PDA

View Full Version : Transom mounting



CJmike
04-10-2009, 10:12 AM
I have noticed several pics like this one with people mounting things on the interior of transom. I am thinking about doing this but I am nervous as I have never done this kind of work. What are you guys doing to mount these things.

http://www.donzi.net/forums/album.php?albumid=46&pictureid=487

CJmike
04-10-2009, 10:15 AM
Are you through bolting it to the outside?
Are you mounting with lag screws?
Are you drilling the holes and then fiberglass epoxing the edges?
Please enlighten a newby.

Carl C
04-10-2009, 10:16 AM
I'd like to know too since I'll be relocating a few things soon. Also, without hi-jacking, would like to know what material was used to mirror the hatch in those album pics.

gcarter
04-10-2009, 10:49 AM
Here's a picture of my old Minx w/some stuff mounted on the port side, a couple of pumps if I remember.
Anyway, it's very simple to use some 1/4-20 UNC countersunk SST screws (phillips recess) with SST finish washers under them. You don't have to smear 5200 all over them either. Just a dab under the screw head where it enters the transom glass.
Same thing applies to the seat back.
Just mount your stuff to the inside and secure w/some SST Nylok nuts.
Couldn't be easier.

http://www.donzi.net/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=24272&d=1159816499

widowmaker
04-10-2009, 11:00 AM
I'd like to know too since I'll be relocating a few things soon. Also, without hi-jacking, would like to know what material was used to mirror the hatch in those album pics.

Carl,
I used a thin plastic mirror product that was available from a local glass shop. I made a paper template from the hatch and the supplier cut the material to match the template. I attached it to the hatch with four strips of adhesive backed 2" heavy duty velcro. I found that the engine vibration caused the velcro to attach more securely. Trust me, it will not fall off.

CJmike
04-10-2009, 11:01 AM
5200?

BlownCrewCab
04-10-2009, 11:19 AM
5200 is a 3M marine adhesive, it's for putting things together that you NEVER want to take apart.

Air 22
04-10-2009, 04:53 PM
5200 is a 3M marine adhesive, it's for putting things together that you NEVER want to take apart.

Also waterproof..:biggrin.: and good stuff to use after drilling holes b4 the screws are installed. Its a good idea to use a marine sealant in any holes use drill...water will find its way into those holes without it..

Conquistador_del_mar
04-11-2009, 07:49 PM
I have noticed several pics like this one with people mounting things on the interior of transom. I am thinking about doing this but I am nervous as I have never done this kind of work. What are you guys doing to mount these things.

http://www.donzi.net/forums/album.php?albumid=46&pictureid=487

You can fiberglass a mounting piece to the transom by beveling the edge before glassing it where you want to mount it. Just cut a piece of 3/4" wood to the shape of the hardware you are going to mount, apply a fiberglass sheet of that shape to the transom, and then glass it over with a sheet large enough to cover the piece of wood by at least 1" after the initial glass has hardened. If you bevel the edges, it both looks better and the overlay sheet of fiberglass will lay down on the bends it must make. You can hold the wood piece in place with something as simple as duct tape until it hardens, and then you can apply the overlay sheet. When you mount the hardware, just use a self tapping screw or lag bolt that will not go into the new mounting block by any more than 3/4" by using a pilot hole drilled with a piece of tape 3/4" up the drill shank. This way you do not have to drill through the transom to mount anything on the inside. If you look carefully at the picture you linked, you can see the mounting blocks that were glassed in place. Bill

CHACHI
04-11-2009, 08:13 PM
Couldn't you coat the "block of wood" with epoxy and when dry butter the back with thicken epoxy and glue it in that way, sans the 'glass?

Ken

Conquistador_del_mar
04-12-2009, 01:19 AM
Couldn't you coat the "block of wood" with epoxy and then dry butter the back with thicken epoxy and glue it in that way, sans the 'glass?

Ken

Ken,
You could do it that way, but the chances of it letting go would be much greater over time - especially if water found its way to the back side of the wood mounting block. I have mounted heavy things like outdrive trim pumps using the method I described with no failures, and it is quite honestly not much more effort to do the glass work. Just my two cents, Bill

CHACHI
04-12-2009, 06:20 AM
Bill, while I appreciate the extra strength of the glass, I was thinking of mounting a few blocks for the wiring harness. Not a heavy piece like a trim pump.

Ken

Carl C
04-12-2009, 07:31 AM
Carl,
I used a thin plastic mirror product that was available from a local glass shop. I made a paper template from the hatch and the supplier cut the material to match the template. I attached it to the hatch with four strips of adhesive backed 2" heavy duty velcro. I found that the engine vibration caused the velcro to attach more securely. Trust me, it will not fall off.

Thanks, I will look for that material.

CJmike, I plan to relocate my drive oil reservoir to the inside transom surface using SS wood screws and sealant. I would think that would be sufficient for a small item.

BigGrizzly
04-12-2009, 07:54 AM
it is subjective on choice

MOP
04-12-2009, 09:12 AM
For those of you that hate the look of all the extra holes you can mount wood block or even big sections inside, I have glassed blocks in and also have used 5200. glues are sloppy care must be taken so it does not run down the transom, how I keep 5200 in check is to mark the area then apply florist putty just outside the marks. I apply a thin coat to the transom and a reasonable not heavy coat to the block, I put it in place then run my finger over the florist putty to push it against the block trapping the 5200 in place saves a fair amount of:cussball: Allow to dry for at the very least FIVE days before removing the putty, a little rubbing with a rag will remove any putty residue. To get very reliable holding power strong enough to hold heavy items you need two layers of 3/4" plywood, using two layers allows you to use 1-1/4" SS lags. Believe me that will hold quite a bit more then you would think. I do prefer glassed blocks they look like part of the boat, glued block no matter how neat look more like what they are ADD ON's.

Phil

Air 22
04-12-2009, 09:59 AM
CJ...here is a pic of my Trim Tab Pump & bracket newly mounted on glassed over marine grade plywood. After the glass work was done..gelcoat followed by IMRON paint white was sprayed in the entire eng compartment for a complete easy to maintain finish.:pimp:

IMO using fiberglass/wood is the cleanest, strongest and most reliable solution.:)