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f_inscreenname
03-28-2009, 09:44 PM
Got this boat and even though in the pictures it has a little tree starting to grow out of the deck (pictures are from when I brought it home) it’s only about a week from being ready to paint if spring would ever show up. And this is my most weakest area in this stuff.
The plan is to go with the original colors. Yellow sides, white deck and red stripes. I’m even going to make a yellow rug with a red stripe for the cockpit. The last time I painted a boat I used the Interlux Brightside paint. The draw back of this stuff is it takes for ever to dry. I shot the Nova with it and then let it sit for 6 months. The first time the front roller hit it, it pushed the paint.
So I guess I’m looking for paint. Something I can spray reasonably easy with good results. Something that will not cost an arm and a leg also. The positive thing about the Brightside was it’s cost and it has a nice look for at least 6 years with a few coats of wax adding a couple more years to it.
The next thing, the stripe. It’s looks like they put down the red and then taped up what they wanted to keep and then shot the rest of the deck white. How do you actually do it?
Spray red, couple coats, tape up what you want to keep, spray white, couple coats, pull tape? Wouldn’t that leave a lip on the paint?
http://triton.imageshack.us/Himg18/scaled.php?server=18&filename=78482492.jpg&xsize=640&ysize=480

Planetwarmer
03-29-2009, 03:36 AM
Krylon! Don't pay attention to me, I have a hell of a lot 2 many!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!!!:beer:

BlownCrewCab
03-29-2009, 08:31 AM
I'm a fan of Imron (only because I have sprayed 100's of gallons of it) it's tough sh*t, but pricey$$$$. most 1 part enamels will push off the way you described. 2 part is the way to go.

Now, if you don't want a lip where your colors connect then you have to tape & Paint each one seperatly, the way they did it was for speed, they sprayed a 12" wide strip and only used 3" of it, this saved them taping the hull sides one time, where to make it flush you'd have to tape twice.

hot shot
03-29-2009, 10:02 AM
Use base coat clear coat... stpay the white then mask of the strip using fine line mashing tape... cover the rest of the boat then your outer strips covering all the boat except the stripes then clean coat... that will work down to the water line.... gel coat is best for bottoms especially if its gonna be left in the water... if not single stage acrylic urethane will do just fine... Mick

BigGrizzly
03-29-2009, 10:15 AM
I used the Interlux 2 part poly and it cured over night the problem is it is hard as a rock and compound and sanding the orange peel was a horror. The picture in my avatar is the Corsican done with it. I also did the cabin top on my dads boat with a fine nap roller and it flatenerd out with no orange peal or roller marks. It looked like heck, I went into the cabin to get a ice tea and when I came back it was soothe as glass. My dad said see I told you. That cabin top was there for 20 years be for we got rid of it, after Dad passed away.

mike o
03-29-2009, 11:49 AM
Which one of these 2 part paints can you leave in the water indefinitely?

BlownCrewCab
03-29-2009, 05:32 PM
Which one of these 2 part paints can you leave in the water indefinitely?


Even Gelcoat is going to fail if left in the water indefinately.

hot shot
03-30-2009, 08:13 AM
You MUST use a bottom paintin order to do that... there are many types and grades... check with your local boat store... but its ugly..

f_inscreenname
03-30-2009, 08:19 PM
Alright back to me.:kingme:

When you tape up something, after spraying how long do you leave the tape on?

Conquistador_del_mar
03-30-2009, 08:40 PM
Alright back to me.:kingme:

When you tape up something, after spraying how long do you leave the tape on?

Overnight is fine - next day. Don't leave it on too long or it will harden to where you can have it "break" the edge of the paint line where it might be a little heavy up against the tape line. Hope this helps. Bill

f_inscreenname
03-30-2009, 09:24 PM
Sealers, primer or just over glass/ old paint (well sanded of course).

Planetwarmer
03-30-2009, 09:34 PM
Some people use a heat gun (carefully) or a hair dryer to help remove the tape. This will soften the paint up a bit and make a clean line. I have never tried this method on a boat.

IMO, it is best to spray the light color 1st. I know that most shops will spray the stripe color 1st then tape, but in a red/white situation you will have to put so many layers of white to cover the red you will have terrible masking lines. In this case, you can just paint the deck white then tape and spray red. Use some sand paper with very light pressure and feather the red down to the white. You will have virtually no raised masking lines. Be careful to not sand the red too thin, you will end up having the edges of the stripe pink. You will need to buff after color sanding to give it that beautiful shine.

Use high quality tape. This will help reduce the rough masking edges. When I apply tape, I use some pressure with my finger so there is no bubbles or gaps on the edges of the tape. I also run my finger back over the tape just before spraying the next color.

gcarter
03-30-2009, 09:37 PM
This was the bow deck stripe on the Minx.
It was color matched RM UNO-HD, a BASF product. It's a very high end three part, acrylic polyurethane automotive paint. The sides and transom were painted with the same material. It frequently sat in both salt and fresh water up to three days at a time w/o any blistering.
I did a very minimal amout of finish on this paint. I think I wet sanded it w/800 followed by 1200 and then a 3M glaze on a foam pad.
It was a little pricey, but no where near as pricey as some of the yacht paints already mentioned.:yes:

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