Trailer brakes

[txtaz]

Has anyone added brakes to their trailer? If so did you use aftermarket or OEM? Bump or electric?

I'm looking to add brakes for a 22c trailer.

Thanks.

[Barry Eller]

Dan, (p729lws) recently had brakes installed on his Pantera trailer. Shoot him a PM.

My Performance trailer (new in 2005) came with SS rotors and calipers. They are surge activated. I'm thinking of installing a back-up switch to eliminate my getting out and putting a pin in the unit to be able to "back up", as in backing to the launch ramp.

[BUIZILLA]

Kodiak.... *most* people go with SS calipers and plated rotors.. get the HD actuator

watch out for the TDE Made in China hubs that are machined off center... :eek:

YOMV

[VetteLT193]

I've looked a bunch. I don't usually dip in to salt so I was looking at a pretty standard Kodiak kit. I found a single axle kit for $400 including the new tongue and everything else you need.

I haven't done it because it's just one more thing I have to deal with.

The $400 price is bottom of the barrel. The top end Stainless electric over hydraulic 4 wheel disk kit is in the $2500 area. I don't think I need that considering I do just fine without brakes at all... I'd just like a little extra help in one of those "Oh crap" situations.

[txtaz]

Thanks guys. I'm checking on Kodiac now.

Barry, I did notice some surge kits have a backup solenoid. You might check for one.

[mattyboy]

I thought Texas was flat.:rlol:

[VetteLT193]

I don't think Texas has the all axle requirement like Fl. does. I remember the Texas law making a lot more sense than FL law does because I think it has a higher weight rating but also has a stipulation for % of gross vehicle weight.

So, a Geo Metro towing a jet boat might need trailer brakes but a F250 towing a 22 classic may not.

[txtaz]

Keep in mind, you are required to have brakes on all axles Wes....

Rut Ro Raggy...I'll check into that.

Off the cuff though it doesn't make sense to me since there is not a requirement for brakes for this weight in Texas. I'm just being cautious and safe so they are going to make me be more safe when there is no requirement in the first place?

That begs some questions tho. Do you have to have brakes in FL for a 22c? And if so, will I catch problems pulling the trailer out of FL?

Thanks,

[BUIZILLA]

helpfull info...

Kodiak Trailer Components - Kodiak Offers Two Types of Rotors and Disc Brakes: (http://www.kodiaktrailer.com/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=13&Itemid=30)

Kodiak Trailer Components (http://www.kodiaktrailer.com/index.php?option=com_productbook&func=viewcategory&Itemid=51&catid=1)

[BigGrizzly]

Well I re did the breaks on the Criterion two years ago with Kodiak all stainless brakes . Just before I left for Lake George. My wife noticed the difference befor we were 5 miles from home, and that is a passenger. I did breaks them in befor the trip. I did install them myself. They are surge brakes. They are expensive but well worth it. I won't go into the story here but trust me they saved my but. I got rid of the Tie Down disks because of performance and lack of support and arrogance when calling Tie Down. They blamed it on everything from bearing buddies to bearings. I told them I used all their stuff. thden thew told me I installed them wrong. Then they trashed everybody else s brakes. I then went to the trailer store and without telling them who, I told the story. The guy behind the counter said you talked to Tie Down didn't you. He told me they treated them the same way, they don't deal with them anymore. I ordered Kodiak that evening from one of their distributors. I would do this again in a heart beat. Best part is the pade are normal car parts. Kodiak even gives you the part numbers.

[gcarter]

My '02 Expedition didn't have the 5 pin plug reqd. for the back-up solenoid, so I bought a 5 pin plug and wired the solenoid into the driver's side back/reverse light. That part was easy.
What was a little bit harder (time consuming) was to file out the retaining bracket welded to the body of the Expedition to a larger slot to accept the 5 pin receptacle.
Otherwise it's a very easy conversion.

[roadtrip se]

I really like the new system on the Manning under the Formula. Complete and total control of about 11K of beast
on a fifteen degree grade. The trailer stops the truck, if you want it to.

Overkill for a Classic? Probably yes. Considering it any way as a retrofit on the MYCO under the 22? Yep.

Same Kodiak system on the wheels, but with variable power that you control from the cab. You pull the trailer so shouldn't you decide when to brake, instead of some clunky surge system? Answer? Yes.

Did I mention the complete control?

[BigGrizzly]

George, When we bough ours new it had the kit in the jack compartment. Ours came with the Ford trailer package. Funny they did not plug in the two relays, I almost went out and bough them then remembered the package with the gloves with the instructions. I opened the instructions and out popped the relays. Mine is an Eddie B version with the 5.4 in it.

[BigGrizzly]

I would love to attach a exectro hydraulic system to mine, maybe when I get a little ahead, Maybe, but the next $$$ go to Barbara, its her turn.

[zelatore]

I really like the new system on the Manning under the Formula. Complete and total control of about 11K of beast
on a fifteen degree grade. The trailer stops the truck, if you want it to.
Overkill for a Classic? Probably yes. Considering it any way as a retrofit on the MYCO under the 22? Yep.
Same Kodiak system on the wheels, but with variable power that you control from the cab. You pull the trailer so shouldn't you decide when to brake, instead of some clunky surge system? Answer? Yes.
Did I mention the complete control?

I used to use all electric brakes with an in-cab controller with my race cars. After getting used to that control (adjustable threshold/max power/manual application) I've been towing nothing but surge brakes on everything from my 22 to the 30' box trailers we have for work or the 26-28' boats I occasionally move around here. The surge brakes are fine for the Donzi, but man do I miss the control when towing the big stuff. Especially when I got the loading a bit off on one of the big box trailers and got it swaying on the highway. With my old controller I could have just reached down and applied a little trailer brake and brought everything under control in such a non-event I probably wouldn't even have remembered it. Without, it was a white knuckle, ride-it-out situation followed by stopping on the shoulder and hurriedly re-balancing the the trailer load........I didn't want to do that again! :eek:

[handfulz28]

What year is the trailer? WOn't that dictate a lot as far as compliance with the law?

My first race car trailer was a 7k capacity that had electric drums on the front axle only. With a 3600lb car plus another 500lbs + of gear on top of a 1500lb trailer, that setup worked perfectly fine.

My Formula 311 rode on a triple axle trailer with Tie Down disc brakes on the first two axles...surge activated. My first surge trailer and I didn't like the surge compared to the electric. BUT, it stopped just fine.

"if it were me"....I'd go Electric Over Hydraulic on the front axle with Kodiak's system. It's probably more than double the cost due to the EOH system, but it is so worth the premium. No clunking surge coupler, total control over the brakes. If it will rarely see salt then you probably don't need stainless. The rotors can be plated and the calipers will be aluminum. And like MP says, the pads themselves are still iron/steel. A good coat of corrosion guard will make a huge difference.

[mrfixxall]

Tx, make sure your axles have the 4 bolt flange welded to the axle to support the caliper brackets.. Also if your ordering the disc brake set up ive seen alot of mfr run a solid brake line to the calipers..Calipers dont work well with solid brake lines and they need to move around or your brakes are going to over heat and ware out fast,my fix was to add a high pressure rubber brake line in line with the caliper line at the caliper..

[VetteLT193]

Rut Ro Raggy...I'll check into that.
Off the cuff though it doesn't make sense to me since there is not a requirement for brakes for this weight in Texas. I'm just being cautious and safe so they are going to make me be more safe when there is no requirement in the first place?

That begs some questions tho. Do you have to have brakes in FL for a 22c? And if so, will I catch problems pulling the trailer out of FL?
Thanks,

In FL you have to have brakes on all wheels of the trailer if the Gross weight is greater than 3000 lbs. So, 22 classic is for sure in that category.

[txtaz]

The trailer is a 2000 Float On. I don't take possession of it till next week or so. George says he will help with the install once we pick up the boat and there is a trailer shop close by there in Leesburg. So I'm sure we can make it work.

Thanks Griz, I was looking at Tie Down also. Now I'll go with the Kodiak's system. Now I just need to find a complete kit for two axle. Poodle was right, need brakes for both.

AND leave it to trip to go overboard. Geeessshhh.

Thanks again everyone.

[VetteLT193]

if you find a kit for dual axle will you post it?

I have found the single axle kit from Tie Down and Kodiak but nothing complete for 2 axles with the exception of the super high end Kodiak electric over hydraulic which I can't afford ($2500)

[roadtrip se]

AND leave it to trip to go overboard. Geeessshhh.
Thanks again everyone.

Overboard? Remind me to tell you the story of my off-road adventure with a dually and a fountain behind it, utilizing a surge brake trailer next time I see you. Might have been completely averted had I had the braking system under it that is under the Formula. I wish I knew then what I know now.

If you have to install a braking system any way, why not do it with the best components from the start?

Oh I get it, if you put together a bullet-proof tow rig, then you might have to bring it to the Awakening and about 200 duckies get a Homecoming! Got it, we need excuses....

[txtaz]

Oh I get it, if you put together a bullet-proof tow rig, then you might have to bring it to the Awakening and about 200 duckies get a Homecoming! Got it, we need excuses....

Hymmm, reminds me of a commercial.

Shipping fees - $1031
New Brakes - $1000
Import Broker - $250
Customs Fees - $125

RT having to wait to get even - PRICELESS

[handfulz28]

Hmmm....I know every dollar counts these days....but couldn't "someone" around here help you put that boat on a new Continental and save a few headaches?

[txtaz]

Do you really think I need stainless calipers for here, fresh water only?

Now Florida or on the coast I would understand.

[txtaz]

Actually it is around $800. If you can get a sst setup for 1000, let me know.

Thanks

[mrfixxall]

Hey tx,

If you need the brakes for your trailer i can get you a deal on them.

heres the link to where i get them from..

http://www.redneck-trailer.com/2009/B/B35-B38.pdf

http://www.redneck-trailer.com/2009/B.htm

And heres another one i get deals from

http://www.rigidhitch.com/Default.aspx?page=category%20search%20results&CatList=6289&Parent=77&tree=59*TRAILER+BRAKING*0@@77*DISC+BRAKES*6289@@

let me know if i can assist..

[BigGrizzly]

I got the all SS Kodiak brakes and for both Axles. With brakes with a trailer there is no such thing as overboard when some YOYO pulls in front of you. Trust me on this one. You could have a Donzi in your trunk and you in the YOYO's trunk

[mjw930]

I've looked a bunch. I don't usually dip in to salt so I was looking at a pretty standard Kodiak kit. I found a single axle kit for $400 including the new tongue and everything else you need.
I haven't done it because it's just one more thing I have to deal with.
The $400 price is bottom of the barrel. The top end Stainless electric over hydraulic 4 wheel disk kit is in the $2500 area. I don't think I need that considering I do just fine without brakes at all... I'd just like a little extra help in one of those "Oh crap" situations.

You need to reprice that. An electric over hydraulic only changes the surge master cylinder with an electric one. It should be about $600 additional.

This is THE unit to use.

http://www.carlislebrake.com/trailer_brake_actuators.php#menu0
http://www.carlisleinternetsales.com/

http://cart.shoppingtechnology.com/secure/carlisleinternet/images/hydrastar_sm.jpgthumb.jpg

[txtaz]

I've looked a bunch. I don't usually dip in to salt so I was looking at a pretty standard Kodiak kit. I found a single axle kit for $400 including the new tongue and everything else you need.


Vette, Where did you find the kit? Have a link?

I still haven't decided on SS or not. If I need them, so be it. I live in San Antonio with low humidity and the brakes will never go in salt water. So I don't see the point. Maybe someone can explain.

MrFixall, Thanks for the offer. I would really like a kit since this will be my first trailer brake install. I looked at the links and it looks like they were parts only. I can make a pretty good guess at what I need but I need to have everything staged and ready at Georges for when I pick up the boat. Since there is a trailer shop close by in Leesburg, we can pick up the small things and get lines cut. More than that could leave me stranded or paying overnight charges for parts.

Also should I get a single or dual actuator?


Thanks again for all the help.

[BigGrizzly]

930, what you missed in Vette''s statement was ALL STAINLESS over electro hydraulic brakes. Maybe a tad high. My set of four breaks two axels that were disks and calipers that slide onto hubs were $1200 two years ago with no master tongue cylinder. the hub brake combo is more expensive. They say it is better, but I had new spare hubs, so I went that way. this way if I needed to replace the disk It is easy and cheaper. Since most autos do it this way I figured go for it. There is a significant difference in price between the two. I went with the SS for several reasons 1) My trailer sits out side when the boat is not on it, which is 8 months a year. Disks tend to rust even the cad covered ones after good amount of use. Now when I tow its is a minimum of 3 hours to 20 hours straight. When I dump in salt I don't have time to clean until I get home. then It gets dumped into the lake and then cleaned without the boat on it. This did prove too much for the Tie Down. I put up with that for 6 years and replacing the pads every 2,000 miles because of uneven wear. When the attitude and the finger pointing and bad rotors ( scored many times) hit I decided to give it up and get the best. Two years down the road and 9,000 miles with no issues I dean it was the right choice. Now there is the option of the FBP company, which are good too. Just to stir the pot I have a friend who has all electric breaks and he loves them. He does not so much salt stuff, if any at all. He is however a maintenance freak. You know the guy he cleans a wrench off as soon as he puts it down and all the wrenches are set up in line when he starts the job.

[mrfixxall]

Vette, Where did you find the kit? Have a link?
I still haven't decided on SS or not. If I need them, so be it. I live in San Antonio with low humidity and the brakes will never go in salt water. So I don't see the point. Maybe someone can explain.
MrFixall, Thanks for the offer. I would really like a kit since this will be my first trailer brake install. I looked at the links and it looks like they were parts only. I can make a pretty good guess at what I need but I need to have everything staged and ready at Georges for when I pick up the boat. Since there is a trailer shop close by in Leesburg, we can pick up the small things and get lines cut. More than that could leave me stranded or paying overnight charges for parts.
Also should I get a single or dual actuator?
Thanks again for all the help.


no problen, single acuator will work fine.dual acuator is for the big stuff like 8000k or more,just make sure the fitting on the master of the acuator is fully open and their isnt a small pin hole in it,it will make the disc brakes stick.

[VetteLT193]

half way down the page below the video...

http://www.trailerpart.com/kodiak.htm

this is the super basic non stainless kit. As far as stainless goes, stuff rusts no matter where you live. If you are really good about maintenance it's probably fine without but the last thing you want is your brake system to stop you from going out in the boat... it's a cost benefit that you'll have to decide on.

MJ: the "Ultimate" kit I was talking about for $2500 is all stainless (calipers, rotors, etc.) and it comes with everything needed down to the lines... it isn't comparable to the 2 wheel basic kit at all because that one about doubles when you upgrade to stainless; then about doubles again when you add the 2nd axle. http://www.southwestwheel.com/store/p-99-kkultimate310.aspx