Buzz, hatch time on the Bench.What do you want?

[Lenny]

Raised area for flame arrestor? Raised area for risers? Scoop of some sort? Allow for an increased "X" dimension? Let me know. The glasswork will be done when you read this. I can add anything to the top for you. It is currently exactly flush with the deck (when done) 3/8" cross directional "rubber ply", 3/4" relieved MDF, and another 3/8" cross directional "rubber ply". In the middle of this sandwich is 2 layers of 1 1/2 oz CSM with a 3 mil CoreMat in the middle of the 3/8"-3/4" lay-up and then again on the other side between the other 2 layers. This will be the tool for the mold. I will glass/fill/sand/spray/finish the top when I know what I am doing.

As a side note, the flame arrestor on my small block on my "X-18" is about 5/8" from hitting the hatch at the transom-most point of the unit. (I put putty on top of the flame arrestor with wax paper on top and bottom and closed the hatch) The Stainless Marine risers have 1 1/4" at their highest point to the hatch. This is taking into account the original 1/2" Balsa coring on the hatch. :D

Let me know...or not ;)

[gcarter]

Lenny;
What is rubber ply?
And you would only use it for a plug?

[Lenny]

Lenny;
What is rubber ply?
And you would only use it for a plug?

George, rubberply is 3/8" directional plywood (Maranti actually) that can be purchased with the grain along the 8' direction or the 4'. It will stay perfectly flat in the opposite direction BUT bend as tight as a 2" radius :eek:

It is perfect for mocking up arc'd parts. About $40 a sheet. I used it as the top and bottom of the sandwich in this case with the relieved 3/4 MDF as the center core. The reason being is I wanted to arrive at 1 1/2" total thickness along the sides. When the part comes out of the eventual mold, and trimmed, it needs to remain about 1 1/4" high so that when it sits in the trough it is flush with the deck. I use stuff "like" this http://www.cygintl.com/plywood.html

[BUIZILLA]

hatch to match deck arch.....

we'll worry about a scoop later.. :wink:

[Lenny]

Jim, I am having this "vision" :rolleyes: of a 12" stripe, fore and aft of carbon fiber with a 1/4" pinstripe down each side ... :nilly:

[BUIZILLA]

Jim, I am having this "vision" :rolleyes: of a 12" stripe, fore and aft of carbon fiber with a 1/4" pinstripe down each side ... :nilly: go back to sleep... :pimp:

[Donziweasel]

I hear Lenny doesn't sleep.:)

[Lenny]

So, here it is in rough form. Perfect arc, you could dance on it. It is 2" high to become the tool for the mold and when all is said and done it will make parts that get trimmed to 1 1/4".

[Lenny]

Next, on to trimming the perimeter with a patterning bit in the router.

[Lenny]

Then a quick sand and a radius on the outside perimeter that MATCHES the engine hatch area surround in an X-18. The original X's have a 1/8" radius on the deck area and then the hatch has over 3/8" radius (roundover). I think it looks goofy. Anyways, this is fixed now.

Then, a quick fill with Microballoons around the outside edge. Tomorrow I will sand this and then put 3 layers of 1 OZ CSM on the top and edges of the whole package. Then it is time for some more balloons, a quick sand, then a two part primer/paint job c/w a 12" stripe in it centered perfectly. I can then wax it and spray a two colour Tooling gelcote onto it, build it up, support it, and VOILA !!! ,a working mold for hatches for these things.

These are 6" longer than stock X-18 variety and make for more "fun" when working in there supposedly. :rolleyes:

Poodle, you still need an SS forward hatch? :D

[BUIZILLA]

cool stuff

[Donziweasel]

Very cool.:cool: Lenny, wish I had seen your shop. Looks nice.:wink:

[chappy]

I can only wish to be able to do something like that. Serious craftsmanship right there.

[onesubdrvr]

I can only wish to be able to do something like that. Serious craftsmanship right there.


Hmmmm, me too,..... looks like I'll be spending LOTS of time on the phone with Lenny too once the 16 gets here lol

Wayne

[Lenny]

Hmmmm, me too,..... looks like I'll be spending LOTS of time on the phone with Lenny too once the 16 gets here lol

Wayne

Wayne, I have pondered your endeavour as well. I have about $400 into this hatch alone. Probably 12 hours of labour and I am half way financially and labour wise..

I have a MOUNTAIN of tools to do all this and 20 years of making Commercial Millwork for the masses. Panels saws, ALL the Fiberglass equipment, Gelcoater, pressure pots etc. I have made 3 complete X-18 decks to get to where I am now. You need three bays open to build, pop, modify and glass all this stuff together. A true Laser Transit as well. Dead level parts for reference.

I can not believe how much work has gone into this "thing". Started in April of 2003... :( Almost 6 years now... on and off... :rolleyes:

I KNOW what you are in for. :eek: The foredeck alone is good for about a month of labour and materials to match.

Jigs upon jigs upon jigs.

To give you an idea, here is the foredeck section and a brief description.

The cross supports (this pic) were centered and glued to the longitudinal 2"x 3/4" Red Oak suppport. Then they were trimmed about 1" inside of the inner deck line. In the middle of each space was a 5/8" x 1/2" deep hole for ready rod (5/8") Glued, on the centerline only was two 8' pieces, 38" wide of 3/8" rubber ply (8' plyability) and scribed to the outside of the deck (just inside of that actually) Then, I layyed up 2, 1-1/2" OZ CSM's on it, an 18 OZ Roven, a 3mil CoreMat, 2 more 1-1/2" CSM and a heavy wet out. The underside of the deck was brushed down with resin for good adhesion. I then (me and another) rasied the unattached deck and carried this layup and all the parts underneath the deck. Crawling inside the hull, under the foredeck it was raised up on 5/8" rod supports with large washers going down to a piece of Uni-Strut. TOTALLY secured along a centerline linear plane to the stringers. Then the deck was fastened to the hull with screws so pressure could be applied from underneath using wrenches against the nuts on the Uni-Strut and prevent it from lifting.

At this point, an "arc" was created, something I liked, leading into the raised cowling area. All the nuts were tightened (lengthened) to create a pleasing surface to the eye.

Note, once you cut up a hull, the foredeck collapses. You need to re-invent the arc, perfectly and even, side to side, HENCE, all this crap. Once dry, I filled in the 1/4-5/16" area with mat and stuff to come "close" to the original deck surface then filled it with microballons and faired it out.

This foredeck procedure took a LONG time.

In other words, PhotoShop was a lot easier 6 years ago than this was doing it...

I am probably into this "project" for $10K and a billion hours of labour.

:)

Wayne, I "spawned" the idea in 2001. In 2003 some parts came out. In 2008 (now) I am "close" :rolleyes: http://www.donzi.net/forums/showthread.php?t=23631&highlight=Bench+Seat

[onesubdrvr]

Well Lenny, thankfully for guys like us, it's a labor of love ;)

I can truly appreciate the work you do and have done, and can tell that it's going to take at least twice as long, and twice as much money as I have imagined (and I'm pessimistic). But, it's not always the destination, but the journey as well.

Also, I'm strongly considering a wooden deck like Mike Yobes, I'm a little short in all the woodworking tool department, but have some contacts, and some people pretty interested in the project. I have most of the tools to get the beginning and end work done; it's the time in the middle lol. Also, one thing that makes (maybe) a huge difference is I intend on one and only one, not to recreate (except in R/C size, anyone looking for a 4' remote control version of a 16? lol).

I look forward to any tutelage you provide ;), and thank you for not calling me crazy,...... yet ;)

Wayne

[Lenny]

From a while back Wayne.

http://www.donzi.net/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=19024&d=1141330579

http://www.donzi.net/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=19022&d=1141330579

[Lenny]

The name of the "boat" that is "supposed to go to Kentucky to play with the Cigs" :rolleyes: is "Black and Blue" ... The boat IS black, same as my LE, the other part you figure out... :D
I garuantee 80+ GPS.. You heard it here...

Giddy-up... :)

[BUIZILLA]

oh Len...

left hand steer too..

[boxy]

Lenny, the bench seat 18 sure has come along way from the Thursday night beer fueled Donzi Chat days ... :D

It looks great.

[Lenny]

Sanded the Microballons this morning around the perimeter, then 3 layers of 1 1/2OZ CSM.

( it was made 1/2" small all around through an inner scribe to allow for this build up. Should end up at 3/16 inside all around the perimeter when done)

This afternoon after it kicks I will fill it again with balloons and then Sunday long board it and fair it all out. Next week, 2 part primer and then paint. Next, wax and pop a mold off of it.

Jim this boat is going to be "LH" . For whatever reason I prefer sitting on the left and using my "strong" arm on the wheel, left on the stick(s) . ( It's a Volvo thing :D )

[BUIZILLA]

all American Roadsters are LHD...... :yes:

[Lenny]

OK, a "quick" fill, and trim,... now I will let it really kick.

Sand in the AM. :)

[Lenny]

80& will only play with the Cigs for the first 300 meters.. After that it will just be getting a bath..


Watch me Poodle :D ... I have a spare seat... Deneen will be there, but not with me...

I could use the ballast :D


...seriously... :yes:

[Lenny]

Final glass work and filling has been done. Had to add a 5/16" to the bottom radius to follow the area in the deck properly and to NOT LOCK the part in the mold. (Had to be a negative angle) Now it is time for the 2 part high build primer, and block it out. Next will be the paint to put the gloss finish on it and paint on the 12" stripe so that I can follow it in the mold for masking purposes.

This fits PERFECTLY inside the opening with 1/8" clearance (perfectly) around the opening and a perfect deck following arc.