PDA

View Full Version : SWEET 16 PROP RECOMMENDATIONS 1989 Merc 5.7L



opti99
04-20-2009, 08:03 AM
Hey guys I have a 1994 Sweet 16 with a 1989 Merc 5.7L with 4 inch Hardin tips. It came with an aluminum Michigan 013067 I think, but I think there has to be something better out there so I am looking for suggestions. Also I am having a problem with the engine cutting out when shifting from fwd or rev into neutral. Any suggestions on how to fix that? Also any idea what ratio my drive should be for the 16? What kind of speed should I be seeing? Thanks in advance.

Just Say N20
04-20-2009, 08:46 AM
Just a guess, but the engine cutting out when shifting was designed into the mercruiser. Shifting into gear engages gears. When people slowly shifted into gear, you could hear the clatter of teeth hitting until they eventually engaged. The higher the idle, the more trouble some. So Mercury came up with a temp engine "kill" to minimize this situation.

Sweet Cheekz
04-20-2009, 08:49 AM
Contact Big Grizzly here on the board for your prop needs He will do a great job NK

opti99
04-20-2009, 09:45 AM
Hey guys thanks for the replies so far...any idea on how to fix the actual turning off? I am aware of the shifting cut out switch, but it seems that it shouldn't be killing the engine. Also I don't know how long I will have the boat so I don't want to spend a huge amount on a prop just looking for general ball park dimensions...sounds like a 14X21 is about right??

VetteLT193
04-20-2009, 09:53 AM
Hey guys thanks for the replies so far...any idea on how to fix the actual turning off? I am aware of the shifting cut out switch, but it seems that it shouldn't be killing the engine. Also I don't know how long I will have the boat so I don't want to spend a huge amount on a prop just looking for general ball park dimensions...sounds like a 14X21 is about right??

look for 2 cables mounted horizontally on a bracket in the back of the boat. They should be mounted on the transom, near the top.

The shift interrupter is on that bracket, you'll see a metal plate that is bent. when you shift into gear 2 pieces of metal hit... the bent plate and another attached to the shifting mechanism. First step is to see what that is doing. it shouldn't make contact very long. If that is out of whack and touching for too long it can cause a problem... or if there is play in the cable and sometimes it hangs you will just kill the engine instead of shifting. if there is play you'll probably have problems when you go from R - N - F or F - N - R, but maybe not N-F or N-R by itself.

Another problem is weak shifting. don't dilly dally in and out of gear.

Just Say N20
04-20-2009, 11:52 AM
I apologize for my previous post. It didn't provide any helpful information at all.

Now, what LTVette193 posted. . .there is some good information.

DonziJon
04-20-2009, 12:42 PM
My shift interupter switch is on top of the engine (350). The engine cutting out during shifting can be Adjusted Out by removing the solid brass cylinder, located on the long threaded portion of the throttle linkage from it's fixing....Then either screwing the cylinder/barrel Foreword a few turns OR ..Aft a few turns..whichever direction works. Then replace the cylinder on it's fixing and try it. Re-adjust if necessary...maybe in the other direction, until it works. John

VetteLT193
04-20-2009, 12:47 PM
My shift interupter switch is on top of the engine (350). The engine cutting out during shifting can be Adjusted Out by removing the solid brass cylinder, located on the long threaded portion of the throttle linkage from it's fixing....Then either screwing the cylinder/barrel Foreword a few turns OR ..Aft a few turns..whichever direction works. Then replace the cylinder on it's fixing and try it. Re-adjust if necessary...maybe in the other direction, until it works. John

yep... that whole area is adjustment central.

If you start messing with the cable adjustment too: one trick I figured out is you can see the shift position at the drive by looking in back of it, at the drive, kind of through the transom assembly. if you figure out where F N R are then you don't have to run the boat very much... you should be able to dial everything in pretty close before starting.

BigGrizzly
04-20-2009, 06:11 PM
Opti99, What engine do you have there were several, then the drive ratio, I would think a 21 mite be small, but can't tell with out that info.

Sam
04-20-2009, 09:27 PM
Talk to Griz about a Turbo. I ran 22" on my Alpha Gen II, it was by far the best prop out of the many I tried. Defiantly the best bang for the buck in my opinion.

opti99
04-22-2009, 07:37 AM
The engine is not the original in the boat it's a 1989 5.7L Merc 260hp. I am not sure of the drive ratio I was curious if anyone had any idea given it is currently swinging MI 031067 (13 3/8 x 25 aluminum) and I have to trim way up to get the engine to 4400 rpm and probably around 55mph. The person that had the boat before me put a Sterndrive Engineering drive on it that I was told is just an off brand Merc Alpha 1. Is there any easy way to find out the ratio? Thank you to everyone for the help so far.

BigGrizzly
04-22-2009, 09:47 AM
The drive ratio should be stamped on the gear case. In any case. I feel that the prop is too small a diameter and too big in the pitch area. You need to drop to a 23 X14 1/4 approximately. The aluninum props work onsome boats but Donzis prefer the shatp entry of a good quality stainless prop.