Will this come apart?

[Just Say N20]

Before I destroy this trying to get the rod out, I thought I would seek the advise of someone who had already successfully negotiated through this particular area. You can see the rod is very nicely rusted.

I have just about everything disconnected to pull the deck off, and the only way I could get the rear lifting ring out was to cut the rod. I'm going to have to cut it again, on the section remaining in the boat. There is no way the bolts are going to move.

What is the best way to get this out? Or, should I forget it and buy another lifting ring?

[BigGrizzly]

It is possible but it would be cheaper and less aggravating to buy a new one.

[gcarter]

The ring is brass, so it doesn't really rust together. It just seems that way.
Here's what you do;
Put some penetrating oil into the threaded joint for several days with the rod sticking up.
Stick the rod into the largest vise you can find.
Stick a jack handle or some other very stiff piece at least 2'-3' long into the ring and turn. It'll either come off (and it will, I promise) or the brass ring will break first.
But you need a vise that'll stand up to the torque you'll put on it.

[Just Say N20]

The ring is brass, so it doesn't really rust together. It just seems that way.
Here's what you do;
Put some penetrating oil into the threaded joint for several days with the rod sticking up.
Stick the rod into the largest vise you can find.
Stick a jack handle or some other very stiff piece at least 2'-3' long into the ring and turn. It'll either come off (and it will, I promise) or the brass ring will break first.
But you need a vise that'll stand up to the torque you'll put on it.

OK. Thanks. Now to find a really big, manly vise. :yes:

[zelatore]

Nothing like an excuse to buy more tools....:yes:

[Just Say N20]

So, I purchase this product from Grainger called SCREWLOOSE. I had heard good things about it, and hey, the guy gave me all the MSDS stuff with it. It has to be good right. I never got any MSDS with WD-40. This must be nuclear strength.

Kept it well soaked for 3 days. Found a really manly vise. Used my most "honkin" pipe wrench, and twisted it right off! :frown:

The picture shows it ground down ever so slightly, so I could punch the center of the rod to drill it out.

This was is from the transom and looks pretty ratty. Anybody have a better looking one they aren't using? I have only been able to find the new style (flat rather than rounded) with a few quick looks online.

[Conquistador_del_mar]

So, I purchase this product from Grainger called SCREWLOOSE. I had heard good things about it, and hey, the guy gave me all the MSDS stuff with it. It has to be good right. I never got any MSDS with WD-40. This must be nuclear strength.

Kept it well soaked for 3 days. Found a really manly vise. Used my most "honkin" pipe wrench, and twisted it right off! :frown:

The picture shows it ground down ever so slightly, so I could punch the center of the rod to drill it out.

This was is from the transom and looks pretty ratty. Anybody have a better looking one they aren't using? I have only been able to find the new style (flat rather than rounded) with a few quick looks online.

I wish I had seen your original post. George was on the right track, but I would have added some propane heat and a few sharp hammer blows to help loosen it. Both of mine in my 1971 came loose using this method with a pipe wrench and cheater tube on the shaft for leverage. I held the eye in the vise using 1/4" rubber for protection of the surface. You can drill and tap it now. Isn't it a 5/8"x13 thread? Bill

[Just Say N20]

I wish I had seen your original post. George was on the right track, but I would have added some propane heat and a few sharp hammer blows to help loosen it. Both of mine in my 1971 came loose using this method with a pipe wrench and cheater tube on the shaft for leverage. I held the eye in the vise using 1/4" rubber for protection of the surface. You can drill and tap it now. Isn't it a 5/8"x13 thread? Bill

I did everything except heat it. After each application of more SCREWLOOSE, I pounded on the rod with a hammer. I sandwiched the eye between a couple pieces of wood in the vise. The process of trying to remove the bolt did no damage to the eye itself.

I believe you are correct; 5/8" x 13.

[Tidbart]

too late now, but for future reference..... try AeroKroil for loosening parts. The best!

http://www.kanolabs.com/

B

[BUIZILLA]

I have been using Kroil for well over 30 years.... it's all the airline industry used back in the day, and it is still the best today... in fact, I used some this morning...

[gcarter]

OK,
Step two.......
You can drill the rod by putting the ring into a vise bolted to the table of a drill press....
You know the drill, start w/a 1/4" and working up. You end up chipping out the steel threads.
If it were me, I'd pursue it as these things aren't cheap or easy to come by.
Or if you find another, keep it for a rainy day.

Sorry I didn't mention some heat like the exellent advice Bill gave, but I didn't need it on mine.

[olredalert]

-------I believe those were made by Algonac Cast Products in, of course, Algonac Mi. They are in the phone book (810-794-9391) and have a huge # of old pieces. They actually made all the early air-scoops and could do them again. Problem is; the finish work and chrome (which they no longer do, thank you OSHA) seemed to me to put them out of range price wise. Talk nice to them and maybe E-mail a pic to them and you might get a new one.:wink:......Bill S

[Pismo]

Liquid wrench rust eater, super penetrant always worked good for me. Used it on an old car exhaust system and the rusted, rounded nuts came loose with my fingers. I couldn't believe it.

Looks like fixing this one is the best option. Drill, retap, even if bigger hole needed to get clean metal.

[Just Say N20]

I have been using Kroil for well over 30 years.... it's all the airline industry used back in the day, and it is still the best today... in fact, I used some this morning...

I guess I'm too impatient. I did some internet searching on Kroil, followed some of the links to different sites, mostly discussion board like this, and most of the stuff about it was very good. But, only sold online.

Many people mentioned the SCREWLOOSE product as working just as well as the Kroil, and you could buy it through Grainer's. So I went this route. It did seem to really work on the rust, but this piece was beyond anything that I have ever seen.

I will try Algonac. I had a good working relationship with them when I was at Tiara.

As always, thanks for the continued help. :yes:

[BlownCrewCab]

It's a 5/8x18 (if it's fine threads) or 5/8x11 if it's course.....5/8x13 not so common........

[Just Say N20]

It's a 5/8x18 (if it's fine threads) or 5/8x11 if it's course.....5/8x13 not so common........

It appears you might be right. 5/8 x 11 is what the "replacement" style lifting ring uses.

I spoke with Algonac. Great people. I will always praise Pam and Brenda @ Algonac, and the folks at Bennett. Both super companies to deal with. I will let you know what comes about from that phone call.

[Just Say N20]

Algonac has 48 of the original style (like shown in the first picture) in stock.

Part # 905, Chrome, 5/8-11 thread. $75 each.

[gcarter]

Algonac has 48 of the original style (like shown in the first picture) in stock.

Part # 905, Chrome, 5/8-11 thread. $75 each.

That's hard to argue with.

[Speed Racer]

It's a 5/8x18 (if it's fine threads) or 5/8x11 if it's course.....5/8x13 not so common........

Yep!! Been there done that!!!
Mine came loose with Kroil, and heat..... Threads ended up being just fine afterwards, then I just cleaned them up and had them re-chromed.

Screw extractors are amazing things....

http://www.toolprice.com/category/screwextractors/

[Sweet Cheekz]

Algonac has 48 of the original style (like shown in the first picture) in stock.

Part # 905, Chrome, 5/8-11 thread. $75 each.


Well done Bill Can you post the # I need a few :yes:

Parnell