Fastening deck to hull; Where to start...?

[Jamesbon]

Do you start from the front and work back or start from the stern and work forward?

I'm starting from scratch, all of the existing holes were glassed and filled....

I guess I'll fasten on 8" centers?? That's what the rubrail uses...

[mattyboy]

this is just me but what i would do is make sure the deck is on as far as it will go put weight in the boat and on the deck to make sure of that. then tack the deck in place with a few screws in key areas( a couple on each side of the bow a few down each side and a couple across the back) to hold it there then thru bolt where you can until you're finished

[Jamesbon]

Thanks Matty! Me likey....

[gcarter]

this is just me but what i would do is make sure the deck is on as far as it will go put weight in the boat and on the deck to make sure of that. then tack the deck in place with a few screws in key areas( a couple on each side of the bow a few down each side and a couple across the back) to hold it there then thru bolt where you can until you're finished

This is good stuff.
However, I'd go a step further and encourage you to get into your rub rail at the same time, as far as screw spacing goes.
IOW, I'd use the old rail, if you still have it, and sort of use it as a template...I know you probably won't be able to duplicate it exactly. But you will be able to use it to good advantage as to where the side pieces start and stop. Also notice the rail ends are cut so that the first screw from the end is only about 2", or so, away.
It's a big puzzle, but if you don't take the rail into account now, it's inevitable you'll have some holes on top of each other.

[ZekesterbluH3]

The rail screws should be independant of the main screws...if you wanted maximum holding and minimum screws, you'd offset the main screws to the rub rail screws, i.e. if the rub rail is 8" centres, offset the main screws 4 " then go 8" centres, effectively getting screws every 4 inches...if you really wanted it spaced, you'd hold up the rub rail, mark it, then put the big main screws in between each mark, adding where you think you need to....if you want to insure even tightening with no "bubble"...put a screw in the centre stern, one at the nose, the nose, 0one mid way up one side, and one midway on the other... then work your way around, starting at each point, like when you bolt down a head, or put on a rim, then you will ensure the best fit without running into something scary at the last 4 screws or something....

I've toyed with running a bead of sika flex around first, but it would be hell again to split later if you ever had to.

my top did have a gap in some places, I sikaflexed that, then it pulled in when I screwed it down...I didn't want the screws pulling thru...once dry it gave me a very solid bond....

Just my 2 cents, I'm no expert...

[BigGrizzly]

I like matty's idea besides that is hoe I did it on our 16.

[Madcow]

If it's not too late I would also glass a 3/4" wide srtip of core mat all the way around on the inside of the hull. This will give you a lot more meat for the screws to bite into. Just make sure you pre-drill the holes big enough. When i put my deck back on I reused all the existing deck holes as they were in goog shape. and i noticed that the spacing was not exactly cosistent. All the holes varied in distance. Some were 5 1/2", some were 6 1/2" and some were 7 1/2" appart. Just those 3 mesurements and I only had one that interfered with the rail screws that were 6" appart. Go figure.