I screwed-up my drive?

[fasttrucker]

Took my 22zx over to the car parking lot to winterize it.I didnt have enough clearence for the drive and it hit the ground.I kept lowering it and the drive sound did not change.So,I went back to look at the drive and saw what happened.I went and tried to raise it back up and nothing:confused: no sound,dead air!Did I blow the fuse?I looked and didnt find one blown.So the drive is locked up.I took -off for jackson,s marine to let them fix it.(as I want to finsh winterizing it this week).I looked today for my water ear-muff,s and I think I left them on the swim platform and they must have fallin off as I drove to jackson,s.I really feel like.....................:frown:

[zelatore]

There's an in-line fuse right at the pump. A little hard to see if you can't get your head right down there with it. That would be my first check.

[RedDog]

You can winterize it by just pouring the antifreeze in from the top - in the thermostat housing hoses and hoses to the exhaust manifolds.

Be sure to drain the water first by pulling block plugs, manifold plugs, fuel cooler if applicable, pull hoses from seawater pump, pull u-shaped hose to the circulation water pump. Reinstall all and pour in anti-freeze.

[SilverBack]

My ZX has a breaker panel on the bulkhead in front of the engine. Did you check that? It has the inline fuse right at the pump also. Plus it has a breaker under the steering wheel.

[fasttrucker]

My ZX has a breaker panel on the bulkhead in front of the engine. Did you check that? It has the inline fuse right at the pump also. Plus it has a breaker under the steering wheel.I checked the in line fuse and under the steering wheel the fuse panel is not labeled.So I checked them all.I also checked the panel in the under the rear seat compartment.Jackson,s said they would fix it this week,still waiting for them to call me.Ill post the results here.

[zelatore]

I can't believe you would have killed the pump by dragging the skeg - It's gotta be something simple like a fuse or switch.

[gcarter]

I agree w/Don.
I did the same thing on my first time out w/the Minx. That was my first experience w/an outdrive. It sure got everyone's attention.

But the pump worked fine afterwards.
Gotta be electrical.

[fasttrucker]

I need a new drive sender kit and gasket about $100.00 plus 3+1/2 hours labor.Est. is around $400.00.....Guess ill be more carefull next time when I lower the drive!

[zelatore]

3 1/2 hrs??

Any of you merc techs care to comment on that? Seems a bit much to me, but what do I know...I'm not a merc guy.

[VetteLT193]

3 1/2 hrs??
Any of you merc techs care to comment on that? Seems a bit much to me, but what do I know...I'm not a merc guy.

The senders themselves are exposed, one of the easiest things to get to, and only held on by 2 screws a piece.

I haven't changed one but I know they come pre-wired so it might take a bunch of time to get the wires fed through... I have to assume this is where all the time comes from. :bonk:

[Cuda]

The senders themselves are exposed, one of the easiest things to get to, and only held on by 2 screws a piece.
I haven't changed one but I know they come pre-wired so it might take a bunch of time to get the wires fed through... I have to assume this is where all the time comes from. :bonk:
I'd use the old wire to pull the new one's through.

I'm happy to hear it isn't a winterizing issue, although I have a sure cure for those kinds of issues. It's 87 degrees as I type this, :)

[fogducker III]

To do it properly the leg, upper and gimbal ring need to be removed as well as the shift linkage and bellows, some guys just push stuff out of the way and try and squeeze in there but it is easier, but takes longer to take it all apart. The wiring is connected INSIDE the boat and the new unit wiring has to be fed through the transom inside the gimbal housing and a two piece plastic sealing washer is screwed in place to hold the two sets of wiring in place and to keep the water out.

Having said that, the easiest way by far is to remove the tilt limiter switch and the trim sending switch from the gimbal, cut the wires and solder and heat shrink the new connections.

The kits run about $100 and takes 15 minutes, I would get a second opinion.

[DonziJon]

I need a new drive sender kit and gasket about $100.00 plus 3+1/2 hours labor.Est. is around $400.00.....Guess ill be more carefull next time when I lower the drive!

Drive sender Kit? What's that? Are you talking about the "Hockey Pucks".....one each side of the drive? The Port side is the up/down limit switch and the Starboard side is the sender for the dash mounted trim guage. Those switches are bullet proof. The wireing going from the hockey pucks in through the transom is the weak link and a PITA to rewire because the drive and bell housing may need to come off to make the job Easier.

The wireing likes to Rot Out when the boat is older. Mine rotted out in about 17 years after new. Water gets inside the insulation and turns the copper to junk.

I'm suspicious of the diagnosis. John

[joseph m. hahnl]

There are two methods on doing it. One is you loosen and remove wire retaining clamp and take the wires out through the transom. quote time is 3&1/2 hrs. The other method is you cut the wires install shrink tubing, solder the wire and heat the shrink tube to seal the connection. The quote time should be half of full replacement. The time is quoted from the standard Merc repair book that the dealer has. personally I would do it my self with the cut and shrink tube method and save my self the $300 bucks. The biggest challenge is screw removal if galvanic corrosion has set in to the stainless screws. they often break and require drilling and tapping.

[zelatore]

That's what I was looking for. I knew Merc must have a flat rate for that job, I just didn't know it would be 3.5 hrs.

I don't often deal with flat rate jobs (although my boss wishes I did) but I've found they don't often build a lot of extra time into those jobs, so I'm going to assume it's pretty fair if you do it the full way as described above.

That said, I'd probably use the short-cut if it was me.

[joseph m. hahnl]

I'd use the old wire to pull the new one's through.

I'm happy to hear it isn't a winterizing issue, although I have a sure cure for those kinds of issues. It's 87 degrees as I type this, :)

The problem is there is a tapered grommet that is clamped in with (2) 1/4 -20 screws. they hide up and under the gimble ring and also the bellows are in the way. Even if all the bellows are out you need a special wrench to get up in there. If your not doing a full refit it is not worth pulling the wires through.

[joseph m. hahnl]

Took my 22zx over to the car parking lot to winterize it.I didnt have enough clearence for the drive and it hit the ground.I kept lowering it and the drive sound did not change.So,I went back to look at the drive and saw what happened.I went and tried to raise it back up and nothing:confused: no sound,dead air!Did I blow the fuse?I looked and didnt find one blown.So the drive is locked up.I took -off for jackson,s marine to let them fix it.(as I want to finsh winterizing it this week).I looked today for my water ear-muff,s and I think I left them on the swim platform and they must have fallin off as I drove to jackson,s.I really feel like.....................:frown:

First off: If the trailer button is not working the trim limit switch will have no effect. you probably have a bad connection at the (up) solenoid or up side of the solenoid depending on weather you have one or two solenoids. Check to make sure the plug to it is not corroded. You should also check to see if power is getting there from the switch with a tester.

Remember this: When a mechanic does the wrong thing. They still charge you for it and then charge you again for fixing the right thing:shocking:
OH my bad: doesn't really cut it!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[gcarter]

The limit switch wires can always be bypassed very easily. At the pump end of the harness, the wires are terminated with male and female bullet connectors. Simply undo those connectors and plug the pump end of the harness into each other.
It will work fine if that's the problem, but there'll be no limit.

[DonziJon]

George is right. Here's how to do it.
...............................................

Could also be Rotten Wiring running from the Trim Limit Switch on the left side of the drive through the transom. In older boats..say mid-late eighties, water (particularly salt water) wicks up into the wire and actually rots the copper core in the wire running from the Limit Switch ("Hockey Puck") through the transom.

When this happens the trim circuit "Thinks" the drive is full up and will not lift the drive when you use the throttle trim switch. You may however be able to lift the drive with the trailer switch... this doesn't work well while under load however.

This wire is a PITA to replace. However, you can "Fool" the circuit. Go inside the engine room on the port side down near the oil filter (350) and unwrap the wiring harness to expose all the wires. Reach aft along the harness and find three single wire conductors bundled together. TWO of the conductors will run into a Single PLUG.. the other conductor will go into another plug. These 2+1 conductors will plug into TWO inline plugs that lead to the transom assembly where they exit the boat to the drive.

PULL (disconnect) the plugs from the two conductors going out through the transom ass'y. NOW: take the 2+1 conductors and "snip" the plugs OFF. You want to twist all three wires together. We are talking about the wiring Harness side. Forget the two wires exiting the transom..they are junk. (The TWO Harness wires together are BOTH Blue/White. The single wire is Purple/White.)

NOW try the trim switch on the throttle to see if the drive lifts up. If it does, your good to go.

WARNING: You have now fooled the circuit into thinking that the drive is NOT FULLY UP.... so NOW.. when you lift the drive with the trim switch on the throttle, the LIMIT Switch (hockey puck)
is inoperative and you MUST actually WATCH the drive as you lift it.. OR you can Jam the drive up into the Gimbal Ring.

This whole thing is a little inconvenient to live with but you can learn. I have been using this for over three years without a problem. Just keep an eye on the drive when you want to lift it up FULLY for trailering. None of this affects the trim GUAGE on the dash. It will still work normally. It's just not as accurate as your eyeball. John

PS: Goody: Copy and Paste Works Now. :yes:

[fasttrucker]

I was speaking to my meck. and he said that I should bring the boat to him to bypass it.Jacksons has it all torn down and inside their shop waiting for monday.I hope this gets fixed soon I want to finsh winterizing my donzi.

[Cuda]

The problem is there is a tapered grommet that is clamped in with (2) 1/4 -20 screws. they hide up and under the gimble ring and also the bellows are in the way. Even if all the bellows are out you need a special wrench to get up in there. If your not doing a full refit it is not worth pulling the wires through.
I made the special tool you need to pull an Alpha (throttle cable)

If I can't fix it, it ain't broke! :)

[joseph m. hahnl]

If I can't fix it, it ain't broke! :)

I Like your attitude:wink:

[Bryan Tuvell 33ZX]

Damn Truck, sorry for the bad luck... It is in their garage and won't freeze, weather is still mild even with a few flurries, you will be fix'd soon (hopefully) and then you can winterize.

As stated, you can always manually winterize.

Best of luck, Bryan

[Cuda]

I Like your attitude:wink:
You, being a machinest probably have the same attitude. :)

[fasttrucker]

Good news........I found my water ear-muffs, I left them on the right trim-tab and they didnt fall off.:angel:Boat is back from jacksons and the meck. said that the outdrive was leaking oil on the shop floor.They checked it and found a missing gasket on the drain plug.He said the oil looked old.I just had the upper gear case replaced and maybe 5 hours at the most use since then.So I dont know why he thinks that? Does anyone think that maybe water went into the outdrive?Will check that out next spring.I plan to winterize the boat this sunday.:crossfing:Oh well two weeks late.

[DonziJon]

Good news........I found my water ear-muffs, I left them on the right trim-tab and they didnt fall off.:angel:Boat is back from jacksons and the meck. said that the outdrive was leaking oil on the shop floor.They checked it and found a missing gasket on the drain plug.He said the oil looked old.I just had the upper gear case replaced and maybe 5 hours at the most use since then.So I dont know why he thinks that? Does anyone think that maybe water went into the outdrive?Will check that out next spring.I plan to winterize the boat this sunday.:crossfing:Oh well two weeks late.

So what was the solution to the Original Problem..? Drive Won't Lift. John

[VetteLT193]

Good news........I found my water ear-muffs, I left them on the right trim-tab and they didnt fall off.:angel:Boat is back from jacksons and the meck. said that the outdrive was leaking oil on the shop floor.They checked it and found a missing gasket on the drain plug.He said the oil looked old.I just had the upper gear case replaced and maybe 5 hours at the most use since then.So I dont know why he thinks that? Does anyone think that maybe water went into the outdrive?Will check that out next spring.I plan to winterize the boat this sunday.:crossfing:Oh well two weeks late.

If oil was coming out, water was going in. Not a huge deal if you catch it early, and it sounds like you did.

Those little bastard O rings are easy to lose. Merc sells them in packages of 5 (or so).

[fasttrucker]

I need a new drive sender kit and gasket about $100.00 plus 3+1/2 hours labor.Est. is around $400.00.....Guess ill be more carefull next time when I lower the drive!
donziJohn,.....I posted this about the drive earlyer.This cold weather really sucks,looks like monday will be warmer.So,Iam going to winterize the donzi before going to work.