My old pick-up...not running well. Question?

[Lenny]

I have an old '92 Chevy 1500 P/U. It is the 350 Fuel Injection thingy. Anyways, the "electric pump" has carried on making noise for a LOOONNNGG time now. When the key is turned off it (the fuel pump) would run for another 10-15 seconds or more. Anyways, It seems to (all of a sudden) have about half power, like the distributor has blown up. Half throttle is about all I get and then it sputters and misses etc. Back off the throttle a bit and it cuts back in.

Is this the fuel pump saying goodbye? Nothing has happened out of the ordinary to it, it just started?

From what I hear the fuel pump (electric) is a P I T A ... to replace.

[Trueser]

Most likely the fuel pump. High failure.

[mike o]

Most likely the fuel pump. High failure. ...especially n*pa

[VetteLT193]

In tank fuel pump. It's not just a PITA, it's a total PITA.:bonk:

[Conquistador_del_mar]

I have an old '92 Chevy 1500 P/U. It is the 350 Fuel Injection thingy. Anyways, the "electric pump" has carried on making noise for a LOOONNNGG time now. When the key is turned off it (the fuel pump) would run for another 10-15 seconds or more. Anyways, It seems to (all of a sudden) have about half power, like the distributor has blown up. Half throttle is about all I get and then it sputters and misses etc. Back off the throttle a bit and it cuts back in.

Is this the fuel pump saying goodbye? Nothing has happened out of the ordinary to it, it just started?

From what I hear the fuel pump (electric) is a P I T A ... to replace.

Lenny,
I had a 1991 1500 Silverado with the throttle body carburetor setup - two injectors in the "carburetor". I just gave it to my fiance's brother last year with 285,000 miles on it. Since I had it for about 14 years, I had done about every repair imaginable. From your symptoms, first thing is to replace the fuel filter which is located on the chassis under the driver - it is an easy replacement and screws into the fittings on the fuel line. The next thing to check is the fuel coming out of the injectors which you can see with the air filter off and engine running - maybe one of the injectors is clogged, broken, or wiring bad to it. If it idles well and the injectors seem fine, my next guess would be a clogged catalytic convertor where it has broken down inside and clogged much of the exit. From your symptoms described, these would be the first things to check. My experience is that if the fuel pump is running (you can hear it in the tank), that is probably not the problem. By the way, replacing the fuel pump is actually about a 2+ hour job - the tank has to be dropped. I know some guys who take off their beds for access, but I did the tank drop replacement in an afternoon. The worst part is getting crap in your eyes from the debris on the fittings as you lossen them to take off the fuel fill, etc. I hope this helps. Bill

[CJmike]

Check fuel pressure. It could be the pump.
If not the pump check the Throttle position sensor.
If this is bad it can make it run rough, spit, sputter, and make it act like a bad carb.

[Conquistador_del_mar]

Check fuel pressure. It could be the pump.
If not the pump check the Throttle position sensor.
If this is bad it can make it run rough, spit, sputter, and make it act like a bad carb.

Yep, I should have mentioned the TPS since I had to replace mine twice - it is a relatively cheap part, too. Bill

[BUIZILLA]

fuel pressure at the tap port should be 13-15#

[DonziJon]

AND: Last but Not Least: If you are using E-10 Ethonal and you don't use the truck for weeks at a time.........:bonk::bonk: Fuel seperation and all other kinds of hassles. Time for an Adult Beverage. John

[MOP]

My 97 was doing similar stuff, I changed the filter on the advice of Jim. It has been fine ever since, that is where I would start. If you are not sure when it was last changed then it is time!

[Lenny]

My 97 was doing similar stuff, I changed the filter on the advice of Jim. It has been fine ever since, that is where I would start. If you are not sure when it was last changed then it is time!

The year it was made... :)

[glashole]

Lenny

get a new truck

even one off a lease can be had on this side for like 12-15000

[smbarcelow]

My first thought was clogged cat. Looks like you're getting good advice above.

[zelatore]

Lenny

get a new truck

even one off a lease can be had on this side for like 12-15000

Not that this specific example helps you, but while visiting family in southern Indiana over Thanksgiving Michele reported that the local Ford dealer had new '08 F150's at $9999.

Even assuming it's a stripper, that's pretty darn cheap. Here on the west coast I've seen new '08 F150s with a couple options for $12K advertised price.

[Donziweasel]

The year it was made...

Cheapest place to start and probably your problem, although they tend to "unclog" a little when sitting. Does it do it all the time or just after it has been running a while? Also, was your last tune up about the same time the filter was replaced?:bonk: Did a freind of mines this summer. Had over 100,000 miles. No electrodes left on the plugs!


get a new truck

I like Lenny's truck. She's got life left in her Lenny........:wink:
.

[MOP]

The year it was made... :)

Hee Hee Like I said start there, for about $10 it may just get all better!

[Donziweasel]

I HATE the in tank pumps and filters. It is the most retarded thing I have ever seen. What ever happened to the frame rail mount ones? Oh well....


Lenny, when you turn on your key you will hear you pump run. Sounds like high pitched whine. Shouldn't run when you turn the truck off though.......

[Conquistador_del_mar]

I HATE the in tank pumps and filters. It is the most retarded thing I have ever seen. What ever happened to the frame rail mount ones? Oh well....


Lenny, when you turn on your key you will hear you pump run. Sounds like high pitched whine. Shouldn't run when you turn the truck off though.......

Yep, I have heard though that the fuel pump in the tank counts on the fuel to help keep it cooler - possibly why they are mounted there?
I agree that the fuel pump should not run after the ignition is turned off. It could possibly be that the fuel pump relay under the black plastic cover on the right upper side of the firewall is sticking closed for a while after shut down, but that would be a new one on me. Bill

[Lenny]

'08 F150s with a couple options for $12K advertised price.

Like I would spend $12K on a vehicle. I just bought an '01 Ford E-350 (white) work truck (351 or something) panel for $800 that needs brakes and front tires. Has a new rear in it too.

Don, $12K in this guys pocket would be a blue motor for a boat, NOT a vehicle... :D

[Lenny]

Yep, I have heard though that the fuel pump in the tank counts on the fuel to help keep it cooler - possibly why they are mounted there?
I agree that the fuel pump should not run after the ignition is turned off. It could possibly be that the fuel pump relay under the black plastic cover on the right upper side of the firewall is sticking closed for a while after shut down, but that would be a new one on me. Bill

Fuel pump runs after shut off. Has for years. I am goingto put on a new filter and get new dual exhaust put on as a start. We have no "pollution/ air-care Laws here so I can do whatever. Bye bye Catalytic converter :D

[Conquistador_del_mar]

Fuel pump runs after shut off. Has for years. I am goingto put on a new filter and get new dual exhaust put on as a start. We have no "pollution/ air-care Laws here so I can do whatever. Bye bye Catalytic converter :D

Lenny,
You will see that there is a single cat fed by both exhausts coming to the cat. If you want to go true dual all the way, it will be more work - most guys Y out from the cat or in this case you can y out from the connection at the front of the cat. The exhaust pipes back to the cat from the manifolds are stainless and regular steel back from the cat. Bill

[zelatore]

Like I would spend $12K on a vehicle. I just bought an '01 Ford E-350 (white) work truck (351 or something) panel for $800 that needs brakes and front tires. Has a new rear in it too.

Don, $12K in this guys pocket would be a blue motor for a boat, NOT a vehicle... :D

Well, at least you have your priorities straight.

I bought an $800 van once. Old Dodge 3/4 ton. Drove it across the country when I moved towing a trailer with my Alfa and motorcycle on it and the back stuffed full of all my belongings (mainly tools and spare Alfa parts). Crossing the rockies I was down to about 35 mph at WOT. Michele looked over and said 'what happens if we can't make it?'

Ah, good times...:bonk:

[DonziJon]

Back in 1965 I had a problem with the "In-Tank" fuel pump in my '63 XKE. The pump was under the floor in the trunk so wasn't to diffucult to remove. That pump was an engineering marvel and a joy to behold. It was a finely machined and exicuted "Turbine" design. It still actually worked ....somewhat..but was worn enough that it didn't provide enough pressure for the 3 SU carbs up front.

I was POOR back then and couldn't afford a new Jaguar pump so I put the old one back in the tank with a new gasket. I then mounted a New Bendix pump and seperate pressure regulator up front on the firewall. The new pump just drew fuel through the old pump and it worked fine until I sold the car. John

[mrfixxall]

I have an old '92 Chevy 1500 P/U. It is the 350 Fuel Injection thingy. Anyways, the "electric pump" has carried on making noise for a LOOONNNGG time now. When the key is turned off it (the fuel pump) would run for another 10-15 seconds or more. Anyways, It seems to (all of a sudden) have about half power, like the distributor has blown up. Half throttle is about all I get and then it sputters and misses etc. Back off the throttle a bit and it cuts back in.

Is this the fuel pump saying goodbye? Nothing has happened out of the ordinary to it, it just started?

From what I hear the fuel pump (electric) is a P I T A ... to replace.

Plug wires,,im a expert at gm trucks seems that i was a teck for them in the 90's before i opened my own shop..

You may want to take a look at the coil and cap and rotor as well..
Fuel pressure is a key factor but usually when your f-p goes bad it would be hard to start.

also ck your timing that older motor are known for timing chains.pull the bistrubution cover off the firewall on the passenger side,with the ignition off unplug the tan wire at the weather connector,start vehicle,timing should read "0" any higher and the engine will surge..

Loss of fuel pressure usually results in a backfire through the throttle body..

As for the exhaust!! leave it alone for now,i have done a bunch of mods on tbi trucks and all it does is make a bunch of noise and get worse fuel milage..that engine needs the back pressure and you will loose low end torque if you put any kind of open exhaust on it.if you decidt to put exhaust on it, ive had the best luck with walker quiet flo exhaust,single in with twin out muffler and twin tail pipes,leave the cross over pipe in tact..

[Lenny]

Loss of fuel pressure usually results in a backfire through the throttle body..


I got that. The truck is good for about half throttle in any gear. Any more than that and power drops in half of more. Back off the throttle a bit and it kicks in again... still, will only rev on an 8 to about half throttle. (It is an Automatic, R-700 or whatever they were called.)

I ran down a steep hill this afternoon, in 4th, then dropped it back into second to see if it would rev up and clean out on the "coast" aspect. No such deal, just backfiring (occasionally) until the revs were at about 50% and then it kicked in again...

( Did I ever tell anyone how MUCH I hate motors... ) :banghead:

I usually drive stuff till it is dump ready and buy another vehicle. BUT, "dump-ready" is waaaayyy out there folks :D

Put it this way. I have NOT changed the oil in my old work Van since I bought it in 2000. :eek: :eek: :eek: I just keep adding oil till she scatters... (chevy 350, probably won't happen)

The boats are another story. They get the Golden PLUS treatment and get everything they need, proactive or preventative, done... :)

[mrfixxall]

I got that. The truck is good for about half throttle in any gear. Any more than that and power drops in half of more. Back off the throttle a bit and it kicks in again... still, will only rev on an 8 to about half throttle. (It is an Automatic, R-700 or whatever they were called.)

I ran down a steep hill this afternoon, in 4th, then dropped it back into second to see if it would rev up and clean out on the "coast" aspect. No such deal, just backfiring (occasionally) until the revs were at about 50% and then it kicked in again...

( Did I ever tell anyone how MUCH I hate motors... ) :banghead:

I usually drive stuff till it is dump ready and buy another vehicle. BUT, "dump-ready" is waaaayyy out there folks :D

Put it this way. I have NOT changed the oil in my old work Van since I bought it in 2000. :eek: :eek: :eek: I just keep adding oil till she scatters... (chevy 350, probably won't happen)

The boats are another story. They get the Golden PLUS treatment and get everything they need, proactive or preventative, done... :)

Then go with the filter first like someome else said,if it still backfires through the throttle body thrn suspect the sparkplug gap being way out of range.
A big plug gap will also make a tbi backfire through it..
You may as well give it a complete tune from their including the coil which their known for also.

In the 437000 miles on my suburban 454 i have probably replaced 4 fuel pumps and 10 or so coils and a whole bunch of sparkplugs:wink::crossfing:

[Lenny]

$10.92 later, two wrenches and replaced the inline metal filter along the port frame rail.

Runs FABULOUSLY, has lots of power (short box 350 1/2 ton 2WD ) and I love it once again :D No cutting out, sputtering, nothing. Kicks down a gear or two and scoots.

Thanx all for pointing me in the right direction, and starting out the "cheap" way... 200,000 original miles :rolleyes: and still puuurrrfect.

:) Lenny

[DonziJon]

$10.92 later, two wrenches and replaced the inline metal filter along the port frame rail.

Runs FABULOUSLY, has lots of power (short box 350 1/2 ton 2WD ) and I love it once again :D No cutting out, sputtering, nothing. Kicks down a gear or two and scoots.

Thanx all for pointing me in the right direction, and starting out the "cheap" way... 200,000 original miles :rolleyes: and still puuurrrfect.

:) Lenny

I'm always a believer in SIMPLE. Good News. :nilly::nilly: John

[Conquistador_del_mar]

$10.92 later, two wrenches and replaced the inline metal filter along the port frame rail.

Runs FABULOUSLY, has lots of power (short box 350 1/2 ton 2WD ) and I love it once again :D No cutting out, sputtering, nothing. Kicks down a gear or two and scoots.

Thanx all for pointing me in the right direction, and starting out the "cheap" way... 200,000 original miles :rolleyes: and still puuurrrfect.

:) Lenny

Lenny,
Glad to hear it. Yep, the fuel filter is the first thing to replace with the symptoms you had. I got a kick out of your calling it the port frame rail - lol. Bill