Assistance Required. You were all correct! Thanks

[xedmoc]

1990 Sweet Sixteen Situation

Require you assistance, again, you were all correct!

http://www.donzi.net/forums/showthread.php?t=52914&highlight=xedmoc

Had a rough day yesterday, took the boat up to Lake Geneva, WI for a
little spin before having the boat serviced and experienced a problem.

After sitting all winter in my heated garage, the 16 started like a
champ, and I drove from my home in Chicago to WI, launched the boat, on a flat calm beautiful sunny day on Lake Geneva. Got about a mile out and smoke started pouring out of the starboard Corsa tip.

I shut her down, and went to inspect...It appears that that inside the
tip the butterfly was stuck in the open position. Everything on that side
was HOT and the other tip was fine and cool. The smell of burning rubber
was everywhere! :frown::cussball:

Being a newbie to boats and "the 16", I drove the boat slowly back to
shore trailered it and took it to Grand Sport Center in Lake in the
Hills, IL for a scheduled oil change, potential tune up, install of a new
stereo head, and install of a ship-to-shore radio...and now to fix this
fire/tip/issue.

The funny thing was that the bilge pump was running like crazy and it was
almost like the water that would be normally distributed to the starboard
side of the engine was being re-routed to the bilge ?!?!?

You people were dead on with your comments last year when I got this
boat, It was difficult to learn to drive, but I now love the boat and it
ran fine all last summer, and fall, and happily spanked many-a master
craft and ski natuiqes to the beach head for lunches (to their utter
suprise, of course!)

What do you all think of this situation? What advise would you have for
me in managing this situation?

Also, I am in the cigar business and would be glad to send any of you
sime fine cigars at no cost to you. (xedmoc@mac.com)

Thank-You Very much for all of your previous comments and I look forward
to any advise you would have for me. Obviously, I know very little of
marine mechanics and am learning more about this little Donzi every day.

Thank-You Very Much,

Eric N. Hauser (xedmoc)
1990 Donzi Sweet 16
--:rolleyes:

[CHACHI]

Sounds like a water hose to the starboard exhaust manifold has either split, fallen off, or the hose clamp is not tight.

Ken

[Just Say N20]

I don't know if it would affect only one exhaust manifold, but if it wasn't winterized properly, it might have popped a freeze plug from the block.

Should be VERY easy to trace. Hook it up to water (ear muffs on the outdrive? I'm not familiar with OMC) start it, and with a bright flash light, look around the engine/exhaust manifolds and see where water is coming from, making sure not to get into any spinning parts.

[Trueser]

Where are you In Chicago?

[xedmoc]

O'Hare Airport.

[xedmoc]

I will look at that...

Eric
--


I don't know if it would affect only one exhaust manifold, but if it wasn't winterized properly, it might have popped a freeze plug from the block.

Should be VERY easy to trace. Hook it up to water (ear muffs on the outdrive? I'm not familiar with OMC) start it, and with a bright flash light, look around the engine/exhaust manifolds and see where water is coming from, making sure not to get into any spinning parts.

[xedmoc]

heated garage...I know I should not have done that.

Eric


Drain plugs left open at winterization??

[xedmoc]

Really appreciate your help.

Eric



Sounds like a water hose to the starboard exhaust manifold has either split, fallen off, or the hose clamp is not tight.

Ken

[xedmoc]

n/t below


Where are you In Chicago?

[Trueser]

Orland Park

Run it on the hose and see what you got.

Pm me for my Number

[Trueser]

Did you hear anything yet?

[Planetwarmer]

If you have a fresh water flush, I would hook it up and turn on the hose before you start the engine. Don't run the engine with the flush. If you dont have a fw flush, then just do what the other fellers said and run it in the driveway. It should be very obvious because there will be water squirting out of something in the engine compartment.

As unlikely as it is, I would check the oil to insure the oil has no water in it. If there is water in the oil, it will be milky in color. You will need to run the engine a bit to mix the oil and water if if it has been sitting.

[xedmoc]

Did you hear anything yet?

It seems the impeller on the starboard side was not functioning, like you said...Good Diagnosis! So they had to send the corsa tip back to corsa to be rebuilt, and replace the impeller. Am having them re-cover the trailer beds and greas the gears, oil change, and new spark plugs.

I'm a little suprised they have had the boat for a month. It just does'nt seem like a high priority to them. Supposed to have it by next Friday. Had them replace the stereo, and the other things I mentioned...The grand total will be about 1700 bucks.

That's the scoop, can't wait to get the boat back. I have the itemized description of repairs and costs if anyones interested in hearing the totals for each repair.

Thanks, Very Much for thinking of me...I need all the help I can get !

Eric :popcorn:

[mrfixxall]

The grand total will be about 1700 bucks.. sounds steep to me..

Where did you take the boat to get repaired?

[MOP]

$1,700 sounds a bit high, yes please do post the bill.

Phil

[zelatore]

It seems the impeller on the starboard side was not functioning, like you said...Good Diagnosis! So they had to send the corsa tip back to corsa to be rebuilt, and replace the impeller. Am having them re-cover the trailer beds and greas the gears, oil change, and new spark plugs.

I'm a little suprised they have had the boat for a month. It just does'nt seem like a high priority to them. Supposed to have it by next Friday. Had them replace the stereo, and the other things I mentioned...The grand total will be about 1700 bucks.

That's the scoop, can't wait to get the boat back. I have the itemized description of repairs and costs if anyones interested in hearing the totals for each repair.

Thanks, Very Much for thinking of me...I need all the help I can get !

Eric :popcorn:

Looking at that work list, I'd say the $1700 isn't too far out of line. I don't know what the labor rate is in your area (it's about $100/hr out here) and I don't know the specifics of what gear you went with - a new stereo could be $100 or $1000 depending on if you went Audiovox or Alpine - so it's hard to be positive. But I don't see anything too shocking there off the top of my head.

[MOP]

After thinking about it I have to agree with Don on the bill if real, I am also very curious about the statement the impeller on that side! First off it is a 16 with an Alpha drive, the pump is in the drive. On all of our boats there is only one pump, could very well be a misunderstanding of what was said on your part. But consider the fact that if you lose water flow the "Entire" engine gets hot not one side. Being an old boat mech something just don't add up. Rebuilding of a Corsa tip sound strange when you can buy them used in good condition at very reasonable prices. I know from speaking to my buddies at the yards here things are not good, most yard have let some of their guys go to get through. Lastly I am with Kenny on the hose on that side failing or falling off, that would be very easily missed by you not being savvy about the workings below the hatch.

Phil

[joseph m. hahnl]

After thinking about it I have to agree with Don on the bill if real, I am also very curious about the statement the impeller on that side! First off it is a 16 with an Alpha drive, the pump is in the drive. On all of our boats there is only one pump, could very well be a misunderstanding of what was said on your part. But consider the fact that if you lose water flow the "Entire" engine gets hot not one side. Being an old boat mech something just don't add up. Rebuilding of a Corsa tip sound strange when you can buy them used in good condition at very reasonable prices. I know from speaking to my buddies at the yards here things are not good, most yard have let some of their guys go to get through. Lastly I am with Kenny on the hose on that side failing or falling off, that would be very easily missed by you not being savvy about the workings below the hatch.

Phil

If the impeller had broken a lobe it may have blocked off that bank.

But with water pouring into the bilge I would agree with the lower hose failure:yes:.
I had one pop on a 100 ++ degree day. scared the liven life out of me:shocking:. The water sprayed the wires so the hole bank lost spark :garfield:. Steam poured out of the hatch:confused:. When in panic mode it's difficult to tell the difference between steam and oil:nilly:. I cut the hose shorter and put it back on:wrench:. That lasted for 5yrs:crossfing:. So this year no chances, I replaced all the coolant hose with the Rubco blue stripe Wonder Flex:yes:.

[MOP]

To Quote Joe: If the impeller had broken a lobe it may have blocked off that bank.

If the impeller goes it ends up in the P/S cooler and cooks the whole motor!

[xedmoc]

First off, Thank-You all, for your help with the newbie so far, you guys are too kind - Now I've really gotten myself into a situation...:shocking:

Help Donzi Wizards - I'm in over my head!
Don't know what to believe? Dealer say's I need a whole new motor!
Totally Bummed, No Boat, Engines Dead
-----------------------------------------
Dropped the boat off at Grand Sport Center in Lake in The Hills, IL, a
week and a half later I'm called by an employee and told the impller, as
previously mentioned, failed causing the starboard side exhaust system to
cook.
They run through the prices with me, scan below, totaling $1892.42 for
the following;
1. install new stereo head, supplied by me ($115)
2. install ship-to-shore radio, supplied by me ($316.25)
3. starboard side exhaust repair ($208.50)
4. oil change & gear lube ($184.50)
5. replace spark plugs ($92.00) - kid, tells me the engine runs like a
clock and does not need a tune up, just replace the plugs.
6. recarpet bunks on trailer ($514.00)
7. replace trailer bunks ($214.00)
I call these guys a week ago and they say they will call me when it's
ready, they dont call, I suprise them and show up at the dealer yesterday
morning...
The boat is sitting in the parking lot, the stereo radio has been
replaced (the kid who did it, shows up and says he did it the day
before), marine radio has not been installed.
I open the engine cover, and the left side exhaust system is somewhat
apart, hose clamps laying on the bottem of the boat and misc hoses on the
floor inside the boat. The corsa tip on the starboard side is gone and
there is a hole in the boat where it was.

The Devastating News, I need a new motor?
-----------------------------------------
The owner of the dealership calls me this evening and says when they were
putting the boat back together today they pulled out a freeze plug and
when they put it back in water and oil started shooting out of the oil
stick port. Therefore there is a crack in the block somewhere and I NEED
TO REPLACE THE WHOLE ENGINE! Needless to say I'm in shock.

These guys had this boat for over a month, and now it looks like I'm
screwed.

The funny thing is the gentleman I spoke to this evening say's when can
you get over to pay this repair bill, so we can look into this furthur ?!?!?!

Gent's, I dont know what to do at this point, tell me what to do. I'm learning that perhaps this boat is not for a rookie like me?
What should I do, I'd be willing to pay somebody to come with me and help me figure this out. Anybody in Illinois or Wisconsin, Indiana willing to help me I pay your travel and make it worth your while.
Maybee this is normal working with boat dealers, is it? Advise.
Sad Donzi Lover - (312) 218-2388, feel free to call -
Thanks in Advance -
xedmoc (Eric)

[Carl C]

Sorry to hear of your rotten luck. It sounds like that shop is sticking it to you. This is why I like to do my own work. How mechanically inclined are you? You need to learn to do this stuff yourself. $514 to carpet the bunks?? WTF, it takes a couple hours and a few yards of outdoor carpet and a staple gun with SS staples. If it were me I'd be looking for a used motor on the various boating forums and drop it in. You could be boating in no time and only out a few grand. Good luck, the guys here will help you through this.

[xedmoc]

Thanks Carl,

I really want to keep the boat, I'm somewhat mechanically inclined, used to be a tool and die maker, now a management consultant. My dad was a mechanical engineer...Thanks for the help without you gents I would not know where to turn.

Eric
--



Sorry to hear of your rotten luck. It sounds like that shop is sticking it to you. This is why I like to do my own work. How mechanically inclined are you? You need to learn to do this stuff yourself. $514 to carpet the bunks?? WTF, it takes a couple hours and a few yards of outdoor carpet and a staple gun with SS staples. If it were me I'd be looking for a used motor on the various boating forums and drop it in. You could be boating in no time and only out a few grand. Good luck, the guys here will help you through this.

[MOP]

Got a hitch???????????? May be time to tow to a new MECH!!!!!!!!!!! The pad seems to get softer with every new revelation!!!!!!!!!!

Gee times are tough in my old Biz but it seems to be getting a bit deep!!!

[Planetwarmer]

It is going to be difficult for someone else to diagnose with the motor partially disassembled. Did you run the boat out of the water and see where the water was leaking before you took it in? If so, what was it doing that made you decide to take it to the repair shop?

I re-read all of the posts, but I really need to hear in more detail what you knew before you took it to the mechanic.

FTI the only way that reinstalling a freeze plug could create a positive pressure where there is any oil, is if there is a crack or hole joining the water and oil journals. That could be as simple as a head gasket. Just because there is a mix of water and oil, doesn't mean a definite need of engine replacement.

[xedmoc]

I know this, I purchased the boat last may...drove it on two different lakes through September...Cleaned and coverd the boat, was in my heated garage all winter. started it on April 8th, shut it down, Towed it to Lake Geneva, WI. Put it in the lake drove about a mile out and noticed smoke coming out of the starboard tip. Slowly drove it back to the ramp, trailered it and on the way home left it at the dealer. Drove the boat back slowly without incident.

Only the starboard exhaust system was hot or cooked, the other was normal. ...or not hot.

Several days later they called and said it was the starboard impeller, and the right was okay.

Said they were going to send the corsa tip in to be rebuilt.

That's really about it.

Eric



It is going to be difficult for someone else to diagnose with the motor partially disassembled. Did you run the boat out of the water and see where the water was leaking before you took it in? If so, what was it doing that made you decide to take it to the repair shop?

I re-read all of the posts, but I really need to hear in more detail what you knew before you took it to the mechanic.

FTI the only way that reinstalling a freeze plug could create a positive pressure where there is any oil, is if there is a crack or hole joining the water and oil journals. That could be as simple as a head gasket. Just because there is a mix of water and oil, doesn't mean a definite need of engine replacement.

[Planetwarmer]

:confused:If you have a small block chevy and an alpha 1 out drive, you probably only have 1 impeller, which is located in the lower part of the drive:cool:. There is no right and left side impeller that I know of.:confused: If they truly told you that the starboard impeller is ok, but the right one is shot I would have them show you on your motor what they are talking about.:confused::confused::wrench::confused: Especially since sitting in the driver's seat, the right side of the boat and motor IS the starboard side.:lightning:bonk:

They may be a very good shop:crossfing:, but before you spend any money have them show you exactly what they are doing and why:boggled:. I mean physically show you and explain to you why they need to repair that peice:yes::wrench:.

ALSO, I feel it is bad business to ask for $$$$$ before the job is done. I swear to you, you will never:doh: get your boat back if you pay upfront.:boat: If they can't repair the boat before you pay them, I would have them put the thing back together:wrench: and pay them for their time (:toiletpapwithin reason:toiletpap). Then I would take it to another shop.:convertib::boat:

The boat should have been done 2.5 weeks ago:kaioken:, and they want to be paid before the job is complete:bonk::shocking::bonk:? This is why I feel there are some red flags raised here.:sweden::canada::flag-navy:flag-mari::checkered: This smells a bit fishy :shark:to me.:):boggled::confused::confused::popcorn:

PS, I'm sure the boat needs work, I'm just saying "are these the people that should be working on your boat"?

Best of luck,
Keep us posted

[BigGrizzly]

With poodle on this one, you are not the Stimulus package to the dealer:nilly::nilly:

[chrisc2]

From PWarmer - 'If they can't repair the boat before you pay them, I would have them put the thing back together and pay them for their time (within reason). ' Well said, You must do this as soon as possible (Today?!!!). Get the boat and all its parts out of there. Make sure the tip is in the boat and or you have direct confirmation with who has it. The sooner this happens the less $$ this will cost. There are good shops out there to work with. Once you get out of there I am sure the gang can recommend a replacement local to you. This to the group - What doyou guys think would be a reasonable payoff for him to get the boat out of the yard? Est labor/hrs?? Est labor rate?? % of Labor/hrs to pay?? Hang in there Xedmoc. This WILL work out in the end.

[Just Say N20]

Things to consider.

At one point you seemed to be thinking that maybe owning a Donzi shouldn't be your thing. Problems like this happen to every type of boat. There is no relationship to these problems and the boat being a Donzi.

But, because it is a DONZI, and you have found this website, you have a resource to help guide you through this situation, that is better than just about any other boating group. I seriously doubt you could find a more knowledgable, selfless and caring group of people to hook up with.

Everyone here has "felt your pain," maybe in the exact same situation, and will do whatever they can to help you get to the "smile side" again as quickly as possible.

When advise is given, probably best to listen. I know many of these folks will respond to a pm, and give personal help.

You will get through this, and really be able to enjoy all that the DONZI experience brings.

[Planetwarmer]

I agree. These problems not only happen to Donzis, but also happen to any kind of mechanical object. It just seems to me that you have stumbled upon a shop that isn't interested or unable to take care of you the way you should be taken care of.

You live and learn.

As for $$$$ for the shop, technically they have performed a service to you (albeit slow and quite possibly bad info) so you will need to pay them something. I would find out what the standard shop labor rate is for your area from a couple of different repair facilities. Then I would ask the shop how much time they have in the boat (hours) before you tell them you are taking the boat elsewhere. Inform them that you want to take the boat as is. You don't have to tell them the truth if you feel uncomfortable doing so. You can simply tell them that you don't want to spend ANY more money on the boat or some BS like that. See if they will work you a good price since boat isn't repaired, and get the hell out of there as fast as you can. Usually you can get more done if you are nice than if you go in there pissed off and threatening. But that is certainly your choice. Just be aware they will probably try to screw the hell out of you then.

Obviously, you will want to know other shop's labor rates so you can compare the price that they are going to quote you is within reason. Keep in mind, this shop more than likely thinks you are a sucker so be prepared for some mind games. Just dont let them screw you any more than they already have and take your boat elsewhere.

Oh, Get the pipe or find out how to get it ASAP!

[DonziJon]

There's that Pesky little thing called a Mechanics Lien. They will KEEP the boat until you pay them what they want. It really doesn't matter what other shops charge. Your boat is in THIS shop. :bonk: John

[Carl C]

There's that Pesky little thing called a Mechanics Lien. They will KEEP the boat until you pay them what they want. It really doesn't matter what other shops charge. Your boat is in THIS shop. :bonk: John

Yup he will have to pay for the work that he already agreed to but maybe we can walk him through his engine issue:). This forum has been a huge help for me.

[xedmoc]

Of your time and thought on this matter...

So I dropped in on the shop on Saturday, and the mechanic spoke to me. He said that there is cracks on the outside and on the inside of the block. He then said in a big V8 like this there is a lot of heat generated and maybee that caused the cracks or it was definately due to freezing. My response was I thought this was a V6???? His his response was O'yeah it is a V6. Maybee he was just tired but that does'nt help me.

They want me to invest 2 additional hours of labor to have him take the head assembly off to get the real diagnosis.

In addition, he said the first time they ever started the boat was a few days ago. Now the people at the front office called me a month ago and said, it ran like a clock and did'nt need a tune up.

Guy's at this point I dont know what to think...I'm going to pay them for the repaired buncks, radio installs...but...

Should I pay for the gear lube, oil change, tune up, and tip replacement?

Well, gents, that's where we are at with this debacle. I'm going to ask for a detailed invoice faxed to me tomorrow, I will post it.

Looks like I need a new motor, or do I?:frown:

Thanks and Regards,

Eric:bonk:

[xedmoc]

You all have been so nice, and helpful...I think I was a little frustrated that day and was looking for support, and I got it! Thanks Everyone, Thanks Everyone...

Eric
---:)



Things to consider.

At one point you seemed to be thinking that maybe owning a Donzi shouldn't be your thing. Problems like this happen to every type of boat. There is no relationship to these problems and the boat being a Donzi.

But, because it is a DONZI, and you have found this website, you have a resource to help guide you through this situation, that is better than just about any other boating group. I seriously doubt you could find a more knowledgable, selfless and caring group of people to hook up with.

Everyone here has "felt your pain," maybe in the exact same situation, and will do whatever they can to help you get to the "smile side" again as quickly as possible.

When advise is given, probably best to listen. I know many of these folks will respond to a pm, and give personal help.

You will get through this, and really be able to enjoy all that the DONZI experience brings.

[xedmoc]

Where are you located?

Thanks Eric -

--


"If" the V6 is toast, I have a low hr take out at my shop...

[Trueser]

MP

I will be looking at this boat when I get back from AOTH. We can talk about the v6 @ cumberland..

As far as the shop just get it out of there asap. Before they do more damage.

He can ship the motor from Miami....

Looking forward to meeting you Eric.

[Planetwarmer]

There's that Pesky little thing called a Mechanics Lien. They will KEEP the boat until you pay them what they want. It really doesn't matter what other shops charge. Your boat is in THIS shop. :bonk: John

I only suggested that he gets other shop rates so that he is more informed and can put up a better fight. It would be stupid of anyone to just go into a shop that is trying to screw you and have no idea what a standard shop rate is, don't you agree?

A mechanic cannot charge whatever they want. Otherwise there would be nothing stopping all mechanics from charging 1000 dollars an hour after they got your boat or car, mechanics lien or not. I am sure that the local laws on a mechanics lien for unpaid labor are open for a reasonable interpretation from a judge. If an owner had to take a shop to court, the judge would most likely require an individual to pay the average going rate. Not whatever the shop feels they are worth, unless the boat/car owner has bound themselves to a legal contract stating otherwise.

[chrisc2]

Definitely get it out of there ASAP!!! Ask them to get all the parts back in the boat. Where is the Tip?? Pay the man and go, quick (before AOTH). BTW - Was it below freezing during the time they had the boat?

[xedmoc]

Thanks very much, be safe, and see you when you get back.

Kind Regards,

Eric

---


MP

I will be looking at this boat when I get back from AOTH. We can talk about the v6 @ cumberland..

As far as the shop just get it out of there asap. Before they do more damage.

He can ship the motor from Miami....

Looking forward to meeting you Eric.

[Planetwarmer]

Wrong. If the shops labor rate is posted as the law requires, they can charge whatever the sign says..



You are correct. That is part of the contract that I was referring to. However I didn't state that due to varying laws from state to state.

[Planetwarmer]

BTW - Was it below freezing during the time they had the boat?

That is a good point!

[xedmoc]

of contention - You know the boat has been stored in the outside parking lot of the dealership. I'm sure it has been below 32 degrees for more than one evening since April 7th.

If it froze overnight, could that cause the block to crack? It did have water in it because I had been at the lake before I dropped it off.

Very good point. Now What?

Thanks Eric

--:mad:

[Planetwarmer]

Weeeelllllll, it only takes 4 hours at 30 deg f to crack a block. The problem is proving that the block wasn't cracked before you left it in the shops possession. That will be tough to do. That would probably be a he said/she said legal battle. You may have to cut your losses and just take the boat. It is worth a try informing them that it didnt have any of the problems they described it now has when you last drove the boat. Although, I doubt that anyone will fess up to running it at the shop before it cracked.

Take this opportunity to upgrade to a small block V8. You dont have to go crazy, just a stock mercruiser carburated 350CI/260 HP. Surprisingly, you may get the same gas mileage as you did with the V6, but you will have more torque and that lovely V8 sound. I think it would take only minor modifications if any. The price between the Mercruiser V6 and V8s are nominal (considering). It's worth taking a look into. JIMO:yes:

[MOP]

Sounds like there may be a case brewing, they ran it and deemed it needed a tune up which they did along with a few other thing then mysteriously it cracked its block! Sounds like a very nice negligence suite, it may be time for a letter from a good well known local attorney!

[Trueser]

of contention - You know the boat has been stored in the outside parking lot of the dealership. I'm sure it has been below 32 degrees for more than one evening since April 7th.

If it froze overnight, could that cause the block to crack? It did have water in it because I had been at the lake before I dropped it off.

Very good point. Now What?

Thanks Eric

--:mad:

The dealer will just say that it was your responsibility. I don’t think we had a hard freeze since April 1st. My guess is the motor froze in the garage.

The best thing would be for you to get the boat and all the parts back. No matter where they are. have them stop and give you a bill to date.

Call me next week and we can take a look at it.

Send poodle a private message on his V6!

Mike

[Planetwarmer]

Or buy a V8!:hyper:

I bet a law suit would be a waste of time and money. Most of the time people just doit to make themselves feel better and try to prove some point. I wouldnt waste your time unless you have substantial proof (ie: a statement from the shop stating that the boat ran fine on a certain date prior to them stating that the block is cracked). Your situation sucks, but you can still minimize lost $$$$$$.

Good luck, and keep us posted.

[Ghost]

And I only skimmed some of the thread.

AND this may be a terrible idea--I'm really just brainstorming.

IF they are knowingly lying to you about when they ran the boat, and IF they 100% negligently allowed the block to get cracked on their watch, and IF nothing is in writing, and you are 100% in the right, don't you *potentially* have a claim against the damages they have done, which is probably greater than their claim for work they have done?

(That's a lot of ifs, but if all those things are true, and real justice suggests that they owe you money, and nothing is in writing, what stops you from hitching up and leaving with the boat, and putting the ball in their court as to whether they want to go to court with the mechanic's lien if they might end up owing you money for damages? Put another way, what stops you from putting the ball in their court to pursue you, testing the waters whether they want to risk owing you money in court?)

I would NEVER even think of this if I didn't *know* someone was 100% negligent and really owed me the damages and was deliberately screwing me. I pay promptly and in full and live up to my contractual arrangements, and would not cheat someone, not even a little. But if they outright destroyed it, and are completly lying to you, bald-faced, and you are 100% in the right, I would have no problem with the moral issue here. The only question would be with the probability of winning. If the law completely protects them, as it sounds like it may, that might never be an option. But is there any proof they ever even HAD the boat, if you just take it away? Do they have anything in writing from YOU that justifies a mechanic's lien in the first place? Have you authorized any work in writing? Would that shift the burden of proof of any arrangements ever even existing over to them? Seems like an awfully chancy course to take, and almost certainly not the right one, but just thinking. I'd probably need a lot of encouragement from talking to a lawyer before I ever considered it seriously.

Another thought would be to look into small claims court (or other court options) and approach them with your legal angle up front, BEFORE handing them any money, and see if they will let you just walk under the threat that you'll play hardball. Possession is 9/10ths of the law--I'd feel better negotiating with the boat in hand and before paying them a cent. Maybe talk to a lawyer now, and see what he thinks. If you took the boat and shoved legal papers in their face showing a claim for 10k or more in damages, would that make them think dropping their $1700 tab was a sensible way to cut their own risk? Only you can be the final judge I suppose. And as a mechanic's shop, they probably know the rules and won't be intimidated by a weak case. But who knows--apparently they can't count to 6 cylinders. The "starboard impeller" comment alone sounds like grounds for a case against them for either falsifying their credentials as a professional repair facility or knowingly attempting to defraud you. I wonder what a court would say if you actually had a bill from them claiming they "swapped out the starboard impeller." Maybe you need to get that in writing if you don't have it already.

Regardless, I would want to get the boat back ASAP.

Like I said, just thinking out loud, and it could well be a horrible idea--probably is. And it's definitely not right if they aren't 100% negligent and 100% shafting you and lying to you. If you aren't absolutely certain, it would be completely wrong to do, and please forget I ever even said it. My gut tells me it is likely NOT the right choice at all. But if you are being robbed outright, I'd at least be *thinking* about all options.

Wish you the best.

Mike

[MOP]

Taking all of the above into consideration I would still try the letter, if nothing more it may reduce your costs. Now another point was anyone with you on the run or see you running the boat? Also think about this if like said above it was cracked prior to you bringing it to him they would have noticed water coming out of it when they ran it, I would grill them a bit! Do not threaten a law suite but clearly state that you are going to seek legal counsel, I have seen my old boss back away from that on several occasions. The thought of them losing a few bucks early on is far more attractive then gambling on getting whacked later. They may get a bit heated up but also may just give in and say pay me so & so and take it out of here! I think you got screwed and need to take a shot at reducing your loses!

Phil

[DonziJon]

How do we know the block is cracked??????? Because they TOLD you it was cracked???? Unless I.... Or better yet an outside party that knows what a cracked block looks like, actually SAW the crack....why not assume they are LYING? Based on what I've read in this thread..The bass tards are LYING. How about this: The block is NOT cracked....they just want to sell you a new motor.

FWIW: If you go and REPO the boat without paying the bill to date, you will likely find the POLICE at your door when you get home with the boat. I HAVE BEEN THERE, Done that with a friends boat. It was Ugly. :( John

[gold-n-rod]

Umm, didn't the OP take the boat in because it was leaking water? If I was defending the marina, I would make sure that this point was well understood.

[gold-n-rod]

Here's another point. Why is this being discussed in a public forum? Isn't it possible that the mechanic, in his quest to help his customer find a replacement engine, might Google "Donzi" and end up here? That would not help the OP's case one single bit!!!

[xedmoc]

Thank-You for all of the suggestions and seasoned advice. More to follow soon;

XEDMOC

To all who are attenting the AOTH have fun! Perhaps I'll see you there next year. :convertib:

[xedmoc]

You may very well be correct. Will advise soon.

XEDMOC
--


How do we know the block is cracked??????? Because they TOLD you it was cracked???? Unless I.... Or better yet an outside party that knows what a cracked block looks like, actually SAW the crack....why not assume they are LYING? Based on what I've read in this thread..The bass tards are LYING. How about this: The block is NOT cracked....they just want to sell you a new motor.
FWIW: If you go and REPO the boat without paying the bill to date, you will likely find the POLICE at your door when you get home with the boat. I HAVE BEEN THERE, Done that with a friends boat. It was Ugly. :( John

[Donzi Racer]

Thank-You for all of the suggestions and seasoned advice. More to follow soon;

XEDMOC

To all who are attenting the AOTH have fun! Perhaps I'll see you there next year. :convertib:

Why wait till next year? Just hook up the boat and bring it down. These guys are similar to when you turn a Vacumn cleaner over to look underneath, a bunch of these guys get in there and start rebuilding it. hahaahah Then yo say thanks guys for the new vacumn but I was just trying to replace the belt!!!!! I have seen them dive in and do some serious repair work overnight to get a brother Donzi brother back on the water by morning.
Seriously I had the almost exact same thing happen to me a few years back in an X-18 and I came out smelling like a rose after all was said and done. Saying that, I know exactly how you are feeling right now because I was feeling the same way thru most of it. I thought I was going to be out around $5000 and it was amazing all it took was knowing a good lawyer and a small trick that ended up with a new motor plus & money back in my pocket. I still shake my head when I think about it. It sounds like something is not kosher with establishment, I would not let them put anything back together, just get the boat as it is and don't let them touch anything else. If you owe them for some of what they have done, fine, pay them. I do not think you will get the boat without paying for what they have done. I would ask them to put down in writing about the port impeller & what they say is wrong and what it needs. Also anything that would help you prove they did not know what they were doing. From what you have said they have not finished all the work they were supposed to do and you should not pay for anything not done. Some of it was ridiculous to start with. Give me a call at 256-777-0844 or emai at mishunaire@aol.com & I will be glad to help any way I can.
If Poodle has not left florida yet, just yank that Donzi to AOTH and see if Poodle can make enough room with all those coolers to bring that V-6 and those guys will yank that engine out and have poodles in with time to spare. Bring plenty of Beer, they do not charge $ by the hour but Beer by the DAY!!! Tom

[Planetwarmer]

Daaaaaang! That's service right there!!!

[xedmoc]

Tom,

Thanks so much for all your insight! Enjoy the rally!

Thanks Again,

Eric

--:anchor:


Daaaaaang! That's service right there!!!

[xedmoc]

photo the insurance company took yesterday;

Preportedly it represents the troublesome "cracked block?" to me it looks like a rusty line and does not look like anything new?

<a href="http://s226.photobucket.com/albums/dd162/xedmoc/donzi/?action=view&current=cracked.jpg[/URL]" target="_blank"><img src="[URL]http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd162/xedmoc/donzi/cracked.jpg" border="0" alt="cracked block?"></a>

What do you guys think?

XEDMOC

[MOP]

Being an old fart boat mechanic I tell you what I see, it looks like a very typical head gasket weep very common and not much to worry about!!!! I still think the guy is a bandit get the boat out of there! I mean really one day the kid tells you it is running great, next thing a few days later it is busted.
Get it over to Mike Mr. Fixall he will give you a fair shake!!!

Phil

[xedmoc]

I believe that line has been there since I purchased this boat a year ago.

xedmoc aka Eric :bonk:

[DonziJon]

I'm another Old Fart.......and dam proud of it. :smash: What I see is a Block Drain Petcock thats weeping a little bit. Not a problem. SOLUTION: Remove the drain Cock, totally, dis-assemble and clean it up on a wire wheel, or with a wire brush. It's all brass. Put it aside.

Before you screw it back in, stick "something" in the hole in the block and stir it around to dislodge any crap that WILL BE blocking the hole where the petcock was. This works best when the block is full of water. If no water comes out when you poke around in there, Hook up the flush hose....engine NOT running. Once the water "Runs Free" from the hole....flushes itself clean, replace the cleaned petcock and you are good to go. COST...ZERO. :nilly: John

[xedmoc]

Thank-You! I'm starting to think there is nothing major wrong with this engine. I'm certianly confused but I'll learn, and get over it! Just want to drive the boat, summer is here, missed AOTH, and want to tear up the lakes. Progressive insurance seems hesitant to help me and dont know quite what to think about this dealership. Perhaps Progressive insurance will step up to the plate investigate this and help me out here! Do any of you donzi.net people have Progressive marine insurance? What been your experience with them?

XEDMOC aka Eric :tongue:

[chappy]

Thank-You! I'm starting to think there is nothing major wrong with this engine. I'm certianly confused but I'll learn, and get over it! Just want to drive the boat, summer is here, missed AOTH, and want to tear up the lakes. Progressive insurance seems hesitant to help me and dont know quite what to think about this dealership. Perhaps Progressive insurance will step up to the plate investigate this and help me out here! Do any of you donzi.net people have Progressive marine insurance? What been your experience with them?

XEDMOC aka Eric :tongue:

Never had a claim, customer service has been pretty good so far.:yes:

[Carl C]

I had a nightmare experience with Progressive. I switched to All-State.

[Phil S]

Looking at the photo, and having said that you were a "mile out"....meaning she was probably just getting up to normal operating temp (if you didn't warm her up first), I tend to agree with DonziJon's and Madpoodle's opinion (post / reply #3) on this one. Their collective diagnosis is the same....either that draincock is open (Madpoodle), or it's leaking like DonziJon suggested. Sure looks that way to me too, and I am definitely no expert...but I do have that same engine and drive. Like others have said on here, there is no such thing as a "starboard impeller" on that motor / drive.

Sure looks & "sounds" to me like starboard side manifold / header started heating up, started steaming out the exhaust pipe, bilge filled from the draincock being either open or leaking, etc.

Here's what I don't know. How much ancillary damage might there be if, in fact, it did overheat the starboard side manifold. Probably depends on just how hot things got on that side. Not sure what that "burning rubber" smell could have been. Check or replace your ONLY impeller nevertheless. $18 to $24 bucks and very easy to replace yourself (no more than 30 minutes shop time labor if you pay someone).

I'd definitely follow DonziJon's and Madpoodle's advice and simply either close the dang thing (if it was left open) and / or clean it out and close it(clean it out anyway...a piece of coat hanger or wire will do) and / or replace it. Hook it up to muffs on the hose, fire it up, keeping a close eye on the motor / bilge area for any water leaks...run it until normal temp is reached....should be between 150 or 160 degrees...any higher could be internal trouble so shut it down if you see temp climbing higher. Don't ever rev it over 1500-1700 rpm on the muffs, just let it idle....but watch it closely all the while.

I hope that is all it is. If it is, you should be back on the water in no time.

Best of luck....
Phil S

[Kirbyvv]

Eric, I aggree with MOP, contact Mrfixxall on this site. He can't be too far from you and will give you the straight scoop.

[MOP]

Can't resist a little More! Manifolds being a lot thinner will crack long before the block, the weepy petcock shows it was holding water. From page #1 it all points to one of two things plugged riser which will burn the hose off and fill the bilge, or the manifold feed hose came off with will do the exact same thing nothing more! The engine is fine the marina guy is full of KRAP!

[mike o]

:yes:Is this the same place?http://www.yachttraderonline.com/listing/2008-DONZI-CLASSIC-18-93772875.... My dream boat....... without windshield.

[chrisc2]

One thing that has been recommended strongly that has not happened yet is for you to get the boat out of there. The more you prolong the process the more difficult and expensive this will be. Talking to them about stopping work is the first step. Once you get the boat to someone like MrFix you can reengage with the insurance co if needed. The relationship is between you and the shop right now..not the insurance co.

[xedmoc]

Picking up the boat tomorrow - bringing her home. Thanks for everything guys, your help means everything to me.

XEDMOC Eric -:boat:
--


One thing that has been recommended strongly that has not happened yet is for you to get the boat out of there. The more you prolong the process the more difficult and expensive this will be. Talking to them about stopping work is the first step. Once you get the boat to someone like MrFix you can reengage with the insurance co if needed. The relationship is between you and the shop right now..not the insurance co.

[chrisc2]

Way to go Eric! Do you have someone lined up to take a look at it?

[xedmoc]

From Donzi.net, When Trueser has a moment, he will take a look at it, and I'll take suggestions from anyone - The engine from Poodle sounds interesting, if I need one - I don't know. Want to run this thing in a bad way! :boat:

Thanks,

Eric

--


Way to go Eric! Do you have someone lined up to take a look at it?

[MOP]

Mike will get you on track! One of the good hands team!

[Phil S]

Hey xedmoc -

Are you back in the water yet ? How 'bout an update.....I'm curious as to what the problem turned out to be.

[Trueser]

Block is cracked for sure! Water and oil in all three cylinders on the Port side. Oil/water was full to the top of the dipstick.

Motor does turn over but was shooting oil/water out thru the plugs.

Not sure if the exhaust manifolds are good still or not. Will check soon.

Waiting on insurance guy to look at.

Wow the 16 has a very small hatch. should be fun!

Be civil the dealer is on this board.

[Donzi Racer]

So sorry Eric. Fingers crossed for it to be something that is covered by the insurance. Most of my experiences with Progressive have been positive. Hope the same for you. Still curious how it all happened. We missed you at AOTH. We are all pulling for you. Tom

[xedmoc]

look forward to working on this with you both!

Eric

--


Block is cracked for sure! Water and oil in all three cylinders on the Port side. Oil/water was full to the top of the dipstick.

Motor does turn over but was shooting oil/water out thru the plugs.

Not sure if the exhaust manifolds are good still or not. Will check soon.

Waiting on insurance guy to look at.

Wow the 16 has a very small hatch. should be fun!

Be civil the dealer is on this board.

[xedmoc]

The question is....When did this crack occur? I have my own theory...Just need to prove it, somehow...

Going forward with the swap in any case, this horse wants to RUN!

Thanks for thinking of me again!

Eric

--


So sorry Eric. Fingers crossed for it to be something that is covered by the insurance. Most of my experiences with Progressive have been positive. Hope the same for you. Still curious how it all happened. We missed you at AOTH. We are all pulling for you. Tom

[xedmoc]

Not in the water but, I'm moving positively in the right direction now! Thanks for thinking of me!

Eric aka xedmoc -

--:anchor:



Hey xedmoc -

Are you back in the water yet ? How 'bout an update.....I'm curious as to what the problem turned out to be.

[xedmoc]

n/t images attached -

[MOP]

One thing that is 100% positive the heat problem did not crack your block, you can warp heads but it would seize before the block would crack! If it had cracked over the winter as some have said how the heck did you run it in the spring, the pan would have been full of water as it is now. I stand firm that it cracked while in the dealers possession because someone forgot to drain it! You need to assemble your troops for a battle! Have a few professionals looks at it and get written determinations and go from there!

Phil

[xedmoc]

Like a freeze-up at the repair facility. That makes a LOT of sense! Thank-You.

Eric

--



One thing that is 100% positive the heat problem did not crack your block, you can warp heads but it would seize before the block would crack! If it had cracked over the winter as some have said how the heck did you run it in the spring, the pan would have been full of water as it is now. I stand firm that it cracked while in the dealers possession because someone forgot to drain it! You need to assemble your troops for a battle! Have a few professionals looks at it and get written determinations and go from there!

Phil

[MOP]

You need to clean out your PM box it is flooded!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

This is my response to your PM to me!

Hi
To me the first invoice proves your case if you decide to go after the guy for an engine, he drained and refilled the engine oil why was no water present? Yet days later the crank case was full up to the dip stick! I have spoken with Mike that is how I know about the dip stick. If I remember correctly Mike said there was water in the cylinders which means the exhaust manifolds are shot which is normal when you have a freeze they crack before the block being a thinner casting. All I can say is good luck with it no matter what you decide, one thing for sure Mike will treat you real decent.

Phil

[xedmoc]

I told you, I would send it to you so I did! You're right Mike is very cool!

Thanks Eric

--



You need to clean out your PM box it is flooded!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

This is my response to your PM to me!

Hi
To me the first invoice proves your case if you decide to go after the guy for an engine, he drained and refilled the engine oil why was no water present? Yet days later the crank case was full up to the dip stick! I have spoken with Mike that is how I know about the dip stick. If I remember correctly Mike said there was water in the cylinders which means the exhaust manifolds are shot which is normal when you have a freeze they crack before the block being a thinner casting. All I can say is good luck with it no matter what you decide, one thing for sure Mike will treat you real decent.

Phil

[Trueser]

Update.

Exhaust manifolds are cracked. Block is really cracked. Ps cooler looks ok.

Anyway still need a v6 if anyone has one.

[mrfixxall]

Update.

Exhaust manifolds are cracked. Block is really cracked. Ps cooler looks ok.

Anyway still need a v6 if anyone has one.


Mike call me!

[Trueser]

Best looking Gimbal I ever saw.

[DonziJon]

Water Water Everywhere. And THIS water has been coming and going in and out of the rotten bellows for awhile. :bonk: John

[Phil S]

wow....is the bearing rusted onto the shaft ?

[DonziJon]

wow....is the bearing rusted onto the shaft ?

You noticed that too? :nilly: John

[BigGrizzly]

UGG is all I can say, nice dewinterizing job and winterizing too:bonk::bonk:

[xedmoc]

These guys are doing a great job on this project. Here's a toast for Passion and community! Thanks Guy's! I dont know what I would have done with out you two!

The pictures of these guys taking this engine out was stunning to me to say the least! Awesome.:boat:

XEDMOC aka Eric -

[BigGrizzly]

I will tell you what you will do. Get it fixed and come to a rally.

[xedmoc]

Can't wait to go to a rally! I'm in!

Eric :pretzel:

--


I will tell you what you will do. Get it fixed and come to a rally.

[xedmoc]

I'm in Atlanta till sunday evening...We can grab a beer? :eek:

Eric (312) 218-2388

--

[xedmoc]

Bump to thread..n/t

ENH:)


I'm in Atlanta till sunday evening...We can grab a beer? :eek:

Eric (312) 218-2388

--

[BigGrizzly]

good

[MOP]

Looks like Mike had to pull the engine then beat the drive off, been there done that. Lucky it was a fresh water rig, in salt the bearing would have been a BEAR to out of the shield!

[BigGrizzly]

I just got buried in boat work and have a frienfs boat with broken steering at the dock and need to fix it. Plus I just got back on the net, Wish I had seen the message earlier, If you get back in town call 706-216-8194.

[xedmoc]

do it another time, or see you at a rally!

Regards,

Eric :wink:

--



I just got buried in boat work and have a frienfs boat with broken steering at the dock and need to fix it. Plus I just got back on the net, Wish I had seen the message earlier, If you get back in town call 706-216-8194.

[xedmoc]

Mike and Matt have really knocked this thing out of the park! A new cockpit cover, fixed the drive with a new u-joint and bellows, and now the new engine is being prepared in Michigan. Coming to Chicago...A 4.3L Vortec, and should ship to "T Marine Services" this week. I'm really starting to get excited about this! Will keep you updated!

Thanks Mike and Matt!

Eric :convertib:

--

*** When this is all done, and I'm chasing the water trails of the Team Trueser, I will give you all a report of how "the dealer", and "the insurance company" responded to this issue, it's quite interesting. *** :toiletpap

[xedmoc]

bump

[MOP]

Ok what is with the empty BUMP? Are you getting antsy?????????????????

The guys will have you burning gas real soon!!!

[xedmoc]

Jumping through yet another round of insurance stuff. Soon the guys will be able to finish the sixteen. I can't wait. Summer is ticking by...

Eric :wrench:

[xedmoc]

All -

Will have an update for you all soon. Then once the boat is back on the water, you will hear the whole story as it transpired. No holds barred, promise.

Thanks again, and Props to Team Trueser!

Eric aka XEDMOC :boat:

[xedmoc]

Thanks to Mike and Matt at Trueser Marine - More to come!
--

[Trueser]

Anyone have the oil Filer Part number that goes on a 1990 4.3 ho OMC?

[mrfixxall]

Anyone have the oil Filer Part number that goes on a 1990 4.3 ho OMC?


merc 35-883702k,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,Did you run out of grey paint?


P.S. mike,get the rust off the alternator pully and paint that too! or he will be replacing that belt real soon:)

[BUIZILLA]

you want the filer, the filler, or the filter? :wink:

the filter should be a 173233 or 502901 in OMC jargon

that's what my 1990 4.3 took

[mrfixxall]

you want the filer, the filler, or the filter? :wink:

the filter should be a 173233 or 502901 in OMC jargon

that's what my 1990 4.3 took


I was just trying to match the paint on the block:)

[Trueser]

you want the filer, the filler, or the filter? :wink:

the filter should be a 173233 or 502901 in OMC jargon

that's what my 1990 4.3 took

Filter.

502901 would be the one..


Thanks Jim..


Mike
Paint this...................

[mrfixxall]

Mike
Paint this...................


OK Will DO!:wink:

[xedmoc]

Cant wait to run this puppy! I will VERY soon!

Thanks to Matt and Mike T!

Eric
--

[Trueser]

All Done,

Motor ran great. Sounds great for a V6.

Sea Trial this week and she's ready to go.

[Trueser]

How can I load up a video?

[xedmoc]

All Done,

Motor ran great. Sounds great for a V6.

Sea Trial this week and she's ready to go.

Don Arownow is smiling somewhere now!

E
--

[19donziz29]

Eric,
Well i'm sure you've heard how great the Sea Trial went! That boat is a lot of fun. Just to let you know I put your manual tabs UP... After the test drive, I'd leave them right where I put them. We're looking forward to starting it up for you tomorrow. The bow lifts nice, the prop is right at 4900 RPM which is perfect, but it does need to be fixed up as you know. Oh and it's shining nice now :shades:
Matt

[Just Say N20]

How can I load up a video?

Upload from your computer the exact same way as you upload a picture file.

• Hit <Manage Attachments> button
• Hit <Browse> Button
• Find the file you want to upload, and hit <Open> button
• The file will show up as being uploaded

People will have to download the file to their computer to watch it using this method.

This is from a MAC series of screens, using Firefox.

--------or---------

You can upload the video to a free service like photobucket ( http://photobucket.com/ ) and then post a link to that video.


-------or---------

You can upload the video to You Tube, and post a link from You Tube.

[xedmoc]

Eric,
Well i'm sure you've heard how great the Sea Trial went! That boat is a lot of fun. Just to let you know I put your manual tabs UP... After the test drive, I'd leave them right where I put them. We're looking forward to starting it up for you tomorrow. The bow lifts nice, the prop is right at 4900 RPM which is perfect, but it does need to be fixed up as you know. Oh and it's shining nice now :shades:
Matt

Thank-You sooooo much, you guys are the best! Mike say's it'll go just over 70! Holy Smokes! Look forward to seeing you tomorrow too!

It will go far north to Iron county wisconsin on Thursday, and I'll do a photo essay of all my banzai moves! :convertib:

Best, Eric

:party:

[Just Say N20]

Mike say's it'll go just over 70! Holy Smokes!

I must have missed something about this "repair that must have turned into a build."

What exactly was done to this 4.3 V6 to get the boat running just over 70?

That is awesome! I'm told my 310 hp V8 16 Ski-Sporter runs 62. Someday, I will find out.

[xedmoc]

M&M Trueser Mojo, Definately, Mojo...

E
--



I must have missed something about this "repair that must have turned into a build."

What exactly was done to this 4.3 V6 to get the boat running just over 70?

That is awesome! I'm told my 310 hp V8 16 Ski-Sporter runs 62. Someday, I will find out.

[19donziz29]

Well maybe he said it feels like 70, since it's a 16! Unless my dad slipped a ProCharger in when I wasn't looking ;) I was so pissed when I noticed I didn't have my handheld GPS with me when I water tested. It's gotta be around 60 though! The speedo on the boat tops at 55, then there's a plastic stop at roughly 65 and it was pegging that stop. I know they aren't accurate at all. Not sure what HP the stock motor was, but the 4.3 vortec we put in is 225HP, sounds tough :eek:
Matt

[Trueser]

The Motor installed,



Michigan Motorz.com


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Holly 4160 marine carburetor - four barrel with electric choke, 600 cfm, 30cc accelerator pump, "J" tubes, etc (U.S. Coast Guard approved), one-piece flexable fuel line, flame arrestor with breather tube and pcv hookup.
Electric fuel pump kit - a low pressure 4-7 psi electric fuel pump (U.S. Coast Guard approved), delivers the right amount of fuel to the carburetor. Also includes fuel pump bracket, misc wires and oil pressure switch. Loss of oil pressure will automatically shut off the fuel pump thereby preventing gas vapors from accidental ignition and preventing possible damage to the engine.
Delco Voyager ignition kit -Voyager distributor with Electronic Spark Timing (EST), High energy ignition coil, 8mm marine spark plug wires and spark plugs, shift interrupt wire, timing tool, and other misc wires to easily connect to any existing marine engine wire harness. (U.S. Coast Guard Approved).
Also included - 14" i/o flywheel, bi-directional circulation pump, harmonic balancer, 4.5 quart marine oil pan ( approximately 5 quarts of oil required with oil filter), side mounted dip stick and tube, EZ oil drain kit, lifting eyes, one year manufacturers warranty, complete installation guide and operation manual.


Along with GLM Aluminum Manifolds.


We should see this boat @ AOTH 2010.

[Just Say N20]

Sounds like an excellent engine. Well, I haven't heard it, but it L:eek::eek:Ks like an excellent engine.

[BUIZILLA]

what a great package...

very impressed..

ported heads and a cam change away from 300hp.. :shades:

[MOP]

what a great package...

very impressed..

ported heads and a cam change away from 300hp.. :shades:

Hmmm still dying for someone to build a hot 6 banger!

[Trueser]

WHy cant I post any Video?

AVI

is there a size limit ?

[Trueser]

Page cannot be displayed.

I give up.

[xedmoc]

Gents,

I'm going to meet Trueser Marine tonight to pick up the 16! Can't wait but have a loooooong day of work ahead of me before I go. Then tomorrow the boat will go 450 miles north and be in the water on Friday morning, earrrrrrrrly! I will do a complete photo-essay of this experience for you all to see.

Thank-You ALL on this board for all of your help on this situation, what a show of community! I will definately attend AOTH 2010, hopefully I can follow Team Trueser Marine down to AOTH.

I think they are going to help me winterize this badboy and unwinterize it before AOTH!

In the photo essay I will include a chronological set of pictures from when this all began to how it was finished for all to see.

Another part is the story of the dealerhip, insurance companies, lawyers, hitmen, marine surveyors, judges, magistrates, lion tamers, you get the point...In the end I was out-of -pocket for this expense but it is non-the-less an interesting story - will follow after Labor Day.

Thanks Again All, and Trueser Marine, you guy's "Rock The Dock!"

Eric :boat:
--




The Motor installed,




Michigan Motorz.com


This BRAND NEW 2009 4.3L Vortec SILVER package is great for those that need a little more than just a base engine or long block but yet still don't quite need a complete engine package. This package will fit, bolt in, and work in nearly all 4.3L marine applications from 1987-2008 with little to no modifications. If you have an existing Mercruiser Alpha One, Volvo Penta, OMC, or any other outdrive or inboard transmission, NO modifications or gear ratio changes are required when installing this 4.3L Vortec engine package. This 4.3L silver package is rated at 225 hp @ 4800 RPM at the crank.


2009 4.3L Vortec marine engine -Cast iron block, teflon coated pistons, high flow Vortec cylinder heads with roller rockers, high performance GM marine roller cam shaft with roller valve lifters. These are just a few of the features that add up to more horsepower, greater low end torque, excellent durability, and longevity. All marine engine manufacturers (Mercruiser, Volvo Penta, Marine Power, PCM, etc)use this exact 4.3L Vortec engine because of its excellent performance and proven durability.
Four barrel intake manifold -this is cast iron intake manifold is a genuine GM Marine part and made specifically for marine applications. Michigan Motorz uses this 4 barrel intake manifold for its durable design and 15hp increase over 2 barrel intake manifolds. It is made for fresh water and the harshest salt water environments.
Holly 4160 marine carburetor - four barrel with electric choke, 600 cfm, 30cc accelerator pump, "J" tubes, etc (U.S. Coast Guard approved), one-piece flexable fuel line, flame arrestor with breather tube and pcv hookup.
Electric fuel pump kit - a low pressure 4-7 psi electric fuel pump (U.S. Coast Guard approved), delivers the right amount of fuel to the carburetor. Also includes fuel pump bracket, misc wires and oil pressure switch. Loss of oil pressure will automatically shut off the fuel pump thereby preventing gas vapors from accidental ignition and preventing possible damage to the engine.
Delco Voyager ignition kit -Voyager distributor with Electronic Spark Timing (EST), High energy ignition coil, 8mm marine spark plug wires and spark plugs, shift interrupt wire, timing tool, and other misc wires to easily connect to any existing marine engine wire harness. (U.S. Coast Guard Approved).
Also included - 14" i/o flywheel, bi-directional circulation pump, harmonic balancer, 4.5 quart marine oil pan ( approximately 5 quarts of oil required with oil filter), side mounted dip stick and tube, EZ oil drain kit, lifting eyes, one year manufacturers warranty, complete installation guide and operation manual.

Along with GLM Aluminum Manifolds.



We should see this boat @ AOTH 2010.

[xedmoc]

First I'll post some videos of how the boat is now! and the great job Truser Marine did on this boat! It runs like a dream! Over the next few days, I'll tell you the story that began in April -
link to all the videos;

http://s926.photobucket.com/albums/ad108/donzi16sweet/

It appears I cant post html markup so check out the above!

More to follow, shortly -

xedmoc aka Eric

--

[xedmoc]

Damn this thing runs smooth! Shot by some people we passed on a pontoon boat! The funny thing is to listen what the lady say's, All hell is breaking loose! Direct upload on this one! Let's give it a go! This one dedicated to Matt and Mike T! :convertib:

XEDMOC

[xedmoc]

http://s926.photobucket.com/albums/ad108/donzi16sweet/?action=view&current=IMG_1673.flv

[xedmoc]

in one post;

http://s926.photobucket.com/albums/ad108/donzi16sweet/?action=view&current=IMG_1673.flv

http://s926.photobucket.com/albums/ad108/donzi16sweet/?action=view&current=IMG_0411.flv

http://s926.photobucket.com/albums/ad108/donzi16sweet/?action=view&current=IMG_0425.flv

http://s926.photobucket.com/albums/ad108/donzi16sweet/?action=view&current=IMG_0426.flv

http://s926.photobucket.com/albums/ad108/donzi16sweet/?action=view&current=IMG_0427.flv

http://s926.photobucket.com/albums/ad108/donzi16sweet/?action=view&current=IMG_0428.flv

http://s926.photobucket.com/albums/ad108/donzi16sweet/?action=view&current=IMG_0429.flv

http://s926.photobucket.com/albums/ad108/donzi16sweet/?action=view&current=IMG_0430.flv

http://s926.photobucket.com/albums/ad108/donzi16sweet/?action=view&current=IMG_0431.flv

http://s926.photobucket.com/albums/ad108/donzi16sweet/?action=view&current=IMG_0432.flv

Thanks Poodle, this should make it easier for one to watch all the videos in succession -

Thanks,

Eric

[19donziz29]

I want to see passes at 5,000 RPM's! With that boat barely in the water... How do you like the position of the manual tabs now? I hope the boat worked out for ya up there.

[xedmoc]

Going to be using the boat this weekend, and will try the 5000 program! The tabs are great, and the boat does truly ride nice now!

Thanks Again,

...and I'll see you and Mike soon!

Eric

--


I want to see passes at 5,000 RPM's! With that boat barely in the water... How do you like the position of the manual tabs now? I hope the boat worked out for ya up there.

[xedmoc]

Will take a few pic's! Stay with this guy's I have a mind blowing story about the details that went into this situation - Have to wait till November 13 to reveal the details! When it comes you'll find this VERY interesting!

Working with Trueser helped keep this situation in perspective! Thanks again Mike and Matt!

XEDMOC

(Now a paid member! A great site!) Thanks all of you for your help and comments!
E

[Trueser]

Latest on the Sweet 16

The Cobra drive had a bunch of water in it when we went to winterize it. To remove the top and bottom screws were a chore. We flushed the drive and filled it with regular oil. The drive sat for a week with no visible oil leaks. When we ran it on the hose the drive ended up with water again. Extremely milky!!!!!

I split the drive and couldn’t find any visible cracks.

At this point Eric is in the market for a replacement drive 4.3 or somewhere that has the ability to rebuild this one.

Has any one ever had a problem with the drive freezing?

Or possibly a Alpha 1 Gen 2.

[BUIZILLA]

take the water pump apart and see if there is a pin hole/erosion hole in the back of the pump cavity behind the plate....

[xedmoc]

..interesting. Should we rebuild the Cobra or install a new Mercury Alpha Gen II, I have no clue?

Eric aka xedmoc

--

[Planetwarmer]

How-a-bout an Alpha SS.

[Trueser]

Will look at it this week.

[MOP]

You need and impact driver for the screws, makes removal easy and a light tap going back in insures no leakage. The likely leaks on this drive are from the prop shaft or the water pump shaft seal. More common is the pump shaft seal, either way I would change both!

Phil

[Trueser]

You need and impact driver for the screws, makes removal easy and a light tap going back in insures no leakage. The likely leaks on this drive are from the prop shaft or the water pump shaft seal. More common is the pump shaft seal, either way I would change both!

Phil

Just got one the other day. Havent tried it yet. I still think the drive has some freeze damage.

Will inspect the pump soon.

[MOP]

Just got one the other day. Havent tried it yet. I still think the drive has some freeze damage.

Will inspect the pump soon.

Mike fair warning! On the port side of the drive under the Cobra sticker there is a bolt "DO NOT REMOVE IT" it was for casting purposes only and a horror to get back in place after the backer falls off! Get you youngin to pressure/vacuum check it that will turn the leak up real fast.

[Trueser]

I have one, Thanks

[xedmoc]

Next week I will look in to resealing that drive.

Happy Holidays to you all!

XEDMOC aka Eric

***Anyone going to the Miami Boat Show in Feb? I will be there - ***

--

[BigGrizzly]

Look in the events and gatherings.

[xedmoc]

I'm here, I've been a lurker lately, watching, scheming, formulating a plan...nah, it's just winter and the boat is stored - gonna call "T" this week to see what's up! Miami boat show soon.

XEDMOC aka Eric

--

[MOP]

On the port side of all Cobra drives there is a screw just ahead of the Cobra sticker, the screw is there to drain the water port. If it did indeed freeze there is an excellent chance the the housing cracked and that crack is not visible, it is repairable by sleeving the water port. There is no kit! But I know how.