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CHACHI
05-10-2009, 08:27 AM
I am finally getting around to relocating and installing new gauges and panels in my 22.

Thought everything was going well until I swapped over the wiring for the nav/anchor switch. There are lots of grey wires with jumpers and I hooked it up wrong.

Does anyone know how this switch gets wired or will I have to contact Donzi.

It is a stock '99 22C with Carling rocker switches. The nav/anchor switch is a ON-off-ON and I do not recall which way the switch is thrown for what function.

Any help would be appreciated.

Also, anyone with a GPS speedo, where did you mount your antenna?

I really do not want to mount it on the deck.

Thanks in advance.

Ken

CHACHI
05-10-2009, 10:49 AM
Scott, the issue is what terminal on the switch are the wires connected to?

Ken

yeller
05-10-2009, 10:50 AM
My wire colors will probably be different, but the wiring should be the same. I have my switches out and the wires labelled so I'll take a look today.

yeller
05-10-2009, 11:34 AM
Just checked and don't think I can be much help. Seems a couple of my labels got torn off. :bonk:

Here's what I do have:

Dark Blue and a Grey wire on pin 4 (two wires)
Grey wire on pin 2 and 5 (jumpered)
Grey w/white wire on pin 8 and 9 (jumpered)

There is a Black wire which connects to pin 7 on 4 of my 5 switches. I don't know which one it misses because that label has been lost, so at this point, it's unclear if it goes to the nav/anchor switch or not.

CHACHI
05-11-2009, 07:47 AM
Glen, thanks, I will wait until next weekend when I am back up at camp.

I will keep you posted.

Ken

mattyboy
05-11-2009, 08:30 AM
on a single pull double throw switch usually power will go into middle pole on the switch then you need to get a meter and throw the switch to see if it is a SPDT or a OFF on A on A+B which it should be otherwise you will have a backfeed circuit and the nav lights will come any time the switch is on

SPDT switch is off no continuity between the three poles
on down continuity between the center and lower pole
on up continuity between the center and upper poles

Off On A On A+B off no continuity between the 3 poles
On A continuity between common(power) pole and pole A
On A +B continuity between all poles


Don't ask how I know this ;)


your friend in boat wiring


Sparky McShort

MOP
05-11-2009, 08:31 AM
Print this!!! http://www.cmsquick.com/prod_17_S_Tec01.html You must have the jumper on the wrong pole or what ever! Basicly it is easy except when you are under the dash!!!!!!!!!!!! Hot is the middle depending on the markings for which is which, make sure the run and anchor go to the right ploes then add the jumper. I have done humdreds and still have to check to see if I got them right!!! I will post this on the board also!!!

Phil

mattyboy
05-11-2009, 08:44 AM
yes with a Double pull double throw switch with both center poles hot ( with power) would work too just like MOP posted usually a slide switch is an OFF ON A , ON A+B switch one click then two clicks the old pull once then pull all the way out switches in the older classics and usually rocker switches are throw switches

yeller
05-11-2009, 10:43 AM
Good link MOP. Bookmarked it.

Looks like MP has the real solution.......meter it.

I'll have to meter mine before reconnecting it because the pin #'s I gave you wouldn't work based on MOP's link. The #7 pin makes sense though. The light in the rocker switch. Only 4 of my switches are lighted....hence the missing black wire jumper for the 5th switch.

MOP
05-11-2009, 11:55 AM
I was in the biz a long time and still screwed it up many times, the trick is to throw the switch to the position you want and have someone else watching if the right lights go on then add the jumper for the paired set. Most OEMs used a standard wire code but some did not, but laying half upside down under the dash is always a challenge!!!!!!!!!!!

gcarter
05-11-2009, 05:24 PM
Here in the days of wood burning stoves and microwave ovens we use meters...

...and buy manuals.

gcarter
05-11-2009, 05:24 PM
But Scott's right, meters are important.

Pismo
05-11-2009, 06:14 PM
I always rewired mine so it was bow+stern or just bow light.

yeller
05-11-2009, 06:31 PM
Why would you want just the bow light?

mattyboy
05-11-2009, 08:31 PM
the meter is way overkill for this job a simple continuity tester is all that is needed.

my meter has not seen the light of day in years, i can find 24 volt talk battery with my fingers, ;)

mattyboy
05-12-2009, 08:06 AM
If he can't figure out if the bow and/or stern light is on, what makes ya think a continuity light is going to help?? :tongue: :tongue:
anon...


well then he is going to have to lay down a few more bucks and get the upgraded continuity tester that buzzes also ;) :tongue:



BUZZZZZZZZZZZZZT sorry your time is up


:)

Pismo
05-12-2009, 08:22 AM
Why would you want just the bow light?

Glare.

MOP
05-12-2009, 08:23 AM
:yes::lightning:nilly:

yeller
05-12-2009, 05:15 PM
Pismo, sorry but I still don't get it. If it's dark enough that you need lights, you become a hazard on the water without your stern light. That's a lot of protection you're giving up.

Ghost
05-12-2009, 05:36 PM
Glare.


No luck (or never considered) getting a taller sternlight with a glare shield for the boat? I know they aren't all that pretty, but the aluminum poles are light enough now that you can go pretty tall without much hassle. Just a thought.

MOP
05-12-2009, 06:30 PM
No luck (or never considered) getting a taller sternlight with a glare shield for the boat? I know they aren't all that pretty, but the aluminum poles are light enough now that you can go pretty tall without much hassle. Just a thought.


I put a 4 footer on a G3 years ago and it snapped off flush with the base was PITA to get out, it got trimmed to 3 feet and lasted.

Pismo
05-12-2009, 06:32 PM
Pismo, sorry but I still don't get it. If it's dark enough that you need lights, you become a hazard on the water without your stern light. That's a lot of protection you're giving up.

When pulling into a dock or the like it kills the stern light only so you can see. The bow light helps at that point.

mjw930
05-12-2009, 07:33 PM
You guys are making this way too complicated. For anchor/running lights you use a SPDT ON-OFF-ON switch. For the 22C (at least my old '87) there are 4 lights, Front Running, Rear Running, Mast Running and Mast Anchor. The trick is powering the front, rear and mast running with the switch in one direction and only the mast running + anchor on the other. The simple solution, 2 diodes (that what Donzi used).

A 3 pack of 1 Amp diodes from radioshack, some connectors and hear shrink tubing and you're all set.

Wired this way pushing the switch to the top activates running lights and to the bottom the anchor lights (because the action on the front of the switch is the mirror of the rear. Switch in the up position, bottom contact activated.

mattyboy
05-12-2009, 07:41 PM
diodes easier????? a dpdt switch does it nicely without diodes

mjw930
05-13-2009, 07:53 PM
diodes easier????? a dpdt switch does it nicely without diodes

Good point but the factory used a SPDT and Nosinger shipped a SPDT when I replaced my dash so I had this locked into my feeble brain.

The link posted earlier is great unless you had the dual purpose mast light and the stern mounted stern light that the older 22C's came with. For the older boats the following wiring should work without the diodes.

And yes Scott, I am an engineer...... Our brains don't work normally, we always will make thing more difficult than they need to be :bonk:

Instead of a drawing here's how you wire a DPDT for the older systems:

Back of switch

4 - 1

5 - 2

6 - 3

5 & 2 = +12V
6 = Stern + Bow lights
3 = Front Mast Light
4 = Rear Mast Light
Jumper 1 to 3

1 + 4 = +12V when switch is in the DOWN position (Anchor)
6 + 3 = +12V when switch is in the UP position (Navigation)

yeller
05-22-2009, 01:56 PM
Sent you a PM Ken, but figured I'd post it here as well.

I finally metered my switch and although I haven't hooked up power to check, this is how I feel the Carling switch should be wired.

Pin 2 and 5 are 12v +
Pin 1 and 3 to anchor light +
Pin 6 to bow light +
Pin 7 to 12v -

One way will turn on anchor light only.
The other way will turn on bow and anchor light.

As far as switch action goes: The anchor light (only) will be on when the thinner end of the rocker is pressed down.

If you want the switch action to work the other way around, then use the following:

Pin 2 and 5 are 12v +
Pin 1 and 3 to anchor light +
Pin 4 to bow light +
Pin 7 to 12v -

Note: Pin 7 is ground for the internal rocker switch light. If you have an unlighted switch, then Pin 7 is not used.

CHACHI
05-23-2009, 07:28 AM
The switch was wired at 6:30 this morning. Was given some wrong info last week which was causing all the issues.

We are good, thanks to everyone.

Ken