enough to barely touch the rubber and not put pressure on the Plexi. If you set them with LocTite you should be just fine. Phil


Thanks Phil, the plexi is a concern, I thought at first about going straight threw with nuts and bolts, bad idea, so I agree with you, shallow and sealant, at least there is little weight and stress and any weight/stress there is will be in the right direction for some shallow screws...:yes: