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f_inscreenname
04-12-2009, 03:09 AM
Have to make some custom mounts for the Monza's Chrysler small block. But I do not know how. So who wants to make a couple bucks?

http://img27.imageshack.us/img27/1857/81326668.jpg

f_inscreenname
04-12-2009, 08:56 AM
They are going where the old ones used to go. But this time in a little different way. The old way used a special mounting plate that went on the front of the motor then bolted to the sides of the stringer. All of this is long gone and almost impossible to find. I also like more of a universal system so in case I (or the new owner) decides to swap out the Chrysler small block with a BB Chevy like I did with the Nova you wont have to find another special mounting plate and the money that goes with it.
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e139/vrod02/IMG_0759.jpg

I plan on using what I found in an original Nova24 for front/back (the motors are in backward) motor mounts. They just had these "L" shaped aluminum trays that bolted to the stringer on the sides and the motor mounts sits on top of the "shelf" sticking out. Like in my drawing.
I want to take it one step further to avoid crushing and twisting the stringer with all the side torque by a hanging tray (what happened to Jan's Nova24) by adding the top piece and turning it into a corner. This will allow me to bolt the vertical and the horizontal (with some big backer plates) to the stringer making it much stronger. Last week I fixed the damage from the original and Mickey Mouse motor mounts they built for the Blown BB that was in it at one time. The reason for the glass work in the one picture. Now to put something in a little more solid and universal in it.
http://img520.imageshack.us/img520/8153/94971349.jpg

http://img520.imageshack.us/img520/2746/87931893.jpg

f_inscreenname
04-12-2009, 09:02 AM
Aluminum is preferred but I thought Steel would be easier for the backyarders to make. You can omit side brace if it will keep structural integrity. (man I have been working with floor plans to long.:biggrin.:)

rustnrot
04-12-2009, 10:14 AM
You may be able to use these, although no top piece, brand new leftover from a project, each one is 8 inches long, 4 inches on each side, mounting holes 6 inches centers, mounting slots at 5.5" and 4" to fit most engine mounts, 3/8" thick cast AL made by Marine Hardware, Inc.

f_inscreenname
04-12-2009, 10:37 AM
Thanks Rust. That is what they used in the Nova24 I mentioned. Because it only attach to the sides of the stringer box it put to much side torque on it and ended up twisting the stringer in toward the motor at the top and started to crush the stringer at the bottom. With the top plate added it will not be able to do that.
Thanks for the offer though.:)

PS Don't anyone make anything yet until I get some final measurements.

mrfixxall
04-12-2009, 02:33 PM
Yep got three and know how to use them! i have some alunimum mounts that i can add some alunimum to,,ill have to see if their the size you need tho..

mrfixxall
04-12-2009, 04:36 PM
Bout time for a new wire wheel there fixit...

Had a newer one but the duty cycle sucks and it took a crap,cant beat the old millers with the copper coils.thease old miller matic's and the abp wont die.:biggrin:

f_inscreenname
04-12-2009, 06:06 PM
Final version.
The final width (in the drawing on the right) dose not have to be 4"s but can not be less.
Has to be strong enough to hold the front of a BB motor and my boats tend to bounce when under way. :biggrin:
http://img4.imageshack.us/img4/2574/89178345.jpg

As for the brace, I would feel a little better if it had something in the corner at least just to prevent flex if any.

Thanks again Rust and everyone. Sorry to be a pain about what I want but even though I have plans on selling the Monza at some point in the future and I'm sure Rust's brackets would have worked I'm rebuilding it like I plan on keeping it forever. The reason behind this is because every time I do a boat I always end up wishing that the past owners would have thought to do it that way in the smallest degree. At least they should have fixed what they screwed up before they went on to screw something else up. I'm getting sick of folks using these awesome hulls for test beds for over blown motors or anything else they need to cut a hole in hull to make work. Oooo lets get a depth finder, cut a hole in the dash. Let's put a new top on, all new snaps leaving the old. How about a rod holder, a speedometer, a radio, 4"exhaust......... Holes, holes, holes. In the Monza alone I had to fix 13, 1 inch or bigger thru holes in the transom alone. The home made trim system for the Volvo 280 had more lines and bolts then a octopus has legs.
So I may be overkilling things a little bit but thats the way I'm learning to do things so I don't do them again and again. So thanks again a head of time.

mrfixxall
04-12-2009, 08:37 PM
Have a couple in our shop, but I was referring to the grinder/wire wheel...
lamo,,i like the old wheels to!! you dont get poked in your hands when the little wire thingys like the new ones do :)
your going to have to cut a access hole to through bolt and plate the backside or the mount will flex to much.

f_inscreenname
04-12-2009, 09:13 PM
your going to have to cut a access hole to through bolt and plate the backside or the mount will flex to much.

Look in the first pictures of the post. There is 8X10 holes already there for that. :shades:

f_inscreenname
04-14-2009, 06:20 AM
Anyone?

f_inscreenname
04-14-2009, 08:13 PM
Use 3/8" 4 x 4 al angle, install the "t" brace down 1" from top for strongest bracket. A welded 3 x 4 bracket is going to be inherently weaker than a piece of angle..

Or, just use the 4 x 4 as is, butt weld the t brace, and raise the engine mounts..

I was hoping for something that looks a little professional. Remember I plan on selling the boat. And again the welding thing.....
Maybe I can do this and get the crotch of each "L" welded.

http://img23.imageshack.us/img23/5343/40908002.jpg

f_inscreenname
04-14-2009, 08:26 PM
You the man! :biggrin:

penbroke
04-14-2009, 09:23 PM
I was hoping for something that looks a little professional. Remember I plan on selling the boat. And again the welding thing.....
Maybe I can do this and get the crotch of each "L" welded.
http://img23.imageshack.us/img23/5343/40908002.jpg


Two pieces of angle welded as shown above (or overlapped the other way) will be far stronger than anything welded perpendicular to something else. Add gussets if you feel the need...


I'm just sayin'...
Frank

BigGrizzly
04-15-2009, 07:32 AM
This is why we call him friend, try to get this on another site.

f_inscreenname
04-15-2009, 06:27 PM
Have 4 x 4, and 6 x 4. If I overlap a 4" wide piece of the 6 x 4 over the 4 x 4, the horizontal "side tab" will be 5-5/8ish" long. I figure I will make the 4 x 4 piece about 1/4" wider (4.25") than the drawing depicts so as to have an edge to weld the 4 x 6 piece to..

Comprende?

Still do not think a gusset is needed, but I can pop a couple on.. No holes, you need to drill those there...

http://www.supernova19.com/forumcw/Smileys/classic/clueless.gif...............................http://www.supernova19.com/forumcw/Smileys/classic/uglystupid2.gif..........................I like what you are doing but I would.........http://www.supernova19.com/forumcw/Smileys/classic/foot_in_mouth.gif........................... O.K. http://www.supernova19.com/forumcw/Smileys/classic/paranoid.gif

PS, If you have anything left over that I can use as large washer for the back side don't throw it away.http://www.supernova19.com/forumcw/Smileys/classic/grin.gif

f_inscreenname
06-22-2009, 09:22 AM
I sent you an email????:garfield:
Sorry about that. They worked out perfect. They were a little to low but that was my fault. I just had to build some composite spacer blocks and it was all set. They are solid as hell and look damn good to.
The boat is about done. The only thing left is that I’m still waiting on exhaust (I’m about to fly to AZ and kill someone). The first time I can get the boat in the water the trailer will get painted and it's over. :yes:
I really like this boat. It was done right with plans on keeping it at one point but...... After a test drive a For Sale sign has to go on it.
Got to pay off some of the next project. I think you are going to like the next project. I'm not ready for such a big project to hit the front yard and money wise (while still holding the Monza) it could not be a worse time but this is one I could not pass on.

http://img26.imageshack.us/img26/1425/10467980.jpg


http://imagecloset.com/25/321b8031d403999f2ccc78e411f87df0/Untitled-24.jpg

f_inscreenname
06-22-2009, 08:21 PM
Want to buy it? It's for a very good cause.:yes:

f_inscreenname
06-22-2009, 08:41 PM
Hmm, lets see, that plus a chunk of cash and you can have a Criterion SS...

I might even toss a SN-19 into the mix...

Got one better for ya. You buy the Monza and I'll put your name on the side of this as a co-driver when it's done.:eek:
http://www.supernova19.com/26715260.jpg

f_inscreenname
06-22-2009, 09:06 PM
Got to fix the original Rocket trailer first, pick it up this coming weekend (gonna need some help with the surge brakes), tires are on the way for it and I'm buying paint by the case. Also need some sort of bow stop roller or something. After a couple weeks it should be good enough to bring the race boat home.http://www.supernova19.com/forumcw/Smileys/classic/Bouncing.gif

f_inscreenname
06-22-2009, 09:45 PM
perseverance pays!!

along with a large loan that I'll be paying on for years to come. :nilly:

It's going back to it's original look in the picture. Inside and out. Power will be a little different. It will keep the two motors into one drive shaft set up but I'm thinking BBC 454's for power. Blown 427 Ford side oilers are way to much money for me to play with for the next few years.

I'm totally open for donations. White paint, "24" graphics, flags, Super Nova stickers....................:kingme:

f_inscreenname
06-22-2009, 10:25 PM
LOL, I can ship some swipes, your gonna need em ;) :D

Are the SN decals available??

Swipes :yes: Send them by the truck load. :kingme:
Nothing is available. One of the guys had new Nova Marine stickers made up so that one is done. The rest are all going to have to be made from the couple pictures I have. I don't think it will be to hard. The 24 is kind of basic, the flag is the same flag as on a Donzi, The "SuperNova's" will be a guess though.
Ferd made some awesome improvements from the original race boat. He glassed in some areas like the cabin entrance. Made molded glass deck, motor covers, teak floor, molded glass dash etc, etc. All the stuff I cant do.