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View Full Version : Old Volvo Reconditioning



Craig
09-25-2002, 12:28 PM
Are there any companies out there that do rebuilds or reconditioning of old Volvos (like 250's, 270's, 280's, 290's). I know Jasper Engines will redo old Mercruisers and OMC's pretty reasonable ($900.00-$1,500.00 range -- I guess that's reasonable!!). BUT they don't do Volvos. Appreciate any leads. I think the old 270 needs some help.

rong
09-25-2002, 01:49 PM
A dealer once told me of an exchange program for rebuilds. He was talking upper and lowers units. Never did research this as my 250's are going well. :) Can someone shed any light on this? cistineb

MOP
09-25-2002, 07:59 PM
http://www.sterndrives.com/volvo/vdrives01.html

Above one exchange program, must be more!

nasty habit
09-25-2002, 08:29 PM
Had my 280 done at Speedmasters in Deland Fl was pricey but worth it to me...
www.speedmasters-inc.com (http://www.speedmasters-inc.com)

AVickers
09-25-2002, 08:42 PM
Used units are so cheap (and durable...and so interchangeable) that it's almost not worth spending a whole lot to do a rebuild...

I'd slap a used 280 on it and forgetaboutit.

BigGrizzly
09-25-2002, 08:50 PM
Mny ealers do them, I did my own its like a car rear end. Try Posner Marine in Pensicola he use to do them. Whatswrong with yours- hardto get into forward

MOP
09-26-2002, 06:11 AM
Check the for sale section, great deal on a 280 with trim.

Craig
09-26-2002, 07:13 AM
Thanks for all the info. ! Grizzly, Goes into forward and reverse fine. It's just that I've noticed some increasing vibration lately. Has gotten slightly worse over the past season. Still not terrible, but I replaced the universals two summers ago. I guess a little trouble shooting may be in order. I watched the out-drive with someone else driving and it does seem to shake a little. When I took the drive off last time to do the universals I just got to thinking that after 33 yrs. an overhaul might be beneficial. I've got my trusty grease laden Clymer's shop manual but I'm not a great mechanic and don't have a lot of extra time. The vibration just got me thinking I should look into a rebuild. Any more thoughts?

rong
09-26-2002, 08:34 AM
Had a slight vibration looking at my outdrive and it turns out to be the prop. Changed it and the vibration is gone. Could be the prop hit something going along or the hub is giving up. I'd try a prop if you have one.

Craig
09-26-2002, 08:58 AM
I actually did slightly ding my prop (aluminum) recently but I had noticed the vibration prior to that. It did seem to get worse "post-ding." What you said about the hub "giving up" is interesting. Do they do that just with normal use? Like a bearing, just starts to vibrate, then wobble before dying? My next question then (assuming that could be the problem) is, can you get a new aluminum one for a 270. I know the Ultra's are getting rare, but it seems like Michigan Wheel still made one aluminum model for a 270 a few years back. As I recall it was only availabe in like a 19" pitch. Currently have a 23". I guess I could just have it rebuilt "again" to see if thats the whole problem. Sounds like the cheapest easiest 1st step in trouble shooting the problem.

AVickers
09-26-2002, 10:42 AM
As to the 30 years without an overhaul, fugataboutit! That's what Volvos do. If it ain't broke, don't fix it...

Borrow a prop and see if the vibration changes or goes away -- Volvos have rubber hubs and they do deteriorate w/ knocks, use and age. Many rebuilders can't check these hubs so even with a rebuild, you might still have problems.

If it's the prop and you can't find a used one you like, Michigan now has a new hub system with a replaceable brass insert that is splined to the prop hub and connects to the output shaft. My guess is that you can find one of these to fit a Volvo shaft and then put almost any prop Michigan has available on your boat -- aluminum or stainless.

Also, check your U-joins again.

And while you have the upper case off, check the output shaft bearing(s) in the tube between the engine and transom (Mercruiser calls this a "gimbal bearing"). You can reach in from the rear and check for side and end play by grabbing the end of the shaft and pulling and pushing it sideways and in and out. Or you can remove the shaft and rear bearing (a bitch of a job because the snap rings are tough to get at and you need a slide hammer, but doable).

These bearings are not sealed and they require and oil/grease bath. Almost no one keeps this maintenance item up.

I had a vibration on my 25 year-old boat that got worse when turning -- classic U-joint symptom. I replaced the U-joints, but still had a slight vibration. Turns out that the rear bearing was rough and the shaft was loose in the inner race. I "dimpled" the shaft and used shaft-grade locktite to install a new bearing. Doing this stopped the vibration altogether. I used sealed bearings so the oil/grease bath became a non-issue...

My guess is that it'll go another 25 years.

Craig
09-26-2002, 11:46 AM
O.k. that's a pretty good list for troubleshooting. I'm hoping it's just the prop (obviously). The shaft thing sounds cool if its available. AVickers, I think you're who directed me to check my u-joints last time (2 summers ago) and they indeed were shot. Could they be bad again in just a season or two? That's why I asked initially about a rebuild. If I have multiple things worn out, I don't really have time to "learn and do" it myself right now. I can take the drive off, if required, but I'd rather take it someone who knows better what they're doing make repairs. Thanks again (to all) for the valuable input.

AVickers
09-26-2002, 02:36 PM
My guess is that worn U-joints, if left long enough, are what hammer the rear bearing and shaft... Lots of vibration ain't good for those things.

All you have to remove to check the bearings is the upper gearbox -- same as for the U-joints. If I remember, that's something like a 30-minute job.

The bearing itself is tough to check with it installed because you can't turn it with the shaft still attached to the engine. That's why I recommend checking the runout and endplay. If you can move it side to side, up 'n' down or in and out at all, you need new bearings.

As for having a shop do the deed, that's up to you... But my best guess from this distance is that you don't need an overhaul of the drive. Vibration coming from the drive itself would be unlikely unless you ran it out of oil or really smacked something and bent a shaft.

vonkamp
09-26-2002, 04:47 PM
Check your nylon bushings on your steering helmet and yoke. if they are worn and have play, your outdrive will shake, especially during acceleration. All bushings are available from a volvo service center. If thats the problem, it's a cheap fix.

BigGrizzly
09-27-2002, 02:03 AM
On my Csican I have one prop that looks good but the boat vibrates at a cruise so I just don't use it no problem its the slowest prop anyway

Craig
09-27-2002, 06:27 AM
Thanks again guys. I'll print this stuff and put it in my shop manual. If I get into it myself, it'll give me something to do this winter. Right now am in the middle of a move (sold my house) so tools are in storage. Had to move boat out of it's dry carport home yesterday. There's been a pretty serious drought here (Maryland) all summer and the boat has been under shelter. Now the first day I had to move it out we are getting flash flood rains. Anybody having problems due to Isadore?

David O
09-27-2002, 06:48 AM
Randy
I have tried Posner Marine here in Pensacola. He had no interest. It sat on the floor of his shop for three weeks. I picked it up and took it to Bell Marine, It sat there for over a month. They did attempt to work on it but were afraid they would break some of the housing so they quit. They recommended I take it to Pauls Marine in Panama City, FL that he is the best they have ever seen in rebuilding sterndrives. So as of last week it is now over there. He looked at it and said NO PROBLEM I can press this and that out, heliarc these corroded places, drill out these stuck blots, etc. At least he was the first that sounded positive that I may one day have a sterndrive again. So much for using the boat this summer.
David