Reinstalling Mercruiser Outdrive

[ajochum]

I had to remove my outdrive for the Winter to fit it into the garage. Have spent the entire morning (two of us) attempting to reinstall. Found some instructions on a website which are difficult to understand.

We put the shifter into the forward position, and slipped the small 3/8" or so bearing into the shaft, aligned the lower brass sleeve to align with flat mated one on the outdrive and have tried our best to put the drive back on. Got it as far as the studs - maybe got them about 1/4" on and the thing will not go on. We can't even get it off now!

Can anyone give me some advice on this? Have rotated the prop counter-clockwise as we put it on as instructions stated.

[MOP]

You should be able to lift it up and take a piece of 2X2 put it down low against the gimble and drop the drop down a few times that will usually get it back off. Note the last about 1-1/2" can be tough due to the Orings on the shaft which should be well greased as also should the bore in the gimble bearing. If you have done all of that think back was the drive difficult to get off last fall? If so you may need to align the engine, that requires the aligning tool. Another thing that happens and just did to me is if by chance you managed to cock the bearing in the within the race you will also need the alignment tool, once it is cockeyed no amount of fiddling will let the drive slip in without getting it straight again!

[ajochum]

I'm so close to getting it in. Am I missing a step in getting it to go that next inch an a half? Think you're saying I may have the bearing not square. By the way, yes, it came out smooth as could be last fall.

[ajochum]

MOP - Did what you said and was able to get it out. Now attempting to align and put in all the way but it is just fighting me all the way. We have beat it with a rubber hammer and no luck.

[Trueser]

Try turning the drive shaft a bit.
Make sure the shift linkage is ligned up on the front side of the drive,
Was the drive in forward when you removed it? If not you need to shift the lower into forward! Make sure the slot lings up.

[DonziJon]

Once you get the drive on the studs, you HAVE to Lie down on your back... under the drive....looking UP and AFT. The little Dog On the drive HAS to be ready to SLIP into (engage) the slotted Stainless Steel reciever on the bottom of the gimbal. THIS is why the Shift Lever HAS to BE in Forward to Install ...OR Un-Install the drive.

Once you get the drive flanges within One inch of each other...rear back and give the drive a Good Swift Kick at the top of the drive with the heel of your shoe..to get the shaft O-Ring to slip into the gimbal bearing. Like MOP said: grease the O-Ring AND the bore of the gimbal bearing first.

In the MEANTIME..Like you got nothing else to worry about...make sure the shift cable linkage engages the little "Roller" lever......just Before you make the big Kick. BTW: This job is a PITA if you don't have a "Drive Stand"....OR:..I use an engine lift crane. John

[ajochum]

I don't know what I'm allowed and not allowed to say on this forum, but I am so damn p**s8d and frustrated at this point. My helper had to go and I have managed to take it in and out three or four times and just cannot get it to go in the final inch or so. I did exactly what you said - have been on my back and the slot is aligned with the pin - the bearing is inside the shifter and it absolutely will not go. I have pounded it with a piece of wood on the bolt holes (remembering this is a $3500 unit) and it has just reached that final inch - inch and a half and won't go beyond.

At this point do you think the spline is inside the shaft - or is it possible it has not meshed with the splines?

Allignment looks just fine when I have it out and look inside.

[MOP]

I just went through this whole thing Thursday, I helped my son in law change bellows & gimble bearing. I told him to borrow an alignment tool, like all young guys he figured with a new bearing no problems. Friday afternoon we came back to finish the job! Now he is a BIG boy with everything set right he put some major AZZ to the job, 20 minutes later he went off to a buddies shop and came back with the tool. I showed him how the tip hit the coupler, a couple of palm whacks on it and all was fine, the slid in like your best back seat date. When that bearing is off it will fight you two out of three falls!!!! It is the combination of the Orings sliding into the bearing and the splines binding from being ever so slightly cocked is what you fight! I have mounted one hell of lot of drives, there is only the right/easy way!

[ajochum]

Went online and found two versions - one is the slim alignment tool - the other has what appears to be bearings attached. One is $39 the other is $97. Recommendations?

[MOP]

Went online and found two versions - one is the slim alignment tool - the other has what appears to be bearings attached. One is $39 the other is $97. Recommendations?

Being as you will be using it for private use find one of the aluminum ones, look for Alphas, Bravo and OMC they all fit the same. In fact they all use the same Gimble bearing.

Phil

[DonziJon]

Went online and found two versions - one is the slim alignment tool - the other has what appears to be bearings attached. One is $39 the other is $97. Recommendations?

FIRST OFF: Go to West Marine and pick up a copy of "Clymers Mercruiser Stern Drive Shop Manual"...for the year of your boat. Mine is 1986-1994. Read the part that you need to read for THIS problem. Then RE Read these posts. Have a BEER. Sleep On It. Then go out to the boat and have another look. :yes: John

BTW: I don't agree with MOP yet....that engine alignment is the problem.

[ajochum]

Could we take a moment to maybe explain a couple of things to me? I did a search on "alignment tool" here and found several posts going back in time. I really couldn't find exactly what the alignment tool is supposed to accomplish.

I am assuming you slip it all the way into the female end of the engine/splines and it will somehow center itself? If it is off, do you move it around to create a centered alignment tool?

Next, as I am within 1" to 1 1/4" of getting this thing on, are my splines engaged - or are they hitting solid on the high spots? I have tried quickly turning the engine over in an attempt to let it fall in place and then giving it the old "kick" - which ain't working for me. (+point for MOP on his alignment theory)

Anyway, I'm ordering the alignment tool tonight unless any of you have an extra one to sell.

Thanks to all for your help. One fun day...

[MOP]

John I don't know if I agree with me yet either! Like I said by chance what "can" happen them being conical within the race is the drive shaft can inadvertently lever them out of line. I have seen them moved in all directions, it is not all that hard to knock them out of whack not much will do you in.

[Trueser]

You may try to turn the u joints to a different location. I still dont think the splines are lined up. It may be the u joints holding it out of place.

try turning the prop.

It can be a pain...............

[Rich]

The alignment tool will tell you if the engine coupler and the gimbal bearing are in "alignment". Put a mark on the tool indicating the "Top". Put some shaft grease (1/32" thick) on the small diameter end of the alignment tool and carefully put it all the way in so the gimbal bearing doesn't wipe off the grease. When you pull it back out, also be careful to not let the bearing wipe off the grease. You will see the spline marks from the coupler in the grease. The marks should be even all the way around. If not, the engine needs to move up or down. Check this a bunch of times to be sure. The alignment tool goes in nice and easy when everything is straight. I did my twin drives like this until alignment was perfect. Then I tightened the engine mount really well. Even with this, the drives gave me a hard time that last inch or so. I used the end of a 3 foot long wood 6 x 6 like a battering ram to finish the job. My buddy held a 2x4 flat against the drive. I hit that with the 6x6. The rubber mallet your using is too light. Both drives went right in. Being a double, triple check type of person, I pulled the drives back off to check that I didn't damage anything. Did the same thing to put them back on.
Good Luck

[ajochum]

Thanks Rich for the information. That scares the hell out of me smacking my outdrive like that - I can only picture the splines not lined up and me damaging the ends and really causing problems.

I have a friend who owns a marina and he is sending his mechanic out (with allignment tool) to complete the install. I will watch him and learn for next time. Am really interested in knowing what the solution will be.

[VetteLT193]

put the prop on, or use vice grips on the prop shaft. Use the prop or vice grips to spin the drive while pushing it on. Please note you MUST spin the drive the right way or it will come out of gear. test it before installing so you know which way to spin it.

I am pretty certain you just need to line up the splines, even slightly off and it won't go. Use a freaking crap ton of grease on everything.

After you get done with this you will realize cutting a hole in the garage wall and building a box around the drive would have been easier than taking it off :bonk:

[gcarter]

Once ya get the manual, watch the mechanic, try it a few times yourself, you can get a drive stand (or two), pull the drive(s) on the stands, and roll 'em away into a convenient corner till next spring......
Then when ya put 'em back on, they'll slide right off the stand(s) and into place on the boat (if your tongue jack is set right).
It really is fairly easy, but the least little thing can ruin your day.
It's a "learned" process. More than likely, it's spline allignment, like others have said. Since you have it in "FORWARD", you have to turn the propellor "normally" since the dog clutch inside the bullet is a one way device. If you turn the prop backwards, it'll not only not turn the input shaft, but it'll also take it back out of gear.

[Pismo]

That is such a beautiful drive it brings tears to my eyes. Like the Mona Lisa. A merc R drive with lifting eye, an absolutely awesome sight, about 1980 and the gimbal has been done already...I like the nose cone too. I guess 1978.

Good luck, it's a pain. Cut a hole in your garage for next winter. I did it twice.

[ajochum]

That is such a beautiful drive it brings tears to my eyes. Like the Mona Lisa. A merc R drive with lifting eye, an absolutely awesome sight, about 1980 and the gimbal has been done already...I like the nose cone too. I guess 1978.

Good luck, it's a pain. Cut a hole in your garage for next winter. I did it twice.

Are you referring to my outdrive? I'm not too familiar with it. I can tell you I bought the boat last year - it's a 1986 with only 380 hours on it and in just about perfect shape. It's a 2+3. I'm sure there are a ton of threads on this, but it sure seems to me that some day our boats are going to be like 1970s muscle cars - through the roof in value. I just cannot believe what a bargain they are in relation to how many were made - 35 or so of mine. Can you imagine? My 1954 Convertible is one of 37,000 made and it is now worth around $40,000. Fabulous boats like all of us have should someday go out of sight.

Finally, we did joke about cutting into the wall. Don't you think an outdrive would make a nice nightstand? ;)

[Pismo]

My garage was not attached to the house and I cut about an 8'x 12' hole in the back of two bays, moved the piece back 4' or so, built up around the sides and roof and had an instant extension for larger boats. It worked great but I had a good location for doing this and a very old unfinished garage that i did not mind cutting up.

I also got by a couple winters by cutting a small 1'x2' door in the garage door so the hitch could stick out. A small door which was closed in summer. Worked well.

The drive you have, the upper anyhow, is a Merc R drive which was made from the early/mid 70s until 1982 or 1983, then the MR came out which was an Alpha in it's beta version. Then the true Alpha drive was introduced in 1986, and the Bravo in 1988. It is a great drive and will serve you well for years. You could get a used one or a used MR or Alpha which will bolt right on easily for much less than $3500.

[ajochum]

Well, it's Saturday Night! and the mechanic never showed up to put on the outdrive. A beautiful weekend to be boating and it sits in the driveway..:shocking:

[MOP]

Where the heck are you in NY????????????? If you are within say 1-1/12 hours from me I get the damn thing running, I have spent the better part of my life making this stuff work!

[ajochum]

Thanks MOP - I'm just a bit away from you - as far apart as you could ever be a still be in the same state. Am in Western New York, on Lake Chautauqua, which is about 8 hours away. Thanks for the offer! I'll get on them tomorrow and hopefully put this to bed.

[MOP]

Thanks MOP - I'm just a bit away from you - as far apart as you could ever be a still be in the same state. Am in Western New York, on Lake Chautauqua, which is about 8 hours away. Thanks for the offer! I'll get on them tomorrow and hopefully put this to bed.

To bad 1K is so far in the future we could meet 1/2 way!

Phil

[mrfixxall]

Thanks MOP - I'm just a bit away from you - as far apart as you could ever be a still be in the same state. Am in Western New York, on Lake Chautauqua, which is about 8 hours away. Thanks for the offer! I'll get on them tomorrow and hopefully put this to bed.


Is theit any serface rust on the input shaft? i had one with a little rust between the o rings from sitting over winter, that was keeping it from sliding on all the way..

[ajochum]

OK - I'll give it a look tomorrow. We greased the hell out of it, but maybe there is some rust there. I have it in to within a inch or so and I try to turn the prop counter-clockwise and it won't turn a bit, which at least tells me (I think) that the splines are meshing. It is in full-forward on the throttle. Just don't know.....

Am very seriously thinking of putting it in the garage backwards next year and taking the bottom panel off the garage door, building a box to allow for it to stick out for the Winter.

[MOP]

As far in as you are the splines are starting in so you will not get any rotation, I know what happened is that when you removed it you moved the drive up, down, side ways while the shaft was still in the gimble throwing the bearing slightly off center. When your mech does show up he will put the tool in whack it with his palm in a few directions until it slides fully in and then the drive will slip as easy as it came off.

[ajochum]

It's In !! Went to a mechanic and explained everything, and he confirmed the splines were in, so he told me to take a big piece of wood (which some of you told me to get the nerve to do) and beat the S)8# out of it. I gave it three or four big wacks with a 2 x 8 and it finally slid into place. I really want to thank all of you for your help. Couldn't have done it without you. Most importantly I learned a lot for next year.

Now, let's see if I can remember to put back all of the plugs so it doesn't blow water all over the place.....

[Rich]

Glad to see it went well and that I'm not the only wood battering ram user.

[Pismo]

I hope you can find a way to store without having to remove the drive every year but if you need to it should get a little easier.

[gcarter]

As I mentioned previously, you can buy stands on eBay for about $100.00. that are very handy, stable, and easy to move around.
When removing and reinstalling, adjust the tongue jack so that the drive lines up w/ the stand.....it's very easy to make the transition w/o hurting your back or putting the drive in any danger.
You obviously can do w/out it, but since I bought mine, I wouldn't be w/out one ever again.

[ajochum]

The stand is on my list of things I must have. And yes, it will get easier each year.

By the way, I could start a separate thread on this, but if any of you catch this: on the outdrive is the zinc 3" round circle that keeps down corrosion (I believe that is what it's for). There appears to be a tab below it - sort of a fin I think. Mine is broken off. Is this something important? Anything related to performance?

[joseph m. hahnl]

I would like to point out that grease can not be compressed. If you put to much grease on the tip of the splines it can create interference inside the crank shaft. There is a mechanics trick for removing pilot bearings from the fly wheel by filling the hole with grease and putting a punch through the center. you keep filling it with grease and compressing it. the bearing pushes out like a hot knife through butter.

any way I had to smack the hell out of mine too!!!! It's just what you have to doo!!:yes:

[Pismo]

The stand is on my list of things I must have. And yes, it will get easier each year.

By the way, I could start a separate thread on this, but if any of you catch this: on the outdrive is the zinc 3" round circle that keeps down corrosion (I believe that is what it's for). There appears to be a tab below it - sort of a fin I think. Mine is broken off. Is this something important? Anything related to performance?

You can have the round zinc circle with no fin, a larger fin or a small fin. It makes no difference.

[ajochum]

Thanks!