Removing stuck outdrive?

[handfulz28]

Tired helping my buddy remove his Volvo DP drive last night. Did everything by the book but it's still stuck hard. Looking for any tips and tricks, and maybe an idea of just how hard (and from where) we can pull it.

[Morgan's Cloud]

Is this the 'newer model' ?

If you're posotive that every nut is off and shift cable is disconnected I'd be a bit concerned that it may have come way out of alignment since the drive last went on .

[handfulz28]

Boat is a 2004 I believe. Drive has never been off. So drives never get stuck on because of corrosion?

Seeing as how this drive is being removed as part of an engine removal, maybe we should see what happens when we loosen up the engine.

[Morgan's Cloud]

If the trim works and has been used regularly that ought to keep the drive splines from locking onto the coupler.

I'm just wondering if it's a similar layout to mine ..(2008 model year)
They have a wierd system where there is only an 'o ring' to seal the unit where it fits onto the gimbal .. no gaskets like on the Merc units. Those two surfaces can't corrode together ... but if salt got into the collar area of the u/joint and sat there a while .... hmmm

One thing for sure ... The new units may exhibit sound engineering but they sure don't have the finish/metallurgy of the old 200/250/270/280's

[handfulz28]

Nothing in the manual about a gasket, or an o-ring for that matter. Yeah, the collar area seems to be what's impossible to get...until it comes off.

[Morgan's Cloud]

Never underestimate the effect of a few sincerely used 'choice words' as well :kingme:

[f_inscreenname]

If you saw what it took to get the last drive, bellhousing and transom shield I bought from FL apart you would burn the boat and collect the insurance. And that's with the assembly off the boat. If you have something small like lawn tractor or something you can hook a rope to to give it more of a tug you will be better off.

[Morgan's Cloud]

............ Something else occurred to me ... There is also a chance that when the outdrive was installed , some dimwit failed to completely grease the driveshaft which over the years has slowly rusted itself to the gimbal bearing. (very snug fit when everything is clean and new..)

[handfulz28]

A bunch of screwdrivers wedged in the sides, a strategically placed bottle jack (horizontally against the transom and a bolt in the oil dipstick) and those choice words got it loose. Ended up leaving it on since there wasn't any place to put it just yet. I'll be taking a look tonight and taking pictures if there's anything worthy...

Thanks for the ideas and support... :D

[MOP]

Disconnect the rams at the drive then take a 2X2 a couple of feet long lift the drive full up put the 2X2 down low about where the rams mount and Drop it with a bit of force, it may take a few drops but being a salt rat it has worked and will keep you from gouging the drive with wedges. If that does not do it you can try dropping the front mounts down about 1/2" then start the engine and let it idle for a minute or so that usually will break splines loose. Oooops and old secret snuck out! If all of that fails then the engine must come if not stuck, if stuck then it is time to cut the input shaft. I in 30 years of working on this crap only cut two shafts, it is the absolute last resort!

Phil

[Ghost]

Lots of folks have offered good ideas, so I don't feel bad saying this.

Launch the boat. It'll fall out. The deeper the water, the faster it'll go.

[handfulz28]

I guess I wasn't clear....the drive is loose, just didn't take it off all the way since there was no place to put it. My buddy has a 6 car garage, but no f-ing floor space for an outdrive...:confused:

Tonight we're gonna see what it's going to take to get the engine hatch off. Yeah, don't get me started on where that's going to go.

[handfulz28]

Yard art